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Old 10-15-2022, 11:12 AM
Ronnie73 Ronnie73 is offline
Ron Kornacki - Uncle Nacki
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Connecticut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pat R View Post
It sold for $637 there were 3 different bidders over $375 and 4 different bidders above $150. I have a feeling it will get returned and re-listed.
I didn't look to see where it finally ended at. That is amazing and sad at the same time. I wonder if bids were being placed because other bidders were bidding, and that made even more bids happen. Kinda like, everyone's bidding on it, so there must be something special about it, then others think the same thing, and before you know it, everyone is caught up in a bidding circle jerk.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wolf441 View Post
I was looking at it and would have taken a flyer on it at $100 or less, but even some legit scraps sell for less than $637.
True, but many legit scraps that are normal regular issue cards that were hand cut from a sheet, sell for slightly more than it's normal non scrap version of the card. I shouldn't even say the word sell, the correct word is listed. Because many of these cards are difficult to sell. Sometimes it might be nice to have a single example of one, but then it eventually doesn't have a place to fit in the collection. There are some exceptions, like a single card with all back variations. Then, I could see a hand cut Polar Bear or other back type fitting in. Or even just a collection of T206 odd ball and errors. But the reality is, if you can find that same front/back combo scrap hand cut card as a regular issued card, with the same front/back combo, the rarity and it being a near unique card, is just not there. Sadly, it's an oversized trimmed card. Some might think I'm being a bit harsh, but I'm actually being honest, so beginners don't mistake the word "scrap" as being a $1000 card automatically. Now, to be clear, there are some scrap cards that do bring $1000+ in auctions and private sales. But they include overprint errors, extreme registration issues, missing color passes (besides red), wrong color ink on back, one side printed upside down, extreme factory cut errors, front/back combos that shouldn't exist, blanket or cylinder impression errors (not wet sheet transfers), printmarks such as the Armpit 8 or the Blue Flame, cards with registration marks and with player names, cards with registration marks but no names (proofs), I'm sure that I'm missing a few others. I just wanted some of the newer collectors to know that the term "scrap" can cover a wide range of errors, tests, mistakes, and simply sheets that are just hand cut. The term scrap, over the years just became the simple word to use, to describe a card that shouldn't have gotten past quality control, or a card that left the print shop out the back door or possibly even pulled from the garbage. I don't think that last one happened much, because sheets that printed bad, were used multiple times to set up the print machine and get everything alligned. A full sheet ruined, was an expense, so the printer did their best to get the most use of the ruined sheet. Even using it on multiple print jobs. There's proof of the same sheet being used 8+ times on each side, before it was either put in a pile to recycle or set aside to burn for heat during winter months.
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Ron - Uncle Nacki

T206 Master Monster Front/Back Set Collector - www.youtube.com/unclenacki
T206 Basic "The Monster" Set 514/524
T206 Advanced "Master Monster" Front/Back Set ????/5258
COMPLETE T206 BACK SUBSETS
Old Mill Southern Leagues - Black Ink 48/48
Sweet Caporal 350-460 Factory 30 Full Color "No Prints" 28/28
NEAR COMPLETE T206 BACK SUBSETS
Polar Bear 245/250
Sovereign 460 50/52
Sweet Caporal 150 Factory 649 Overprint 31/34
Piedmont 350 "Elite 11" 9/11

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