Quote:
Originally Posted by wdwfan
Thanks everyone for all the comments. So far, I've enjoyed reading them all. I've found a couple of T205s I've got my eye one. But I'm really wanting to start with a nice T206 since it's "the Monster."
Some questions. Hey Leon, what is a type? Does that mean the various backgrounds?
That said, I love history. I love seeing the advertising in the background. That's what drew me to 1957 Topps and then some of the other sets around there (61, 62 mainly). I love looking at the ads in the background.
Thus far looking at some of the 205s and 206s, I'm seeing different backs. One is even french I believe (DeGalle or something of that nature). Is there 1 base and then the rest are parallels (like a base, then a refractor, prism refractor, etc for newer cards or a base and a green tint (from my 62 set))?
I like the idea of buying a few lower end commons of some various sets to get a nice feel for what they're supposed to look like, feel like, etc. I also like trying to take a look at Goudeys (SP), Play Ball, E-121, etc. I'm not a huge fan of the smaller or larger cards (i.e. 1955 Bowman or 1952 Bowman) as I like the traditional sized cards. But I really want to get some of the pre-war stuff to add value to my collection. Plus, I think it'll be easier for whomever is going to be responsible for moving my collection after I'm gone.
As for condition (I know some have asked that), I typically look for Ex with no creases, wrinkles, bends or indentations, no paper loss, pin holes or writing and 70-30 or better centering on my 1950s-60s sets. Will probably try to stick close to that in raw condition. I've been contemplating this afternoon about trying the graded rout. But I just can't pay someone (a grader) to tell me what my card is worth. So for now, I'll be going with raw. And I don't want to have a card just to fill a spot in the set or PC. I want to get something I can be proud of when I sit back and look at my collection.
One final question. Are here and Net54 the best places to try and make deals? I saw someone mention oldcardboard, so I want to check that out as well. But I no nothing about auction houses, how to get involved, if they're trustworthy (talking fake/altered cards). Are AHs a good way to pick up these types of cards? I just figured eBay and here are the 2 best options. But I might be wrong.
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A type is just an example from a set. Rather than build the whole set, you just get one card from the set. Many pre-war sets are impossible to complete as there are so few examples, so people are just happy to have a single card.
For T205/T206 and even many of the caramel sets, the different backs are representative a brand of products where the card could be found. Remember most prewar sets were not issued as a collectible itself like they are today, but rather as an advertisement for some other product. T205/T206 were different tobacco products, E92/E93/E96/E105/etc were different candy products, and so on.
I'm not sure where in TX you are located, but I would try to venture to one of the larger shows in the area. That way you should be able to see different cards, touch them, ask dealers questions, etc. You'll see what you like, what you don't. Do you want action, portraits, color, B&W, obscure, mainstraim, etc. I will say, EX condition in pre-war, especially pre-1930 can be considered high grade (with a few exceptions) and get pricey very quickly. You are not going to find many T205/T206 that would grade EX that have not been graded.
Also you will need to really reconsider your thought on the size of the cards. If the early Topps and Bowman sizes bother you, prewar will really bother you. Off the top of my head, I can't think of any pre-war sets that follow the standard post 1957 card size.
Where to buy cards really depends. Here is great. Ebay can be great. Many AH's will come highly recommended (REA, LOTG, HA, Sterling, H&S, Birmingham, etc) and a few will get less positive reviews (see the recent Crazy Uncle threads). In generally, most of the auction houses are pretty good and deals can be found, just remember to read and understand each AH's T&C before bidding so you understand the buyers premium, sales tax, shipping, etc. These all vary from AH to AH and can influence the final price you pay significantly. If you don't understand something, ask them, that's why they are there.
Best of luck, and just keep asking question!
DJ