Quote:
Originally Posted by David Atkatz
To be frank, Pickles, you've got a lot to learn. First, authenticity doesn't come with quality--the two are completely independent. And "what makes a signature authentic" is that it has actually been signed by the person in question. Nothing else.
That being said, your ball is authentic--it is in poor condition, but it is authentic.
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Thanks. I will always have a lot to learn, which is part of the reason I am here.
This is how I see the equation
(Authenticity)*(Quality) = Cost (* means multiplied by if one is not mathematically inclined)
To keep cost down, you give up ononeor the other.
With my budget, and wanting to own authentic, I knew I'd be sacrificing qualities.
So, as I do homework and find that sigs are consistent with players style, and there are 21 or so, you are left with either an authentic ball or a very well executed forgery of 20 names, but not Huggins, made on a low quality ball.
Ball is of thetime, ink is worn out, etc. And, thankfully, the Babe is the best sig of all, in the range of a 4 or so. Remaining "threat" is that it may bea good clubhouse sig. My limited experinece on seeing Babe's clubhouses suggest one may have ahigher probability of discriminating a C/H vs a forgery. At least, I can do that on eBay with a higher confiden e than say a suspect graded card. My logic ks not fool proof, but makes sense to me.
In a way, the more positive feedback I get from a forum of above average knowledge, with folks who have no dog in the fight, so to speak, on my buying the ball, goes a long way to increase confidence.
Thanks for the thoughts, and keep them coming.