Here's how I view the function of graders working for PSA, SGC or Beckett: their job is to find all the flaws a card has, and grade accordingly. That sounds terrible, but it's the truth. They are not there to hand out grades that make the owner happy. They are objectively looking at every single facet of a card, under high magnification and ideal lighting, to see the flaws we wouldn't see. And a smart collector can take that knowledge, and use it to their advantage.
Card collectors have been conditioned that certain numerical grades are attractive, and all the other numerical grades are somehow inferior. And in the grand scheme of things, I suppose that is true. But if you are a card collector, and not a card seller, you are looking for the nicest example of a card you can find for your collection. The card with the best eye appeal.
Say you are looking for a 1952 Topps Eddie Mathews. That's his rookie. It came in the set, and it was a high series card. Now, you might stumble across two cards, one a 7, and the other a 6. The 7, because of the factors I already mentioned, will be super expensive. The 6 will be, too, but comparatively, it will be much more affordable. And it might even look better than the 7. The 7 may have sharper corners and edges. It might lack any gum staining on the back. But when you look at the 6, the centering is much better. In fact, it's almost 50/50 left to right, and 55/45 top to bottom. The 6 also has stronger color, though that does not come into consideration as far as technical grades are concerned unless a card has lost coloring because of sun exposure (for example). The corners and edges are still quite nice, but they do show a touch of wear over time. And it has a very slight touch of gum stain on the back. So, there is some slight discoloring on the bottom of the card back where the gum came in contact with the cardboard. And what can these cards be had for?
According to SMR, the 7 is a $15,000 card, and the 6 a $6,500 card. Both of those values are low, I'm sure, but I use SMR as a starting point to get a general idea as to what kind of jumps I am looking at.
Would you rather spend $15,000 on a card with no gum stain on the back, and sharper edges and corners, or would you opt for the 6, which has better centering, stronger color, though ever so slightly inferior edges and corners, and a bit of discoloration on the bottom of the card back? Me, personally, I would take the 6 every time. Though the 7 might technically be the better card, the card with the more brilliant color, and better centering is going to catch my attention every time. And with the money I saved, I can put that towards another card. I could pick up a very nice 1934 Goudey Lou Gehrig for $8,500.
Always remember to buy the card, not the grade. And, do not automatically dismiss a card because it has a grade you feel is inadequate. A lot of time, you'd be surprised just how nice a 6 can be.
__________________
Building these sets: T206, 1953 Bowman Color, 1975 Topps.
Great transactions with: piedmont150, Cardboard Junkie, z28jd, t206blogcom, tinkertoeverstochance, trobba, Texxxx, marcdelpercio, t206hound, zachs, tolstoi, IronHorse 2130, AndyG09, BBT206, jtschantz, lug-nut, leaflover, Abravefan11, mpemulis, btcarfagno, BlueSky, and Frankbmd.
|