![]() |
Babe Ruth Autograph Question
Looking for some input on getting my Babe Ruth autograph authenticated/graded. I have the history behind it and it was passed down by family so no reason to believe its fake on my side.
I assume this would be most valuable as a PSA Cut? I have a history with PSA / Grading but not in sports world. I say Cut because the card was stuck in a scrap book and the tapae pulled off some of the card before it was given to me. Would I actually cut it myself? Any tips before doing so and sending in for grading? Thanks for input! EDIT: See JollyElm's repost of my picutres below! Thanks! |
Looks good.
DON'T CUT IT! |
Yes, looks good
|
As David said do not cut it. Why would you reduce the size of the item it is on? That would detract significantly. The whole postcard gives some perspective to the signature, otherwise it is just another clip.
|
2 Attachment(s)
|
Thank you for all the input! My only experience with PSA to date was grading trading cards. I have seen some PSA graded cuts but not a full size item like this?
Does PSA have slabs to fit something like this? How would I protect it? Thanks again. |
I'm no expert, but why would you get it graded? You know it's real. If you put in in an auction to sell it, the auction house would know it's real. An educated buyer would know it's real. Why pay PSA to tell you what you already know and ugly it up with some hideous holder?
|
Quote:
|
+2 A total waste of money:(:(:(:(:(:(:(
|
Quote:
But if you are looking to sell it and get max dollars for it than you may want to consider getting it graded. My peers are right the auction house would know it is real and many collectors would no it is real. BUT there is so much new money coming into the collection world and many are "investors" and not collectors. Those people would not bid on something ungraded since they are usually less knowledgeable and would tend to trust and bid on things that are graded vs non graded as a result you may not get as many bidders as you could from those not willing to bi on what they do not know |
So my goal is to sell it and get best return (buying a house and will go towards down payment). I assumed I would need to get authenticated beforehand but seems that may not be as necessary as I thought.
I only really know of ebay and PWCC (when they were on ebay) but thats only from non-sports trading cards side of things. Where would I start? Any idea of value range? |
If you send it to an auction house you will not have to get it authenticated
Golden, R&R and Leland's. To name a few. My opinion on what you will get for the autograph 1500-2000 |
Auctions are funny things. Sometimes you get way more than expected and sometimes way less. My thinking is that you should choose a price you would be satisfied with and put it up on the BST board. No fees and very possibly a lot quicker than sending to an auction house and having to wait until their next auction.
If you get what you want, what does it matter where you sell it? Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk |
Quote:
|
+2 a great idea:)
|
Quote:
|
Actually, Goldin will make you pay for the full authentication.
And yes, for the most part, a Ruth such as this hasn't been $1500-2000 for about 20 years. There have been a few exceptions, but that's ancient history at this point, so no need to go into detail. I too would put it in the $3500-4000 range. |
I have not owned a Ruth for more than twenty years ago. So I was right on the money.:D
|
Or auction it here on the BST...
|
If you try the BST (and if it fails to sell here), I'd contact Al Crisafulli at Love of the Game Auctions. You will be quite happy with their service, attention to detail, low fees and your price realized.
In addition, yours wouldn't be "competing" with dozens of other Ruth examples, as might be the case with Heritage, Lelands and Goldin. Best of luck with the sale and the house... can't imagine being a first-time home buyer in this current market. :eek: |
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:07 AM. |