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Ebay Make Offer Protocol - Help
Trying to figure something out. I noticed that "Make Offer" option has been added to auction listings. I'm asking you guys what exactly is the protocol for this. Is it expected that I offer less than the starting amount (assuming no bids yet of course)? ...or is it there to make my best offer above the starting bid, which would seem strange to me, as any bid I make on the auction would have the same effect, wouldn't it? Some input would be appreciated.
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I just make an offer of what I would actually pay no matter the starting price.
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Keep in mind you only get 3 offers before they lock you out of that particular item. Discovered this the hard way the other day when I was climbing the ladder on an overpriced item.
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Is it considered bad form to "make offer" lower than the starting price on an auction? Saw a few things that I wasn't interested in at the starting price but I had an amount I would spend in mind. Not looking to steal anything but I don't want to violate protocol or insult anyone.
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While possible, most sellers would hate you for doing it and many of them would block you from bidding on any other item they sell.
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If you like something but think it is way over priced, bid your max amount and see what happens? I've seen a lot of sellers not want to come down $5 bucks, which makes no sense to me, but I just move on. It sounds like you're worried about offending the seller? If for some odd reason the seller gets offended, ask yourself, is that really someone you want to deal with anyways? If its a "must have" and you think the price is fair doing comps then bid the ask if you're afraid of losing it. |
I assume most "Best Offers" on auctions are looking for a price above the starting bid, that would force them to consider ending the auction early.
Sort of the opposite of a BIN, with a "Best Offer". Would somebody consider it bad form? I don't know. I think it's kind of bad form to put "Best Offer", on an auction item to begin with..........but my etiquette, and somebody's else's etiquette, are often two very different things. Just assume, no matter what you do.............somebody, somewhere is going to consider it "bad form". :D That's not political correctness either, in case somebody wants to jump on that bandwagon.........that's just human nature. |
I offer what I want to pay and a seller can reject it or not. I’ve seen some come down 50% and others only budge a couple of dollars. If I run out of offers, I sent the seller an email to inquiry about what they are seeking. If I can pay that, I ask them to send me an offer. If I can’t I thank them for their time.
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Mostly alligned with this response
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If it is a "buy it now" listing with a best offer option - I would expect offers lower than the BIN. If it is an auction listing with a best offer option - as stated in the quoted response - the seller may be looking for a "make me an offer that I can't refuse to end the auction early and take your offer" which by definition would be higher than the then highest bid. It gives a buyer an opportunity to not have to compete with others for the item which may lead to he/she paying more than a good offer that ends the auction early. |
I listed a couple of things that way at one point, naturally expecting to get offers above my opening, if any. Wrong. Got some unbelievable low ball offers. Gave up and stopped listing that way.
Not sure what's worse, people who list common cards at many multiples of what they are worth or people who offer pennies on the dollar. |
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I've done this several times now...all have been well above the Starting price...just offered what my fair goal for what I wanted to pay and I am batting 100%, and some started counters that ended up well. One example is the 1963 Sandy Koufax in strong EX+ raw. I was struggling to find the right card. I kept getting just sniped on the auctions last second, all ending around $85 to 90, and I kept being the underbidder. So my goal was $85, and all the BINs that fit my goal card were well over that, so I was being patient as all auctions were so consistent...that I kept losing. Lol. So a really nice example opened at $55 auction starting point, and had OBO. I went right to $80 on my offer, he countered with $85...bam, goal met. I was stoked. Card was listed for maybe 20 minutes...:) Know what your card is selling for, be fair, and move on to another card if it doesn't work out. |
What is bad form is when the seller has an auto-reject on the listing, the bidder makes an offer substantially below the opening price, the offer is rejected, and the bidder then sends some lame-ass "what's the best you can do" email.
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But if sellers want to be in the biz, don't they need a thick enough skin for that sort of thing, and ought they ideally to have a bubbly enough personality to engage in the $$$ discussion---they are trying to coax other people to part with theirs after all. |
My response to "what's the best you can do?" is to block you.
Bidding against yourself is never a good idea. |
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When I'm set up at a show and somebody asks me "What's the best you can do on this?", I like to respond, "What's the most amount of money you will give me?". Sounds rude in text, but it's actually a pretty good ice breaker, if you can say it with a smile on your face. :D |
I made an offer below the starting bid on an item recently. It was accepted.
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Blocking buyers for low offers is foolish IMHO. Been buying/selling almost 40yrs now. Never been insulted by lowball offers. It's nothing more than a starting point. Politely countered or refused is good business. On many occasion the lowballer returns and pays full price. If no deal is made, at a minimum, the potential buyer understands the seller is an adult that understands proper business etiquette. |
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If a seller doesn't have the stones to put an item up for actual bidding in an open auction format and just let it go for what the market decides, then it is hard to see how they can reasonably complain about having to spend effort rejecting offers, responding to emails, and blocking bidders they deem a nuisance. |
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