Help with Best Way to Sell Complete Sets???
 

Help with Best Way to Sell Complete Sets???
I have some sets I am looking to possibly put up for sale soon.
Have 2 types…
1). Complete PSA sets…
2). Partial PSA and raw ungraded sets.

….Question is…what is the best way to sell to maximize $$$$??
I see a lot of “set breaks” (many are not even close to complete sets, but don’t see as many complete sets being sold. Is the return not worth selling as a complete set?
..As anyone who has completed sets especially in specific grades, you know the long amount of time it can take to get certain cards….and I mean not the “stars” but hard to get commons….(example on my PSA 9 1968 set…#441 Johnson…only 4 have been sold based on PSA auction records)

……Anyway, just looking for feedback, I understand the common thought is that there are thousands of people trying to build sets, so doing a “set break” would appeal to many people, where as not many people have the $$$ to buy a complete set, so obviously less buyers , less bidders.

Sets are Topps baseball ranging from 1961 to 1968, with one 1955.

Some highlights of sets….

Full PSA…
1968…..520… PSA 9’s…78.. PSA 8’s… raw average…8.85…rank based on PSA registry about #17 or so.

1962 …..93 card “green tint” variation set….33 PSA 9’s….60 PSA 8’s…average…8.40…Rank would be #1 (my calculation) (hard to figure rank because you have to look at the 1962 “super sets” to see “green tints” in PSA registry)

1966……375 PSA 8’s…30 PSA 9’s….rest PSA 7’s…average7.75….rank about #18

1955….PSA 5’s, 6’s and 7’s….Average 6.0

1962….350 PSA 8’s rest PSA 7’s…average 7.65 (if I put the variation set in, it would rank # 3 on PSA for ’62 Super Set)

1964….455 PSA 8’s….30 PSA 9’s….rest PSA 7’s….average 7.87…rank about #18

Partial sets…1961 to 1968 would be roughly about 250 to 300 PSA’s (7’s 8’s) rest would be ungraded..
(except for 1968 which is 523 PSA 8’s and rest ungraded)…not all are full completed sets.

Thanks for any info from those that have sold sets and those that provide info.
Joe Uhlarik
uhlhockey@aol.com

Wow some very impressive sets !
I would come up with a price and post them on this site first. You have nothing to lose. If someone offers you your price or close to it, the deal is done. No auction houses, no ebay, no commissions . Just have to be careful with receiving payment and shipping cards
Good luck in the sales ! Scott

time vs $$$
 

Bottom line - to get the most $$$ you are going to need to invest the most time. Any 1 of 1 highest graded cards definitely should be auctioned (Be it ebay or private house) (If the balance are to be sold as sets - these cards could be replaced with lesser grade).
Your most time efficient (will not be maximizing your $$$ - unless possibly you calculate in the value of your time) method is to find a dealer or collector willing to buy the set(s) outright - it will be at some % of retail. A higher demand set should get you a higher % of retail. You could as Scott suggested try listing on the BST for starters. No commissions on either side here.
Another option is consigning to an auction house - seems like the grades of your set might warrant them offering them as a set or individual option - netting you the best total. Downside to auctions is the buyers premium (most houses charge 20%) - While you should be able to negotiate a 0 consignment fee, any buyer is figuring in the 20% for the auction house when they bid.
The most time consuming but a likely way to maximize your $$$is to piece the sets out - sell via BST and Ebay individually cards that warrant it based on value and do small group lots of the rest.

Thanks
 

Thanks Quitcrab and HCV123 for the responses...
good info sent and appreciate it,
Joe

Set prices from past sales
 

Was just wondering before paying to join VCP, if they have past sales on complete sets......or is there any other means to locate what complete sets sold for.
Thanks,
Joe Uhlarik
uhlhockey@aol.com

When it comes to post WW vintage complete sets vs. breaking them up, the market doesn't pay as much attention to the true breakup value as it should (especially when it comes to how top-heavy the set is, and how popular those top cards are).

If something is loaded at the top with highly liquid huge cards ('54 or '55 Topps, for example), you're better off buying the complete set or breaking it up to sell it. The opposite is true of something like '61 or '62 topps, since naturally the abundance of commons and minors in those won't sell anywhere near the way that the top HOFers will.

You'd think that the market would mostly price this in, but as mentioned, it really doesn't. I've seen '55 Topps sets sell for around just 20-40% more than a similar grade '62, but the difference in the realistic value of the two is like night and day

Maybe cosign them to a big eBay auction house to max your money? Probstien or Pwcc......

I would definitely NOT go that route!
 

With the all the shit hitting the fan with them and the FBI investigation and class action lawsuit - I believe many buyers (myself included) will not touch them with a ten foot pole!

Well, I just took a bath selling some stuff on eBay myself. Should have sent them to COMC and sold them individually (fixed price for the lower stuff, eBay auction for the cards over $50 each).
But eBay lured me in with the $20 final value fee for any auction item no matter the sales price, and I jumped at it. Probably would have doubled my money selling individually.

Update on posting of "Help selling complete sets"
When I listed some of the sets I had, I also listed a rank of the the set which was based on PSA set registry info.
In regards to the 1962 "green tint variation" set I had, again I only had info from PSA.
A gentlemen has contacted me and indicated he has a PSA 9 average set, and thus would be higher than mine, so my apologizes if this person was offended.
Joe Uhlarik
uhlhockey@aol.com