Babe Ruth barn find. single-signed ball. 96 years in my family
 

Update! See my updated post below.

That's pretty cool. We see plenty of attic finds in this hobby, but barn finds are usually reserved for rare cars. I would send this into PSA if it were my ball. Since it seems you're not familiar with the process I would check out their website, then call to have them walk you through the process. As for selling the ball I'd wait until it's authenticated then either list for sale here or send to an auction house like heritage.

Wow! A++++
 

Awesome! Welcome to the boards! Is your grandfather pictured in one of the photos you provided? That would be incredible provenance!

My advice:

Go to this link:
https://www.psacard.com/services/aut...uthentication/

Follow the 4 steps listed and send the baseball via insured mail or Fedex to PSA/DNA. This will be the best service to maximize your investment. By investment I mean your time to research PSA/DNA and the time to get it sent to them and of course the cost of authentication.

I personally would not have it slabbed in a PSA/DNA ball cube. You can do that yourself for less than $5 (ball cube).

Your total cost might be under $400 with shipping to and from and authentication but you could spend more if you are impatient and want it back quicker.

Beautiful item BTW! Thanks for sharing!

Peace, Mike

PS Babe Ruth fee is $300 from PSA/DNA to have them look at it. If its real then its $300, if they consider it "not authentic", its also $300! My hunch is that your $300 will be well spent! :) You will also have to pay the premium item fee of $25 since I assume you will declare its value more than $1000. They will ask you if you want a Full letter upgrade for $10 but just ignore that because your authentication fee is so high, they will provide a Full Letter if they determine it authentic. Good luck and please share the results when you get this museum piece back!

Thanks
 

I had checked out PSA in advance of this post, but wanted to find out if there were additional services that should be considered. I assume PSA is the gold standard?
In addition to the authentication services, should I have the ball and signature graded? Is that necessary, or advisable, for maximizing auction outcome?

Rough ballpark range of value?

Cool.....
 

PSA is your best route. There are others but if you want to maximize your return......

Do not grade the Auto or the Ball. Auto is faded as shown and will grade low. The ball is not an Official ball and should not be graded as it shows its age. No need for grades here.

Just get this beauty authenticated as is.

Good luck!

Mike

Agreed; Most of the Babe in his name is faded, so the auto should not be graded.

Its deff his signature, but only question is if its a replica or not. I dont collect sigs at all, but looking at the ink it would appear to be real. You should post this autograph section of this forum, im sure there are experts there who can better help you. Good luck

That looks like 1924 to me, which would make more sense because I thought he didn't use the quotes in the 30's.

Ken

This ball was signed on October 25th, 1934

I can tell you that the ball was definitely not signed in 1934. Was signed much earlier...

Also, the ball is 100% legit/genuine. If I had to give you a ballpark value of what it's worth, I'd say $3000-$5000, and most likely toward the lower end of that. Paying $400 for someone else to tell you "it's authentic" really eats into your profits.....

With respect to profits his cost basis is 0 out of the chute. Maybe there is a service that is less and will net the same value in auction? I would probably put a few services in the top echelon of resale value not just PSA. Then too I don't follow autographs except what is posted on the board so could be incorrect in that thinking.

If you are wanting to sell it, you should contact an auction house like Robert Edward Auctions or Heritage Auctions. They will get it authenticated for you at a much lower rate than PSA charges the public and sell it for you in their next auction.

Sure looks like the ball is dated "1924" not '34--especially considering the use of quotes around his first name. The Babe was in the Bay Area in October 1924, playing exhibition games and making personal appearances. That's likely the origin. He signed thousands of baseballs on trips like this.

Here's some newspaper coverage from an appearance in San Francisco and a preview of his visit to Oakland--and below that an ad from the SF Examiner with an offer you can't refuse. "Hey Fellers!"

https://i.postimg.cc/kMZRr4hZ/The-Sa...-26-1924-2.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/T1Z6tB07/The-Sa...-26-1924-1.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/52yBBGTd/The-Sa...ct-26-1924.jpg

I can see 1934 not 1924. The top of the '3' is visible. Part of it is missing, but still a 3.

Look at the “2” in “25”’above it. They are both the same, just a little longer tail on the bottom “2”, to my eye.

I can see 1934 not 1924. The top of the '3' is visible. Part of it is missing, but still a 3.

It is undeniably, and with 100% certainty, that it is a "2" and not a "3". Thus the year is (without question) 1924. The signature in question matches up perfectly with a 1924 time frame signature. His 1934 signature, while similar, looks nothing like this exemplar.

I think you're low. Likely $4,000-6,000. It's a single owner, dated ball with a story and a bit of provenance. Not in the best shape, but clear enough to make out the signature.

If you're thinking about selling, I would ask the auction house to pay for the authentication fees.

I agree with this. Ruth makes his 2's look like 3's some times. Example.

Also, look how he writes "Oct. 25" Had there been a 35th day in October, you might believe that "2" was a "3."

Very neat. It's definitely "1924", not only because that's what's written as the date :-) (that's Ruth's style of "2") but because it's a 1920's style of his signature. They were much more "pancaked" at that stage of his career (note the flatter large loop of the "R", (though it's not just the R that's "pancaked" at that era, the whole signature is just more squished vertically compared to later on). Very nice, authentic, hobby fresh Ruth, congrats :)

I think you're low. Likely $4,000-6,000

I'd be very, very surprised if it went that high. Look at recent sales. And the one above is missing almost the entire first name. Don't get me wrong, I hope the balls brings $10,000 but a more realistic number is $3000-ish...

I agree.

Good news!
 

I want to send my deepest thanks to all of you that have provided input on this baseball. Your research, and guidance have really helped me.

Special thanks to Mike, Ken, Brendan, Rich (great research on the west coast barnstorming tour!), and Chris.

This community inspired me to get the ball authenticated earlier this morning at a PSA collector event in California.

I want to share good news. Psa's top Ruth authenticator, with 30 years under his belt, says the following:
1. The ball is a real league ball.
2. The babe Ruth signature is authentic.
3. It was signed on October 25th, 1924 in San Francisco, CA
4. it is his expert opinion that this was a game-used baseball that was signed by Ruth after hitting it out of the park. Of course, there is no way to verify this. Nice story though.

I plan on selling the baseball. Several of you have suggested that I use a top tier auction house, and a person has also suggested selling this on eBay. looking to maximize my net, so I want to keep the fees as low as possible while getting to the right audience. Open to other guidance here.

Warmest regards.

Congrats. That's awesome. Good luck with the sale.

Lowest fees for this item would probably be through PWCC on eBay. And it would realize close to what a catalog auction would realize, without the 20% "buyers" premium.

I would not use PWCC for this. They get lots of card eyeballs, but autograph collectors don't really follow them.

Honesty, I wouldn't use any auction house for this.

My advice - once you've got the authentication from PSA, you should set a number you'd be happy with and try to sell it here on the board. That's a ZERO cost to you proposition.

I think the estimated values people have given you are actually spot on, an auction house can't get you any better than that and not all of them are going to offer you a zero consignors fee. Figure the auction house has to get AT LEAST 10% more out of it than you can, but once you have the sticker and letter from PSA, you've got everything you need.

Why not
 

I agree 100% with the last post. What does it hurt to try and sell here first at 0 cost and quickest turn around time? If you don't get your #, then you can try another avenue. I'm sure many members here would love a chance at this ball given the provenance.
Good luck and congratulations!