Trying to decide a Set Build! Help :)
 

Folks,


I actually typically collect GU vintage items, but i always get the itch to slowly build a nice fully graded set. Ive narrowed it down to a few, and would love your guys input!

I based these choices on the following criteria:

1. I loved the look
2. I liked the content, Players, era...etc
3. I believe the value will increase or at minimum retain. No matter what set i choose i dont expect to finish in a year..would be multiyears


Here we go:

1. 1933 Goudey PSA graded set ( Mostly graded between PSA2-6..would go after low grade LAJOIE as well)

2. 1911 T3 PSA GRADED SET. Low Grade. (PSA1-3..unless good deals on 4-5)

3. 1965 TOPPS PSA 9+ Fully Graded Set. Some GM 10s perhaps depending on price


Appreciate it!!!

- Justin

Make a run at the T3's, beautiful design and can be found on the cheap outside of the big dogs.

Second vote on the T3's. You can't go wrong here on the prettiest set ever made.

I like the t3 idea as well. However, due to their large size many of the 1s are pretty rough. If you can go psa 2-3 I think you will be a lot happier. Another benefit to this set is that I think prices are down compared to what has happened to many other issues, so now would be a good time to start.

T3. Personally I'd just do a hof set but either way it's a great set

I am going to hop on the T3 bandwagon as its aesthetically my personal favorite.

Second choice is 1988 Donruss.

I guess T9 doesn't stand a fighting chance on this thread.

Really great choices. I think either 33 Goudey or T3 are great choices. Don't see too many T3 sets.

T3's are beautiful, but can get pricey (especially if you want a nice Cobb). Some 50's sets are nice too and relatively affordable, for example 1953, '54 and '55 Topps. 41 Play Balls and 34 Goudeys are awesome too!

Good Luck with whatever set you choose!

~Owen:)

Buy a few cards from each set and after you have had them a while decide what you like best. Then sell/trade the cards you don't want to get more of the cards you like. This is what I have been doing lately and it seems to work good for me.

T3

I collected them back in the mid-1980s through 1991. Then when I built my house and was on a tight budget, I had a choice: Keep my collection or have really nice fireplaces on two levels in the house. Since I live where it gets quite cold in winter, I decided the fireplaces were needed more than the cardboard. But, I loved those cards.

I had about 70 of them, ungraded but I suppose they were mostly in the 2-3 range. No pinholes but rounding on the corners. It's an absolutely beautiful set - images you see online don't give them justice.

Here's what I recommend:

1. Read "The Glory of Their Times" by Larry Ritter. Best book on baseball ever written. There are posts here about Larry and this book.

2. When you see a T3 become available, go to http://www.retrosheet.org and check out the player. In many cases, retrosheet provides an interesting biography on these guys. It's fascinating, and will give you greater appreciation for your cards, the players depicted on them, and that time in baseball's history.

3. When you see a Rhoads available, buy it. From my collecting days I can assure you, it is tough.

If you go the 1965 route, much of your investment will be in grading service fees (598 of them.) If you go with T3s, that overhead will be much less, and you'll have the pleasure of holding cards that are over 100 years old.

By the way, Brown was my favorite T3 card. Arguments can be made for lots of other cards (Speaker is very colorful for example, and Bridwell is classic) but I love the look of Three Finger Brown, standing on grass with that bright orange background (most Cubs in the set have orange background I noticed.)

Good luck, let us know what you decide and how your collection progresses.

Mark you mentioned your T3's had no pinholes. I've noticed quite a few do as I'm sure this was the most popular way to display them back in the day. I just purchased my first two cards both of which have pinholes. Do most T3 collectors consider pinholes taboo?

I did avoid pinholes, it was a personal thing with me. But mine all had rounding on the corners, a couple had pencil marks on the back, and my Elberfeld even had a red crayon mark in the middle of it.

I do think T3s without pinholes are harder to find for the reason you mentioned.

It's one of those things... if I collected a 1965 set I'd be fine with PSA 6 or 7. I wouldn't need 9s. When I collected T3s, I stayed away from pinholes and water damage but could accept bad corners, normal wear, and a few marks. If I resumed collecting them today, I might prefer pinholes with no pencil marks, I don't know.

It's totally up to you which quirks you choose to have. ;)

Of the sets listed, I would go with T3's without a second thought, however, I'm not sure I would go after a graded set. I would probably do a raw set, put them in 8x10 (or 7x9) top loaders and then put into a few binders for viewing. 100 of the over-sized graded holders is going to take up a lot of room and thus be difficult/cumbersome to display or view.

DJ

I also want to add that grading is a factor. If you have to get your raw cards graded, collecting T3s will have a significant added expense because they are so expensive to have slabbed.

yes I was going to mention that it costs $85 at PSA to grade T3's.

Goudey apologist, as well as a founding member of the Goudey Advisory Board (GAB)
 

T3 cards are beautiful, and I could easily understand why so many have mentioned to go after this set. But don't rule out the 1933 Goudeys. It has a fantastic selection of the stars and hall of famers of the early 1930's, multiple Ruth and Gehrig cards to satisfy the need for big names, and great artwork as well (on most of the cards). To me they feel more like baseball cards, instead of something that seems more meant for wall display (T3). It was intended to be collected by kids, which is more at the root of how we all entered the hobby. And beside the big names, the cards are currently at a decent low price level and are bound to more than retain their value.

Still, you can't go wrong with T3. I don't think anyone has ever called them ugly.

Brian

The T3 set is a great choice. I have a 1965 Topps set of all PSA 9s, and it was a lot of fun to put together. It took four years, but it cost a lot. I think the '65 is the best looking set of the decade, but you might want to settle for some lower grades if you go with it.

PS- I finished it in 2012, and I'm planning to put it up for auction soon.
I hope I didn't break a rule with that last statement.

Why graded?
 

I have both graded and ungraded sets in my collection, high end T 201 and Clementes. After selling my T206 (mostly graded), I found myself disenchanted with the Graded Card game. My 1965 set is ungraded, mid grade, and I find it is awful nice to be tactile with the cards I grew up with.

On the other hand, protecting older cards is important to me, and if I am going to spend a couple grand on a card I would like reasonable assurances I am getting what I am paying for.

Whatever you find youself doing, have fun!

I'm curious, roughly how much would it cost to put together a 1933 Goudey set in a PSA 3-4 condition?...not including the Lajoie.

im not sure, but ironically, all this effort on your guys part and i changed my mind!! (shocking)

My biggest issue is since i still dedicate money to vintage GU, im not sure i can stay committed to completing such costly sets. Ive lowered my expectations

1909 E95 low grade Graded
1932 US Caramel Low graded
1941 Play Ball low to mid grade

i will likely start numnerically, build the 1909, then move on... either way keep you posted!!!!!!!!!!

Of the choices, to me, it would be hands down T3. Good luck the quest is a lot, if not most, of the fun.

easy call - the T3 set - good luck