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-   -   Strategy for acquiring high grade commons when set building (http://www.net54baseball.com/showthread.php?t=189488)

goudey1933 06-15-2014 04:57 AM

Strategy for acquiring high grade commons when set building
 
When trying to build a higher grade set many of us have no problem buying graded HOF's,high numbers etc.How do you approach the commons?Do you buy the best ungraded card you can or do you "pony" up and buy a graded in better condition but much more expensive?
This question isn't meant as an advice thread .I realize buy the card no the holder etc.I was just wondering what each of you prefers.BTW...hopefully today I'll re-enter the hobby after a 3 year layoff while at that time selling all cards to finance non card purchase.My set of choice...1972 Topps.:D

Thanks,
Scott

ALR-bishop 06-15-2014 07:41 AM

Graded cards
 
With only a couple of exceptions I immediately free any graded cards I buy with my trusty bolt cutter, so I do not buy graded cards unless it is my best option for a card I want

savedfrommyspokes 06-15-2014 11:12 AM

Scott, for me the best strategy is to identify my goal for each set I am starting to build. The 72 set is my favorite set from the 70s and the first "challenging" set I ever completed. In the early 2000's my goal was to complete this set in the raw fashion. However, I ended up with a few of the stars graded as they were the best option(I did not free them as Al does). A few years after completing the mainly raw set, because of the graded stars I had, I decided on a new goal to finish the set in the graded format. It took me a few years to complete the set in the graded format and I enjoyed every minute of the challenge of building this set in that manner.

http://www.psacard.com/PSASETREGISTR...et.aspx?s=3092

For me establishing a goal as to how I wanted to finish the set was just as important as finishing the set. There is no wrong or right goal....just whatever you feel is right.

In the case of the 72 set, NM raw commons are fairly common/relatively easily found and can be had for 10-20% of the cost of a graded common. Your question would be is it worth spending 5 to 10x more per common in the graded format, or collecting the same quality of card raw (untombed)?

If I had it to do all over again, I would have stuck with my original goal of building the set raw and settling for a few of the key cards/stars graded.

goudey1933 06-15-2014 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by savedfrommyspokes (Post 1287867)
Scott, for me the best strategy is to identify my goal for each set I am starting to build. The 72 set is my favorite set from the 70s and the first "challenging" set I ever completed. In the early 2000's my goal was to complete this set in the raw fashion. However, I ended up with a few of the stars graded as they were the best option(I did not free them as Al does). A few years after completing the mainly raw set, because of the graded stars I had, I decided on a new goal to finish the set in the graded format. It took me a few years to complete the set in the graded format and I enjoyed every minute of the challenge of building this set in that manner.

http://www.psacard.com/PSASETREGISTR...et.aspx?s=3092

For me establishing a goal as to how I wanted to finish the set was just as important as finishing the set. There is no wrong or right goal....just whatever you feel is right.

In the case of the 72 set, NM raw commons are fairly common/relatively easily found and can be had for 10-20% of the cost of a graded common. Your question would be is it worth spending 5 to 10x more per common in the graded format, or collecting the same quality of card raw (untombed)?

If I had it to do all over again, I would have stuck with my original goal of building the set raw and settling for a few of the key cards/stars graded.

Thanks for the response.I believe this will be my method myself.For higher demand cards I don't mind paying xtra,,,plus if I choose to sell/trade it will make the process so much easier.As I've been pricing out commons graded in nrmt and above I feel if possible..buy raw.You hit the nail on the head as much as 10-20x the cost compaired to raw.I may get to a point where I'm forced to buy commons in this manner but for now...no.I may buy a few favorites from that era such as some of the "Mustache Gang" Oakland A's among a few others.Also some of the high numbers .
Thanks
Scott

SAllen2556 06-17-2014 06:05 AM

I love the '72 set, by far my favorite of the 70's, and have been working on it myself forever - like 30 years or so!! Not to rain on your parade, but if I had to do it all over again, this would be the absolute LAST set I would try to put together piece by piece.

In the long run, 787 total cards with those damn high numbers (if you're trying for mint condition) will cost so much that you're way better off buying the entire set somewhere and then maybe doing some upgrading. The "parts" of this set cost way, way more than the "whole". It's a huge set and for some reason the book value does not seem to take this into account. I think it's the #1 set for buying and reselling card by card. Good luck though!

I think the Clemente might be my favorite all-time card:
http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps83452482.jpg

Zach Wheat 06-20-2014 11:54 PM

High Grade Commons
 
Good question. I always try to buy commons in high condition bulk lots. I am not so much worried about trimmed cards or reprints, etc. but it is much easier to get good looking commons in bulk.

Then you end up with a bunch of cards to trade or sell on the N54 BST.

Z Wheat.

Griffins 06-21-2014 12:55 AM

I did exactly what Scott suggested- bought the '72 set complete, and then upgraded by buying vending lots. Too big a set to go one by one, the shipping alone will kill you doing it that way.

almostdone 06-21-2014 05:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Griffins (Post 1289783)
. Too big a set to go one by one, the shipping alone will kill you doing it that way.

Excellent point. Even if you average $1.50 per card for shipping, which seems low, you will shell out over a grand just to get to your house!:eek:
Drew


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