T206 collection for sale, what should I do? Photos added
So I am pretty sure I have a set including all but the big 5 AND I am pretty sure my Cobb green portrait is fake, Tolstoi back which doesn't exist, so 6 short.
Thinking of selling it, best advice? bb |
Make sure the other big ones are real. If it's a non-existent back that it is the give away you might want to get some second opinions on the other stars.
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Option 2: Have a reputable auction house look over the key cards. If they're confident these are real, the AH should be able to work with you to maximize hammer prices. Option 3: Post pictures here of the Cobbs, Mattys, WaJos, and Demmitt/O'Hara (St. Louis). I'm pretty sure you'll get opinions regarding authenticity, as well as offers to buy, in very short order. |
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Take them to the National in a few months.
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Thanks for all the input
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I'm a little concerned about the Wajo portrait.
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You should probably have someone that knows T206's take a look at them. Just looking at the pictures you posted the Cobb (bat on), Matty (white cap) Covaleski, Cobb (green portrait), Cy Young (glove shows) and Jonson (portrait) are not original T206's. |
Consign to a major auction house. Don’t break up and sell individually, total pain. Let the ah do the work for you.
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Depending on how quick you are looking to sell, I would list them as singles either here or on one of the main facebook groups. You would probably make the most and not have any fee's. The very low and damaged HOF cards, I wouldn't bother spending the extra money to grade them, since they are binder card condition, and will likely just get cracked out again. The major HOF cards and rarities you could grade or not grade. But I'd only grade if I thought the card would get a 2 or higher. |
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That green back Cobb is as fake as a fake could be
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Brian |
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Curious what you guys are seeing with the Cobb bat on makes you think it isn’t original? The others are pretty obvious, but I wouldn’t have picked out that bat on as a fake……that said I’m still learning about the set and am a novice at best. |
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I would break it with an auction house that would sell most of the cards individually.
That won't happen with the major auction houses but some of the legitimate smaller ones would be willing to break it. Obviously, they will most likely want to lot up the cards that have parts missing into a large lot but any complete cards that are authentic could be sold individually. With the unauthentic cards mentioned by others being some of the high dollar cards in the set, I don't think selling the group as a partial set makes sense from a value standpoint. There are too many very low grade cards based on your pictures if they represent the set overall. You should be able to get favorable seller fees of perhaps 0 with a smaller auction house because even in low grade, over 500 T206 cards have decent value. If you sell them on your own, I would grade the HOFERS that would grade 2 or above and probably the high dollar cards even if only 1 or authentic. Good luck with the near set. |
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All that said.....
Auction house is probably your best bet. Especially with how prices are going, invest in the grading of your blue chip cards to maximize your payout.
That said, if you want to know where some of your cards are going, while making a lot of friends here on the board, open it up to the group, at least you'll know they are staying "in the family." That said that said, I'm only 55 cards away from finishing off my T206 set and would be happy to send my list over..... HA!! |
You have reached a point where you NEED a black light. You can find several options on Amazon, and have it in hand in 2 or 3 days. They are inexpensive.
If you send the cards to an auction house, you'll always wonder about the green Cobb, the Johnson portrait, and a few others. If any of them fluoresce when illuminated with a black light, then you will see that yourself, rather than trust others. A black light will cost you between about $8 and $28... and the results aren't iffy... You can shine uv light on one of those sheets in a dark room (doesn't have to be total darkness), the real cards will look dull, the reprints will blaze with purple light. Get a black light. Green Cobb isn't right. It'll either fluoresce, bright purple, or if it doesn't then it's the result of skinning real cards and putting pieces together. To me, from the pics, at least the front will fluoresce, and probably the back, too. |
Thanks
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I see multiple fakes in there. I don't think you necessarily need a black light. You need to study the cards and know what you are buying. I've held thousands and never used a blacklight.
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But he hasn't, and he does need a black light because of that lack of experience.
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