About to start 67 Topps
 

I’m about to embark on the dreaded 67 Topps set build. To build a VG / EX set how much do you think I should expect to spend on high numbers alone? I knew this day would come …

Random thoughts...

Nice. I have built the 67s now 3 times, and recently my brother finished up. It's a FUN journey if your patient. I actually have a spread sheet that unfortunately is now 3 years old and outdated but I used my prior knowledge to set goals for each high number. I had a routine -

* Twice to three times a day...check BIN's Newly listed (you'd be surprised at how many times someone will list something undervalued, they won't last long as lots of people are watching high numbered 67s every day)

*Twice to three times a day check what auctions are ending (deals to be had SOMETIMES, and there is a random "set break" from regular folks)

*Keep tabs on all GM auctions (he undergrades and is well known for great cards...although most auctions end higher than goal amounts...sometimes...haha)

*Obviously kept tabs several times a day on the net54 BTS...although so are many others! haha

The last set I built, my current set, I was patient enough to not overpay on any cards...but I was patient and not in a hurry. First couple of sets I would cave and over pay on certain BIN's. The key is to know the tough ones...Brooks, Shannon, Clendenon, Wills, Bunning, etc...and all that goes out the window on Carew and Seaver. On those...buy graded. Way too many scams, soaks, overgraded on raw to be trusted. On my current set I ended up buying a 4 on Seaver, and a 5 on Carew...and freed them both (I don't care about resell) but now wish I would have kept them graded and bought reprints for the binder. In the past I have bought a few Carews that were overgraded on raw and got burnt.

Also, fyi...the semi highs aint cheap either. Most lots you will buy to fill the first couple of series will most likely will not included any cards after #458...and 458 through 533 carry an annoying premium as well. Mazeroski, McCarver, Marichal, Schoendienst...and others...add up. In the highs, I have noticed even the DP cards are being gouged...anyhow...even talking about the 67s make me want to build another one! :)

Cards to just spend money on...Brooks Robinson for sure. You will be hard pressed to find a deal. Find one you like. Buy it. So many are trimmed, etc...consider graded. Niekro RC...same. Last card...Tommy John...find one and buy it. Tough to get a deal. Red Sox team...yeah...good luck. Haha.

Good luck! PM me if you ever want an opinion...I miss building 66 and 67! I currently have two sets of each and look at them routinely...once built...you feel like you have epically done something and the appreciation is through the roof.


EDIT TO ADD - I build my 66s and 67s sets at EX to EX+...no creases, ink...sharp corners (lax on centering to a degree) for every series but the highs. Highs I would not go anything that would grade under a 4...still no creases ( I HATE creases!) but the corners can be a bit soft and again, lax on centering. I'd like to think all my 66 and 67 highs would grade 5s or 6s, but I'm sure I have several 4s and for sure a few that would end up 3s...but always looking to upgrade those. So my thoughts are definitely coming from a mid grade set collector...

If you send me your email address I will certainly send you my speadsheet. I have it organized by "level"...I broke them into 4 levels, level 1 being the toughest and SP's...Level 4 being the DP's and somewhat cheap...to the max price for each card that I wouldn't go over...a Mendoza line for a mid grade card that if I could find something cheaper I bought. As said earlier, it's 3 years old, but maybe it still has some value? It was my bible for sure...

Just finished my EX+ set this past summer. What surprised me was that many semi-hi commons were selling for more than some of the hi # DPs, and were much harder to find in decent shape - I could buy Doug Camilis all day long for $10-ish or less, but try to find a decent Gelnar/Spriggs Pirates rookies at a decent price? Ha!

God speed!

Thank you everyone for your advice and insight. I'm excited to get started.

Of course, it depends on what you consider to be VGEX, but I would say expect to pay $2200 for the low numbers and $2800 for the high numbers.

John's right about the semi-highs. When I get want lists, the same cards are always on them, and they are mostly the tough semi-highs. Do your homework on the market for those, Beckett and similar guides won't be very helpful.



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Chris---great set. Good luck. PM me your address and I will send you a few

You either forgot a couple decimals, or you're shopping at Deans!

N/A

N00000000…..runaway……very fast!!! …..:)

Love the set. I think 4600-5000…. Should do it for you
Scott

I'm only about 20% done about 2 years in, but I have gone after some of the tougher ones (Seaver, Carew, Mantle, Mays, Aaron, B. Robby...) first so as to not get discouraged later on. Good luck. Most of the high number SP's even lower grade are ridiculously expensive if you are looking at BIN's. I know you can occasionally find them for cheaper waiting out auctions, but so far my patience has not extended to that mindset. I intend to focus a lot harder on '67 in 2023. I got big time distracted about this time last year with an impulse buy of a nice '71 Topps set, LOL.

Ok…..just a little follow up from the runaway comment

I put together 2 complete 1967 sets last year in ex-exmint or better (mostly better :))…..I had A LOT of extras and started a third set…..crazy I am!!! I’m at 608/609 for the 3rd set…..so 2.99 sets of 1967 topps in one year. I’m a Seaver away from being done! I would definitely buy the key cards graded. The highs get stupid money but are easily available. Something that books for 20.00 always selling 60.00 range but the real fun is from 450-530’s and they offer some hard finds. Greg morris is my best friend!!!! IM NOT SECRETLY PUTTING A 4th SET Together……:)

3 67s in one year?! What? Why? Lol

Thanks for all the info and advice guys - I really appreciate it.

I already had the Seaver and Carew from my HOF rookie collection so that was a good head start. I’m working in the highs first - I’ve always been one to jump into the deep end. I bought a nice Brooks Robinson last night. This is going to be fun.

Congrats on the Brooks! I love that card...smart to get that one done quickly...:)

Very nice set; you'll enjoy it after the chase. But the chase if fun also.

I finished putting together an EXish set on May 8, 2017. Looking back at my list, I remember the Red Sox TC and Mike Shannon being particularly tough.

Good luck with the hunt and stay the course. It's a beautiful set.

I built that set with many, many duplicates from wax packs when I was 9 years old. Yes, that was a lot of packs! First set I ever put together, beginning with the first packs of cards I ever was allowed to buy. I do not have the complete set today, but I do have all the ones that were my favorites at that time. Favorites = all the "heavies". I guess building the set again today wouldn't be outside the realm of possibility based on that. I think the set is great looking, I love the green backs, and it is my favorite set from the 1960s. Excellent choice of a set to build, and best of luck with it!

Hi can anyone who has collected 1967s for a while comment on the backs fading?

So many that I see have the faded green backs ( to yellowish brown) around the outsides of the cards, yet some are strong green, thoughts on this...do people care or it part of just how the set is?

Best,
Ed

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Two types of stock were used I think-other years have this happening as well, 1966 is one I can think of off the top of my head, 1951 Red Backs have the same phenomenon. The inferior stocks are usually noticeably dingier.

Whew ok ty....I thought I was going to have to go through some extreme thinning of my set (where they had faded backs)
Best,
Ed

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In my experience you occasionally find some with backs that are more puke green than bright, but it's not generally a ton. The ones with the discrepancy still seem to have bold black print on the back. Honestly it doesn't bother me that much.