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Peter,
If you read that thread on CU (which has since been deleted), he did respond to the questions about the bumps. However, when he was asked about the shilling, he dummied up real quick and didn't say another word. Why would he choose to address some issues and not others? |
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I honestly think this is pretty easily handled by Rick. |
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He was then asked about the shilling and he didn't respond...and he had a couple of days to do it before that thread went poof. He did post in other threads in the meantime, so he had to have seen the questions. |
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hi guys, every major auction house , including memory lane, heritage , mile high , huggins and scott , etc.... opens their items for auction up for VIEWING.... during this VIEWING period both dealers and collectors review the inventory for sale and decide which items they wanna bid on... ( sometimes they bring this inventory to shows for people to review as well ) yes, these dealers and collectors look for cards/items that may bump or sets or lots that may have great break value for resale or items that may be undervalued or just items they wanna buy for their collections... probstein123 functions like a major auction in this fashion and we have a large pool of dealers who look at items to bid upon.... probstein123 is not aware of which items they like, nor which items they bid upon....we are busy posting , shipping , and handling close to 10,000 auctions monthly..... none of these dealers are probstein staff and they all conduct their bids apart from probstein123 knowledge....we don't micro-manage the process - just like the major auction houses.... people bid on items they like...probstein123 is managed by the guidelines set forth by ebay trust and safety and we don't bid on our own items.... if you are interested in setting up viewing of auctions with probstein123 like other dealers and collectors, please feel free to call me at 973 747 6304.... thanks rick |
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Well, that's not encouraging, is it? |
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So who exactly is pank21? Is that fair to ask?
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I think this is a pretty fair response on the issue he addressed. Not sure why he wouldn't also say that he won't do business anymore with a consignor who shilled his own item(s) in a Probstein auction. |
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Your question was answered in post #32 where I also apologized to Rick...but I guess you missed that too. pank21 = Joseph M Pankiewicz |
Honestly, this is not a big issue for me. If pank21 doesn't want to let a card go under a certain amount, Rick can accomplish the same result with a minimum bid or an undisclosed reserve, or letting pank21 put in a bid at that amount, and it makes no difference to me what route he takes to get there. Where shill bidding bothers me is where the auction house knows a max bid (not possible for an ebay seller) and tells the consignor so they can run up the max bidder.
Is everyone on here really so pure that they have NEVER bid on a card they consigned, or asked a friend to bid on a card they were auctioning, or put in a bid on a friend's auction when asked to? Somehow, I doubt it. Yeah, feel free to ridicule me for condoning FRAUD!! |
David- i did not see that portion of the thread, thanks.....
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And the response on the merits is? I missed that.
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And it does make a difference to me if he shills as opposed to having a minimum bid or reserve price. Maybe the auction house scenario you described is worse, but that doesn't mean this guy didn't cheat too. |
To me, it's like seeing a patient (the hobby) with a broken back and focusing on his hangnail.
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Agreed. I read somewhere in this thread where somebody wrote that the shill didn't really matter because it didn't afftect the final price. That's not the point. The point is, if people are willing to shill small items/amounts, they're also willing to shill larger items/amounts. |
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Peter,
Functionally what you say is right. My question would be why not just start the bidding at the lowest acceptable amount or install a reserve? My assumption is that the somewhere someone has determined that starting at a lower opener and creating the perception of an absolute/real auction (illusory or not) would result in more action and a higher result. If you have a "shill" then this is not what you end up with, an absolute auction that is. |
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All he has to do is check the bid history. Bidder IDs are not hidden from the seller. I'd be surprised if he hasn't checked yet. |
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Now, one could argue that bidder number 2 was willing to spend $500 on the card in the first place so there was no harm done, but without the shill (or however you want to sugar coat it), he might have won the card considerably cheaper if it were a true $.99 auction with no shills. On the particular card in question, it wouldn't have made a difference because the other bids were much higher than the shills. But how many other cards has this happened with from this particular consignor (pank21) where his "hidden reserves" drove the price up unnecessarily? |
David I don't see the difference. Case 1, there is an opening bid of 500, or a reserve of 500. You win if you bid 500, you lose if you don't. Case 2, an auction that looks absolute but is really shilled, you win if you bid 500, you don't get the card if you bid less. Same difference. Of course, IF it's an absolute auction you could win it for less without the shill, but you are fighting the hypothetical.
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Peter,
I can see your point and I guess there is really no difference if you are willing to accept and operate under the principle that there may always be factors at work, market driven and otherwise that will ensure that nothing sells under a certain price. IOW all auctions are really reserve price auctions even though they may be dressed up as something else. |
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What I'm really getting at here is the price for any item is what the market will bear. By shill bidding the seller created an artificially strong market for the item, effectively forcing you to overpay the market cost of the item. That would definately bother me. |
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Good night, gentlemen. |
When selling we want as much as we can get for something and when buying we want to pay the least. Most here sell very little and are accumulators/collectors. I am active in both aspects of the hobby. In Peter's scenario, where a consignor has a level in mind at which they will let something go and they place a protective bid at that level, I really do not have an issue with it. I can bid and win it or not. I would like to win it for less but obviously this particular card is not available for less, at this time. I really do not care who my competition is when buying or bidding. I know what I can afford to spend and what something is worth to me and that is what determines my bids on ebay or in any other format.
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So what happens when you accidentally win your own auction? I'm asking because shilling my own has never occurred to me. When I list, there's a reserve or buy it now option for that.
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Greg,
Not sure if you were asking me but I do not mind answering the question but my post was about my perspective as a buyer. I do not consign much of my inventory as I sell most of it myself on eBay or through direct sales. On eBay I use higher opening bids on cards I am concerned may not get to a level where I would be comfortable letting them go. Or I stick them in my store for all of you to ignore and use the Or Best Offer option. If those items do not sell after a period of time I either consign them to larger auction houses or I list them at 1 cent and hold my breath. In either case I am typically let down with the results. The auction format, with all of its flaws, has become the most successful method for transacting business in this hobby. Buyers are empowered and feel they get to set their own price and control the transaction by setting the price they are willing to pay. This is not typical of how most retail business is conducted. I do not believe people should have to pay the maximum they are willing to pay for an item but I think some buyers' objectives with protective bids or hidden reserves has to do with the threat it poses to a purely natural auction process of interested buyer versus interested buyer. Greg |
Greg, thanks and sorry I left Peter's name out as the primary person to which my question was directed. I forgot to mention starting the auction at a higher price in addition to buy it now and the reserve feature, and that I too hold my breath starting at .99 or .01.
If I'm understanding right, the term Hidden reserve is being used in place of shill bid and this is different than a maximum hidden reserve, both of which are known only by the seller. These are based on subjective percentages of what the seller expects the card to sell for and differentiated by whether or not the seller has knowledge of the highest bid. So what happens when your competitor, that is the person bidding against you for your card, loses to you? |
If a consignor wins his own card, then he tries to sell it again, or in a different format, or someplace else. This happens constantly, as many threads noting how soon after auctions cards appear someplace else attest to. It's just a fact of life -- people aren't giving cards away, for the most part. The good news about ebay is that nobody can see your snipe.
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~R1ck St. Ephen |
I'm going to go back to the beginning of the thread. Personally I never really understood/cared about Gem mint 10's, etc until now... Let me explain. As a collector, I actually usually look for vg-ex cards that are crease free, just look ok, etc... Not looking to spend a ton of money on cards, and not expecting to ever sell them for a lot.
This all changed when I saw a PSA 10 Jim Rice 1976 on ebay. I remember when I was in like 5th grade my friends older brother said we could have a few baseballs cards if we helped him with a clean-up project he had around the house. Anyway one of the cards I got was the Rice. This was back in the mid eighties and 76 was certainly "vintage" to me back then. I thought it was the coolest card ever with the trophy on it, etc... My dilemma is this. The Art Shell thing is just crazy. It's an eight all the way in my opinion. Slight marks on the black lines, some missing color spots on the ribbon. I mean its a heck of a card, but not a "10" The grading thing is in jeopardy if people start to fear that cards can earn a 10 if they don't deserve to. If buyers lose confidence it will be a big problem. To be quite frank, the Art Shell going from an 8 to a 10 is perhaps the most upsetting thing I've ever seen in the hobby. Its the only thing holding me back from buying the Rice |
I'm not sure how anyone one here could think its ok to trick a bidder into paying their BIN price with a fake auction bid. IMO that's terrible. Winning an honest auction provides a small piece of mind that there was at least one other guy willing to pay close to what you were willing to pay, somewhat solidifying that you paid what the card is currently worth.
If a false bid is really the same as setting a reserve, then please just set a reserve. I bid differently in auctions with a reserve, I know others here do too, which is likely why some people decide to hide there reserve with a shill. |
[QUOTE=Matthew H;1028379]I'm not sure how anyone one here could think its ok to trick a bidder into paying their BIN price with a fake auction bid. IMO that's terrible. Winning an honest auction provides a small piece of mind that there was at least one other guy willing to pay close to what you were willing to pay, somewhat solidifying that you paid what the card is currently worth.
I can't agree more. I think those who are not bothered by shilling and hidden reserves have an extreme confidence that they know the market value of the cards they bid on and therefore will not overpay no matter. But I ask the question: how do they get their data to come up with their determination of value? If they use any past auction results then the data they base their prices on may be skewed by shilling. |
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As for the seller I noticed he posted the following on this thread. Why he buried this response in an unrelated thread and didn't start one to put all collectors at ease is beyond me: http://forums.collectors.com/message...22&STARTPAGE=3 CU Board members, I welcome you or anyone to come to my office with a polygraph and video....hopefully, my replies below will shed light on the recent accusations... this is how I would reply to the following questions: did I sell a 73 psa art shell psa 8 with a unique amoeba like PD on the reverse ? ans: yes did I ever look or realize who the winner of the card was after the auction closed ? ans: no did I tip off to anyone that this card was perhaps special and have potential to bump ? ans: no was involved in cracking out the card in any fashion and resubmitting it to psa > ans: no did I have some special profit deal above my 5% for selling the card ? ans: no did I sell the card once bumped to a psa 10 with the same unique amoeba reverse ? ans: yes did I prompt/initiate/instruct any shill bidding on this card ? no, I had no knowledge of who was bidding on the card... have I taken any action against that bidders ID since it was shown to me that a safely bid was placed ? yes, i have blocked that ID.... why did they grade the card a psa 8 and then a psa 10 ? this is a question for psa...we don't grade them, we just sell them... gentleman , my role in the industry is very clear....we move inventory....we have an active consignor pool of over 400 consignors.... I currently don't have an account submitting cards to psa....I spend the lion share my time busy with consignments and buying large lots from auction houses and breaking up the lots.... we do not have any special arrangement with anyone who buys from our consignments, anyone is welcome to come to my office to view inventory like a major auction house and I will answer questions via any auction to the best of my ability....if someone wins a cards and decides to review it for a higher grade or cracks it out to resubmit, this is their own doing and we have NOTHING to do with it - we aren't partners with any buyers on item they win from probstein123 auctions - we take our 5% and thats it....as ebays largest seller , we do auction loads of cards that fall in this category, ie: old label psa 8's , well centered , that have never been reviewed before...if a dealer or collector wins these cards and gets some sort of bump , its without knowledge and participation from probstein123.... if psa/sgc or beckett holders a card we will sell it....if its raw and we think the card has been trimmed or altered in some way , we state this ( see our prior auctions ) ... thanks rick |
Holy cow, can you say "old news"?
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Let me throw this out at the board. I almost feel that any card that is going to get a PSA 10, should be "signed" off on by Joe Orlando. He's the face of PSA and how many "10's" actually come in to PSA ( Let me back up and we'll say any card before 1980 of a "star" player. Any pre- 1970 card of anyone must be signed off on ) Joe might not be a professional grader, but he's got a good set of eyes. He's seen enough cards to know what a 10 looks like. Heck, you could even include a little certificate with the card the says congrats, lists how many other 10's are for that particular issue, etc... I know if I were Joe, the Art Shell 8 to a 10 situation would have me hot and looking for answers from the graders that were involved.
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A big thanks to the sleuths over on the CU boards! |
To me the real question here is how did the Shell get a 10. I have seen other 10s on ebay of much more expensive cards that equally baffle me. And through cardtarget I have seen submissions where the number of consecutive 10s is troubling. In my opinion, the 10 grade is arbitrary and meaningless to begin with, as is the 98. I also don't like Beckett's system but that is for another thread; but in short I don't see how a card with less than Mint corners can be graded Mint.
The bidding aspect of this is inconsequential, I could not care less about a protective bid. |
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I do understand that this is about his consigner and PSA but it really makes him look bad when he doesnt address the issues. Maybe he feels he owes no explanation? |
David, if you snipe you don't have to worry about being shilled.
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I did mention to him about the card that went from an 8 to a 10. He said he hasn't personally seen it, and it's extraordinary, but does happen. I am not making any claims myself about the card. I will leave that to others. Also, keep in mind it's difficult to be perfect in a somewhat subjective industry, when you grade over 100,000 cards a month. I am not making excuses or saying mistakes should happen, but they do. Personally I think the hobby is better with PSA, SGC and Beckett all grading cards....I have my preferences but that will be for another thread. |
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It's interesting that Joe O has seen this thread but not the Art Shell... It's right there in post #1.
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I realize we can be held responsible for what we say on a public forum. It's just too bad that PSA can't be held accountable for overgrading that card. Well, I guess they could if the purchaser wanted to pursue it. I wonder if he's seen this thread? |
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Given our hobby's acceptance of slabbing companies, followed by our acceptance that grading is subjective, not much to be done. We brought it on ourselves. |
I've been paying attention to this thread off and on now, I keep asking a couple questions in my head and maybe some of you know the answers.
Does anyone know the grading process at PSA or even SGC? How many individuals are involved in grading a particular card? Is there a QA/QC of the grade before the card is slabbed? I've never seen an outline of the process that PSA or SGC go through in grading a card. With situations like this, when we wonder "How did that card get graded a 10?" wouldn't it be helpful to know how TPGs actually go about the process? I certainly hope that more than a single individual is involved in assigning a grade to a particular card. Wouldn't unusually high grades, like a pre-1980 Gem Mint 10 draw additional attention and scrutiny within PSA or SGC? |
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From PSA's website: "PSA guarantees that all cards submitted to it shall be graded in accordance with PSA grading standards and under the procedures of PSA" You're probably right though, he won't be complaining. It's already in his registry and it boosted the GPA of his set keeping him at number one and that's probably all that matters to him. Card? What card? He only bought plastic and a label. |
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http://www.psacard.com/services/psa_..._process.chtml If I read it correctly, a minimum of four different people review each card for grading accuracy. I don't know the official process at SGC, but I do know that I've had grades that have changed during the process (both up and down, and even to AUTH) prior to slabbing. |
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I think the problem is with the buyers more the graders. PSA no doubt likes the price, but never told anyone to spend $3,000+ on a 1973 Topps Art Shell. The prices for PSA 8s versus 9s versus 10s are created by the buyers. PSA may indeed promote things via the registry and advertising, but buying into a marketing campaign is no excuse, at least if you're an adult. It's the buyers' money.
So, do I think spending $3,000+ on this Art Malone card to be stupid? Yes, very. But I don't blame PSA. |
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