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You might consider selling your high grade cards and moving into lower grade, but great looking, cards? For me, it's fun to find really nice looking lower grade gems.
Collecting can still be fun but you need to decide what's best for you. One suggestion, take your time and sleep on it for a while (weeks or a few months). Many times the answer becomes clear after mulling it over for a while. Quote:
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And I'm definitely not going to move quickly. No sense in making a big decision based on one terrible event. |
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While I haven't had any of my collection outed, I am worried about it happening someday. I will continue to make the best decision I can on future card purchases. |
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We’ve gone from “misinformation” to “a different explanation”. Looking at the slabs, and of numerous other 50’s Topps cards, print variants from which sheet slot the card was in do not seem to disqualify high grades. This seems the more reasonable evidence for me to use, the evidence of what PSA has actually done, rather than to assume that any action done is a necessary action done and skipping the other work performed by Moser’s *finger and moisture*. Misinformation is factually false and inaccurate information usually with intent to deceive, not an opinion from the physical evidence that one just disagrees with or does not like. I will certainly admit that Moser has infinitely more experience submitting to PSA. As a collector of cardboard instead of a criminal fraudster, I don’t have as much need for their services ;) |
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If you sell this at auction to someone else and tether a disclosure to it, you may appease your moral compass, but from an economics perspective, all you've done is given someone else the opportunity for arbitrage, because it is an absolute certainty that someone (and likely the very next owner) will just resell it without disclosure. In fact, the disclosure itself nearly ensures that the next owner would be someone looking to profit from the opportunity because they would simply just outbid anyone who was afraid or put off by the disclosure. The card, and it's value, will persist unless it is destroyed. And if the card were sent to PSA, they would likely not honor their grade guarantee. They would say, "nope, looks good!" just like they always go. At the end of the day, selling with a disclosure attached accomplishes nothing. If you truly want to do the "right thing", then you need to either destroy the card, or crack it out and send it back to PSA raw with a note attached that says, "this card was recolored" and then eat the loss. But this model is unsustainable. The vast majority of high grade vintage cards have been tampered with in some way. You'd be removing a single grain of sand from the beach. Coming to terms with the fact that the entire high grade vintage market (and even a sizeable percentage of both the lower grade vintage and the modern market) has been f*d with is something that we either just accept or we live in denial about, or are simply ignorant of altogether. How we reach proceed with that knowledge is up to us individually. It has certainly helped to shap my purchasing decisions. I almost never buy a key vintage card graded above a 6, and I look for eye appeal. Yet I still end up with altered cards regularly. If I like the card regardless, I keep it. If I don't, I just resell it. And I don't attach my opinions to the listing. If I think it's altered, I don't care. Because if I did, I might as well give up on this hobby because the number of altered cards out there is endless. I'm not going to take a loss after loss into perpetuity to ease my conscience and effectively just give someone else free money. |
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Just because a bunch of other people are clueless or corrupt does not make it ok. Frankly, it's also a huge temptation that I manage to avoid. |
agreed!
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Thinking .. “ hooray “ card with a rough cut got a nice grade 🙄 |
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To each their own, right! If I were a newbee attempting to enter this hobby...with full disclosure of all the corruption/skechiness abound...I'd pick another hobby! |
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But instead of telling them to pick another hobby, I would try to steer them in a different direction. This card is 113 yrs old. None of us will look this good at 113. Nuff Ced! (from the BST yrs ago) . |
Thankfully my budget has me hunting low grade gems, generally can't afford anything vintage above a 1-2. I do find this thread fascinating. Some of those doctoring jobs I have to admit are pretty astonishing to me, seems to me there's some real skill involved there. It's the dishonesty that's the problem here, but for a psa bump from 5 to 9 meaning a $29,950 profit, it's no surprise this is happening.
All that said, it's interesting to me that the grading companies haven't starting offering something like "restored" as a qualifier to take some of the stigma off of "altered". I can see someone not from this world looking at this process as more like art restoration which is a rather common and accepted thing for really old and valuable artwork. |
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In that same post I was replying to both what you wrote as well as what snowman had written and this thread had misinformation. I never said that either of you had an intent to deceive. YIKES. Bit of a stretch there. Not everything should be this combative. Relax. |
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And what was the point of third party grading again? :confused: |
I agree if it's done for dishonest means it's completely unacceptable, and what I'm seeing highlighted in this thread is truly flat out fraud that should be illegal. I'm not trying to elevate fraud. But to say only unique items are acceptable for restoration seems pretty close minded. What about old cars? Or old watches? I have no problem imaging that there could be a legitimate market for restored old baseball cards, and there seems to me to be some real skill involved. The trick is the buyer has to know what they're buying. Sadly that's not what's happening in the card market.
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You can place a value on a disclosure. Sure, no problem. Sell it without one, then sell it with one and calculate the delta. But whatever that value difference is, it would be dwarfed when compared to the value delta between what it sold for with disclosure and what it sold for after cracking it out and having it reslabbed as "Authentic Altered". If you want to actually do the "right thing", then you have to crack it out and put it in an AA slab before you sell it. And you'd better be prepared to repeat the process for the majority of the cards in your collection. Hats off to anyone who is ready for that level of commitment to the hobby and to their moral compass. Because anything shy of that is just a self imposed tax one pays to help them sleep better at night. |
I honestly have no idea, but if raulus were to reach out to PSA with the before & after scans would he be laughed out of the building? Would there be any response from PSA? Seems to me that having the #2 PSA Willie Mays master set would at least warrant a response from someone.
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They might bump it to a 9.
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That might be the best solution. Raulus is made whole & the card is??? I wouldn't want it destroyed, but what is the solution to stop it from being graded by PSA a year from now?
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https://www.psacard.com/about/financialguarantee I've sent them an email as they requested, to get the process started. We'll see how it goes. I'm not holding my breath. They have an autoresponse to identify that they work to respond to emails within 3 days. I'm certainly more than happy to take the current market value for it, and hopefully they use it as a teaching moment for their graders. But both would seem like rather unreasonably high hopes. |
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Please let us know how that works out for you. I'm rooting for you. |
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https://media.npr.org/assets/img/201...-s1100-c50.jpg |
I would agree for the average collector. Raulus is not your average collector.
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No disrespect to this august body, but I'm not convinced they will be effectively swayed by my participation in this forum. I haven't really considered how I'm going to approach it once they get back to me. If they are dismissive, then I'll probably have to find ways to push a little harder. And I suppose a little online pressure can sometimes be used to help a company do the right thing. But we'll see how it goes, and I'll be happy to share the outcome when it unfolds. My guess is they'll look at the data, suggest that they are two different cards, and thank me for my time. Or some variation on that theme. |
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This is dangerous they could also lower the grade back down to a 7 and your Royally F&Cked…will only get compensated the difference.
Raulis just sit back take 72 hours and think this over sir. Again your collection is beautiful and you should be proud. |
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Unlike so many other alterations that are much harder to detect once the card is in the holder, the recoloring is not. I think they write checks on cards like this when they feel the alteration is not masked by the fact the card is encapsulated. This is why their guarantee is utterly worthless. |
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The current value difference between a 7 and an 8.5 is well into 5 figures. Now whether I should take the proceeds and invest it back into another comparable piece is another question, but I will cross that bridge if I ever get there. |
At this point, I'm not sure what is being accomplished by BODA continuing to call out some of these cards. Particularly those which were altered by guys like Moser. It's not like we're going to further tarnish his reputation. I think the message that he alters cards is pretty clear by now. Continuing to post examples of his work can only hurt innocent collectors at this point. And the legal exposure for the BODA crew is very much non-zero. If they are wrong about a card and it costs someone money, they could easily be sued. Similar suits are currently pending, in fact.
Does every high end collector just sit around and wait for their turn in the BODA hopper now? Should we all just light our 401c on fire now? Or perhaps the opposite will happen. The more that BODA posts, the more the hobby learns about what sorts of alterations are possible, and how they can be performed. Perhaps we will start seeing some of these well known card doctors offering their services with links to the BODA threads for free marketing, "As seen on BODA" |
Very original Travis, see my post 16.
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I read somewhere that Brian Brusokas is now working at PWCC. This is a joke, right? He's not really working there, is he?
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I think continuing to out altered cards that have gotten past PSA has a lot of value.
Awareness and knowledge are important. |
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That all said there are FBI Special Agents who took his place, thank goodness. I might add, I am a huge fan of Corndog and BODA at BO.....wish there were more of them!! Keep going guys.... . |
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Before bidding/buying any slabbed card, I now make it point to check the cert and any past sales before I jump right in. |
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I would agree with you that what he does (at least on vintage) stops short of true card doctoring. If soaking a T206 is not a sin, then neither is using moisture / humidity to lift dents out of cards or to perk up pressed-down corners from screw cases. In the right set of circumstances in a musty attic or basement, the same thing could happen naturally. I know that his "spray" has drawn criticism too, but whatever it's ingredients - it's a quick drying formula that leaves nothing on the surface. I ordered a small bottle just to play with it, and had moderate success lessening the appearance of (not totally removing) light wrinkles and creases on postwar vintage on some test cards in my own PC. As I'm not setting out to do this for a living or even make it part of my hobby, (and his recommended practices if you do it on a lot of cards can be quite time consuming) I kind of quit after that. Kurt does also have a "polish" for shiny ultramodern cards that seems to get out light scratches and imperfections. His videos are interesting to watch to say the least - and even though the polish to me seems to be a bit more in the vein of doctoring, I don't think he's ever had anything rejected by PSA or SGC. He's done everything from modern 1/1's to '52 Mantles it seems with good results. This is interesting to me just because of the upfront, no secrets nature of it and the way Kurt runs his YouTube channel. Given recent events and indeed the original subject of this thread - it doesn't seem like he will run out of business anytime soon. |
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I also have dirty cards in slabs that I really really really want to clean, but to do so would come at a great cost because they'd just end up with the same grade again after cleaning and resubmitting, and the grading fees on them would be in excess of $1k each |
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I have OCD (which runs in our family) but mine affects my collecting quite differently. If a card has any hint of doctoring or alteration, my OCD will immediately dismiss the possibility of owning it. Unless the card (or any collectible for that matter) is all-original, my eyes will always be drawn to the newly added color, trimming or bleaching. Any aspect that is not original to the card itself will automatically deem the card useless to me. Weird... huh! |
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Both are in DSM V or whatever we are up to.
OCD-1 OK with Card Doctoring OCD-2 Opposed to Card Doctoring |
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And I have "OCD-3 That's not card doctoring" syndrome |
Also, perhaps worth pointing out is that there is a significant difference between someone being a perfectionist and someone being clinically diagnosed with obsessive compulsive disorder. The two are often conflated in casual conversations or nomenclature. To have true OCD, you generally will experience actual physical distress or anxiety if you don't perform some sort of ritual. Which can often be something silly, such as Nomar Garciaparra's routine when he gets up to the plate. Surely, he had OCD as well. When I was younger, I used to have to get up from bed and flip my light switch on/off 3 times every night, or I wouldn't be able to sleep.
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If the stuff wasn't so expensive, I'd say the spray sounds a lot like watermark detector fluid. But one little 3.4 oz bottle is about $20-25. |
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I still have them someplace. I noticed a few years ago when I ran across them the creases and wrinkles have come back but not as bad as they were to begin with. For many years they looked really nice so in my case they did come back but it took several years before they started to reappear. |
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But if you simply toss a card into a humidor, you're not going to damage it at all, and you can often get the card to "remember" its original form, just like a sponge. Here's an example: I put my 61 Koufax into a humidor and these surface indents disappeared. No smashing needed. Just some moisture was all it took. If this is considered "doctoring", then so is shipping a card from Vegas to New Orleans. |
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OCD=Occupational Card Doctor.
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In related news, I actually had emailed them a few days before about another matter, and they haven't responded to that email either. So either they're ignoring all of my emails, or they're just slow. Or both. |
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Maybe I need to work my way back to anger now! |
I have been told that a sure fire method to eliminate creases, wrinkles, surface abrasions and soiling is to apply a small amount of nuclear waste, ensuring you are suited up when doing so. Supplies are often difficult to find, although I believe Japan is selling small bits through the dark web.
The only down side is the fact that your card is now radioactive. |
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