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-   -   Questions about selling a postwar collection (http://www.net54baseball.com/showthread.php?t=213862)

capricesquad 04-09-2016 09:28 AM

The latest 50 have popped up online. One did come up as a 9 but 7 were rejected as being too small or miscut. What exactly does that mean and is there anything I should know about those cards?


EXCELLENT-MINT 6 1962 Topps 53 AL Home Run Leaders Card
N6: MINIMUM SIZE REQUIREMENT 1962 Topps 288 Billy Williams Card
EXCELLENT-MINT 6 1962 Topps 516 Checklist 507-598 Yellow Boxes
NEAR MINT 7 1962 Topps 500 Duke Snider Card
EXCELLENT-MINT 6 MC 1962 Topps 313 Maris Blasts 61st Card
NEAR MINT 7 1962 Topps 440 Joe Jay Card
EXCELLENT-MINT 6 1962 Topps 470 Al Kaline All Star Card
N8: MISCUT 1962 Topps 312 Spahn Shows No-Hit Form Card
EXCELLENT-MINT 6 1962 Topps 59 AL Strikeout Leaders Card
NEAR MINT-MINT 8 1962 Topps 314 Colavito's Power Card
NEAR MINT 7 ST 1962 Topps 170 Ron Santo Card
NEAR MINT 7 1962 Topps 139 Babe Ruth Babe Hits 60-Green Tint Card
NEAR MINT 7 1962 Topps 54 NL Home Run Leaders Card
EXCELLENT 5 1962 Topps 310 Whitey Ford Card
NEAR MINT 7 1962 Topps 475 Whitey Ford All Star Card
NEAR MINT-MINT 8 1961 Topps 589 Warren Spahn All Star Card
NEAR MINT 7 1961 Topps 200 Warren Spahn Card
NEAR MINT 7 1961 Topps 533 Jack Curtis Card
NEAR MINT-MINT 8 1961 Topps 540 Jackie Jensen Card
NEAR MINT-MINT 8 1961 Topps 583 Del Crandall All Star Card
N8: MISCUT 1961 Topps 415 Hank Aaron Card
MINT 9 1961 Topps 573 Ken Boyer All Star Card
N6: MINIMUM SIZE REQUIREMENT 1961 Topps 307 Mantle Slams 2 Homers
NEAR MINT 7 1961 Topps 89 Billy Martin Card
NEAR MINT 7 1961 Topps 443 Duke Snider Card
EXCELLENT-MINT 6 1961 Topps 472 Yogi Berra MVP Card
EXCELLENT-MINT 6 1961 Topps 425 Yogi Berra Card
NEAR MINT 7 1961 Topps 530 Bobby Malkmus Card
NEAR MINT 7 1961 Topps 563 Bob Cerv Card
NEAR MINT 7 1961 Topps 560 Barry Latman Card
NEAR MINT 7 1961 Topps 549 Hal R. Smith Card
EXCELLENT-MINT 6 1961 Topps 475 Mickey Mantle MVP Card
NEAR MINT-MINT 8 1961 Topps 560 Barry Latman Card
EXCELLENT 5 1961 Topps 482 Willie Mays MVP Card
NEAR MINT-MINT 8 1961 Topps 495 Elston Howard Card
N8: MISCUT 1961 Topps 557 Jose Valdivielso Card
N8: MISCUT 1961 Topps 548 Ted Wills Card
NEAR MINT-MINT 8 PD 1961 Topps 435 Orlando Cepeda Card
NEAR MINT 7 1961 Topps 565 Felipe Alou Card
EXCELLENT 5 1961 Topps 338 Don Landrum Card
NEAR MINT+ 7.5 1961 Topps 260 Don Drysdale Card
NEAR MINT+ 7.5 1961 Topps 573 Ken Boyer All Star Card
N8: MISCUT 1961 Topps 1 Dick Groat Card
NEAR MINT 7 1961 Topps 228 Yankees Team Card
NEAR MINT 7 1961 Topps 586 Whitey Ford All Star Card
NEAR MINT+ 7.5 1961 Topps 460 Gil Hodges Card
NEAR MINT-MINT 8 1961 Topps 568 Bill Skowron All Star Card
NEAR MINT 7 1961 Topps 19 Cletis Boyer Card
NEAR MINT 7 1961 Topps 572 Brooks Robinson All Star Card
EXCELLENT 5 1961 Topps 41 NL Batting Leaders Card

capricesquad 04-09-2016 09:39 AM

Also the Babe hits 60 1962 topps green tint says it's a pop of 5 with only 5 higher. I'm assuming that's specifically the green tint card pop but they don't have a separate green tint price guide do they?

irv 04-09-2016 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by capricesquad (Post 1525304)
The latest 50 have popped up online. One did come up as a 9 but 7 were rejected as being too small or miscut. What exactly does that mean and is there anything I should know about those cards?


I don't know with a 100% certainty, but it would lead me to believe they were trimmed at some point with a knife or scissors?

I believe all cards submitted are put up against known real, uncut/trimmed ones to see if the size is the same? If they aren't, then they deem them trimmed.

swarmee 04-09-2016 10:26 AM

A little bit different, irv.

Min size requirement means that the cards don't measure up to the 2.5"x3.5" size of a standard card from those years. They have a different code for Evidence of Trimming. So what this means is that PSA believes they were probably short when they left the factory at Topps. Since they're not full size cards, they aren't going to grade them, but they also shouldn't have charged you for them.

The miscut ones I would ask PSA to still encapsulate them, as you're paying for them. Call them ASAP and put a hold on your shipping order and have them holdered.

pokerplyr80 04-09-2016 10:27 AM

It means they didn't meat the minimum size requirement but the cards show no signs of trimming or alteration. A miss cut from the factory. Quite common for that era. You could try again with the same company a different one, or keep or sell them raw. Others have had the same thing happen and have resubmitted to PSA and received numerical grades the second or third time. Grading is subjective so you never know.

swarmee 04-09-2016 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by capricesquad (Post 1525307)
Also the Babe hits 60 1962 topps green tint says it's a pop of 5 with only 5 higher. I'm assuming that's specifically the green tint card pop but they don't have a separate green tint price guide do they?

Yes, that would be for the Green Tint version of the card only. If you insert the ID# here: http://www.psacard.com/cert/00000001/
they normally will show the overall count of all cards, not just the green tint variant.
I am surprised they are still telling the difference, as I thought they were considering getting out of the Green Tint identification business.

Based on some messages on the PSA message board, it's up to their discretion whether to put Green Tint on the card or not, so it's not something you're always going to get. But congrats on that card. Congrats on the 9 as well.

irv 04-09-2016 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swarmee (Post 1525322)
A little bit different, irv.

Min size requirement means that the cards don't measure up to the 2.5"x3.5" size of a standard card from those years. They have a different code for Evidence of Trimming. So what this means is that PSA believes they were probably short when they left the factory at Topps. Since they're not full size cards, they aren't going to grade them, but they also shouldn't have charged you for them.

The miscut ones I would ask PSA to still encapsulate them, as you're paying for them. Call them ASAP and put a hold on your shipping order and have them holdered.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pokerplyr80 (Post 1525323)
It means they didn't meat the minimum size requirement but the cards show no signs of trimming or alteration. A miss cut from the factory. Quite common for that era. You could try again with the same company a different one, or keep or sell them raw. Others have had the same thing happen and have resubmitted to PSA and received numerical grades the second or third time. Grading is subjective so you never know.

Interesting.

So if it is fact these cards were mis-cut from the factory and therefore can't be authenticated, (that is what I am assuming?) then they are basically looked at as fakes, or not real, and that is why they are not slabbed?

Seems like a crappy deal if you know for a fact they are just mis-cuts and your cards are practically worth nothing and would be hard(er) to sell. (assuming again?)

Thanks for the clarification. :)

swarmee 04-09-2016 12:23 PM

Well, a raw set collector probably won't care. However, after PSA got a lot of complaints about certain sets where they approved too many short cards (like 1975 Topps mini), so they started being more strict on short cards. But that doesn't mean they wouldn't get graded if sent in again, or to a different grader.

Miscuts would be worth less, normally two grades for a qualifier card. So 8(MC) would sell around the price of a 6.

capricesquad 09-16-2016 01:31 PM

My dad is now pretty much retired and I think I'm going to sell the cards using ebay as a project with him. Is there a recommended way to scan and ship that collectors prefer when selling on ebay?

At this point I am planning to go through the cards. And make bundles of 4 or 6 cards from the same set. Scan them as a group and list them together on ebay for .01. I'm assuming I will have to take them out of the cardsavers to scan them? Is charging $3-4 to cover the card savers and shipping decent?

brob28 09-16-2016 01:49 PM

Most sellers charge $3 or less for shipping a single card so your in the ballpark. Although I've never used it I believe Ebay has a shipping calculator as well that may be helpful.

I recommend listing graded and star cards individually, and stick to groups with the commons. The Caveat here is if the commons are in really nice condition, short prints, variations or high numbers list them individually as well for better results. Now that you have several graded cards in hand you should have a better idea of which ones would fall into the "really nice" category, (don't forget centering counts).

Don't use pictures in your listings, scan the cards front and back.

Make sure to let us know what your Ebay seller name is as I'm sure there are individuals here who would be interested in bidding some of these. I count myself in that group.

Finally, good luck I'm sure its been a fun journey for you, I've enjoyed seeing the collection!!

irv 09-16-2016 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by capricesquad (Post 1585540)
My dad is now pretty much retired and I think I'm going to sell the cards using ebay as a project with him. Is there a recommended way to scan and ship that collectors prefer when selling on ebay?

At this point I am planning to go through the cards. And make bundles of 4 or 6 cards from the same set. Scan them as a group and list them together on ebay for .01. I'm assuming I will have to take them out of the cardsavers to scan them? Is charging $3-4 to cover the card savers and shipping decent?

Everything what, Bill said, but you may want to try here to sell your cards, or some of them here instead of E-Bay as you will have fees to pay for listings etc.

If you decide E-Bay is the only route, then, like Bill mentioned, please post your name/link here.

You have some very nice cards, and it was fun watching you post them occasionally!

Good Luck. :)

capricesquad 09-16-2016 07:58 PM

I'm not sure I know enough about grading to sell the cards over the internet here. I feel like posting clear scans on ebay would be the best route rather than guess the condition and sell someone on here a card that ends up being not as nice as they expected due to my eye for cards not being the greatest.

Probably be a long term process but I'm not really in a hurry and I'll get an excuse to spend more time with my dad anyways.

Mdmtx 09-16-2016 09:18 PM

Don't forget that there is an auction section on this forum too. Then you don't have to set the price, the buyers will - just like eBay but no fees.

divecchia 09-16-2016 09:19 PM

Great collection. Best of all it's given you and your dad a reason to spend time together. I never had a chance to do something like this with my dad. Make the most of it and don't worry so much about the sales. Just enjoy your time together, the rest is gravy.

Donato

irv 09-17-2016 04:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by capricesquad (Post 1585648)
I'm not sure I know enough about grading to sell the cards over the internet here. I feel like posting clear scans on ebay would be the best route rather than guess the condition and sell someone on here a card that ends up being not as nice as they expected due to my eye for cards not being the greatest.

Probably be a long term process but I'm not really in a hurry and I'll get an excuse to spend more time with my dad anyways.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mdmtx (Post 1585656)
Don't forget that there is an auction section on this forum too. Then you don't have to set the price, the buyers will - just like eBay but no fees.

Exactly!

Describe the cards the best you can (note creases etc if any), post some clear pics/scans of the front and back then the rest is up to the purchaser.

E-Bay is the same. Potential buyers look at the scans then decide themselves what shape the card is in then bid accordingly.

Good luck.

JustinD 09-17-2016 07:02 AM

Yes, please let us know your ebay ID and when you start listing. I will certainly be a bidder on several.

Good luck!

mintacular 09-17-2016 02:33 PM

Be careful
 
Be careful about selling random groups together as you describe, can be a money killer. PM me if you need any advice, can talk over the phone

swarmee 09-17-2016 03:18 PM

Be sure to combine shipping to increase the number of repeat bidders and decrease the work in mailing.
Make sure to note variations like the 1962 Green Tints and pose variations.

brian1961 09-18-2016 10:09 PM

Wishing you the very best. Make yourself be patient with the task of learning how to submit cards for grading. Do not be afraid to ask us questions. It is kinda tedious, but that is where the money is. The cards seem to be in way above average condition for a childhood collection. Hang in there, and TAKE YOUR TIME. ---Brian Powell

campyfan39 09-19-2016 08:26 AM

I read this entire thread and finished with a lump in my throat. What an experience you are having. My Dad passed at age 53 and I have his cards that he purchased in the 1980's but wow to have some of the ones he collected as a kid....I can't even imagine how special that would be.

I do hope you hang on to a few and of course the personalized journals and sticker books. They are the most valuable thing in the find. Some things (many actually) are worth much, much more than money.
Good luck,

spaidly 09-19-2016 04:19 PM

Hi Caprice

This collection is just like my first childhood collection except yours has so many doubles! I hope you're still reading these posts as your participation in the hobby with submissions et. al. on your Dad's behalf is fantastic and I want the story to continue. My Dad collected as a kid in the early 50's and Gramma chucked all his stuff into oblivion. For some odd reason his 1953 Tarzan3D She Devil set survived. I finished the set and will never sell it.

Thank you for sharing everything. The notebook with the stickers took my breath away. Wonderful.

Scott

capricesquad 09-25-2016 11:40 PM

Thanks again to all the members of this board who have taken their time to help me learn more about the hobby. It's been an interesting ride thus far.


Is there a recommend way of scanning cards? I assume I will have to take them out of their card savers to scan but I'm a bit wary of damaging them in the process.

irv 09-26-2016 03:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by capricesquad (Post 1588475)
Thanks again to all the members of this board who have taken their time to help me learn more about the hobby. It's been an interesting ride thus far.


Is there a recommend way of scanning cards? I assume I will have to take them out of their card savers to scan but I'm a bit wary of damaging them in the process.

It's not necessary. All my cards in my links below were taken in top loaders or the PSA/SGC graded slabs.

Out of the loaders would likely make for better pics but like you said, it is not worth taking the chance on.

capricesquad 11-04-2016 06:07 PM

I threw a few Commons on ebay to get a handle on the selling end of things. I got burned trying to sell a truck for what I thought was a friend a few years back and haven't sold anything since.

If you see any 1963 Post commons that link to this thread that is me.

swarmee 11-04-2016 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by capricesquad (Post 1599631)
I threw a few Commons on ebay to get a handle on the selling end of things. I got burned trying to sell a truck for what I thought was a friend a few years back and haven't sold anything since.

If you see any 1963 Post commons that link to this thread that is me.

Cool; I'll take a look. Good luck!

irv 11-04-2016 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by capricesquad (Post 1599631)
I threw a few Commons on ebay to get a handle on the selling end of things. I got burned trying to sell a truck for what I thought was a friend a few years back and haven't sold anything since.

If you see any 1963 Post commons that link to this thread that is me.

I forgot to mention in my previous thread, when scanning cards, do so with the lid open and the lights off. I learned this trick from another member and I am glad I did. The extra detail is worth it, plus, imo, it makes the cards look better.

When you get a chance, post a E-Bay link to your cards.

Good luck with your sale. :)

Wannabeoldschool 11-06-2016 10:39 PM

Selling Thoughts
 
Sorry if you already know this, but just in case.

On eBay you can see what previous cards have sold for over the last three months in order to get a rough estimate of the going eBay price. Click on the "advanced" button to the right of the search button and click the "sold listings" box. If a price has a line through it then the seller and buyer agreed on a price. To find that price, click on the listing and copy the eBay item number which is about 12 numbers long on the right side, part way down the page. Then go to watchcount.com, paste the number in the Keywords box and click "Show me what's most popular".

What most members would like to see happen is for you to list your cards here for slightly less than the eBay going price. However, you would still make more money through a private sale since you won't pay the eBay 10% fee and possibly PayPal's 2.9% +.30 if you use the Friends and Family (F/F) option. Depending on the price, the buyer may elect not use the F/F option since the buyer has no recourse if something goes wrong with the transaction and just ask you to send him an invoice via PayPal.

I just learned all this a few months ago as I'm trying to get back into the hobby after a 20 year hiatus. There are many a folk here that know more than me and probably PM'd you with advice, but it sounds like you've done your research. I would hate for you to get cheated on your Dad's collection. We all look forward to seeing how it turns out.

drmondobueno 11-11-2016 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by capricesquad (Post 1585648)
I'm not sure I know enough about grading to sell the cards over the internet here. I feel like posting clear scans on ebay would be the best route rather than guess the condition and sell someone on here a card that ends up being not as nice as they expected due to my eye for cards not being the greatest.

Probably be a long term process but I'm not really in a hurry and I'll get an excuse to spend more time with my dad anyways.

Most collectors on Net54 are rather experienced at buying and selling, which I gather you are getting. Most will work with you on a BST sale as we all know about this thread! That means you will more than likely get a good price at minimal cost AND RISK to you. There are threads here over and over talking about how eBay can be....not very good in dealing with unscrupulous buyers, in your case, who may try and take advantage of a new seller (never got the card, want my money back, changed my mind, not paying) or ANY seller, and leave you with no recourse. That is much less likely here. Have you met and/or talked with Leon? He is a great resource and is another person who will have your, and Net54's back.

As far as condition, clear scans go a long way for a seller and buyer. The one comment I would make may be a card with a wrinkle, loss of paper or such that is not clearly seen on a scan. In my case I am targeting ungraded cards for my postwar collection, for the most part. A clear scan and honest seller goes a long way with many of us. You'll get all kinds here, graded card, ungraded card, green tint collectors, Bazooka and Post collectors, guys chasing Exhibits, and of course player collectors ( I am a Clemente guy!). Dealers, too. BTW, ALL and I mean ALL of my transactions on Net54 have been positive, including a few that ended up going sideways (keep in touch, talk, it'll all work out is my attitude, and they have). My negative experiences have all been on eBay, but that is just me.

Maybe try the BS&T and eBay. Many sellers try a sale here and then move to eBay if a card gets no action. Costs you nothing but time and effort on the BST.

Guess this is my way of saying I hope this all goes well for you and your Dad! Have fun!

Keith


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