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It is a myth that what you paid for a card determines what your sale price is.
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It's comical to me when a seller says something like this, I'm into this for this I need to get that. Is it true? Is it not true? Trying a guilt trip ? That story is not relevant in a business decision. |
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There is a psychological thing about not wanting to take a loss when you move on from a card. Selling bigger cards in my collection is almost like a mini divorce. I recently sold a '52 Topps Mays and there was a time I would never have considered parting with it, but I began to feel like the card was not as good as the grade it had been given and once I decided to sell it I ended up taking less than maybe I could have, in addition to missing the peak back in Feb/March, but I still did well on the card. Anyway, much like real divorce you can have various regrets but hopefully you're for the most part glad to move on, even if it ends up costing a shitload of dough, as my first and hopefully last real divorce did. If the '52 Topps Mays starts appreciating again I will probably have my regrets. It's only natural.
Ironically, back in the Junk Wax era, I bought a '52 Bowman Mays which ended up having a wrinkle that I didn't see and I ended up selling it and taking a loss and it precipitated my departure from the hobby at the time (as was the fact that I was 18 and in college and outgrew it as it turns out temporarily). Losing $ is tough to take for most folks but they should probably keep that issue to themselves when trying to sell a card. It's not the buyer's problem. |
Myth: 1936 Diamond Star cards with blue ink are rarer than the green ink cards, and so if you find one in good condition it is therefore worth more than its green-backed counterpart from 1934. Price guides will confirm this.
NO. The rarest diamond star cards in good condition are the 1934 cards with green backs (1-23). It is nearly impossible to find a true 1934 Diamond Star card in excellent condition or better. If you have a psa 5 or better from 1934, I’ll buy it. Blue-backed 1936 DS in excellent condition are plentiful, and should be cheaper than the ’34 versions, but they're not. |
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I have one more.
1967 Topps high numbers are really difficult. |
PSA is the best TPG'er.
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You can probably substitute PSA with a well known sports signature authenticator whose initials include an S and a J, as well as a few other TPGs and so-called autograph experts. |
"Set break" actually means what the name implies.
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When used in a sales listing, the term 'complete set' means that the set is actually complete.
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100% truth! waaaay back in the 1980's when I was simply an a**hole teen (fast forward to NOW - I'm no longer a teen but still have a**hole tendencies), my personal retort to a potential seller who said..."but it books for..." my answer was always "...then just sell it to the f***ing book!..." . |
The ink in 1933 Goudeys "Bleeds Through" the card.
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Are they or are they not? |
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Babe Ruth: 85.3 7yr-peak WAR Barry Bonds: 72.7 7yr-peak WAR Mike Trout: 65.1 7yr-peak WAR Mickey Mantle: 64.7 7yr-peak WAR Don Mattingly: 35.7 7yr-peak WAR Rusty Staub: 33.3 7yr-peak WAR Rabbit Maranville : 30.5 7yr-peak WAR Harold Baines: 21.7 7yr-peak WAR https://66.media.tumblr.com/3d5bc995...lrco2_400.gifv |
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PSA’s motto: “Never get cheated”
Of course, unless, you are duped into buying PSA authenticated HOF reprints of 1914 cracker Jacks and/or t206s |
I guess you could sum up the myth as:
"Buying a graded card insures the card is authentic" |
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Prices are softening seems to be a myth.
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You are less likely to buy an altered card if it is graded by PSA instead of raw.
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It's a limited edition so it must be valuable.
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No major card company would ever release an error card on purpose in order to drum up interest in their set.
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One of Billy Ripken's teammates wrote on his bat knob.
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~~~(___________(____() |
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The 1952 Topps Mantle is a "grail" card, not just a normal double print that you can buy in almost any auction
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https://photos.imageevent.com/exhibi...0guy%20yaz.jpg |
An Auction House Rarity
1987 Bo Jackson RCs
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1952 Was the first year Topps made baseball cards...
1952 Was the first year Topps made baseball cards...
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Myths
A player's "Rookie Card" is his 1st card in a major national set.
Buying a professionally graded card guarantees you and protects you that the card has not been altered or trimmed. If you have a problem with an item won from a major auction house, you can complain and will get a refund. You always come out ahead by investing in the major stars, like Cobb, Ruth and Gehrig. Grading company counts of T206's with rare backs are accurate population figures. Dealers who have been in the hobby for a long time are trustworthy because of their experience. |
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Lies, damned lies, and Novelty Cutlery postcard dates.
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Looking only at the BIN prices that (unsold) cards are listed for on eBay tells you what your cards are actually worth.
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When it comes to the T206 Wagner, if you happen to come across one that allegedly came from a strip or sheet and someone allegedly did a poor job of cutting it and you trim it just to make it look nicer and present it to a TPG who in their first-ever slab give it a high grade despite knowing that it was trimmed and a couple of famous people in the sports world buy it despite allegedly knowing that it has issues and everybody involved presents it to the public as the find of the century and after the fraud is discovered the card goes up in value and the TPG ends up as the most trusted entity in the hobby, that kind of thing could never happen.
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This yellow/blue/green starburst
ultra sparkle terra-fractor road jersey parallel backwards cap variation super duper extra ludicrous short print rookie patch auto numbered to 3.142857 is a good INVESTMENT |
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Would be near mint if not for missing piece of card. Fabulous opportunity!
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Pi is a slightly different number |
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All this talk of pie is making me hungry.
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