Question for the T206 set builders

[vintagetoppsguy]

How did you tackle the “Monster” when building your set? I have heard some individuals say that they built their set group by group - going after a certain group of players, then another, then another, etc. For example, first all the HOFers, then all the southern leaguers, then minor leaguers, then portraits, etc. Or did you perhaps build it team by team? So my question is, did you use any particular method when building the set, or just buy whatever was available whenever you could pick it up?

Also, for the guys who have already completed their sets, how long did it take you to build?

I just started this set a couple of months ago. I only have 14 cards at this point (including 4 HOFers). I know it’s not many, but you have to start somewhere, right? So far, I have focused on cards that are aesthetically pleasing - cards with a lot of vibrant colors and that are well centered. Anyway, I figure it will take me about 14-15 years, buying 2-3 cards a month.

Thanks in advance for your answers.

David

[jp1216]

Good Luck! There are many threads covering this topic. Many paths to take. Enjoy.

[CardTarget]

I'm about about 200 cards right now. I'm trying to do it slowly and economically. I bought about 4-5 big lots of cards at the beginning and then sorted them all out and figured out which I had doubles of (about 15 cards). I sold or traded those for other cards. Now I'm finally to a place where I need to have my checklist handy. I only had 4 HOFers in my initial purchases, so I'm concentrating on slowly getting all of them now.

So... I'm looking for lower grade HOFers with nice fronts. I don't care about the back much. SGC 10 with a beautiful front and the back ripped off is fine with me... as long as the price is right. =)

Mike

[BleedinBlue]

I'm currently at 131 cards. 25% of the way to 524.

When I began the set I decided to do it alphabetically. One card at a time. That lasted about 4 cards until I couldn't find the next card (Doc Adkins) for a few weeks. Then I decided to just do all the "A" cards at once. That went well since there were only 14 cards and no HOF'ers or SL'ers so I could find them but didn't get overwhelmed with quantity or price.

Somewhere along the way I decided to put together a Brooklyn set since that has always been my team. That added 27 cards to my wantlist but Whitely Alperman was already covered in the first "A" group so, really it's only 26, not a big deal to acquire. There is a Zack Wheat card and Bill Dahlen Brooklyn is a toughie but nothing earth shattering.

Then I thought I'd also add the "150 only" cards to my list. There's only 11 of them and some are cool horizontal poses. Should be easy right? Plus some were already covered in the "A" group or the "Brooklyn" group like Red Ames, Al Burch or Harry Pattee. So no big deal. Right? 8 more cards, right?

Then I finished up the "A" group and started on the "B" group. 53 cards. Some already covered above but definately a step up in effort. And cost. SL'ers started joining the mix. Plus HOF'ers and a couple more toughies. No problem I thought, I can handle it. But, a lot of options now. Definately finding cards from my list everywhere I look. Buying really picking up now.

Then I just said screw it and bought anything I could find for a reasonable price. Reasonable being whatever the seller was asking for the card so long as his name wasn't Levi. That's when things got to be a problem. Did I mention that I started this set 6 months ago and have already taken two different month long breaks? 131 cards in essentially 4 months of buying. Notice I didn't say I paid for 131 cards in 4 months. My friend Visa is going to take a lot longer to pay off.

Whatever approach you can control is the best approach. You will have demonstrated more will power than I have.

Brian

[Robextend]

I was at 15% when I decided to sell off (on this board) and re-focus on other projects. Now I am slowly getting lured back into it.

When I first started I bought a couple lots from fellow board members at a pretty good price which included some HOFers. That gave me a nice base to work with; I wasn't concerned too much with backs or even appearance.

I think now the approach for me is to be patient and let the cards come to me. I am more concerned with appearance and I appreciate having some diversity as far as backs go.

Whatever approach you take be sure to have fun with it.

Rob

[tedzan]

I started my 1st T206 set, card by card, in 1981 and it took me 14 years to "complete" it (521 cards w/Magie).
It was not my top priority back then, as I was also completing many BB (and certain FB) sets from 1887-1987.

My 2nd set was easier.....after I sold my 1st set in 1997.....I bought a large collection of T206's (400+ cards).
I "completed" it with 520 cards, and with 35 different T-backs in 4 years.

Then, I wanted to specialize by completing an all-PIEDMONT set. I started this 3rd set in 2006 by breaking up
my 2nd set (33% of which comprised of PIEDMONT cards). It took me just 11 months to complete a 519-card
set (no Demmitt, Doyle, O'Hara, Plank, Wagner).

I started my 4th set in 2007. I had acquired 278 diff. SOVEREIGN cards in one lot. This all-SOVEREIGN set was
completed with 407 cards in less than a year. There are 117 "no-prints" in a SOVEREIGN set.

My 5th set, an all-SWEET CAPORAL, Factory 30 set, was started in 2008. It is complete with 467 cards (no
Plank & Wagner). It was accomplished in less than a year.


My advice to most, who are starting to collect "The Monster"....acquire a large lot of ungraded T206's (100 to
250 cards). Otherwise, it will try your patience, and your pocketbook, and eventually you will surrender to it.


TED Z

[hennessey16]

nice topic, My set started with the 150 series, then progressed to the horizonals. Since that was fairly easy I collected all the HOF'ers portraits once that was done I went for all the HOF'ers ( only need Cobb Bat off)
Since I did that I'm going to obtain all the cards in the SMR mag.( only need Dahlen and lundgren) minus the big 5. Been at it since aug 2006 Just passed the century mark in cards. GOOD LUCK on your adventure.

[donmuth]

I'm about 12% done with 62 cards (5 HOF'er cards, 5 SL'ers, the rest commons of some variety).

After picking up my first few cards (Pfeffer & Mordecai Brown Cubs shirt), I decided to focus on the backs. I am still doing that but have most of them except for the 10+ toughest ones (Cobb, Drum, Red Hindu, Lenox, Uzit, Piedmont 350-460 Fac 42, Broad Leaf). Also, still need AB460, AB350 (no frame), Cycle 350, & Sovereign 150.

After doing backs for awhile, I identified small groups of cards that I could go after. One example is the 150 Series cards that has already been mentioned. Another is the horizontal pose cards. Another was to get all the poses of a particular player.

I also started working on a few team sets. Of course if you do team sets, then pick your teams carefully. My four team wantlists include the Cubs (which includes 13 HOF'er cards), NY Giants (which has lots of cards including 10 HOF'er cards), Tigers (9 HOF'er cards including all 4 Cobbs - OUCH!), and Pittsburgh (which is not too bad for HOF'er cards except for that pesky Honus Wagner fella). I didn't pick too wisely it seems.

My thought was if I broke the Monster into smaller, more manageable pieces, then I'd get a sense of accomplishment as I checked them off one-by-one thus keeping me motivated. I think this approach will work... but it requires some self disciple (which I apparently lack) to focus your efforts on your goal rather than work things randomly based on what you find on eBay or the B/S/T boards.

Of course if you do follow this type of approach closely, you will miss out on good deals. So, you must ask yourself which is better... getting that impulse buy card for 20% below value for example, or making a dent in the group you're working on with your plan?


I think most people end up just looking for good deals where they can pick up cards quickly and not really force themselves to stay focused on any particular plan of attack. Mostly I've been in this club. It's not necessarily the best approach though because you'll find those tough cards you've waited on will be even tougher by the time you get around to needing them in your plan. Of course, maybe you'll have more money to spend by that time too.

My latest approach (which is sure to change again in 6 months) is to rank the common player cards based on difficulty and their eye appeal. Using this approach, I have some of the tougher commons near the top of my want list along with some cards that I just plain like (Overall portrait for example). As I work these off, I'll start figuring out if I want to go back to tackling team sets, HOF'ers, SL'ers, or what ever.

Maybe all this just points out that maybe the key to taming the Monster isn't in having a good plan, but being flexible to changing your plan often!

Good luck!

[T206Collector]

...sans Wagner, Doyle, Plank and Magie.... and then dumped virtually all of them to pay for a Plank and Magie back in 2007. Since then I have gotten back just a bit over 100 cards.

Collecting signed T206 cards definitely has gotten in the way of putting back together an unsigned set -- both in terms of economics and in terms of interest. I now have 35 different signed T206 cards, which is about 33 more than I ever thought I'd have a few years ago. When I take a break and look at my cards, I always focus on the signed ones, which unfortunately makes the unsigned ones look a little bare by comparison. But I still do enjoy flipping through a 100-deep stack of raw T206 cards, and so I still consider myself climbing that mountain (again).

When I'm in the market, I like to buy groups of raw ones in the $10-$25 range per card. I'll go to a show with $200 and try to get a dozen or more with the cash in my pocket. That sort of thing. But if you have a little extra coin and can find a larger group, it sure makes it a quicker trip.

[toppcat]

I wrote on this a little while ago. I decided to focus on expensive cards first, which to me was Green Cobb down to Speaker, then I went after a few of the tougher variations, Southern Leaguer and 150 only cards and now I am working on the next level of HOF'ers from Lajoie down to the veteran's committee guys, the rest of the Southern Leaguers and a some 460 only cards. Sometime this summer I'll try to buy a lot of 100-150 commons if all holds, which would put me about halfway there. I mix in backs where I can and hope to get 'em all up to and including Lenox (in ascending order of rarity).

I'm not buying all that many at the moment as I've been buying a few other things but the layoff means prices have come down a little, so win-win!

[teetwoohsix]

I have no rhyme or reason to how I've been collecting,I sort of just see a card (or cards) I like,within my price range,and go for it.HOF'ers,minor league,a couple semi-hard backs,common's,etc........the other night,I took a photo of my cards spread out on a coffee table-below is the photo.14 of these have been picked up from board members on the BST(thanks again Jim,Tim,and Dave ).I've also bought some of these from board members,but through Ebay transactions.My main goal is to get to at least 518 with a sample of every back(minus the Cobb back) in a grade 3 to 4 or better,SGC,BVG,PSA............good luck on your quest(I am at 54 now)........
Sincerely,Clayton

[cfc1909]

First -I will never be complete because I want every front and back combo that exist.

I started by aquiring my first Ty Cobb card-bat on in ex for $100 in 1989. Started going to the Philly show and buying cards of the Cubs team. When I got to about 50 206s I located a checklist and then the backs started. Mail orders from Dave Levins site around 2000 maybe 2002. It took about 2 years to get 1 example of each back to 32 or so then another 2 or 3 years to get Uzit, Drum, brown Lenox and BL 460. After that I desided I needed 10 examples of each back and went crazy on th etough backs on ebay and the Philly show during the late 90s and early 2000s.
Finally got brown Old Mill about a year ago. I was the underbidder on this back in Lipset about 8-10 years ago. You just don't see this back on the market. If you have a chance DO NOT let it go by. BL 460 is the 3rd toughest. Brown Lenox and brown Old Mill both have less examples in ciculation with BOM the toughest.
Somewhere around 2000 I started going after the 117 possible Baltimore combos. I am currantly at 75 different.

I will always pick up examples of this set but for now and for a very long time my focus will be in the south.

good luck and happy collecting.

[steve B]

90+ cards, 92 plus a few I haven't put in the spreadsheet yet.

But that's taken me 32 years!

I'm more of an opportunistic collector, and I collect most any card from any era. I like the old stuff much better though. I've had a few "vacations" from collecting cards, but I still got a few each year.

Getting setup with the spreadsheet let me see that I was missing a few common backs,I don't know how I missed getting either of the SC overprints. so that's been a big help. I'm thinking of picking a group to try to complete, which might be a bit of fun.

Steve B

[Jantz]

David

Here is my advice to you. Buy the HOFers, Southern Leaguers and Tough Variations first. I say this because if you get further into this set and your collecting interests change or something happens in your life where you may have to sell some of the cards, you at least have T206s from the set that carry demand. Collectors, whether they are building this set or not, always have interest in the HOFers or rare cards. Also, just having a complete subset of the HOFers is a nice collection in itself. Once you have all the HOFers or SLers out of the way, if you choose to finish the set, it will go alot easier.

Hope this helps

Jantz

[majordanby]

i started out with HOF'ers, specifically portraits, and tough variations. got through all cobbs, mathewsons, johnsons, youngs and added magie and o'hara. But, financial reality hit, so i redefined my collection...sold off the cobbs and several other HOF'ers. Right now, i'm only collecting T206's with high eye appeal, but low technical grade. i've pretty much settled on this focus...keeps the buying and prices low.

i think you'll find yourself going back and forth, reselling and buying and changing focus. the only thing is to not lose focus...and varying your collecting style and pace will help you do that.

[jupin11]

I'm at about 200 right now. I had to hold up because law school got in the way. Anyway, I had a very basic approach. Twice a week, I would look at what was being offered on ebay for the coming week. For almost every single card that I needed/wanted, I would snipe a low ball offer (-10-20% of the cheapest sold on recent ebay listings). I won a couple every week and I was happy every time. This takes a little time and a little commitment but it will pay off.

[drdduet]

Once I got really serious and committed to taming the monster, I completed it in 2 years. My strategy was based on getting the more expensive cards out of the way first. After getting all the HOFers, I hit the Southern Leaguers, then I tackled the scarcer commons. I got my hands on a few large lots for good prices, so that helped out. Back then I also picked up the rare backs so that my set does include at least one of each back type as well.

I wouldn't recommend treating the task as a sprint, enjoy the journey.

[ethicsprof]

I'm with Darren---don't sprint; enjoy the journey.
I battled the Monster for around 25 years,spending the last 7 or so in singleminded pursuit. After such a long battle, the taming,as i define it,
was most invigorating.
Remember: the Monster wants you to quit. Don't listen to it!

all the best,
barry

[Zach Wheat]

David,

I took the Ted Z approach. I looked for opportunities to buy large lots of cards (100+ cards). However, I ended up with mutliple "doubles". Since I rarely sell cards once purchased (the Black Hole Theory of Card Collecting) I did not consider selling my doubles.

In this environment, perhaps there is a good opportunity to pick up some key HOF'ers. Whatever path you choose, enjoy!

Mich Wheat