For what it's worth.

[bn2cardz]

Originally Posted by shernan30

Honesty goes a long way. Explain to him the value you see and tell him what you would be willing to pay.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+1

Similar to what is seen on Pawn Stars (even if it is faked) they tell the person what the value may be sold retail and then offer a price lower explaining that they will have to go through the work to gain their money back.

If you are buying for your own collection offer what you are comfortable with, similar to what you would put in as your max bid. If you are buying for resale go about it with as much honesty as possible so they don't feel burned by you.

[vintagetoppsguy]

Originally Posted by bn2cardz

If you are buying for your own collection offer what you are comfortable with, similar to what you would put in as your max bid. If you are buying for resale go about it with as much honesty as possible so they don't feel burned by you.

Yes, agreed.

My repsonse above was based as if I were buying for resale. I usually offer about half what I think I can get. I may have to sit on it a while and have money tied up. If I were buying for my PC, I would probably offer in the 70% range of what I think it would be worth.

[jhs5120]

I was once in this scenario with several raw sets (some incomplete). I explained how I would sell them, how much it would cost to complete the incomplete ones and I gave them a fair estimate of what someone could make off of them with a little effort. Once we established how much they were worth (about $9,000), I offered $6,000.

I think we were both happy with it.

[bbcard1]

I think there are a few factors, but I agree that honesty is the best policy. I have had the opportunity to fleece folks before, but it is not in my DNA.

1) Is it something you are actively seeking, eager to buy and would put in your collection without any intent to resell? In this relatively rare case, I would be willing to pay as much as 90% of what I would expect to pay after scouring ebay, shows, Net 54, etc. If you are lucky, there will one or two cards in the collection like this. Why not? You were looking for them anyway and you get a little discount over what you would have paid.

2) Is it something your would like to have and is desirable to keep and could be immediately liquidated at or near retail. I would probably pay 65-75% of retail. Exceptionally high grade cards fall into this category.

3) Is if ok stuff, like 1950s stars and commons mix that is sellable, but has to be discounted? 35-50% is plenty.

4) the dregs…the stuff you really don't want and are hard to sell, I would figure at 25% or retail or less. You should get it at a price where at worst you can stick it on Net54, get an immediate sell, and make 20% off of any day of the week.

It's sounds complicated the the final percentage really depends on desirably and need and if you are reasonably familiar with the hobby isn't that difficult to figure out.

[SmokyBurgess]

Do unto others as you would have them do unto you.

Golden Rule (Matthew 7:12)

Pretty good advice.

[vintagetoppsguy]

Originally Posted by SmokyBurgess

Do unto others as you would have them do unto you.

Golden Rule (Matthew 7:12)

Pretty good advice.

Yup. Could be used in a lot of recent threads.

[6-4-3memorabilia]

I just had a similar experience. A person my Dad works with Father died recently at the age of 97, he had thousands upon thousands of cards. She doesn't know anything about them so she sent a few off to be graded. She had some decent items, bunch of T206's (commons) that were graded between 2's and 3's, a 68 Mantle, and a Ryan Rookie (only graded a 3) I bought 5 t206 cards from her all Beckett graded 3's for $30 each, gave her $125 for the Ryan, and $140 for the Mantle becket graded a 6, she has a ton of other stuff so I am going to buy most of what she has. I probably spent close to what they are worth but didn't want to rip the lady off since she does work with my Dad