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My research into this consists of one person, though, the dude who is selling me the safe.
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Successful transactions on Net54 with balltrash, greenmonster66; Peter_Spaeth; robw1959; Stetson_1883; boxcar18; Blackie |
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I'll just chip in again with my own discussions I had with a local security company this past year. As my prior comment read, if your primary goal is to reduce the chances of a successful burglary, then it's all about Steel thickness (gauge).
And it's the Steel gauge in 2 areas -- the Steel Plate in Door, and then also the Body of the Safe. (The Door Plate protects from bending attacks with crowbar/prybar, and the Body of the safe protects from cutting (blade and torch) attacks.) It's probably most important to figure out what your own needs are. If it's just to discourage folks with sticky fingers then super basic is fine. If you've got a collection where the world won't end if it disappears, then a safe around $1,000 with the most steel you can buy might be ok. If someone has a collection in the 6-figures though, boy I'd be investing in a serious safe if you're intending to keep it at home, meaning 10-gauge (lower number is better) thickness or better for the safe body and a 1/4" plate steel door plate. That's my only beef against Liberty, is that they are a little light on steel except for their one very top end model (The Presidential) which is a beast. Otherwise their safes top out at 12 or 11-gauge steel. I would throw another company out there for folks to consider -- Fort Knox. www.ftknox.com Top reputation in the industry, solid value, and at a slightly higher price point (2.5 - 4K for a sizeable safe), but they do not skimp on the materials. Highly customizable as well. All points made by other folks are awesome as well, including layering your security and keeping your trap shut
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| Private collector, always looking to buy great cards from the good folks on Net54. | WTB: '15 CJ Wagner & WaJo (PSA 2-3) | '33 Sport Kings Babe Ruth (PSA 4-5) | '52T Ed Mathews (PSA 4-5) | '47 VanPatrick Postcard of Bob Feller. T-206 Monster: 520/520 (PSA 4-6) Last edited by ZiggerZagger; 01-01-2018 at 09:09 PM. |
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Liberty safe. Period
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Last edited by Snapolit1; 01-01-2018 at 04:50 PM. |
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Typical flood coverage can cover other below ground items if claimed that sump pump failed or electric went out during a storm...
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Flood insurance covers your home's foundation elements and equipment that's necessary to support the structure (for example: furnace, water heaters, circuit breakers, etc.). It's important to note that some items in your basement are covered under building coverage (like a furnace, hot water heater and circuit breaker) and others are covered under contents coverage that must be purchased in addition to building coverage (for example, your washer and dryer, or your freezer and the food in it). The NFIP encourages people to purchase both building and contents coverage. Flood insurance does not cover basement improvements, such as finished walls, floors, ceilings or personal belongings that may be kept in a basement. For a complete list of what’s covered, view the Standard Flood Insurance Policy (SFIP) Forms. |
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__________________
Successful transactions on Net54 with balltrash, greenmonster66; Peter_Spaeth; robw1959; Stetson_1883; boxcar18; Blackie |
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Otherwise every time someone's basement flooded they would be seeing claims for rare stamp collections lost, rare cards washed away, comic books, etc. That's the reality of it. All of a sudden people's prized stuff would all be in the basement.
Of course if you live in an area with zero flood threat might be a non issue. Last edited by Snapolit1; 01-02-2018 at 03:25 PM. |
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