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Old 07-29-2004, 05:03 PM
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Default 1917 Ruth Update

Posted By: newguy76

Just wanted to show you guys how this was progressing with this dealer... I tried to play nice... but I have a feeling it might get ugly....

My 1st E-Mail:

I'm sorry, but I have consulted some professionals on this Card and
have many concerns that it is a fake and therefore is not worth the
amount of money I bid. I am withdrawing my bid and will not pay for it.

I will however, pay for it if you are willing to send it to a grader
and it comes back authentic. I would also pay for the costs of sending
it to a grader (as long as it came back authentic).

In fact, if it is a re-print, it is in violation of EBay policy in
terms of listings and actual cards. But I don't think we want to take
it there. I do not wish to get into a negative feedback war either.

I apologize wholeheartedly, especially if you also do not know that
this is a re-print/ counter-fit as well. I ask that you allow me to
retract my bid.

-Dave

His Response:

David,

I am confused here. You purchased the card, stated you were sending payment and then decided after speaking with someone else that the card is not authentic and now you don't want it?

Can you please tell me who the other professionals are that have concluded that this is not an authentic card? I would like to know how they can decifer autenticity of a card 87 years old without seening the card live.

Thanks and I look forward to your response.

Regards,

XXXXXXX


My 2nd Response:

XXXXXXXXXX,

These are the following reasons I the item is fake. Given to me by people who know their Cards like the back of their hands... I'm not naming names.

1) That particular type of "bulging" crease is what I consider a dead give-away of a fake: it occurs when person starts "aging" the card before the glue has dried, or maybe it for some other reason, but in any case you don't see that type of crease on thin-stock cards.

From Another:

2) Notice how that card got awfully dirty and creased but those corners managed to stay pretty sharp. Also, follow the ridge of the crease on the back of the card starting from the top of the card. Notice the how it buldges up slightly ? In real E135 cards aren't thick enough to cause that kind of effect.

And Another:

3)Collins McCarthy cards are sepia in color and tend to exhibit minute cracking in the surface of the front on lower condition cards. Does this card exhibit those characteristics?

I was completely ready to pay for the card until I received this information. Like I said I am more than willing to pay for it if you can prove the item is authentic and is an actual Collins-McCarthy e135 (from 1917). Get it graded, and if it comes back authentic, I will pay for the full price of the card, and in addition, the cost of getting it graded. If not, then the item does not live up to the actual title of the auction, and it is in violation of EBay policy.

Bottom line, I cannot pay for this card unless it is professionally graded. It's a minor inconvenience for you that won't cost you a dime... why aren't you willing to do it?

-Dave


Haven't heard back yet.... wonder if I will.... I'll continue to update.

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