Poll For Set Collectors

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Posted By: peter chao

If you are trying to complete a set, would you prefer the key cards to be in better condition than the common cards? Same condition as commons? Or it really doesn't matter what the condition of the key cards are?

By key cards I'm referring to highly desireable star and rookie cards. Key cards also refers to difficult to find commons and error cards.

Any particular reason for your choice?

Peter C.

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Posted By: Jeff Lichtman

Ok, I'll bite. Why on earth would one want to have the star cards in a set be of lesser condition than the commons? Because the collector is a masochist? Unless you have no choice due to financial concerns wouldn't you always want the best cards to be of the best condition?

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Posted By: Steve Murray

Here we go

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Posted By: Dave F

I think most people who are trying to complete a pre-war set anyway wouldn't be too choosy...most sets seem to be difficult enough without having to limit which Keeler card you can take in...would drive me crazy needing a single card for a set and passing on four that come up for auction because they arent the same grade as my commons...

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Posted By: peter chao

Steve, Jeff

If you have a pleasing looking commons (PSA 2-4) and you run into an affordable PSA 7 key card you might decide to bypass it simply for aesthetic reasons. It would be a reasonable decision if you wanted to display your collection at some point in time.

I've decided to end all posts with because it provides me protection from any serious criticism.

Peter C.

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Posted By: Andy

I'll give this one a go...

I'm glad one of your choices was that "it really doesn't matter what the condition of the key cards are" because that is right on for me. Key cards are, by definition, going to be more expensive than the commons, and if they are in great condition, well then I just can't afford them. So, to me, it doesn't make any difference what condition the card is in. As long as its real, then I like it and would be proud to have it fill a hole in my collection.

I like cards that show their age. I'd love to have a mint Cobby or Matty, but I have to be realistic. I'm not going to have one any time soon. So a beat to hell folded in half Cobby would suite me just fine.

Now, if it were just a question of what I would LIKE to have, then of course I'd like a mint one. But, to me, "it really doesn't matter".

Thanks,

Andy

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Posted By: JK

It depends on the set and your budget. When I was originally putting together the e93s, I wasnt so choosy but always anticipated upgrading the HOFers as I went along. The thing I didnt anticipate (since I really dislike spending money on commons) was that Ive also upgraded the commons because I want the set to have a consistent look. Ive now upgraded some of these cards as many as 4 or 5 times.

Im now trying to put together a much more difficult set. Im guessing I will generally have to collect the cards in whatever condition I can find them in.

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Posted By: Joe D.

I would buy whatever card I needed in the set -
and continually look to upgrade
(within my budget).

When I put together my T200 set -
I upgraded almost all cards once or twice (or more).

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Posted By: barrysloate

Peter- the advice I give collectors is to try to keep their set as consistent as possible. There is nothing wrong with a set that has cards that are in the 2-3 range, and one with cards in the 6-7 range looks quite nice. But I wouldn't mix a 7 with a 2.

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Posted By: Jeff Lichtman

Peter, I haven't run across many PSA 2-4 cards that looked better than 7s. Have you?

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Posted By: JK

Jeff,

In all fairness, I have several 1s-2s that look like they could pass for 7s (at least until you turn them over). I have decided against upgrading each of these cards on numerous occasions because the upgrade either didnt look as nice or couldnt be justified based on the cost compared to the cost of cards already owned. I have also owned an sgc 30 griffith that was just as nice as any of the cards shown below. I sold it after I upgraded to a 70 and then just recently bought the 30 back so I could downgrade the 70 - unfortunately, the 30 was lost in the mail and never got to me so Im "stuck" with the 70.

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Posted By: Joe D.

sometimes even an 'authentic' can look better than a PSA 7.

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Posted By: peter chao

Joe D.,

That's a beautiful blue portrait chase (without the blue).

Peter C.

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Posted By: Jeff Lichtman

Josh, while those fronts are great, the backs have paper loss. Unless you don't care about paper loss, when can a 2-4 look better than a 7? And I don't include times when Memory Lane re-submits to PSA...

Joe...you're killing me here...it's time to sell me that card.

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Posted By: Jerry Hrechka

When I build a set I go after the key cards first - IN ANY CONDITION. That's because of financial restraints. If I do get cards in the PSA7 to 9 range (Always by submitting raw cards) I down grade and trade for cards in the PSA3 to 6 range.
So I have cards ranging from PSA1 to PSA6 in my sets. My Horror of War Keys range from PSA1 to PSA6 and I still need only one of the Keys (No. 283).
Holding on 2 OJ's that could only grade AUTHENTIC on their best day. Looking for my third.
If any one is interested I have scans of all my Non Sports cards in the PSA Registry under the name WarHoundR69.

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Posted By: peter chao

In a way, that approach makes a lot of sense. Normally, the key cards in any set is more expensive than the other cards in the set. Not only that, it is likely that they will only get more expensive in the future.

So if you have a tight budget, go for the key cards in any condition.

Peter C.

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Posted By: Cobby33

I also have a PSA Auth that should be a 6, but isn't, because PSA doesn't do their due diligence in researching hand-cut issues, etc.

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Posted By: leon

Neither does SGC on many issues. I got back about 6 cards yesterday that are in AUT holders. I am sure they didn't know enough about them to feel comfortable giving them a numeric grade. Oh well.... I completely disagree with every grading company that gives a strip card a numeric grade without the caveat of "handcut". To me it's idiotic not to....but what do I know? As for the poll.....I will take what I can on the set(s) I collect and upgrade when I can....the first thing is to complete it. I am talking about D303's so I can't be too picky. I guess if it was t205 or t206 then I might feel differently....regards

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Posted By: Scott

Peter,

Good topic.

I collect sets based on all cards being the same grade.

I do that for a few reasons. The first is consistency in the caliber of card. Secondly is more for self policing reasons. Once I acquire a card, it's off the list and I don't need to look for it any more. I've found that when I'm constantly trying to upgrade, I've got too much money going out on cards and then I need to start selling the lesser graded cards and I'm never comforable in the selling mode. I also look at the population reports and see that there are enough in the grade in the set I'm putting together when I start a set. It also helps that I can focus on a few cards every month that are in the grade of the set I'm looking for instead of having tons of options and going in too many directions. This strategy has worked nicely for me and my card budget in assembling a 1933 Goudey set in PSA 4, a 1948 Leaf set in PSA 5 and my current endeavor, an e90-1 set in SGC40.

The only downside is that I sometimes go a few weeks without finding anything to buy. That's why I started a Boston Red Sox collection which helps fill in the dead times.

Just my thoughts.

Scott (ubiqty)

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Posted By: Jerry Hrechka

I try to work on 5 NonSports sets at any time plus my "R" Type set and the beater OJ's. Too much available at any given time to buy it all.

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Posted By: JK

Jeff - please note that I qualified my answer with "until you turn them over". You are correct, each card has a small amount of paperloss on the reverse (not quite sure why the donovan didnt get a 30 as its not much different than the others). To answer your question, generally, if I can get a card that looks like the ones above with a small amount of paperloss on the reverse, I will take them all day long. Im not too picky about the backs. Paperloss on the front drives me crazy though.

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Posted By: Rob

"Unless you don't care about paper loss, when can a 2-4 look better than a 7?"

The only time I can think this to be true is if registry is involved. If the focus is off on a 7 and makes the image look blurry, but the card graded a 2-4 is sharp but has a hairline crease, I'd rather have the 2-4.

just my opinion
Rob

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Posted By: peter chao

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder...also there is a lot to be said for uniformity. If your cards are all off-center left to right or right to left, then you have a beautifuly centered PSA 7, then it doesn't look right.

It's no different than if you had all PSA graded cards but however, you have 2 SGC graded cards. Your eye would say there's something wrong.

Peter C.