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  #1  
Old 10-29-2017, 07:28 AM
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Jason Greco
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Default Why have a card simply authenticated?

Other than a card which is clearly a disaster, why have a card authenticated rather than graded? Is it cheaper? Is it because the person submitting it for grade felt it could bring more money as authenticated rather than risk it being a 2 or 3?

I see some cards I am interested in which are only authenticated, but I am cautious of buying them. Should I be?
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****Southern League****
Old Mill (SL) PSA 3: 3/48
Old Mill (SL) PSA 4: 5/48
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Old 10-29-2017, 08:12 AM
Batpig Batpig is offline
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A lot of times an auth card is trimmed or otherwise altered. It can also be given to hand cut cards that were cut too much.
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Old 10-29-2017, 08:22 AM
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Jason Greco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Batpig View Post
A lot of times an auth card is trimmed or otherwise altered. It can also be given to hand cut cards that were cut too much.
That's a good point, and I like that PSA makes note of it on the label. SGC however, does not. I'm a novice with pre-war cards, and really just looking at T206's at the moment, so it's hard for me to tell.

Here is an example. To me, this looks like a card that would get a 2 or 3, assuming it has no wrinkles or creases, which as far as I can tell it doe not. Seems to be well centered, and the corners are slightly worn, which to me, would indicate it's not trimmed. There's nothing special about it, just an example that maybe I can learn from. What are your collective thoughts on this particular card .... things I should look for or indications of trimming or other flaws?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1910-T206-B...53.m1438.l2649
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****Southern League****
Old Mill (SL) PSA 3: 3/48
Old Mill (SL) PSA 4: 5/48
Hindu Brown: 1/34

****NY Highlanders Team Set****
Basic Team Set: 13/28
Master Team Set: 13/315
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  #4  
Old 10-29-2017, 08:58 AM
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Leon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greco827 View Post
That's a good point, and I like that PSA makes note of it on the label. SGC however, does not. I'm a novice with pre-war cards, and really just looking at T206's at the moment, so it's hard for me to tell.

Here is an example. To me, this looks like a card that would get a 2 or 3, assuming it has no wrinkles or creases, which as far as I can tell it doe not. Seems to be well centered, and the corners are slightly worn, which to me, would indicate it's not trimmed. There's nothing special about it, just an example that maybe I can learn from. What are your collective thoughts on this particular card .... things I should look for or indications of trimming or other flaws?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1910-T206-B...53.m1438.l2649
Once you look at more cards you will see things easier. To me, it looks like an obvious trim on top.
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Old 10-29-2017, 10:01 AM
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David Ru.dd Cycl.eback
 
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If a card is graded just authentic it's probably altered or in particularly bad shape (such as missing part).

The exceptions are with a particularly unusual/rare card or item that the company feels it can't assign a grade, and autographed cards, where people sometimes just want to know the card & autograph is genuine.

Last edited by drcy; 10-29-2017 at 10:15 AM.
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  #6  
Old 10-29-2017, 10:14 AM
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Sean Costello
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Cards are given the "authentic" grade when they don't qualify for a numeric grade (usually due to trimming or some other alteration). Here's one that I would like to have received a numeric grade, but it was hand cut and can only be given an Authentic. It looks like about a seven.

scan0007.jpg
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  #7  
Old 11-01-2017, 12:04 PM
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Jason, I assume that every eBay seller knows why his/her card is graded "A." So, if the reason is not apparent and not mentioned in the eBay listing, I ask the seller. I feel that most sellers will respond with an honest answer.
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Seeking very scarce/rare cards for my Sam Rice master collection, e.g., E210 York Caramel Type 2 (upgrade), 1931 W502, W504 (upgrade), W572 sepia, W573, W575-1 E. S. Rice version, 1922 Haffner's Bread, 1922 Keating Candy, 1922 Witmor Candy Type 2 (vertical back), 1926 Sports Co. of Am. with ad & blank backs. Also T216 Kotton "NGO" card of Hugh Jennings. Also 1917 Merchants Bakery & Weil Baking cards of WaJo.
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  #8  
Old 11-01-2017, 02:08 PM
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Robert Williams
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Usually trim or color touch is the culprit....I personally, have had "A" cards get numeric grades from another grader.
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  #9  
Old 11-01-2017, 02:45 PM
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I think any true collector is fine with a nice looking, very slightly trimmed example of a tough card, encapsulated in an "authentic" holder. Especially if the card is a scarce one. I am probably in the minority but I'd take a beautiful lightly trimmed card over one that looks like it went through a meat grinder, but grades.
If you are a set collector and run in to a card which may run four figures even as an SGC 10, you might be fine with an SGC A which is a great looking card with nice eye appeal but a tiny trim. At the very least it can be a nice placeholder until a gradable card comes along that fits the bill.
Just my 2 cents.
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  #10  
Old 11-01-2017, 03:03 PM
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Scott
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As a novice I purchased this at a show in an "authentic" holder. The guy selling it pitched me this whole story of how he just wanted it protected and that he chose to simply get it authenticated so people would know it was real. What he didn't tell me was that the card was almost definitely soaked and pressed and possibly trimmed. At the very least it's warped to the point of no return, upgradable, and wasn't worth what I paid. Lesson learned: authentic means tampered.
greenberg.jpg
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  #11  
Old 11-01-2017, 04:35 PM
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I would be in the minority, but I don't like the term "poor." I feel it puts a negative spin / vibe on the card. I request just an "Auth" grade if I feel the card could be deemed a poor. On a couple occasions I have bought a poor and crossed to an "auth: grade.
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