NonSports Forum

Net54baseball.com
Welcome to Net54baseball.com. These forums are devoted to both Pre- and Post- war baseball cards and vintage memorabilia, as well as other sports. There is a separate section for Buying, Selling and Trading - the B/S/T area!! If you write anything concerning a person or company your full name needs to be in your post or obtainable from it. . Contact the moderator at leon@net54baseball.com should you have any questions or concerns. When you click on links to eBay on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network. Enjoy!
Net54baseball.com
Net54baseball.com
ebay GSB
T206s on eBay
Babe Ruth Cards on eBay
t206 Ty Cobb on eBay
Ty Cobb Cards on eBay
Lou Gehrig Cards on eBay
Baseball T201-T217 on eBay
Baseball E90-E107 on eBay
T205 Cards on eBay
Baseball Postcards on eBay
Goudey Cards on eBay
Baseball Memorabilia on eBay
Baseball Exhibit Cards on eBay
Baseball Strip Cards on eBay
Baseball Baking Cards on eBay
Sporting News Cards on eBay
Play Ball Cards on eBay
Joe DiMaggio Cards on eBay
Mickey Mantle Cards on eBay
Bowman 1951-1955 on eBay
Football Cards on eBay

Go Back   Net54baseball.com Forums > Net54baseball Main Forum - WWII & Older Baseball Cards > Net54baseball Vintage (WWII & Older) Baseball Cards & New Member Introductions

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-29-2016, 06:44 AM
KMayUSA6060's Avatar
KMayUSA6060 KMayUSA6060 is offline
Kyle May
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 1,895
Default Approaching The Monster - T206

As I breakdown my collection and the goals I have for it, I'm looking at starting the chase of The Monster - 520 T206 set. I'm looking for some input on my approach.

Acquisition Strategy
Target 50+/- cards per year, for 10 years. Create a spreadsheet with estimated expenses per card, and of the 50 cards per year, acquire about 37-38 commons, and 13-12 uncommons/HoFers/important cards. Thoughts?

Grade
Not too concerned about corners. I'm more focused on the surface. 1-2 will work for the commons. SGC 1-3 for the important cards/HoFers, as long as the 1 is under-graded. Sound about right for a budget?

Backs
I don't think the backs are too important to me. I'm just going to target the best price I can find for each card. For those of you who have attempted/completed this set, would you recommend targeting a certain back, or does completing this set with a budget negate the importance of the backs?

Storage
Breaking it down, I want to put the commons in a binder, and the uncommons/important/HoFers in slabs. Thoughts?

Marketplace
Where is the best, most trustworthy place to buy raw T206?


Are there any other factors I'm overlooking? Thank you in advance for any and all advice.
__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors

- Hall of Famers
Progress: 318/340 (93.53%)

- Grover Hartley PC
Needs: T207 Anonymous Factory 25 Back, 1914 New York Evening Sun Supplements, 1917 D328 Weil Baking Co., and (possibly) 1917 Merchant's Bakery

- Jim Thome PC

- Cleveland Indians Franchise Hall of Fame
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-29-2016, 06:54 AM
clydepepper's Avatar
clydepepper clydepepper is offline
Raymond 'Robbie' Culpepper
Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Columbus, GA
Posts: 6,931
Default

I'll put in my 2 cents worth:

Acquisition Strategy
Target 50+/- cards per year, for 10 years. Create a spreadsheet with estimated expenses per card, and of the 50 cards per year, acquire about 37-38 commons, and 13-12 uncommons/HoFers/important cards. Thoughts?
Sticking with anything for 10 years is a goal in itself.


Grade
Not too concerned about corners. I'm more focused on the surface. 1-2 will work for the commons. SGC 1-3 for the important cards/HoFers, as long as the 1 is under-graded. Sound about right for a budget?
Personally, I hate paper loss ; try not to depend on under-graded cards.


BacksI don't think the backs are too important to me. I'm just going to target the best price I can find for each card. For those of you who have attempted/completed this set, would you recommend targeting a certain back, or does completing this set with a budget negate the importance of the backs?
As many board members will attest, there is a lot to like about T206 backs and a lot of hidden value, so don't just bypass this.


Storage
Breaking it down, I want to put the commons in a binder, and the uncommons/important/HoFers in slabs. Thoughts?
Like anything else you want to preserve, keep away from direct sunlight.


MarketplaceWhere is the best, most trustworthy place to buy raw T206?
Our own BST for sure!


Good Luck!
__________________
.
"A life is not important except in the impact it has on others lives" - Jackie Robinson

“If you have a chance to make life better for others and fail to do so, you are wasting your time on this earth.”- Roberto Clemente
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-29-2016, 06:57 AM
Bpm0014's Avatar
Bpm0014 Bpm0014 is offline
Brendan Mullen
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 2,847
Default

Best place to buy is here for sure...
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-29-2016, 07:34 AM
KMayUSA6060's Avatar
KMayUSA6060 KMayUSA6060 is offline
Kyle May
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 1,895
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by clydepepper View Post
I'll put in my 2 cents worth:

MarketplaceWhere is the best, most trustworthy place to buy raw T206?
Our own BST for sure!

Good Luck!
Thank you very much for your 2 cents. You and Brendan each said the best place to buy is here.

One question I have about buying here...

Is it best to have one major "The Monster Chase" thread to garner more popularity/attention, or multiple threads depending on which individual cards I'm focusing on?
__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors

- Hall of Famers
Progress: 318/340 (93.53%)

- Grover Hartley PC
Needs: T207 Anonymous Factory 25 Back, 1914 New York Evening Sun Supplements, 1917 D328 Weil Baking Co., and (possibly) 1917 Merchant's Bakery

- Jim Thome PC

- Cleveland Indians Franchise Hall of Fame
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-29-2016, 09:16 AM
Cozumeleno Cozumeleno is offline
An$on
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 943
Default

Not aware of your budget, so it's hard to say how many cards is a reasonable number per year.

Regarding the backs, it's all about what is important to you. Would you rather finish the set first or take your time and acquire rarer backs? Neither is wrong, but it will obviously affect your budget. I got to 520 first without regard to back and have been upgrading/diversifying backs over the past year. I probably had about 50 of the rarer backs (PB, Sovereign, Overprint, Old Mill) when I completed the set and am now up to 125 or so.

My cards are in a binder because that is my preference. But I also have a lower-grade set (P-VG). If you are building a higher-grade set, I would use toploaders. For the expensive cards, I recommend buying them graded or buying them raw from a dependable seller and slabbing them.

The only real piece of advice I have is to focus on bargains and not types of cards. I focused on only commons until I got about 3/4 of the way through and passed up some good deals along the way on HOFs/SLs. If I did it again, I'd focus more on getting the best deals instead of just doing all commons first. You'll save yourself some headaches along the way.

Best of luck!

Quote:
Originally Posted by KMayUSA6060 View Post
As I breakdown my collection and the goals I have for it, I'm looking at starting the chase of The Monster - 520 T206 set. I'm looking for some input on my approach.

Acquisition Strategy
Target 50+/- cards per year, for 10 years. Create a spreadsheet with estimated expenses per card, and of the 50 cards per year, acquire about 37-38 commons, and 13-12 uncommons/HoFers/important cards. Thoughts?

Grade
Not too concerned about corners. I'm more focused on the surface. 1-2 will work for the commons. SGC 1-3 for the important cards/HoFers, as long as the 1 is under-graded. Sound about right for a budget?

Backs
I don't think the backs are too important to me. I'm just going to target the best price I can find for each card. For those of you who have attempted/completed this set, would you recommend targeting a certain back, or does completing this set with a budget negate the importance of the backs?

Storage
Breaking it down, I want to put the commons in a binder, and the uncommons/important/HoFers in slabs. Thoughts?

Marketplace
Where is the best, most trustworthy place to buy raw T206?


Are there any other factors I'm overlooking? Thank you in advance for any and all advice.
__________________
T201 (50/50)
T205 (208/208)
T206 (520/520)
T207 (200/200)
E90-1 (118/121)
E90-3 (20/20)
E91A/B/C (85/99)
E93 (17/30)
E95 (12/25)
C59-61 (149/248)
N28/N29 (83/100)
W545 (158/200)
1901-02 Ogden Tabs (1,327/1,560)
1933-41 Goudey (265/478)
1934-36 Diamond Stars (53/108)
1939-41 Play Ball (368/473)

Complete: E47, E49, E50, E75, E76, E229, K4, N88, N91, R136, T29, T30, T38, T51, T53, T68, T73, T77, T118, T218, T220, T225, W512, W513, W542, W552, W565

Founder:
www.prewarcards.com
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-29-2016, 09:19 AM
mrvster mrvster is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4,294
Default Kmay....

you have a well planned approach! my suggestion have fun a buy what you can swing at the time!

a lot of purchases are "spur" of the moment....

email me anytime you need help


peace


johnny
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-29-2016, 09:22 AM
KMayUSA6060's Avatar
KMayUSA6060 KMayUSA6060 is offline
Kyle May
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 1,895
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrvster View Post
you have a well planned approach! my suggestion have fun a buy what you can swing at the time!

a lot of purchases are "spur" of the moment....

email me anytime you need help


peace


johnny
Email sent. Thank you, sir!
__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors

- Hall of Famers
Progress: 318/340 (93.53%)

- Grover Hartley PC
Needs: T207 Anonymous Factory 25 Back, 1914 New York Evening Sun Supplements, 1917 D328 Weil Baking Co., and (possibly) 1917 Merchant's Bakery

- Jim Thome PC

- Cleveland Indians Franchise Hall of Fame
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-29-2016, 09:32 AM
BruceinGa BruceinGa is offline
Bruce Fairchild
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Marietta, Ga
Posts: 753
Default

My strategy is similar to yours, although I haven't written it down. Maybe I will do that this afternoon.
Since this thread is about you strategy I won't go into mine too much.
Good luck with acquiring 50 a year, it should be obtainable.
I like sgc 60 (5) with good centering, more $$ but I'm particular.
I also like the different backs, just don't see me buying many at the grade I want.
As for storage. I want all slabbed cards. I plan to scan mine, front and back, keeping them in a binder.
Good luck, you're an inspiration.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-29-2016, 09:57 AM
KMayUSA6060's Avatar
KMayUSA6060 KMayUSA6060 is offline
Kyle May
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 1,895
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceinGa View Post
My strategy is similar to yours, although I haven't written it down. Maybe I will do that this afternoon.
Since this thread is about you strategy I won't go into mine too much.
Good luck with acquiring 50 a year, it should be obtainable.
I like sgc 60 (5) with good centering, more $$ but I'm particular.
I also like the different backs, just don't see me buying many at the grade I want.
As for storage. I want all slabbed cards. I plan to scan mine, front and back, keeping them in a binder.

Good luck, you're an inspiration.
The different backs is an interesting conundrum because of the look in binders. That's where my dilemma comes.

As far as keeping yours in binders, are you referring to the scans or the slabs?
__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors

- Hall of Famers
Progress: 318/340 (93.53%)

- Grover Hartley PC
Needs: T207 Anonymous Factory 25 Back, 1914 New York Evening Sun Supplements, 1917 D328 Weil Baking Co., and (possibly) 1917 Merchant's Bakery

- Jim Thome PC

- Cleveland Indians Franchise Hall of Fame
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 11-29-2016, 11:41 AM
BruceinGa BruceinGa is offline
Bruce Fairchild
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Marietta, Ga
Posts: 753
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by KMayUSA6060 View Post
As far as keeping yours in binders, are you referring to the scans or the slabs?
Scans. Someone posted here last week mentioning that they did that. I experimented gluing the front scan to the back scan, making a card. That took too much time. Now I think I'll scan front and back, put both in a file trimming that and inserting it in a page protector. I need to check out the available sizes for protectors.
For my slabs I use Sterilite 6 qt boxes with tops. They are available around here at Big Lots for $1.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 11-29-2016, 11:48 AM
KMayUSA6060's Avatar
KMayUSA6060 KMayUSA6060 is offline
Kyle May
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 1,895
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceinGa View Post
Scans. Someone posted here last week mentioning that they did that. I experimented gluing the front scan to the back scan, making a card. That took too much time. Now I think I'll scan front and back, put both in a file trimming that and inserting it in a page protector. I need to check out the available sizes for protectors.
For my slabs I use Sterilite 6 qt boxes with tops. They are available around here at Big Lots for $1.
Ah ok. Very nice.

I like the idea of the Sterilite boxes. I have seen that done before by a guy on YouTube and need to get some myself.
__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors

- Hall of Famers
Progress: 318/340 (93.53%)

- Grover Hartley PC
Needs: T207 Anonymous Factory 25 Back, 1914 New York Evening Sun Supplements, 1917 D328 Weil Baking Co., and (possibly) 1917 Merchant's Bakery

- Jim Thome PC

- Cleveland Indians Franchise Hall of Fame
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 11-29-2016, 11:52 AM
Luke's Avatar
Luke Luke is offline
Luke Lyon
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,937
Default

A lot of good advice already. I would add one thing. You should be aware that your wants may change as you get used to the set. I started with a pretty similar strategy as you and hit a wall about 175 cards in. I had won an auction for a nice VG Jeff Sweeney with Piedmont back at a really good price, but when it came in the mail I wasn't at all excited about it and didn't open it for like 3 weeks. I realized that I wasn't really into my original goals anymore, so I sold a bunch of the lower grade cards and re-focused.

Nowadays I am a back collector and I don't really plan to ever finish the set. As long as I enjoy each and every card I pick up, I am happy.

Not saying this or something similar will happen to you, but it might. You might start out collecting cards in poor-good but then win a few PSA 4s at good prices and realize you like them much better than your PSA 1s. Things like that can happen and your wants can change.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 11-29-2016, 11:55 AM
wolf441's Avatar
wolf441 wolf441 is offline
Steve Woe.lfel
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walpole, MA
Posts: 2,120
Default

I would advise to stick with graded cards. You have an admirable goal and I did something similar, but at some point or when you complete the set, you may find yourself wanting to sell. At that point, graded cards will, for the most part, sell for more than raw and you don't want to pay to have all of your raw cards graded. Let someone else pay that expense and buy them already slabbed. Best of luck!

The backs are fun as well. You can try to pick up at least one of each back (or at least the non-Uzit, Drums, etc... to start). Keep that as part of your checklist.

I liked to look for SGC cards that were graded lower because of things like back stamps, which technically drop the condition grade, but which I think really add to your collection. It's neat to see a stamp that tells a small story of what the original owner was doing over 100 years ago...

Best,

Steve
__________________
___________________
T206 Master Set:103/524
T206 HOFers: 22/76
T206 SLers: 11/48
T206 Back Run: 28/39

Desiderata

You are a child of the universe,
no less than the trees and the stars;
you have a right to be here.
And whether or not it is clear to you,
no doubt the universe is unfolding as it should.
With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams,
it is still a beautiful world.
Strive to be happy.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 11-29-2016, 12:14 PM
KMayUSA6060's Avatar
KMayUSA6060 KMayUSA6060 is offline
Kyle May
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 1,895
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by LukeLyon View Post
A lot of good advice already. I would add one thing. You should be aware that your wants may change as you get used to the set. I started with a pretty similar strategy as you and hit a wall about 175 cards in. I had won an auction for a nice VG Jeff Sweeney with Piedmont back at a really good price, but when it came in the mail I wasn't at all excited about it and didn't open it for like 3 weeks. I realized that I wasn't really into my original goals anymore, so I sold a bunch of the lower grade cards and re-focused.

Nowadays I am a back collector and I don't really plan to ever finish the set. As long as I enjoy each and every card I pick up, I am happy.

Not saying this or something similar will happen to you, but it might. You might start out collecting cards in poor-good but then win a few PSA 4s at good prices and realize you like them much better than your PSA 1s. Things like that can happen and your wants can change.
That's why I think I want to approach this with a 10-year mindset. That way I can still pick up some other cards, and hold the interest in completing the set.
__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors

- Hall of Famers
Progress: 318/340 (93.53%)

- Grover Hartley PC
Needs: T207 Anonymous Factory 25 Back, 1914 New York Evening Sun Supplements, 1917 D328 Weil Baking Co., and (possibly) 1917 Merchant's Bakery

- Jim Thome PC

- Cleveland Indians Franchise Hall of Fame
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 11-29-2016, 12:24 PM
Jobu's Avatar
Jobu Jobu is offline
Bry@n
member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: WI
Posts: 3,722
Default

I am not a set guy, but if you are starting fresh you might budget extra for years 1-2 and target HOFers. Prices on HOFers tend to rise more quickly than commons so it makes sense to get those first rather than last as the commons won't appreciate a ton. Also, not sure of your budget, but I like the idea suggested above for aiming to get one of each back type (factory #s included!) as you put together your set. Things like BL 460 and Brown Old Mill might never happen, but I still really enjoy having several different backs and I have never had anything tougher than a Carolina Brights.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 11-29-2016, 12:36 PM
drmondobueno's Avatar
drmondobueno drmondobueno is offline
Keith
ke.ith tem.ple
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Eastern sierras, Calif
Posts: 885
Default Hello, Kyle, and welcome to The Monster

I started chasing the set in earnest in 2012, buying lower grade commons and lots. (Buy in lots when you can). I had an unspoken goal to get a short set done in two years, and I did.

My focus shifted to the HOF cards and found I liked the assurance I had with graded cards. There are a lot of trimmed cards out there, which is fine because many of these cards look really nice. Unfortunately, a number of these were not presented as trimmed and I paid a price dealing with that. This is another reason to use the BST. You may run into a few issues but I can tell you the guys on this list are invested in the hobby and will treat you well.

And then I sprung for a red Cobb, SGC 60, beautiful registration, perfect centering. There went my budget. I put money into the HOF and scarcer cards and gave up upgrading my lower grade commons once I realized my budget was getting away from me. I got burned out, can you believe it!

So, take your time, stick to your budget and buy what you like. Cards will be there when you are ready for them!

Have fun! Oh yeah, get yerself into Frank's Monster thread if you have not already...

Keith
__________________
T206 154/518 second time around
R312 49/50
1962 Topps 598/598 super set 694/697
...whatever I want

Last edited by drmondobueno; 11-29-2016 at 12:37 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 11-29-2016, 12:36 PM
KMayUSA6060's Avatar
KMayUSA6060 KMayUSA6060 is offline
Kyle May
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 1,895
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jobu View Post
I am not a set guy, but if you are starting fresh you might budget extra for years 1-2 and target HOFers. Prices on HOFers tend to rise more quickly than commons so it makes sense to get those first rather than last as the commons won't appreciate a ton. Also, not sure of your budget, but I like the idea suggested above for aiming to get one of each back type (factory #s included!) as you put together your set. Things like BL 460 and Brown Old Mill might never happen, but I still really enjoy having several different backs and I have never had anything tougher than a Carolina Brights.
Yeah I definitely like that idea of the backs. I just wasn't sure if the uniform look was better or not.
__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors

- Hall of Famers
Progress: 318/340 (93.53%)

- Grover Hartley PC
Needs: T207 Anonymous Factory 25 Back, 1914 New York Evening Sun Supplements, 1917 D328 Weil Baking Co., and (possibly) 1917 Merchant's Bakery

- Jim Thome PC

- Cleveland Indians Franchise Hall of Fame
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 11-29-2016, 12:47 PM
KMayUSA6060's Avatar
KMayUSA6060 KMayUSA6060 is offline
Kyle May
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 1,895
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by drmondobueno View Post
I started chasing the set in earnest in 2012, buying lower grade commons and lots. (Buy in lots when you can). I had an unspoken goal to get a short set done in two years, and I did.

My focus shifted to the HOF cards and found I liked the assurance I had with graded cards. There are a lot of trimmed cards out there, which is fine because many of these cards look really nice. Unfortunately, a number of these were not presented as trimmed and I paid a price dealing with that. This is another reason to use the BST. You may run into a few issues but I can tell you the guys on this list are invested in the hobby and will treat you well.

And then I sprung for a red Cobb, SGC 60, beautiful registration, perfect centering. There went my budget. I put money into the HOF and scarcer cards and gave up upgrading my lower grade commons once I realized my budget was getting away from me. I got burned out, can you believe it!

So, take your time, stick to your budget and buy what you like. Cards will be there when you are ready for them!

Have fun! Oh yeah, get yerself into Frank's Monster thread if you have not already...

Keith
Keith -

Thank you very much for the advice. Are you suggesting to go with graded for the entire set?

Definitely going to get myself into Frank's Monster thread. I've been reading through that thread. Pretty impressive what some people have.
__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors

- Hall of Famers
Progress: 318/340 (93.53%)

- Grover Hartley PC
Needs: T207 Anonymous Factory 25 Back, 1914 New York Evening Sun Supplements, 1917 D328 Weil Baking Co., and (possibly) 1917 Merchant's Bakery

- Jim Thome PC

- Cleveland Indians Franchise Hall of Fame
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 11-29-2016, 12:50 PM
frankbmd's Avatar
frankbmd frankbmd is offline
Fr@nk Burke++
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Between the 1st tee and the 19th hole
Posts: 7,232
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jobu View Post
I am not a set guy, but if you are starting fresh you might budget extra for years 1-2 and target HOFers. Prices on HOFers tend to rise more quickly than commons so it makes sense to get those first rather than last as the commons won't appreciate a ton. Also, not sure of your budget, but I like the idea suggested above for aiming to get one of each back type (factory #s included!) as you put together your set. Things like BL 460 and Brown Old Mill might never happen, but I still really enjoy having several different backs and I have never had anything tougher than a Carolina Brights.
In the long run you may find that a ton of commons appreciating a little is just as good as a little "pile" of HOFers appreciating a ton, if you consider ROI on a percentage basis rather than dollars and cents per card.

If you are a budget conscious set minded collector, buy what you can at the "right" price when it becomes available. Passing up a great deal on a Snodgrass because he didn't make the HOF seems unwise.

It is also likely that, in ten years or less, whatever your master plan is now, it will change.
__________________
FRANK:BUR:KETT - RAUCOUS SPORTS CARD FORUM MEMBER AND MONSTER NUMBER FATHER.

GOOD FOR THE HOBBY AND THE FORUM WITH A VAULT IN AN UNDISCLOSED LOCATION FILLED WITH NON-FUNGIBLES


274/1000 Monster Number


Nearly*1000* successful B/S/T transactions completed in 2012-24.
Over 680 sales with satisfied Board members served.
If you want fries with your order, just speak up.
Thank you all.



Now nearly PQ.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 11-29-2016, 01:51 PM
nebboy's Avatar
nebboy nebboy is offline
John Hanssen
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 1,074
Default

I'm doing T205 set which is much easier but I knew it would be a long term 10 year type project so I got a lot of Hofs and SP cards first. And commons when the price was right. I know over time the harder cards would go up faster that commons and wanted to tackle that ASAP. If I changed my mind I could finish a HOF or similar subset. I'm just over half away, on schedule and have most of the harder cards bought.
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 11-29-2016, 02:04 PM
Bpm0014's Avatar
Bpm0014 Bpm0014 is offline
Brendan Mullen
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 2,847
Default

There is no right or wrong way. I suggest that you go for the 520-524. Simply buy a card, put it in the binder, and check it off the list! That's what I did. 8 years later, I have 504 in the binder and counting..... Good luck!
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 11-29-2016, 02:42 PM
wolf441's Avatar
wolf441 wolf441 is offline
Steve Woe.lfel
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walpole, MA
Posts: 2,120
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by frankbmd View Post
It is also likely that, in ten years or less, whatever your master plan is now, it will change.
As usual, Frank said it best. No matter what your "ten year goal" is, life has a way of saying...."not so fast".
__________________
___________________
T206 Master Set:103/524
T206 HOFers: 22/76
T206 SLers: 11/48
T206 Back Run: 28/39

Desiderata

You are a child of the universe,
no less than the trees and the stars;
you have a right to be here.
And whether or not it is clear to you,
no doubt the universe is unfolding as it should.
With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams,
it is still a beautiful world.
Strive to be happy.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 11-29-2016, 02:52 PM
KMayUSA6060's Avatar
KMayUSA6060 KMayUSA6060 is offline
Kyle May
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 1,895
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wolf441 View Post
As usual, Frank said it best. No matter what your "ten year goal" is, life has a way of saying...."not so fast".
Excellent Lee Corso reference.

You and others are right - this is so true.
__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors

- Hall of Famers
Progress: 318/340 (93.53%)

- Grover Hartley PC
Needs: T207 Anonymous Factory 25 Back, 1914 New York Evening Sun Supplements, 1917 D328 Weil Baking Co., and (possibly) 1917 Merchant's Bakery

- Jim Thome PC

- Cleveland Indians Franchise Hall of Fame
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 11-29-2016, 06:43 PM
drmondobueno's Avatar
drmondobueno drmondobueno is offline
Keith
ke.ith tem.ple
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Eastern sierras, Calif
Posts: 885
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by KMayUSA6060 View Post
Keith -

Thank you very much for the advice. Are you suggesting to go with graded for the entire set?

Definitely going to get myself into Frank's Monster thread. I've been reading through that thread. Pretty impressive what some people have.
I am saying a graded card gives you a collectible that is darn near a commodity, with a clearly definable market value. And the flip does a pretty good job of maintaining that condition. Some cards are museum worthy pieces of art and are an honor to own, even for a short period. And yeah, I did the Registry bit for a while, not just with T 206 but a nice T201 and Clemente collection. But I digress.

To be honest, the Monster cards I presently own are nearly all ungraded, warts and all, and are a joy to handle. I am also a fan of cards with backstamps and handwriting. Just something about a card that was well loved over the last hundred or so years. Something timeless about that.

I did not get caught up in a firm minimum condition, as I found, for example, I cared little for the southern league cards or cards with print defects. I bought cards I liked and could afford. Registration is everything for me. Thankfully I am not OCD so centering I could overlook on occasion.

Take your time, enjoy the ride.
__________________
T206 154/518 second time around
R312 49/50
1962 Topps 598/598 super set 694/697
...whatever I want

Last edited by drmondobueno; 11-29-2016 at 06:44 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 11-29-2016, 08:56 PM
Sean's Avatar
Sean Sean is offline
Sean Costello
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Woodland, California
Posts: 3,814
Default

Lots of good advice here. As a couple guys already mentioned, if you get a chance to get a big card, go for it. It may kill your budget for a while, but the commons will always be available. The big cards will go up quicker, so get them if you can, and it's fun to have a couple big cards as a "centerpiece" for your collection, even if your collection is still small.

And if you find yourself losing focus, step aside for a few months. You can come back to the cards when you're ready again. It happens to all of us at one time or another.

Good luck, and feel free to PM if you have questions.
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 11-30-2016, 12:40 AM
T206Collector's Avatar
T206Collector T206Collector is offline
Paul
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,581
Default

I encourage you to stay flexible with your approach. A rigid adherence to anything over 10 years is a challenge -- particularly when it's supposed to be a fun hobby. I've been collecting T206s for nearly 20 years now, and "completed" one set about 10 years in and am on the verge of doing it again -- I'm back up to 514, having sold off most of the first set back in 2007, but there is some overlap. My focus is still evolving, even this far in. And I even go through some months or years with little to no interest in T206s. When you give up, don't admit it; and when you're going strong don't think the fever will be consistent or last forever.

Remember, the Monster wants you to quit. Don't listen to it.
__________________
Galleries and Articles about T206 Player Autographs
www.SignedT206.com

www.instagram.com/signedT206/
@SignedT206

Last edited by T206Collector; 11-30-2016 at 12:42 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 11-30-2016, 04:14 AM
Bocabirdman's Avatar
Bocabirdman Bocabirdman is offline
Mike
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Rat Mouth
Posts: 3,158
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by frankbmd View Post
In the long run you may find that a ton of commons appreciating a little is just as good as a little "pile" of HOFers appreciating a ton, if you consider ROI on a percentage basis rather than dollars and cents per card.

If you are a budget conscious set minded collector, buy what you can at the "right" price when it becomes available. Passing up a great deal on a Snodgrass because he didn't make the HOF seems unwise.

It is also likely that, in ten years or less, whatever your master plan is now, it will change.
This is a very true statement. Do not forget that over the next ten years your budget/life will change considerably. Also, as you move closer to the end of the Monster, you will likely find ways to extend the journey. Upgrades, switching to slabs, back runs and Lord knows what else, will seem like a great idea when YOU think of them. The friendships that you develop, the inbound bubble mailer addiction, even sharing your acquisitions in Frank's thread, all will make your Monster Chase a satisfying, lifelong pursuit. Good Luck, my friend. Enjoy the ride.
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 12-02-2016, 06:49 AM
KMayUSA6060's Avatar
KMayUSA6060 KMayUSA6060 is offline
Kyle May
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 1,895
Default

Taking in everyone's advice, and morphing it to fit my restrictions as a younger, less-financially established collector, I have put together a pretty solid game-plan I think. When you crunch the numbers on approximately how expensive this set is, it truly becomes a life-long chase. I'm excited for that part. I'm not sure my fiancee of just over a week still wants to marry me (kidding, but she somewhat jokingly didn't like the end number I presented her with - and that was on the low end), but that's ok; she'll get over it.

I'm working on the T206 Cleveland team set first. I am at the very least going to knock out the commons/Flick and maybe Joss/Lajoie, but Cy Young might have to wait. I'm trying to knock out as many different and difficult/semi-difficult backs as possible.

Then my plan is to move to the horizontal cards. After that, I'll have to decide if I want to target another team (Louisville or St. Louis) or target backs.

Now, by taking people's advice, I'm also not limiting myself to these. If I see a deal that would be hard to pass up, I'm absolutely considering it. But it's a marathon, not a sprint, which is a saying I came up with and haven't heard before.

Thank you all, again, for your input and advice! I really enjoy being a new(er) member of the Net54 community, which is by far the best community I've come across in the hobby.
__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors

- Hall of Famers
Progress: 318/340 (93.53%)

- Grover Hartley PC
Needs: T207 Anonymous Factory 25 Back, 1914 New York Evening Sun Supplements, 1917 D328 Weil Baking Co., and (possibly) 1917 Merchant's Bakery

- Jim Thome PC

- Cleveland Indians Franchise Hall of Fame
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 12-02-2016, 07:57 AM
mrvster mrvster is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4,294
Default Kyle....

you have the right attitude and right approach!!

you will love the journey....

I love that you are looking at less condition more rarer back.....

some front combos with "common" backs are 1 of 1's or very limited in print....

the "rarer" backs" are so fun, even the "mid range backs ( hindu , pied 42's) are really fun....

try getting bargains on ebay......ones that are "buy it now" just listed....you can get rare cards worth over 1 k for pennies if you are lucky or quick enough.... Pete G and Bryan and others are a master of this....

email me, call, text, pm me......I will help with your journey...

but a lesson first.........ugh, yes....

please don't let money or greed ever fuel your passion......people are worth more than cardboard! we all get over- zealous (sometimes, even myself)....

remember, we are only "leasing" these things while we are on earth, you can't take it with you

but your legacy will live on, and how you treat each others...


Peace


Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 12-04-2016, 09:23 AM
KMayUSA6060's Avatar
KMayUSA6060 KMayUSA6060 is offline
Kyle May
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 1,895
Default

My fiancee and I got Chinese last night. I took this as a sign...

The Chinese Gods believe I can/will finish The Monster.

__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors

- Hall of Famers
Progress: 318/340 (93.53%)

- Grover Hartley PC
Needs: T207 Anonymous Factory 25 Back, 1914 New York Evening Sun Supplements, 1917 D328 Weil Baking Co., and (possibly) 1917 Merchant's Bakery

- Jim Thome PC

- Cleveland Indians Franchise Hall of Fame
Reply With Quote
  #31  
Old 12-04-2016, 10:00 AM
sandmountainslim's Avatar
sandmountainslim sandmountainslim is offline
Bill Potter
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Between Macon and Muscle Shoals
Posts: 417
Default

I just buy any T206 that I can afford and I like the looks of. Not scientific at all but it keeps me entertained.
__________________
Bill Potter
T206 Beater Collection currently at 51/524
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old 12-04-2016, 10:34 AM
Sean's Avatar
Sean Sean is offline
Sean Costello
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Woodland, California
Posts: 3,814
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by KMayUSA6060 View Post
My fiancee and I got Chinese last night. I took this as a sign...

The Chinese Gods believe I can/will finish The Monster.

What did the fortune cookie say?
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old 12-04-2016, 10:41 AM
KMayUSA6060's Avatar
KMayUSA6060 KMayUSA6060 is offline
Kyle May
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 1,895
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean View Post
What did the fortune cookie say?
What?
__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors

- Hall of Famers
Progress: 318/340 (93.53%)

- Grover Hartley PC
Needs: T207 Anonymous Factory 25 Back, 1914 New York Evening Sun Supplements, 1917 D328 Weil Baking Co., and (possibly) 1917 Merchant's Bakery

- Jim Thome PC

- Cleveland Indians Franchise Hall of Fame
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old 12-04-2016, 10:45 AM
frankbmd's Avatar
frankbmd frankbmd is offline
Fr@nk Burke++
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Between the 1st tee and the 19th hole
Posts: 7,232
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean View Post
What did the fortune cookie say?
Man who wears broad leaf is a proud member.
__________________
FRANK:BUR:KETT - RAUCOUS SPORTS CARD FORUM MEMBER AND MONSTER NUMBER FATHER.

GOOD FOR THE HOBBY AND THE FORUM WITH A VAULT IN AN UNDISCLOSED LOCATION FILLED WITH NON-FUNGIBLES


274/1000 Monster Number


Nearly*1000* successful B/S/T transactions completed in 2012-24.
Over 680 sales with satisfied Board members served.
If you want fries with your order, just speak up.
Thank you all.



Now nearly PQ.
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old 12-04-2016, 02:28 PM
Bocabirdman's Avatar
Bocabirdman Bocabirdman is offline
Mike
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Rat Mouth
Posts: 3,158
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by frankbmd View Post
Man who wears broad leaf is a proud member.
Funny...my last fortune cookie said, "He who wears a broad leaf is compensating for something.........".
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old 12-04-2016, 03:02 PM
Bocabirdman's Avatar
Bocabirdman Bocabirdman is offline
Mike
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Rat Mouth
Posts: 3,158
Default

The one before that read, "It doesn't matter if you have an American Beauty if you don't know how to Uzit.".
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old 12-04-2016, 04:16 PM
Joshchisox08's Avatar
Joshchisox08 Joshchisox08 is offline
J0$H B^ck!ey
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: C0nn3cticu+
Posts: 1,943
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by KMayUSA6060 View Post
As I breakdown my collection and the goals I have for it, I'm looking at starting the chase of The Monster - 520 T206 set. I'm looking for some input on my approach.

Acquisition Strategy
Target 50+/- cards per year, for 10 years. Create a spreadsheet with estimated expenses per card, and of the 50 cards per year, acquire about 37-38 commons, and 13-12 uncommons/HoFers/important cards. Thoughts?

Grade
Not too concerned about corners. I'm more focused on the surface. 1-2 will work for the commons. SGC 1-3 for the important cards/HoFers, as long as the 1 is under-graded. Sound about right for a budget?

Backs
I don't think the backs are too important to me. I'm just going to target the best price I can find for each card. For those of you who have attempted/completed this set, would you recommend targeting a certain back, or does completing this set with a budget negate the importance of the backs?

Storage
Breaking it down, I want to put the commons in a binder, and the uncommons/important/HoFers in slabs. Thoughts?

Marketplace
Where is the best, most trustworthy place to buy raw T206?


Are there any other factors I'm overlooking? Thank you in advance for any and all advice.
Kyle let me just say if you need a spreadsheet.... Look no further. I'd challenge anyone to come up with a better spreadsheet than I have. I've put an astronomic amount of work into the one I've created.

There's no set amount on what to get. Just start with cards that you like first. Browse listings if you see a card in a grade you like going for cheap get it while you can. Some cards/player fluctuate and become much more expensive throughout time. You can wind up wishing you got a card when you had the chance. Titus, Durham, Adkins, etc.



Quote:
I got to 520 first without regard to back and have been upgrading/diversifying backs over the past year. I probably had about 50 of the rarer backs (PB, Sovereign, Overprint, Old Mill) when I completed the set and am now up to 125 or so.
This was my mentality going into it. I have for the most part disregarded backs. But obviously sometimes trying to get one when it's in range of a low price. The grade has effected the numerical grade of the card purchased but I wound up with an example of a back that I hadn't previously owned.

I've also made some minor upgrades along the way when, quite simply, the chance arose. Same instance I found that I was able to purchase a card that I already had in better condition cheaply. Then sold the lower grade of the two.
__________________
429/524 Off of the monster 81%
49/76 HOF's 64%
18/20 Overlooked by Cooperstown 90%
22/39 Unique Backs 56%
80/86 Minors 93%
25/48 Southern Leaguers 52%
6/10 Billy Sullivan back run 60%

237PSA / 94 SGC / 98 RAW

Excel spreadsheets only $5
T3, T201, T202, T204, T205, T206, T207, 1914 CJ, 1915 CJ, Topps 1952-1979, and more!!!!

Checklists sold (20)

T205 8/208 3.8%

Last edited by Joshchisox08; 12-04-2016 at 04:21 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old 12-04-2016, 04:29 PM
Joshchisox08's Avatar
Joshchisox08 Joshchisox08 is offline
J0$H B^ck!ey
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: C0nn3cticu+
Posts: 1,943
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nebboy View Post
I'm doing T205 set which is much easier but I knew it would be a long term 10 year type project so I got a lot of Hofs and SP cards first. And commons when the price was right. I know over time the harder cards would go up faster that commons and wanted to tackle that ASAP. If I changed my mind I could finish a HOF or similar subset. I'm just over half away, on schedule and have most of the harder cards bought.
I would love to tackle that set someday. If I ever finish T206 I'm going after the gold borders for sure.
__________________
429/524 Off of the monster 81%
49/76 HOF's 64%
18/20 Overlooked by Cooperstown 90%
22/39 Unique Backs 56%
80/86 Minors 93%
25/48 Southern Leaguers 52%
6/10 Billy Sullivan back run 60%

237PSA / 94 SGC / 98 RAW

Excel spreadsheets only $5
T3, T201, T202, T204, T205, T206, T207, 1914 CJ, 1915 CJ, Topps 1952-1979, and more!!!!

Checklists sold (20)

T205 8/208 3.8%

Last edited by Joshchisox08; 12-04-2016 at 04:29 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old 12-04-2016, 05:12 PM
unamuzd1 unamuzd1 is offline
M0rrie Mu||ins
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 233
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by KMayUSA6060 View Post
I'm not sure my fiancee of just over a week still wants to marry me (kidding, but she somewhat jokingly didn't like the end number I presented her with - and that was on the low end), but that's ok; she'll get over it.
I think this is the only flaw I've seen in your approach so far.

You don't want your significant other to "get over" your passion, and you probably don't want to make it about the money (since, as you noted, your estimate will be low-end; prices on this set have steadily climbed, after all). These are little pieces of art and history; share them with her. Let her see your enthusiasm. Maybe she'll enjoy them. At the very least, she'll (hopefully) recognize that everyone has hobbies, and baseball cards are pretty harmless. And, in the case of t206, if you have to justify the spending, they're (a) very liquid, and (b) pretty steadily increasing in value, and not just for nice copies.

My wife really likes my t206s. Not as much as she likes her 1940 Play Balls, but she has her thing and I have mine.

Other than that, I'll just echo what others have said. Buy what you like, take time to appreciate your collection, and don't hesitate to ask questions. There is an absolutely ridiculous amount of knowledge on this board, and not just about t206.

Welcome to the addiction! And congrats on the engagement.
Reply With Quote
  #40  
Old 12-04-2016, 07:54 PM
KMayUSA6060's Avatar
KMayUSA6060 KMayUSA6060 is offline
Kyle May
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 1,895
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by unamuzd1 View Post
I think this is the only flaw I've seen in your approach so far.

You don't want your significant other to "get over" your passion, and you probably don't want to make it about the money (since, as you noted, your estimate will be low-end; prices on this set have steadily climbed, after all). These are little pieces of art and history; share them with her. Let her see your enthusiasm. Maybe she'll enjoy them. At the very least, she'll (hopefully) recognize that everyone has hobbies, and baseball cards are pretty harmless. And, in the case of t206, if you have to justify the spending, they're (a) very liquid, and (b) pretty steadily increasing in value, and not just for nice copies.

My wife really likes my t206s. Not as much as she likes her 1940 Play Balls, but she has her thing and I have mine.

Welcome to the addiction! And congrats on the engagement.
Thank you very much! She is actually very interested in the hobby; she doesn't collect herself but is very interested in gaining knowledge and learning about what I'm collecting. I shared the estimated expense to mess with her, but she's actually happy that I'm going after it. She likes the investment idea, and enjoys watching me collect. She actually went to the National with me this summer for 2 whole days, and enjoyed herself as much as a below-average-sports-fan-but-loves-her-then-boyfriend could.
__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors

- Hall of Famers
Progress: 318/340 (93.53%)

- Grover Hartley PC
Needs: T207 Anonymous Factory 25 Back, 1914 New York Evening Sun Supplements, 1917 D328 Weil Baking Co., and (possibly) 1917 Merchant's Bakery

- Jim Thome PC

- Cleveland Indians Franchise Hall of Fame
Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Approaching the 1952 Topps Set CamaroDMD Postwar Baseball Cards Forum (Pre-1980) 23 06-05-2013 09:07 PM
Spring training is approaching!!!!! Archive Net54baseball Vintage (WWII & Older) Baseball Cards & New Member Introductions 9 02-11-2008 12:41 AM
100 yr. anniversary approaching for some historic sets!! Archive Net54baseball Vintage (WWII & Older) Baseball Cards & New Member Introductions 4 01-09-2008 11:05 AM
Major league trading deadline approaching Archive Net54baseball Vintage (WWII & Older) Baseball Cards & New Member Introductions 2 07-17-2007 10:32 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:05 AM.


ebay GSB