Tips for a new seller to reduce risk of disputes with buyers?

[MarcHandelman]

Greetings -- I have been a buyer/collector of vintage cards for decades. But I have rarely been a seller -- particularly an online seller. Can anyone share some basic tips (or links to good posts) that help new online sellers reduce the risk of disputes with buyers? For example, the risk of shipping cards first and not receiving payment? As a new online seller, I don't have a track record of sales and reviews to rely on. I see a huge and impressive volume of transactions here on this amazing listerv, so I'm sure this knowledge is out there. With apologies if this has been discussed a million times before. Thanks in advance for anyone willing to share.

[D. Bergin]

Depends on the platform you're looking to sell on. Each has it's own pros and cons and etiquette.

[MarcHandelman]

Originally Posted by D. Bergin

Depends on the platform you're looking to sell on. Each has it's own pros and cons and etiquette.

That's the right question. I'm a regular on eBay, so imagine I'd consider that first. But I would also consider selling right here on Net54.

[nebboy]

Great communication has always been a key for selling here and EBay. Many here have been very successful. Do your pricing research and ask for references if needed. Be sure that the members here do a great job of sniffing out a less that stellar situation. I wish you well as your dip your toe into selling.

Many many past threads about people doing as you, that search button above is a wonderful thing a leads for countless hours of hobby insight. The collective knowledge of Net54 members is indeed impressive.

[MarcHandelman]

Originally Posted by nebboy

Great communication has always been a key for selling here and EBay. Many here have been very successful. Do your pricing research and ask for references if needed. Be sure that the members here do a great job of sniffing out a less that stellar situation. I wish you well as your dip your toe into selling.

Many many past threads about people doing as you, that search button above is a wonderful thing a leads for countless hours of hobby insight. The collective knowledge of Net54 members is indeed impressive.

Yes, the search function just led me to a couple of good threads. Thank you!

[Leon]

This is an informative thread so it's been moved to the front page.

I think communication is the biggest key to selling effectively and with little to no drama.
.

[LincolnVT]

I typically have a phone conversation with a seller before buying…get a feel for the person and decide terms over the phone and in writing. See if you have mutual friends / hobby contacts that can be used as a reference. Buyer sends money / check that clears before seller ships the cards (their choice how as long as they arrive in shown condition) and provides a tracking number.

[tiger8mush]

When selling on the b/s/t, post good scans (not blurry pics, or even worse no pics), and point out flaws that could be overlooked or don't appear in the scans.

Start with low dollar sales so the community starts to feel comfortable with you and builds trust.

Good luck!

[bnorth]

I prefer the least drama as possible transactions. I don't mind a question or two but if they ask several questions about condition and a grade guarantee chances are they WILL be trouble. Also those that always complain about getting screwed and only use regular paypal to protect themselves are usually the first to screw someone. Using regular PP isn't the problem it is the complaining about getting screwed.

I have sold some on here and for the most part you could't ask for better buyers/trading partners. The main problem I have run into is the one guy who posts they will take something then a day or two later asks if they can pay a week or so later that has turned into over a month before.

[Snapolit1]

For BST, learn how to post a scan. It's not that hard. And state a price, not some speech about how you might be willing to sell if someone made the right offer.

Some people post no price and no picture. And, remarkably, their stuff never sells.

If you say OBO here on eBay, be honestly open to a negotiation. Don't list something for $800 obo and then when someone offers $775 flat out reject it. If you want $800 just ask for it. OBO means I am open to moving off my asking price to some meaningful degree.

Don't mess with your scans. There are big sellers on ebay whose scans are clearly monkeyed with. Very obvious.

Avoid a lot of "appears undergraded" kind of stuff. Right now who the hell knows what undergraded.

If there is a delay in paying or shipping just reach out and letter the other side know. All anyone needs. "My wife just had an emergency surgery . . . hoping to get back to shipping next week." Done. If I go away for the weekend often time I will sell buyers it will be posted Monday.

I could go on and on. Sure we all can.

[Exhibitman]

Originally Posted by Leon

I think communication is the biggest key to selling effectively and with little to no drama.
.

That is the bedrock of all good selling on virtual platforms. Also, big, clean scans. I also like to try and pre-empt the cons, bottom-feeders and trolls with specific procedural notes in my descriptions:

OK, I've decided to make everything clear to everyone right up front by answering the main questions I have gotten on other listings before you ask them again:

--No, I am not interested in any offers unless I put in a Best Offer option. Please do not PM me asking for my "best price" or asking for an early end to the auction: the answer is "no". If you like the card and think the price is fair then bid on it; if you don't, just move along to a different card.

--I am well aware of what the market is for most anything I sell; trying to "educate" me on pricing is not a negotiation tool, it is just being a tool. Don't be a tool.

--I don't care if you think the card is overgraded, undergraded, or graded just right, Goldilocks. Opinions are like...you know the rest.

--The photos are part of the description. Learn them. Know them. Live them.

--I am not going to tell you my opinion of the card. If you are grown up enough to buy an expensive card then look at the nice big photos (usually 400 dpi scans), put on the big boy pants, and make your own decision. If that does not appeal to you, just move along to the next card.

--I do not know what PSA, SGC, BVG, CSG or any other TPG might grade it. If you want a graded card, then BUY ONE.

--I will not ship internationally except through the eBay Global Shipping Program. Look, I know it costs more than direct shipment but that's for my protection. There are many great, honest, trustworthy people outside the USA who would never dream of lying about not receiving an item, but there are some thieving pigs who lie about delivery and cheat hardworking sellers like me, so the good folks get the short end of things because of the scoundrels. Sorry.

--When you do contact me, a little basic courtesy is always appreciated and politely reciprocated; stupid messages are ignored and nasty messages are ignored and then mercilessly mocked on hobby chat boards. I am a big mocker (those of you who speak Yiddish will appreciate that one).

--No Partial Refunds! If your item is damaged or non-conforming, please contact me. We will work it out. If your plan is to renegotiate the sale after the fact, don't bid, because I don't play that.

--I don't do sales tax fraud or customs fraud so don't even ask. Taxes are the price we pay for civilization. Just pay your taxes.

--I combine shipping for purchases with an automatic discount rule. Good for you, sucks for me...

--If I don't receive payment within four days of the close of an auction, I will cancel the sale and block you from further bidding in my auctions, unless you contact me, and we make other arrangements. Sometimes you want to bid on stuff that closes a few days later and save some shipping costs, which is fine, just let me know. Otherwise, just man up and pay for what you purchased, player.

So, now that we're clear on that...

[sycks22]

Just please don't add "I'll take it trumps all negotiations" or "accepting offers". Two pet peeves.

[JustinD]

If we are talking eBay good luck.

Unless you have them all hand delivered by “made men” and follow any return blackmail with them waking up with the head of a prize horse, I fear the morons rule that roost.

Gave up on that several Presidents ago as a seller.

…although I must admit to loving Adam’s auction caveats.

[Gorditadogg]

Get the money before you ship the card.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[Rhotchkiss]

Consign to an auction house and press the “easy button”; the AH deals with all of that and you likely get a much wider audience.

[Exhibitman]

Originally Posted by Rhotchkiss

Consign to an auction house and press the “easy button”; the AH deals with all of that and you likely get a much wider audience.

Depends on what you are selling. Lots of dealers make a living breaking up AH lots and selling the cards at retail. If you have a Gehrig RC, sure, an AH is a great bet. At that level you could probably even get a piece of the BP to go with a zero commission. But a run of 1960s Topps cards in less than an 8, those get thrown into a big lot in an AH setting.

[swarmee]

Comc.com may be what you're looking for.

But now at the $500 level for raw cards on ebay, they all get sent to CSG to confirm they are what you listed them as. Once CSG signs off on them, the buyer can't return if you have no returns set. They have to deal with ebay instead.
And that's quickly going to include cards priced over $250 even if they're graded.

[nwobhm]

Ebay sales:

1) .99 start auction
2) Condition stated is always listed as poor
3) Clear front and back photos
4) 30 day returns
5) Ship within 2-3 days after receiving payment
6) Combined shipping available

[swarmee]

Originally Posted by nwobhm

Ebay sales:

1) .99 start auction
2) Condition stated is always listed as poor
3) Clear front and back photos
4) 30 day returns
5) Ship within 2-3 days after receiving payment
6) Combined shipping available

1) Maybe, but huge risk for someone with no selling history. Cards will be low in the search engine algorithm compared to COMC, Greg Morris, etc.
2) Nah, if you want to play that game, state "Judge condition for yourself based on images"
3) Yep.
4) Nope. Give buyers no returns and no reason for INADs with the answer to #2.
5) Fine. Use tracked mail, even the new eBay letter for inexpensive ones. Upsell to Priority mail for anything over $50.
6) Also fine.

[nwobhm]

Originally Posted by swarmee

1) Maybe, but huge risk for someone with no selling history. Cards will be low in the search engine algorithm compared to COMC, Greg Morris, etc.
2) Nah, if you want to play that game, state "Judge condition for yourself based on images"
3) Yep.
4) Nope. Give buyers no returns and no reason for INADs with the answer to #2.
5) Fine. Use tracked mail, even the new eBay letter for inexpensive ones. Upsell to Priority mail for anything over $50.
6) Also fine.

Savvy buyers will figure it out quickly. Understated condition will bring few returns too. GM has a following for a reason. Condition is usually correct or understated. On the occasion it isn't he graciously takes the return without complaint. Smart, honest business brings buyers.

[swarmee]

Marking every listing with "This card is in poor condition" is not honest.

[nwobhm]

Originally Posted by swarmee

Marking every listing with "This card is in poor condition" is not honest.

It's certainly not dishonest. It's an overly conservative grade that eliminates complaints and allows the maximum upside for buyers that can determine what the grade actually is.

Dishonest is the thousands of cards on ebay listed as NM/M when they clearly aren't. Those same sellers don't want to take returns either.....go figure....

[fusorcruiser]

Originally Posted by tiger8mush

When selling on the b/s/t, post good scans (not blurry pics, or even worse no pics), and point out flaws that could be overlooked or don't appear in the scans.

Start with low dollar sales so the community starts to feel comfortable with you and builds trust.

Good luck!

All very good points! Also, many other great suggestions within this thread.
My pet peeve, when buying on any platform, is when the seller only provides pics that are taken while their cards are in penny sleeves, binder pages, card savers or top loaders. I'm not too fussy and I do like mid grade to low grade cards but do prefer to see what I'm buying ahead of time and not be surprised when the mail comes later. Maybe it is just me but I like to see good pics showing the card's surface, edges, corners and and all of its flaws and not a shiny imperfection hiding reflection from a top loader.