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  #11  
Old 04-14-2017, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by swarmee View Post


On the flip side, I've bought many cards on COMC for 10% of what I have them listed for on COMC. Most of those I either bought in a liquidation "port" sale for 10-20% of the entire lot price so I have a lot of profit embedded, or I have picked them up when sellers run sales on their cards from 75-90% off. People have different strategies. I have no problem accepting half off offers for those cards.
I'll continue to keep an eye out but I don't believe I have ever seen reductions that low, but then again, I am solely looking at 52 Topps cards.

I did purchase my Feller card there for a very decent price, imo, but the majority of the time, the cards are priced so high I do even bother putting in an offer as I assume the seller will laugh at me.
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  #12  
Old 04-14-2017, 06:57 PM
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J0hn Raff3rty
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Yeah, the cheapest I seem to pick up 1952 Topps baseball for is $3-5 for uncreased cards. That's the thing about in-demand sets. When the top cards go on sale, they get sold quickly.

https://www.comc.com/Promotions/Sale,sp

Here is the sales page, sorted by percent off. Many of them are way overpriced and then heavily discounted, but some sellers run sales that are actually worth it. I'm at 40% off through Sunday right now. The flash guy that has "90%" off has some mid-grade 1953 Bowmans for $5-15 each now, which is probably reasonable.
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1910 Murad College Series ("No. __" on front variations) #4,5,11,14,23
1930s Phoebe Phelps Caramel Pennant of Georgia Tech
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  #13  
Old 04-14-2017, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by swarmee View Post
Yeah, the cheapest I seem to pick up 1952 Topps baseball for is $3-5 for uncreased cards. That's the thing about in-demand sets. When the top cards go on sale, they get sold quickly.

https://www.comc.com/Promotions/Sale,sp

Here is the sales page, sorted by percent off. Many of them are way overpriced and then heavily discounted, but some sellers run sales that are actually worth it. I'm at 40% off through Sunday right now. The flash guy that has "90%" off has some mid-grade 1953 Bowmans for $5-15 each now, which is probably reasonable.
Thanks John.

I was trying to filter or remove cards/dealers (Dean's) that I wasn't interested in but when I managed to do something, I got a whole bunch of reprints and those newer as like cards. Truth be told, I got frustrated after putting a couple cards in my cart, and logged off.

Searching through page after page is tiresome. I just wish there was a better way of downsizing/reducing and looking strictly at the cards I want to look at instead of all these reprints and anything else that remotely looks like a 52 Topps card.

Any tips on how to how to achieve that, if possible, would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
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  #14  
Old 04-14-2017, 07:28 PM
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https://www.comc.com/Cards/Baseball/...-_Base,sc,i100

Here's the direct link to the 1952 Topps baseball set. If you click on any card from the set you're interested in, and click the link at the top of the page for the set it's in, it will take you to only that set. The other way to do it is to use the menu bar on the left and click the "Baseball", then "1950s" and it will take you to only cards made in the 1950s.
I don't know how to eliminate Dean's cards from coming up in the search, but they're easy to ignore since the raw cards all have black backgrounds.
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Current Want to Buy/Trade for List:
1910 Murad College Series ("No. __" on front variations) #4,5,11,14,23
1930s Phoebe Phelps Caramel Pennant of Georgia Tech
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  #15  
Old 04-15-2017, 02:03 PM
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I guess I'm confused at the OP in a way. The 50 percent offers, in my opinion, is what it takes to start the conversation, and is basically like going to a card shop and making an offer on a card there. Most people are flexible and will come down on a price if the buyer shows he or she is serious.

Also, for me, I have cards on COMC that I'd gladly take 50 percent for, but others that I wouldn't go that low on. The site doesn't offer the option for setting the threshold on specific cards, it's a catch-all, and I would assume most sellers are like me in that the amount I'd move on any given card might be different depending on the card.

And there is different options for auto-accept and minimum offers, which again, would be a catch-all setting rather than specific to a single card.

What I really don't get for COMC sellers are the ones who do sell items on Ebay/Amazon, which nets them 80 percent of the sales price, but who reject offers at 80 percent of the price on COMC. That's happened to me many times, and it doesn't make sense. They're willing to give up the 20 percent if the sale is through Ebay/Amazon, but not with a collector through COMC? Seems a double-standard that benefits the big corporations of the world and sticks it to the little guy.
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  #16  
Old 04-15-2017, 02:29 PM
SMPEP SMPEP is offline
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Garth - at a card shop, you the buyer make a first offer. At COMC, the seller tells you the buyer how much of a discount they'll accept for an offer.

In other words - they tell you the buyer how much to offer.

It's completely dishonest to have a seller say, "Offer me $2" ... and then when you send him an offer that says "here's your $2 offer" .... he replies "Sorry I now want $4."

If you the seller wanted $4 ... you the seller had the option to say that when you specified how much of a discount you would accept. But you chose to say you would accept a $2 offer.

Bottom line - any seller who counters the offer they told you to make is dishonest. It's called bait and switch. I'm not a lawyer, but I seem to recall that's illegal (not just dishonest) in many cases.

Cheers,
Patrick
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Looking for 1923 W572s, especially Barbare, Duncan, Heilmann, Parkinson, Rapp, Rigney and Wambsganss.

Let me know what you have!
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  #17  
Old 04-15-2017, 02:35 PM
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Wrong, man. The seller is telling you which offers they'll CONSIDER, not auto-accept.
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Current Want to Buy/Trade for List:
1910 Murad College Series ("No. __" on front variations) #4,5,11,14,23
1930s Phoebe Phelps Caramel Pennant of Georgia Tech
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  #18  
Old 04-15-2017, 03:06 PM
AGuinness AGuinness is offline
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Patrick,

I'm with swarmee on this (who posted just after you). COMC sellers can set the minimum offer threshold, which is even described on the COMC Profiles and Options page. The auto-accept threshold is a completely different ballgame.

I'm not sure what seller told you what to offer, the way you phrase that seems to indicate something else going on than a typical COMC transaction (in particular since there is no way for users to directly correspond through the COMC interface). A seller on COMC isn't saying, "Offer me 50 percent and I'll accept it," through the setting, the seller is saying, "I'm only willing to consider offers at 50 percent of the ask price."

At a card shop or show, my experience certainly includes countless times when cards have been priced by the seller, I make an offer and the seller makes a counter offer. I don't see how COMC is operating any differently than this.

I'm not a lawyer either, but I think a bait and switch is when whatever you are buying are substituted by an inferior version of the product. In this case, I think that's very different, as a seller can't switch cards out that are involved in a potential sale on COMC.
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  #19  
Old 04-15-2017, 03:58 PM
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I think I'm getting your confusion, Patrick.

If you make an offer on a card that is listed for $50 but ON SALE for $20, it will say "An offer of $20 will be immediately accepted." Because that's already the price of the card. You can't offer any lower because the card is already more than half off list price. When you make an offer for $20, it automatically processes the offer and the card shows up in your inventory.

However, if you make an offer on cards that are not on sale, the seller has the option of: 1) Not accepting any offers, 2) Auto-Accepting offers up to 50% off, or 3) Considering offers up to 50% off. Each sellers sets their own settings for those options.
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Current Want to Buy/Trade for List:
1910 Murad College Series ("No. __" on front variations) #4,5,11,14,23
1930s Phoebe Phelps Caramel Pennant of Georgia Tech
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  #20  
Old 04-15-2017, 07:21 PM
SMPEP SMPEP is offline
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No confusion. You as a seller told COMC what offers you'll take. YOU decided that. Not me.

So you can't tell me (the buyer) to offer you $2, and then after I give you the offer you told me to give you in the first place, turn around and tell me now to offer you $4. I'm never going to accept that offer because you were just dishonest with me. You could have chosen to tell me the offer you wanted. But you lied and gave an amount you won't accept. If any of us was at a card show and a dealer told you to offer $2, and then after you did, turned it down and said he wanted $4 - every one of us would leave the table as fast as possible. Both of you, Garth and John, included

Now if you want to be an honest and ethical seller on COMC - don't counter an offer or don't take any offers and just price things as you wish.

But even if you choose to disagree, I just solved the problem by closing my COMC account.

Given the seller's behavior and pricing, COMC just isn't a value proposition as a buyer.

Cheers,
Patrick
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Looking for 1923 W572s, especially Barbare, Duncan, Heilmann, Parkinson, Rapp, Rigney and Wambsganss.

Let me know what you have!
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