NonSports Forum

Net54baseball.com
Welcome to Net54baseball.com. These forums are devoted to both Pre- and Post- war baseball cards and vintage memorabilia, as well as other sports. There is a separate section for Buying, Selling and Trading - the B/S/T area!! If you give an opinion of a person or company your full name needs to be in your post. Contact the moderator at leon@net54baseball.com should you have any questions or concerns. Enjoy!
Net54baseball.com
Net54baseball.com
ebay GSB

Go Back   Net54baseball.com Forums > Net54baseball Main Forum - WWII & Older Baseball Cards > Net54baseball Vintage (WWII & Older) Baseball Cards & New Member Introductions

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #41  
Old 08-05-2016, 06:46 PM
ullmandds's Avatar
ullmandds ullmandds is offline
pete ullman
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: saint paul, mn
Posts: 7,445
Default

SGC's holders look better...PSA's are more sturdy.

SGC has definitely been more consistent over time...PSA has decided to change their standards over the years.

It used to be that more pre WWII collectors preferred SGC...but due to the "registry" and all the other puffery PSA promotes...PSA has become the preferred grading co. overall.

In most cases...PSA cards bring more $$$ than SGC.

PSA's customer service kinda sucks...SGC's is a little better.

They both have made plenty of mistakes.
Reply With Quote
  #42  
Old 11-09-2017, 04:36 PM
Dippydub Dippydub is offline
member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 2
Default

Hey everyone, new to this and thought this might be a good thread to ask the question, since i can't even seem to figure out how to start a new thread!

I'm new to grading and looking a different services (PSA SGC, BGS). What i'm confused about is how you pay for the "level", If you don't know the value of a card.

Lets assume i going with PSA, here are my questions for them:

1. There are a lot of fakes as well as reprints. If the card appears to be in great condition (i.e. grade 7+) how do you submit the value of the card when you arenít even sure if itís even a legitimate card? (That's the whole point in sending it in).

2. If you submit a rough estimate of, say grade 8 for example, and put a value down of $1500, which costs you $45 to submit, but the card comes back graded as a 9+ and is actually valued at $6k, would you get charged the higher fee of $250, which is what it would have cost to submit a card at that value tier? Subsequently if it grades out lower or as a fake/reprint, would you get charged the lowest fee of $18?

Iím trying to understand how spending about $200 getting two cards graded, that could turn out to be a fake or reprint, would be worth it if you donít get a reduced cost.


Sorry for the long post. Any info is GREATLY appreciated.
Reply With Quote
  #43  
Old 11-09-2017, 04:41 PM
bnorth's Avatar
bnorth bnorth is offline
Ben North
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 3,878
Default

The price you use when submitting the card is the raw replacement value. At least that is what I do.
__________________
T210 Series 3 Ft Worth, looking for low end examples and especially ones with a Y shaped hole punch. I also have some extra T210's for trade.
Reply With Quote
  #44  
Old 11-09-2017, 04:53 PM
x2drich2000 x2drich2000 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,087
Default

Hello Dibbydub,

First off, welcome to the board! You've found a great place to ask questions. If you are not sure if a prewar card is authentic or not, I would first suggest just posting a scan of the card here. You'll get good feedback and could save yourself quite a few bucks. As far as what level to submit the card under, I would underestimate what you think the card will grade at, especially since this is your first time submitting. Think of it more as what you would want to replace the card. If you get lucky enough to get a higher grade than expected and the value increases exponentially as a result, you should be happy to pay the higher fee if they charge you for it. Along the same lines, be happy when you pay more taxes, it just means you made more money.

DJ
__________________
Current Wantlist:
E93 - Cobb
E92 Nadja - Bemis, Bescher, Bridwell, Cobb, Crawford, Donovan, Doolan, Doyle (with bat), Evers, Kleinow, Knight, Lobert, Mathewson, McGraw, Tinker, Wagner (both), Zimmerman
W554 - Anyone with any red backstamp, Fonseca, Klein, Rommel
E/T Young Backrun - Need E90-1, E92 black Crofts Candy, E92 Dockman, E101, E105, T216 (all versions)
E92 Red Crofts - Anyone especially Barry, Davis, Shean, and Evers
Reply With Quote
  #45  
Old 11-09-2017, 05:15 PM
vintagetoppsguy's Avatar
vintagetoppsguy vintagetoppsguy is offline
D@v!d J@m3s
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Richmond, TX
Posts: 4,378
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by x2drich2000 View Post
If you are not sure if a prewar card is authentic or not, I would first suggest just posting a scan of the card here.
Yes, this.

And if it's a postwar card, just post on the postwar side for opinions.
Reply With Quote
  #46  
Old 11-09-2017, 05:19 PM
Aquarian Sports Cards Aquarian Sports Cards is offline
Scott Russell
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,485
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dippydub View Post
Hey everyone, new to this and thought this might be a good thread to ask the question, since i can't even seem to figure out how to start a new thread!

I'm new to grading and looking a different services (PSA SGC, BGS). What i'm confused about is how you pay for the "level", If you don't know the value of a card.

Lets assume i going with PSA, here are my questions for them:

1. There are a lot of fakes as well as reprints. If the card appears to be in great condition (i.e. grade 7+) how do you submit the value of the card when you arenít even sure if itís even a legitimate card? (That's the whole point in sending it in).

2. If you submit a rough estimate of, say grade 8 for example, and put a value down of $1500, which costs you $45 to submit, but the card comes back graded as a 9+ and is actually valued at $6k, would you get charged the higher fee of $250, which is what it would have cost to submit a card at that value tier? Subsequently if it grades out lower or as a fake/reprint, would you get charged the lowest fee of $18?

Iím trying to understand how spending about $200 getting two cards graded, that could turn out to be a fake or reprint, would be worth it if you donít get a reduced cost.


Sorry for the long post. Any info is GREATLY appreciated.
People misunderstand this subject a LOT. You are supposed to be declaring the amount you would want to be made whole if the card were lost or somehow damaged. This declaration is for insurance purposes when in the possession of PSA.

Mind you if you radically under-declare you will get contacted explaining that you can't circumvent their fees that way, but why would you want to take that risk in the first place.

What you AREN'T trying to do is predict the future value after grading.
__________________
Great experience buying from edjs and mybuddyinc. Check out my ebay store, weird, eclectic, accurate, and reasonable! http://stores.ebay.com/Aquarian-Sports-Cards Also check out http://www.birminghamauctioneers.com
Reply With Quote
  #47  
Old 11-09-2017, 05:53 PM
robw1959 robw1959 is offline
Rob
Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 300
Default

Just crack them out and send them back to SGC with the original broken holder and have them reholder it for you. That way you get the original grades back and end up only paying $5 per card plus shipping. I've had the same experiences with both companies, and have done that a bunch of times with no issues whatsoever on the part of either company. I always got my original grade back in a new holder with no questions asked.
Reply With Quote
  #48  
Old 11-10-2017, 04:56 AM
toledo_mudhen's Avatar
toledo_mudhen toledo_mudhen is offline
Lonnie Nagel
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: South Texas (on the beach)
Posts: 374
Default

Having always been a SGC kinda guy - I have lots of crossover from PSA to SGC experience. I have always sent cards in original slab and have set "minimum" requirements for crossover grade. Over the course of several years I would say my crossover from PSA to SGC has been somewhere around a 70% success rate.

Over the last year or so I have determined that PSA cards with the "Hologram" slabs (frontside PSA Holo on Flip) have done better than 70% (maybe around 90ish percent)

Just got these back this week from SGC -

This one was submitted as cross from PSA 7 (1st gen holo on flip) to minimum SGC 84. Result was "Did not Meet Minimum" (crap - still scratchin my head a bit on this one)
!005 Gilliam PSA 7 Obverse


This one was submitted as cross from PSA 7 (1st gen holo on flip) to minimum SGC 84
!010 Keegan 84


This one was submitted as cross from BGS 7 to minimum SGC 86 (actually thought it had shot at 88)
!071 Gomez 86


This one was submitted as cross from PSA 7 (1st gen PSA Holo on flip) to minimum SGC 84 (wasn't real sure it would meet minimum when sent)
!166 Bauer 84


This one was submitted as cross from PSA 8 (1st gen PSA Holo on flip) to minimum SGC 88 (really thought this one had legit shot at a 92)
!204 Smith PSA 8 Obverse

!204 Smith 88
__________________
toledo_mudhen
Lonnie Nagel
Reply With Quote
  #49  
Old 11-10-2017, 08:26 AM
swarmee's Avatar
swarmee swarmee is offline
J0hn Raff3rty
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Niceville FL
Posts: 2,114
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by robw1959 View Post
Just crack them out and send them back to SGC with the original broken holder and have them reholder it for you. That way you get the original grades back and end up only paying $5 per card plus shipping. I've had the same experiences with both companies, and have done that a bunch of times with no issues whatsoever on the part of either company. I always got my original grade back in a new holder with no questions asked.
This seems like a major liability. What's to stop you from sending in a raw VG card with a VG-EX+ label and asking them to "reholder" it for you. Seems ripe for fraud.
__________________
--
Current Want to Buy/Trade for List:
1910 Murad College Series: NONE Completed Master Set!
1930s Phoebe Phelps Caramel Pennant of Georgia Tech
https://www.comc.com/Users/mjohnatgt,sh,i100 55% off sale from November 6-16th.
Reply With Quote
  #50  
Old 12-06-2017, 04:45 AM
Dippydub Dippydub is offline
member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 2
Default

Thank you to everyone's help. I understand the process now. Just wish they explained it as well as you guys did on their websites!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
psa, sgc



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
GAI grades versus PSA/SGC Brianruns10 Postwar Baseball Cards Forum (Pre-1980) 8 09-17-2015 03:05 PM
poor versus authentic darwinbulldog Net54baseball Vintage (WWII & Older) Baseball Cards & New Member Introductions 3 07-23-2012 10:38 PM
Quality versus Quantity Archive Net54baseball Vintage (WWII & Older) Baseball Cards & New Member Introductions 7 01-02-2009 11:47 AM
original goudeys versus reprints Archive Net54baseball Vintage (WWII & Older) Baseball Cards & New Member Introductions 8 02-03-2004 11:09 PM
1954 SI Versus Reprint Archive Net54baseball Vintage (WWII & Older) Baseball Cards & New Member Introductions 7 12-01-2002 03:19 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:40 PM.


ebay GSB