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  #1  
Old 02-26-2014, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I Only Smoke 4 the Cards View Post
No idea why but it is a double standard. Personally, I don't have a problem with altered cards as long as they are sold as such.
Alex,

I have no problem with people selling, when properly advertised, altered cards, and agree with you regarding them being sold as such. As a matter of fact, I purchased a trimmed T206 earlier today and was quite grateful for the seller following through on the transaction.

In some cases, the restoration makes the particular issue look remarkably better. What I take issue with is the nonchalant soaking of cards by a great many people who do not disclose this when selling the card.

I may be wrong here...however...do not remember many auctions that state, "hey, this used to have XXX on it, but I soaked the card and now it's gone."

Just my two cents...and please know that I am not attacking you, personally.

Best,

Eric
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  #2  
Old 02-26-2014, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric72 View Post
Alex,

I have no problem with people selling, when properly advertised, altered cards, and agree with you regarding them being sold as such. As a matter of fact, I purchased a trimmed T206 earlier today and was quite grateful for the seller following through on the transaction.

In some cases, the restoration makes the particular issue look remarkably better. What I take issue with is the nonchalant soaking of cards by a great many people who do not disclose this when selling the card.

I may be wrong here...however...do not remember many auctions that state, "hey, this used to have XXX on it, but I soaked the card and now it's gone."

Just my two cents...and please know that I am not attacking you, personally.

Best,

Eric
No offense taken. I think we have had this conversation before on the board and people seem to have strong opinions on both sides.
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  #3  
Old 12-19-2014, 07:54 AM
1952boyntoncollector 1952boyntoncollector is offline
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Originally Posted by I Only Smoke 4 the Cards View Post
No offense taken. I think we have had this conversation before on the board and people seem to have strong opinions on both sides.

If you are doing something to the card that you do not disclose to the buyer than you are doing something wrong...

to me soaking worse than 'schilling' that everyone is angry about...

fine to soak if you disclose it to the buyer.....if not a big deal then the buyer will pay the same no?

You can do it to your own cards but eventually they will reach the secondary market....
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  #4  
Old 12-19-2014, 01:45 PM
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Default most 19th century cards

have been soaked from something. The cards look better without paper glued on the back that wasn't originally there. If you ever buy a card from me please assume it was at one time soaked - something I will freely disclose if asked............
the double standard quote was quite good.
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  #5  
Old 12-19-2014, 01:49 PM
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Default to suggest soaking is worse than shilling

leaves me nearly speechless.....................
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  #6  
Old 12-19-2014, 06:31 PM
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leaves me nearly speechless.....................
+1
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  #7  
Old 12-20-2014, 07:15 AM
1952boyntoncollector 1952boyntoncollector is offline
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Default Soaking is worse than Shiling..diatribe

You don't have to buy a card if its priced to high......plus whoever is shilling..if they 'win' the item they will pay 10% etc..so I don't think it can be that common.... if a card you want to sell for 250..and its at 200..you going to shill for 220? if win you just lost 22 dollars..makes no sense

there are enough ebay auctions and auctions out there we can come up with what we want to offer for a card..if a card is bid too high, we don't buy it..

a reserve is almost the same thing as a schill bid or a starting price at the amount the seller wants...it all comes down to what the buyer wants to pay for the card....a card is worth what someone wants to pay for it..

but at least the buyer knows exactly what the card is.... a soaked card that is not disclosed is assumed to be not soaked........why not tell the buyers on ebay that a card is soaked if no big deal? I haven't seen one listing that says that..

however I see lots of starting prices and reserves on cards...so buyers know how much the seller wants for the card, shilled or not.....at least the buyer knows what the card is..

when cards are won , they we know what someone was willing to pay for the card..whether there were prior shill bids or not.......the card is the card.....

if put 'card was soaked'...will the prices go down from a same listing in which saying the card wasn't soaked?..... if the value is the same..then i a wrong soaking doesn't matter...


but if someone is willing to pay $500 for a card whether there was a shilling to get there or a reserve price...was the problem...to the buyer its worth $500........if put 'buy it now' for $500...or shilling..the outcome is the same....with the soaking ..its not...or lets see at least one ebay listing saying card was soaked...

if a seller of a 1952 Mantle psa tells you on an auction yesterday, that he shilled up to $30,000..cause he didn't want it go for less than that..and he risked paying $3,000 if he
'won' and the card ultimately sold for $35,000...would you subtract value for that? how about if he told you in soaked the card? ...which one hurts the value more..thoughts?

Last edited by 1952boyntoncollector; 12-20-2014 at 07:22 AM.
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  #8  
Old 12-20-2014, 07:20 AM
1952boyntoncollector 1952boyntoncollector is offline
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+1
leaves me speechless..that you are left speechless
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  #9  
Old 12-20-2014, 07:21 AM
1952boyntoncollector 1952boyntoncollector is offline
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Originally Posted by 1880nonsports View Post
have been soaked from something. The cards look better without paper glued on the back that wasn't originally there. If you ever buy a card from me please assume it was at one time soaked - something I will freely disclose if asked............
the double standard quote was quite good.
I am fine with that soaking to restore etc..as long as it is assumed or known to the buyer... I wouldn't assume that on a 1952 topps card for example....
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  #10  
Old 12-20-2014, 07:29 AM
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The overwhelming majority of collectors do not oppose soaking. You are free to believe what you want, of course. But huge numbers of prewar cards have been soaked to remove them safely from scrapbooks, just a fact of life. And I very much doubt you can tell.
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  #11  
Old 12-20-2014, 07:30 AM
1952boyntoncollector 1952boyntoncollector is offline
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The overwhelming majority of collectors do not oppose soaking. You are free to believe what you want, of course. But huge numbers of prewar cards have been soaked to remove them safely from scrapbooks, just a fact of life. And I very much doubt you can tell.
How about postwar..i think my issue is more with postwar...
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  #12  
Old 12-23-2014, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1952boyntoncollector View Post
If you are doing something to the card that you do not disclose to the buyer than you are doing something wrong...

to me soaking worse than 'schilling' that everyone is angry about...

fine to soak if you disclose it to the buyer.....if not a big deal then the buyer will pay the same no?

You can do it to your own cards but eventually they will reach the secondary market....
I'll respond since I was quoted. Soaking happens and is usually not disclosed. Right or wrong it happens. I would wager that virtually all crisp pre-war cards were glued into a book at one time.
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  #13  
Old 12-23-2014, 10:39 PM
1952boyntoncollector 1952boyntoncollector is offline
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Originally Posted by I Only Smoke 4 the Cards View Post
I'll respond since I was quoted. Soaking happens and is usually not disclosed. Right or wrong it happens. I would wager that virtually all crisp pre-war cards were glued into a book at one time.
shilling happens too......so its fine as well with that logic..
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  #14  
Old 12-24-2014, 08:21 PM
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shilling happens too......so its fine as well with that logic..
That's exactly what I was getting at. Thanks!
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  #15  
Old 12-01-2019, 04:42 PM
JT1962 JT1962 is offline
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Default Shilling

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1952boyntoncollector View Post
shilling happens too......so its fine as well with that logic..
Shilling is actually against the law, it is consider a form of fraud. 15 years ago or so the FBI arrested a couple guys on EBay for shilling. They raised prices for 2-4 years 3-8 million dollars, if I remember correctly. To say shilling is not any worse than soaking. That is only based on your own personal logic, which is idiotic.

Last edited by JT1962; 12-01-2019 at 07:23 PM.
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  #16  
Old 12-01-2019, 08:01 PM
ejharrington ejharrington is offline
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Shilling is actually against the law, it is consider a form of fraud. 15 years ago or so the FBI arrested a couple guys on EBay for shilling. They raised prices for 2-4 years 3-8 million dollars, if I remember correctly. To say shilling is not any worse than soaking. That is only based on your own personal logic, which is idiotic.

There is no law against doctoring baseball cards either. It doesn't make it right.

I don't know how anyone can justify soaking baseball cards in water or any other chemical (yes, water is a chemical).
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  #17  
Old 03-02-2020, 09:19 AM
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Could someone post or PM me the step by step process of soaking ? Time involved, type of water, time to dry, pressure on card, etc. I have no idea at this time how to do it, I have never tried it. Thanks
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  #18  
Old 03-02-2020, 09:54 AM
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Here is a pretty detailed account of the process posted previously on this site by David K.

Brian


I've soaked many trade cards over the last 20 years, including full and partial scrapbook pages, as well as a smaller number of T206s and other tobacco cards. How successful a soaking is depends largely on what type of glue was used, and you never really know that until the soaking is under way; however, the skill of the soaker also plays a part. Here's how I do it:

* I generally use a wide, shallow baking pan, though this partly has to do with the fact that most trade cards are bigger than tobacco cards, so putting them in a glass, as the original poster showed, won't really work. That's especially true for full scrapbook pages, which is how I got my start soaking more than 20 years ago.

* I fill it at least half an inch to an inch deep with warm-to-hot tap water. I've found that water from my kitchen faucet at its hottest setting is fine for soaking, and will not damage cards.

* I put the card or cards flat in the water with the paper/glue side up. You may see bubbling when the glue hits the hot water, but that's not necessary for a successful soak. If a card keeps floating to the surface rather than staying completely underwater, I may use a spoon to hold it down, leaning the spoon handle on the side of the pan.

* I generally let the cards soak for at least 5 or 10 minutes, unless the paper starts separating from the card all by itself. I'll try at this point, using my fingers or a Q-tip, to see if the paper is starting to come off. If it is, I'll do what I can to separate it from the card, carefully, always watching to make sure there's no paper being lost from the back of the card. If there is, I'll stop and let it soak some more.

* If the paper isn't coming off after 5 or 10 minutes, I'll let the card soak for another 15 or 20 minutes and try again as above. If the paper is coming off, great; if not, I let it soak some more. Once the water has cooled down to room temperature, I'll take the cards out, put them on a paper towel, refill the pan with warm-to-hot water as above, and put the cards back in to soak. I've sometimes had to do this multiple times and soak cards for over an hour. If that's what it takes, that's what you need to do.

* If the paper doesn't come completely off in one piece, I may need to try getting it off gradually, using my finger or (usually better) a Q-tip. This is where skill and experience comes in. You don't want to scrape it too hard, thus making the chance of paper loss much greater, but sometimes you need to rub at the paper and glue repeatedly until it starts to come off bit by bit. I always watch carefully for signs of paper loss at this point, and stop if I see any. I'll try soaking some more before trying again, but sometimes you encounter a glue that's not going to come off without some damage.

* After all the paper is off, I rub the back of the card with my finger or a Q-tip to get all the glue off. You can usually tell when it's off, because the back of the card stops being slippery or sticky (as it is when there's still glue). If you don't get the glue off before drying the card, you'll have problems.

* I press the cards between two paper towels in order to soak up as much of the water as possible.

* I then put a fresh paper towel on a book or other flat surface, put the cards on it, put another fresh paper towel on top of them, and then put a stack of books (or another flat, heavy object) on top of that.

* I let the cards dry for at least three or four days, changing the paper towels after the first day. When they're done drying, I remove the paper towels carefully, making sure none of the paper is sticking to the cards (which may mean there was some glue left on the cards).
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Old 03-02-2020, 10:45 AM
yanks87 yanks87 is offline
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Default Two sides of a similar coin

I am going to preface my statement by saying that I understand the difference between the card scandals running rampant in the high grade cards currently and this, but I still have an issue how this thread is so openly accepted and people who trim, recolor, or alter cards are blasted. If the card is staying in your collection, you can do whatever you want to it, the gray area comes in when the intent is to resell the card. Soaking cards compromises the genuine integrity of the card for one benefit, to remove part of it's story to increase the value. Apples to apples with pressing, trimming and recoloring. In a truly benign question, can someone explain how this is any different than a non-acceptable method of card alteration?
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  #20  
Old 01-18-2016, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1952boyntoncollector View Post
If you are doing something to the card that you do not disclose to the buyer than you are doing something wrong...

to me soaking worse than 'schilling' that everyone is angry about...

fine to soak if you disclose it to the buyer.....if not a big deal then the buyer will pay the same no?

You can do it to your own cards but eventually they will reach the secondary market....
If you are a pre-war baseball card collector, and have lots of cards, you have some that have been soaked. Saying soaking is worse than shill bidding is crazy to me.

Back to topic, T207s soak fine!!
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Last edited by Leon; 01-18-2016 at 06:57 AM.
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  #21  
Old 01-18-2016, 07:02 AM
jburl jburl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leon View Post
If you are a pre-war baseball card collector, and have lots of cards, you have some that have been soaked. Saying soaking is worse than shill bidding is crazy to me.

Back to topic, T207s soak fine!!
I didn't see T211s listed, but they soak fine, too.
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  #22  
Old 01-20-2016, 09:16 AM
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I didn't see T211s listed, but they soak fine, too.
I soaked a T217 and had no problems.
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  #23  
Old 01-20-2016, 10:38 AM
Mikehealer Mikehealer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leon View Post
Saying soaking is worse than shill bidding is crazy to me.
I agree Leon, that is a ridiculous statement.
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  #24  
Old 02-19-2016, 07:20 PM
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Has anyone tried a glossy photo type card? I have some R311's with major scrapbook pages attached that I would love to get off of there.
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Old 03-31-2016, 05:58 PM
begsu1013 begsu1013 is offline
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quick question:

i have a 62 venezuelan herb score that has some album left on it.

can this issue be done?



i know nothing about soaking* and would normally consider it taboo for post war cards.

prewar, i totally get and i think the venezuelans fall into the prewar category considering many of them were affixed to albums as well.

anyways, any helps and/or tips are appreciated.


* i have read a few threads on the actual process but have never attempted one.

Last edited by begsu1013; 03-31-2016 at 05:58 PM.
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