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Old 02-19-2018, 10:53 AM
Cozumeleno Cozumeleno is offline
An$on
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 945
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My sets are all in binders and my philosophy is, I generally keep the more expensive cards graded while cracking everything else. Cobbs, Mattys, Cy Youngs, etc., all stay graded not only for potential resale later but for their protection as well.

My sets are mostly lower grade so the lone exception is if I buy a graded card that's like a 4 or higher. In that case, I'll often keep it graded until I find a lesser card and then try to sell or trade the graded card.

I've cracked a few hundred cards, mostly Authentic grades, 1s, or 2s. I fully understand that when it comes time to sell, I'm giving up some profit. But with lower grade cards, I think that's mostly negligible and I'd much rather enjoy the cards in my binders the way they are. To me, the tradeoff works.
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T201 (50/50)
T205 (208/208)
T206 (520/520)
T207 (200/200)
E90-1 (118/121)
E90-3 (20/20)
E91A/B/C (96/99)
E93 (17/30)
E95/96 (26/55)
C59-61 (149/248)
N28/N29 A&G (84/100)
1901-02 Ogden Tabs (1,327/1,560)
1933-41 Goudey (265/478)
1939-41 Play Ball (381/473)

Complete: E47, E49, E50, E75, E76, E229, K4, N88, N91, R136, T29, T30, T38, T51, T53, T68, T73, T77, T118, T218, T220, T225, W512, W513, W542, W552, W565, Dozens of smaller uncategorized sets

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