I've only looked at a couple copies of SMR. At the time they priced cards in grades that didn't exist. - So for instance, there was a price for 8,9 and 10 when the highest graded was a 7.
That pretty much told me all I needed to know about its reliability as a price guide.
Guides in any hobby should be take as merely guides. I use them mostly to give me an idea of which cards/stamps/whatever are better than others, and by roughly how much.
I usually go off of a general feeling for what's a good deal or not. So yes, I constantly buy stuff that seems like a really good deal even if it isn't something I actively collect.
You just have to get a good feel for what's "good" and what's not. Typically I go for what seems "good" - Stuff that's hard to somewhat hard to find or that I can't recall seeing before or is interesting, but that might be currently unpopular or ignored. That can lead to some "overpaying" but if the stuff is truly good you won't go wrong and can get some really good buys.
Most of my collection of football and basketball cards that are pre 1973 came from one purchase. Flea market dealer had cards, mostly over priced singles and sets. At least that's what he had on his table. The shopping bag casually tossed on the ground a couple feet back and off to the side was full of football cards and some basketball/hockey. When I asked the price he said it was junk and I didn't want to buy it. I said I did want it and he said $20! That was before sports other than baseball had gotten popular.
The haul? 1970- about 75 football, all about 75% complete, lots of extras, no stars pulled. Same for Hockey, basketball was only the tall ones through maybe 72 and maybe 25% complete. Both also with stars included.
Condition was all over the range, some were beat, others were pretty nice.
A couple of the type cards I have were ones I didn't know anything about when I bought them - Uncle jacks, w504, that sort of stuff.
Steve B
Steve B
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