Any card can be counterfeited, usually done on an inkjet printer made from a scan of an authentic card. they can fool collectors in a photo but in person shouldnt.
on eBay etc. these are the most common Doctored reprints
(but some sets ie R319, T206 have been reprinted dozens of times with dozens of variations, so there is no 1 way to tell a fake)
N28 (all) (back ink color, card stock)
N300 (all) (back is white not black)
E145-2 (all) (cropped, ink color uniform, back NOT upside down)
R309-1 (all) (quality of image)
R319 (usually Ruths, Gehrigs) (cropped, reprint scuffed off back)
R320 (usually Gehrigs) (cropped)
R323 (usually DiMaggio, Feller) (cropped, white border around the white background)
R333 (all) (cropped, border too wide, back ink color)
T206 (all) (caption, back ink color)
T205 (usually Cobb) (cropped)
M101-4/5 (all) (cropped photo, gap between photo and line too wide)
E90-1 (#"20" upped left corner of back, sometimes scuffed off)
E253 (all) (name box too white)
W512 (image quality)
W517 (paper stock, "W517" in corner scuffed off)
W551 (too red and blue)
W560 (Ruth, Gehrig) (image quality contrast)
T3 (wrong size, corner clefs)
T200 (NOT real photo, NOT photo stock)
WG2, WG3 (image quality, especially back within the ball)
WG5, WG6 (corners too round, image quality)
Fro-Joy (image contrast, ink color)
GH Ruth Candy Co. (smaller card number, cropped)
D305 (image quality, back card stock color)
1935 Quakers Oats Babe Ruth Pin (middle "V" on "M" in "Champions" doesnt extent to bottom)
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