[rhettyeakley]

I also wouldn't recommend letting it soak overnight--some cards and trade cards (especially the early lithographed trade cards) if soaked too long will start to lose their enamel on front (especially areas of gilt or metallic printing, and for some reason the color red also seems to be the first to start breaking down). This also holds true for cards notorious for flaking or chipping (T209-2 and E94 immediately come to mind). A lot of 20th Century tobacco cards are pretty well made and can probably be soaked for days (but I wouldn't recommend that)--t206's are in this group as they soak extremely well, but don't let that get you overconfident as other sets are VERY different.

I have never bothered to use distilled water--I feel this is completely a waste of resources and time.

I actually will use warm to hot water and have found that to work best as it is actually denaturing/breaking the chemical bond between the paste and the two paper surfaces--thus it doesn't require the long soak time like cold water does. A shorter warm bath will be more fruitful than a long cold one as I get scared of the enamel loss--this becomes very obvious on 19th century issues---be VERY careful if you ever try to soak 19th Century cards as the photographic ones will simply peel off the hard cardboard backing but even the thick litho cards will begin to seperate pretty quickly. Each maker has slight differences--I have found Allen & Ginter cards (N2's, etc.) are generally 2 pieces stuck together and this is the way many Duke cards are as well but many of the Kimball brand cigarette cards are multiple layers of paper stuck together. I once was soaking some non-sports and an N185 Kimball Dancer was forgotten overnight and when I found it the next day it was 4-5 layers of paper floating in the sink (obviously unsalvageable, but a cheap lesson learned).

Never, never just let 'em sit for long periods of time--always do periodic checks--I tend to change the water (or add more warm water) to keep it from getting too cold. I'll also make sure the cards are completely submerged or flip them so they soak evenly--if it doesn't soak evenly you end up with stains and/or differences in paper consistency because one area was allowed to dry prematurely. The drying process is also kinda labor intensive as well especially when the cards get thicker (and can retain more water).

When removing attached or stubborn paper on the backs of the cards I will find a weak spot in the paper and actually turn the water on pretty hot and hold the card under a slow but steady stream of the hot water(stream diameter not to exceed about 3 mm) the weight of water stream and the heat will tend to dislodge the stubborn paper.

Keep in mind there are MANY different types of glue that were used--get to know the nature of the glue first before commiting to doing large volumes--try a beat up card first and you may need to alter the way you go abou the soak depending on how that one does. Most used simpe flur/water mix and if that is the case that is the stuff that soaks best.

REMEMBER: Know the type of ink being used--some cards have water soluable ink--obviously NEVER EVER SOAK these. You can test a little water in an inconspicuous areas on a beater to test but most lithography will tolerate soaking just find. Some sets to never soak... Clement Bothers cards ARE water soluble front ink so don't soak those! (that would be an expensive lesson). Also Colgan's Chips have slightly soluble ink on back so if you soak those too long the ink smears and you end up with a mess but the front image won't be harmed--I've never tried to soak a Red Border.

Sorry for the "stream of conciousness" form of this post but it has some very basic info everyone needs to know prior to trying to start soaking anything.