Decided to test the graded waters (for some reason) what's the best options?
 

I've decided to test the graded waters on a few of my vintage cards. I've never had anything graded, and I've only bought 1 graded card ever. I'm not even really sure why I'm testing the graded waters with all the fiasco going down right now. But I thought I would try and see how it works. I'm looking for the best options to send in only 3-4 cards. All of them will be from the 50s to early 60s (I only collect 50s-65 right now).

Would it be best to find someone that does bulk submissions to PSA or BGS? I'm talking 50s if that matters. I looked at doing it myself, but the costs are really confusing. It's this price is it's valued at this, this price if it's valued at that. On Beckett, it could take up to a year? What's that about? They used to do like 5 day, 10 day, 20 day and 45 day. I guess they did away with that? Plus the shipping there and back would not be worth it.

Also, what do you use to determine what to send in? Only send in cards that would grade, say, a 5 or 6 and above? Or send in all levels of grade? Send in only stars? Or semistars and commons? I'm guessing only stars since commons probably won't fetch much even in great graded condition.

Any help would be appreciated. Also, if y'all suggest doing a group sub, are there people on here that do group subs? Or how do you find people that do group subs? I've talked to people at my LCS about doing a Beckett group sub, so I might do that.

Or would you avoid grading all together because of the fiasco and just stick to raw cards? I really enjoy finding raw cards and putting them into binders/sets.

IMHO Beckett is a joke at best unless it is new shiny cards.

I would get in on a PSA group submission. Bobby on this forum does them on a semi regular basis. The problem is PSA grades are like spinning a wheel, meaning they are all over the place. The last one I was in on every card came back graded as a 8. The cards them selves really graded from a 6s to 10s.

If you want the best consistency and most accurate grades I would suggest SGC.

The first step is to really examine the cards you have and estimate as fairly as possible what grade they 'should' get. Knock one or two points off of that number (because they never seem to come back how you expected) and check out what cards in that grade have sold for recently. This will give you an insight into whether or not it's worthwhile to send them in. For instance, say you have a star card from the 60's that should grade a 6 and when you investigate recent sales, sixes usually sell for $35. If you're paying $20+ (with shipping) to have it graded, is it really worth it? If you're planning on keeping the cards in your PC, then I would say yes it is, but if you're looking to sell them, you wouldn't have a chance of making much (if any) of a return on said cards. But if there is a large margin between the cost of grading versus the potential sales price, it may be very wise to get them graded.

VintageBreaks also runs PSA submissions at $9.50 a card for cards valued up to $99.
Blowout breakers do submissions for more expensive cards. But Bobby does great with them.

I would only bother grading cards if you are looking to sell/trade them in the near future. If you are keeping the cards long term, there is no need to grade them. If you have 15 cards worth $100-$500, I would get a PSA Platinum Club Membership and send them in with the 15 free grades that come with the membership. Otherwise, look for a group sub.

Okay, another question. I've seen several people say cards valued at X. Is that eBay sale value? Or is there a magazine (kind of like Beckett) for graded cards? How are values on graded cards determined. Also, someone said $100-$500. Is that pre-graded card values? Or post graded values?

It is pre grades value. Basically what it would cost you to replace the card.

PSA's declared value is what you think it would take to purchase a raw card in the same condition. If you get a grade that drastically increases the value, PSA may call/email you and require that you upgrade the service level. Say for a 1993 UD SP Jeter, you submit at the $499 level. If it grades a PSA 8, it is would likely sell for $750, and PSA will likely let it slide. If it grades a PSA 9 or 10, they'll ask you to upgrade your service level and pay the difference.

There are graded price guides that Beckett puts out, but everyone uses sale values instead.