O/t - Safes
 

So...I wanna know everything about picking out a safe. I understand the heat rating, they also look like they have a waterproof rating now. I get that most of the damage is done with water putting out the fire and those things need to be kept off the ground. I want to bolt this bad boy and I also want some extra space for documents and whatever else I get into. I currently have a whopping 88 cards in the collection but that could always grow.

So I am looking at this one:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stack-On...MB-E/202996367

Why are smaller ones $2k+? Shelves are great and all but I don't understand the price disparity. Its 418 lbs so it would be tough to carry out of my house and all but I just don't get it.

Also, does anyone know how much of a break I will get in my card insurance on this?

Any help/assistance is always appreciated.

Great topic Steven. I too am in need of a great safe and know nothing. Would love to hear what the board has to say on the matter, including links to safes people own and recommend.

I have a 1200 lb jewelers safe, bought it used but new condition, and when I had a more expensive collection I always used a bank safe deposit box. Best money I ever spent (and it wasn't much) for the peace of mind. I think I paid around 1100 dollars and I don't think they have gone up too much (when you can find a good used one they are cheap, many times). I got mine at a safe store that had new and used ones.

What store did you go to? Mom and Pops or was it a chain? It seems like a lot of places don't keep too many safes on hand.

Can I ask what thought/preferences you put into the purchase? A heavy ass safe sounds like great peace of mind and Id agree that is priceless.

Safe
 

There are numerous types of safes from jewelers to gun safes. The biggest problem with them for us as collectors is water. Be careful when you bolt it down that is likely where the water will come from. You will hear myths about self-sealing doors during a fire. What if there is no fire and your sump pump backs up?

Liberty makes one called a fatboy that is about $1000 on sale delivered. They usually run $1500. It is big enough that your average fella will not be moving and big enough to hold all of your valuables from guns, cards as well as rings and bullion. Water will get in if not the inside will be steam anyway.

Below is a link to talk about water proof safes.

https://blog.safeandvaultstore.com/a...es-waterproof/

Johnson Safes
 

Mine is a Johnson Safe. Johnsonsafes.net. The BR series are really nice. I'm going to approach them about making one with only shelves and not the long gun half as I need another one now. I'd like a pull out lateral file drawer for my hanging binders.

There's two aspects to the fire rating - temperature and duration. The fire rating on that Stackon sucks.

Other things that make a difference in the price are the materials of construction, locking bolts, locking mechanism and hinges.

My guess is that it's not constructed that well. My safe is about the same dimensions, but weighs a lot more. It doesn't appear to have many locking bolts. The locking mechanism is electronic. Personally, I don't like electronic. I really can't give an opinion on the hinges without seeing it in person.

As someone else mentioned, go with the Liberty.

Curious as to why the safe in your link would need an extended warranty. If the manufacturer won't even stand behind a safe for 3 years I don't think I'd be interested.

Having explored this topic as a complete novice in the past year and coming out of it much wiser, I'd throw in a few key tidbits:

--If you want more than to keep out nosy neighborhood kids, then do NOT buy anything rated as a RSC (Residential Security Container) which is anything from Costco/Walmart/etc. or labeled as a 'Gun Safe'. You need a "Vault".

--Any determined individual with a prybar will have nearly any Safe open within 60 seconds. (Check out YouTube for examples if you don't want to sleep well at night...)

--Layering of security measures is key, with a conventional Alarm/Motion/Camera system as well as concealment both effective layers of security in addition to the Safe itself.

--Best rule of thumb is to invest in Steel -- Use your $$$ to buy as thick of steel gauge for the body and door of the safe as possible. This is all that truly provides resilience to an attack. This also necessarily increases the weight of the safe. A decent Vault is going to be 1000 lbs plus. Anything less will fall under an RSC definition, typically.

--I would strongly recommend enlisting a local safe/security company who specializes in this area of work.

--Be sure to bolt the Safe to your foundation/floor once mounted. All Safes of even modest size have pre-drilled holes in the bottom, and not bolting it down will allow the Safe to be tipped and attacked from the side, where the Body is typically much thinner gauge steel than the Door.

--If the collection is too valuable to be held safely at home with peace of mind, use a Safety Deposit Box at the Bank.

I put a lot of thought into it and the safe I got I couldn't be happier with.

https://www.a-1locksmith.com/plano/ is where I got it.

I wasn't here when it was delivered but understand it had to have a tow truck to bring it in. It is rated TL30, which I think means that it's going to take someone at least 30 minutes to get into it under their best circumstance with normal tools. It also has another small safe built in the inside too. It is fire rated Class 350 2 hours, and is probably 2-4 inches of solid steel all the way around it. That all said when my collection got too valuable to leave at home (safes don't protect from people with guns, God forbid) I got the Bank box. I had the Safe Deposit box for at least 10-15 yrs along with the safe at home. The bank safe deposit box, a very large one, was around 125 per yr. I strongly recommend one if you have a valuable collection. Good luck.