"strong for the grade" premium
 

I was wondering if anyone had any specific buying rules for cards that are strong for their assigned grade. Like if a card is a psa 5 and is a strong 5 (but not a 5.5), is there a generally accepted percentage premium above SMR that you're willing to pay? I know every collector and every card is different, but I just didn't know if there was a general range.

I can name several ebay sellers that consider every card they sell strong for the grade. Somehow they are never in possession of a card that is weak for the grade. That is a fantastic business model.

premium
 

Honestly there are no rules as to what you can ask for a "strong" graded card. The market will determine whether your price is in their range or not. If someone wants the card because the appeal is better than the grade, then they will pay a premium...but how much, no one really knows. I've seen T206 commons graded a 2 because of a glue stain on the back, but otherwise a stellar card, have sold in the $100+ range.

Simply list the card(s) in question for whatever you think it is worth...the appeal definitely adds a great amount to the card, not just number on the slab.

+ 1
 

I could not agree more...check out BST and there will be quite a few !!

Sure, but I'm not talking about selling, I'm talking about buying....as in when you actually agree that a card is strong for the grade.

Mike, I'm actually on the buying end of this one, but regardless, thanks for your useful input.

I'm sure that the grading companies would prefer that you resubmit it, hoping for a half-grade bump.

There are real cases where the image quality is unusually good and a premium will be made. A good example is Old Judge, where the cards are sometimes not graded based on image quality (clarity, etc). You can have a high grade with a washed out image and a poor grade with a stellar image. The image quality most definitely effects value.

Beyond that, as a buyer it's not so much how much you pay but what you buy. The cards you buy should be good to stellar for the grade, and the cards that are weak for the grade are the ones you don't buy. Let someone else buy the latter at market value.

If you are the buyer, the same principle still applies. Pay what you think the card is worth to you...there is no specific price that these lower graded beauties go for...it's up to you to decide how bad you want it. If you are looking for appeal, you may be willing to pay the higher prices, but if the technicality affects your decision then you may not want to go the extra mile to purchase one of these.

Eye appeal
 

+1 - I can think of one in particular that always lists his cards in caps as "...NICER" and "..MUCH NICER" - - nothing is ever "WORSE" or "MUCH WORSE" :)

Seriously, I will note an opinion of "strong for the grade" occasionally if centered well, nice image, colors, clean, no creases or marks. That's strictly a matter of opinion and depends on the buyer's sense of value and preference. Varies for many - I know people who wouldn't consider a card w/a crease no matter what the numerical grade is. Some hate off-center issues, staining, paper-loss, etc.

If you have VCP, you can see a wide range of pictures and prices (in many cases) for same grade, but various levels of eye-appeal. Centering issues and staining seem to drive prices down in most cases. Well centered and clean seem to do better despite creases and/or mild corner fraying (perhaps older they are, more accepted that is?)

I run across many who like lower grade T206s (as an example) with paper-loss -- which is an automatic 2 or less for most (.. SGC at least, PSA seems to give those a 5 :rolleyes:) but otherwise clean and present well. Lower grade, lower prices - - but otherwise present well.

Bottom line to me is if you like it, you determine value and premium (if any) you'd be willing to pay.

Thankfully, the B/S/T is pretty much a hyperbole-free zone.

I like to buy 7s and 8s which I am confident I can turn into 10s after a bunch of resubmits.

Eye appeal vs technical grade
 

We had a thread awhile back with regard to eye appeal versus technical grade, with what I recall was a general consensus that the former may often trump the latter insofar as value is concerned. I bought the 1910 Sepia PC796 Walter Johnson in the 2011 REA auction for a relatively hefty price, despite the fact that it was accurately described as having a microscopic pinhole, as well as very slight indentations at two corners from having been very well preserved in a photo-type album. While the card was graded "good" by SGC, it truly has a nearmint appearance, with four great corners and is well-centered. The bottom line is buy what appears pleasing to you in the best grade you can find or afford. If the card appears displeasing to you, chances are it will not appeal to others either, in the event you later decide to part with it.

Happy collecting,

Larry

Steps
 

Step 1. Throw SMR into trash barrel

Step 2. Try covering the number on the slab with your finger or piece of paper and looking at the card. Do you still like it?

Step 3. Make your own decision on what you are willing to pay and why you are interested in buying it. This especially applies if you are considering cards like T206 or 33 Goudey that you can choose from dozens of each player daily.

Step 4. Take SMR out of trash barrel, place in recycle bin. Go green!

As for graded cards - I have found some PSA 2's that look better that 3's and as well as SGC 2's that look better than 3's ETC. I do not always go by the grade given when comparing what I will be buying, but rather I keep the grade in my mind but judge the condition for my self. I have recently bought 2 cards, both 2's OVER to cards that were 3's cause IMO they were MUCH better. I even had posted about those 2 buys I made.

Brian this about sums it up. For many in this hobby the grade alone dictates the value of the card and not the card itself.
Somewhere along the way this whole grading game went ass backwards and many have been misled and suckered.

I think that would be a couple minutes after PSA offered their opinion on that first card...

I have seen "strong for the grade cards" sell for less than an inferior equivalent. I have seen PSA 6's sell for more than PSA 6.5's. Basically all pricing info gets thrown out the window. Pricing/Ebay is basically a crapshoot. The overpriced BIN's that sit in a sellers inventory for years on end is the only thing that stays the same.

Here is another perfect example -

1 - SGC 30 - http://www.ebay.com/itm/SGC-30-1911-...item484cff1d03

2 - SGC 40 - http://www.ebay.com/itm/A0334-T205-1...item3cb7cba134

these 2 cards arent even close the 30 is WAY better

Brian said it best...there is no magic formula! Always bet with your head...not over it!