Ok, can somebody explain how to correctly calibrate my monitor...
 

Hey guys,

I'm thinking about buying a Spyder to calibrate my desktop computer's monitor, because when I look at the card scans I put up on the forum, the color seems a little off. I want accuracy here, and on my website when I start sharing my entire collection.

Before I do so, however, I'm wondering if there is something else I should be trying first, or instead. I'm assuming, too, that when I create a color profile with the Spyder (or whatever else I use), I can use that same color profile on my scanner.

I know we have some real photography gurus here, and calibration for them is a must. So any help would be greatly appreciated!

For the sake of this discussion, my desktop system runs Windows Vista 64 bit. I've been using the Adobe Gamma that comes with Photoshop CS2, but I know I can do better than that. System is a custom built gaming system that's about 5 years old.

Edit: video card is an EVGA 8800 GTS KO 512 MB w/ Nvidia Lumenex engine. Monitor is an Acer P223w 22".

Thanks!

Hi Bill,

I do a lot of photography editing and I use the Spyder4 Pro on my monitors. One of the keys is having a monitor that can display the proper gamut of colors. One of the most recommended monitors for photo editing and one is one of my monitors is the Dell U2410.

One thing that many people don't realize is that the monitors come from the factory with the brightness set much too high and that is one of the first things you need to adjust. Another thing is you need to switch from Adobe Gamma to sRGB as that will give you truer display colors.

So that being said, you are right that properly calibrating your monitor will help tremendously in getting accurate colors. I highly recommend the Spyder4Pro. When you are done with the calibration process it will allow you to view the uncalibrated and calibrated views and you will realize how far off your uncalibrated monitor is.

Greg

Thank you, Greg.

I'm going to download and install an ICC profile specifically for my monitor, and see how that works for me in the interim. Am I correct in assuming that the Spyder creates a color profile that I could also use on my scanner? Or am I best off with dedicated scanner software like Silverfast that includes scanner calibrating software?

That Dell monitor you mentioned is really affordable for a 24". When I put together my next computer, I might just get that. :)

Yes, the Spyder creates an ICC profile that will be loaded for the monitor every time the computer boots. I've never used a scanner ICC profile since most of my work is photo editing, but I would imagine that you could just load the created ICC profile directly into the scanner as well to match the two. Hopefully others can chime in and help with that.

Yes, is it a great 24" monitor and a good price point as well.

Anytime! Glad to be able to give back after all the help you've given me!
Greg

Thanks again, Greg :)

Any more input would be appreciated.

Images can look different on different computer screens. The colors and tones may be different on my computer screen than yours. Color difference may be to your computer not the scanner. Either way, I don't think the problem is perfectly solvable.

Matching the tones between what is on the computer screen and what is printed on the computer printer is a years old problem. They're regularly different and computer programmers have long worked on trying to solve that. For most of us the difference is no concern, but if you're a book publisher, advertising professional or artist it can be a big deal.

Also, is there a 'correct' brightness setting to your or my computer screen. I change the brightness level on mine as often as I do the volume.

Duly note that if you inform me that it's 5, I'll set it to 6 because I don't follow the rules. And that's why the babes love me.

LOL!! Nice post^^

There is a proper brightness and the Spyder will set that as well. And you are right for most folks it is irrelevant and comes into play when printing and detailed photo editing which I do. It comes down to wanting your white to be white and not blown out and your black to be black but not blocked (by blocked I mean that the dark grays are not showing as black). Now for photo printing (and this is not what Bill was referring to) one thing I do is soft proof the image prior to printing. That means adjusting the image characteristics so that the printed image will match the image seen on the screen. You can do a quick search and find out numerous ways to do soft proofing.

Greg