Need advice on how to clean this T206
 

I'm leaning against soaking due to how fragile it is. My best idea is to try hot water and a q tip and gently try to remove some dirt/mold.

I like the card as it is, but if I can safely clean it up a little I would like to.

Thanks for looking and any advice I may receive.

I've soaked a bunch of T206s in my day. But, I wouldn't soak that one. The paper stock at the bottom looks too weak to stand it. And the reward is low given the overall condition of the card. I think you might lose the front portion where the name/team is.

A wire brush and an acetylene torch should do the trick.

Frank, I tried your method and I don't think it worked.

Hey Luke.

Well it did change it to an Elberfeld. Keep trying, maybe you can get a
Wagner out of it.

You forgot a step....Luke needs to use Dung Beetles followed by Dermestid Beetles. After that, the brush and torch method can add texture with that singed look that we all crave.

...now that was Funny!:p

I would soak, but not use a q-tip or anything - no rubbing.

Luke, sick card :eek::eek::eek:

Happy Birthday btw!!!

If that's mold, wouldn't a tiny drop or two of bleach (along with the soaking) kill the mold?

I think that's my Elberfeld card... it's not for sale by the way!:D

Haha, yeah I lifted your scan for my attempt at humor :D

Thanks Josh!

I'm open to the idea of putting a few drops of bleach into a soaking tub, but I'm a little concerned about the fragility of the card. Has anyone done something similar with positive results?

I've wondered the same thing. I have some cards with "foxing" and wondered what paper conservators recommend and what is "foxing". I googled it and found this answer from ebay, of all places. Maybe something here will be useful. I will say, I have NOT tried this myself.

How To Remove Foxing on Vintage Paper Prints

Because of the age of vintage paper prints they are subject to foxing buildup on the paper. Foxing is a type of mildew found on vintage paper that has been sitting for long periods of time. Foxing happens as paper attracts both iron and ferrous oxide to the paper material. This will cause the paper to discolor and have an odor. To remove the foxing you will need the following:

1 liter bottle
Rubber gloves that are chemically resistant
Hydrogen Peroxide
Calcium Hydroxide

Fill the 1 liter bottle with distilled water. Add 1 teaspoon of hydrogen peroxide to the water. Let it sit for about 30 seconds and then add a teaspoon of calcium hydroxide to the water. This neutralizes any acidic properties inside of the solution.

Lay out some towels on a work table. Place the paper print on the table with the foxing side of the print facing upward. Wet the foxing on the print's surface lightly with some tap water. Dip a cotton swab into the prepared solution. Gently rub the swab over the affected areas on the print. Let the solution sit on the paper for 30 minutes. Reapply the solution to the print's surface every 30 minutes over a span of four to six hours, or until the foxing is completely removed.

If the paper is brittle it is recommended to have a professional perform this procedure.

How to Remove Foxing on Paper

Overtime, when books are exposed to damp conditions, mold and mildew build up and this formation is called "foxing." The term refers to ferrous oxide, or iron, that becomes attracted to paper and leads to the unwanted discoloration on the paper. To remove foxing from books you will need the following:

· Corn starch
· 2 tbsp. liquid dish soap
· 1/2 gallon warm water


If the book is still slightly damp, open it up in the center and set it in a dry, warm area to dry.

Sprinkle corn starch onto any pages that are wet. Allow the corn starch to remain for 10 to 15 minutes before wiping it away with a soft cloth. Then lay the book out with it open in the center.

Allow the book to remain laid out until it is completely dry. Once this has occurred, wipe away the dry mildew with a soft cloth.

Make sure that your problem is foxing rather than oxidation. Foxing turns pages green, and oxidation typically turns them a coppery, reddish color.

respecting your goal, I wouldn't mess with it. The back is fairly strong and the back is really what matters. I should mention that I am often wrong.

I agree with Todd. I have attempted to clean up a similar condtion McGraw and ended up losing more on the front than was worth. Btw -Todd, i live up the mountain from you. If you come to Floyd you should stop by my farm and talk cards.

Agree that on some cards, as is the case with this one, it's best to leave them alone.

Thanks to everyone for all the advice. I ended up deciding to try a soak on it. Just warm water. Used my finger to rub off some dirt on the more sturdy parts of the front and the back. Only had it in the water for about 8 mins. Pretty happy with how it turned out. I've always loved the colors on this card, and now they are a little brighter and more pleasing to the eye.

Wow, good job Luke, a definite improvement! I'm glad you decided to go just with the warm water. To me, using non-water substances borders on alteration.

Yes, looks very nice.

That looks like it worked out great - well done.

I was just up in floyd not long ago. Bought a small collection of 60s and 70s cards! Love to get together sometime.

Hot water is a mistake.
 

Hot water is a mistake, which could set the dirt into the card. A q-tip with filtered or deionized water will suffice. Stay away from the areas where the image is missing, in the center and bottom. You do not want to rearrange the dirt. Be gentle, it will work. If this does work the stains may be more oil based, which presents another situation.