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topcat61 04-24-2018 11:36 AM

Leon I'm just thinking out loud here, but would a gram scale be able to pick up a counterfeit or skinned T206? perhaps even a black light or digital microscope? What are the telltale signs to look for? Thanks

steve B 04-24-2018 01:28 PM

A good magnifier and knowing what to look at as far as the printing and edge quality goes will detect most of them.

Blacklight will pick up a lot of them too.

After that it gets a bit tricky.

I don't have the number handy, but at one point I measured the thickness of several T206s and they were all the same. Within reason, I didn't look beyond thousandths of an inch, and given the tech of the day I'd say +/- .001 is reasonable. If I remember it correctly there was no difference in any of the ones I measured.

Just seeing a lot of originals up close is probably the biggest thing. After a certain point, the ones that are "wrong" will be more obvious.
That's also something I don't have much advice on. Most collectors who started a long time ago have probably held more T206s and other prewar cards than most newer dealers have seen. One show I went to there were probably 5-6 dealers who had between 50 and 100 in stacks. Not even a plastic holder. That just doesn't happen today.

rockthree 04-24-2018 03:53 PM

The problem with these cards is that there is extra paper and glue on there, which would totally throw off the weight.

bnorth 04-24-2018 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by topcat61 (Post 1770256)
Leon I'm just thinking out loud here, but would a gram scale be able to pick up a counterfeit or skinned T206? perhaps even a black light or digital microscope? What are the telltale signs to look for? Thanks

I have heard of people using scales, personally I have not and can't imagine that changing.

All you need is a good dial caliper that you can read thousandths of an inch on. Like Steve said in a previous post .001 is a lot of difference in a baseball card. If a card has been skinned you will know for sure.

Not recommending the seller buy Lyman is a good quality caliper.:) https://www.midwayusa.com/product/10...tainless-steel

steve B 04-24-2018 07:32 PM

I have one similar to this one. I like the instant inch/metric conversion.
While I wouldn't rely on it for any really critical machining, mine has been very reliable and accurate.
The digital readout may be easier for people not used to the dial caliper.

I also don't have any particular recommendation for the seller, I just picked one in the price range of what I paid for mine that looked nearly the same. Other similar ones are available a lot of places for a bit under $20 to a bit over $40. One with a good brand name that would look better if you're doing serious machining will run around 2-300 But for most of us that's not necessary.

https://www.cabelas.com/product/Cabe...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

steve B 04-24-2018 07:41 PM

And for what it's worth, I made a halfhearted attempt at finding a nearly matching cardstock without going to a wholesale paper supplier.

Craft stores - Nope.
Hobby shops - Comic backing boards are close, and don't react to UV, but they're too thick.
Other retail sources- Nothing close at all.

Leon 04-27-2018 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockthree (Post 1770336)
The problem with these cards is that there is extra paper and glue on there, which would totally throw off the weight.

Really? How many have you handled?


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