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-   -   Approaching The Monster - T206 (http://www.net54baseball.com/showthread.php?t=231822)

KMayUSA6060 11-29-2016 06:44 AM

Approaching The Monster - T206
 
As I breakdown my collection and the goals I have for it, I'm looking at starting the chase of The Monster - 520 T206 set. I'm looking for some input on my approach.

Acquisition Strategy
Target 50+/- cards per year, for 10 years. Create a spreadsheet with estimated expenses per card, and of the 50 cards per year, acquire about 37-38 commons, and 13-12 uncommons/HoFers/important cards. Thoughts?

Grade
Not too concerned about corners. I'm more focused on the surface. 1-2 will work for the commons. SGC 1-3 for the important cards/HoFers, as long as the 1 is under-graded. Sound about right for a budget?

Backs
I don't think the backs are too important to me. I'm just going to target the best price I can find for each card. For those of you who have attempted/completed this set, would you recommend targeting a certain back, or does completing this set with a budget negate the importance of the backs?

Storage
Breaking it down, I want to put the commons in a binder, and the uncommons/important/HoFers in slabs. Thoughts?

Marketplace
Where is the best, most trustworthy place to buy raw T206?


Are there any other factors I'm overlooking? Thank you in advance for any and all advice.

clydepepper 11-29-2016 06:54 AM

I'll put in my 2 cents worth:

Acquisition Strategy
Target 50+/- cards per year, for 10 years. Create a spreadsheet with estimated expenses per card, and of the 50 cards per year, acquire about 37-38 commons, and 13-12 uncommons/HoFers/important cards. Thoughts?
Sticking with anything for 10 years is a goal in itself.


Grade
Not too concerned about corners. I'm more focused on the surface. 1-2 will work for the commons. SGC 1-3 for the important cards/HoFers, as long as the 1 is under-graded. Sound about right for a budget?
Personally, I hate paper loss ; try not to depend on under-graded cards.


BacksI don't think the backs are too important to me. I'm just going to target the best price I can find for each card. For those of you who have attempted/completed this set, would you recommend targeting a certain back, or does completing this set with a budget negate the importance of the backs?
As many board members will attest, there is a lot to like about T206 backs and a lot of hidden value, so don't just bypass this.


Storage
Breaking it down, I want to put the commons in a binder, and the uncommons/important/HoFers in slabs. Thoughts?
Like anything else you want to preserve, keep away from direct sunlight.


MarketplaceWhere is the best, most trustworthy place to buy raw T206?
Our own BST for sure!


Good Luck!

Bpm0014 11-29-2016 06:57 AM

Best place to buy is here for sure...

KMayUSA6060 11-29-2016 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clydepepper (Post 1606129)
I'll put in my 2 cents worth:

MarketplaceWhere is the best, most trustworthy place to buy raw T206?
Our own BST for sure!

Good Luck!

Thank you very much for your 2 cents. You and Brendan each said the best place to buy is here.

One question I have about buying here...

Is it best to have one major "The Monster Chase" thread to garner more popularity/attention, or multiple threads depending on which individual cards I'm focusing on?

Cozumeleno 11-29-2016 09:16 AM

Not aware of your budget, so it's hard to say how many cards is a reasonable number per year.

Regarding the backs, it's all about what is important to you. Would you rather finish the set first or take your time and acquire rarer backs? Neither is wrong, but it will obviously affect your budget. I got to 520 first without regard to back and have been upgrading/diversifying backs over the past year. I probably had about 50 of the rarer backs (PB, Sovereign, Overprint, Old Mill) when I completed the set and am now up to 125 or so.

My cards are in a binder because that is my preference. But I also have a lower-grade set (P-VG). If you are building a higher-grade set, I would use toploaders. For the expensive cards, I recommend buying them graded or buying them raw from a dependable seller and slabbing them.

The only real piece of advice I have is to focus on bargains and not types of cards. I focused on only commons until I got about 3/4 of the way through and passed up some good deals along the way on HOFs/SLs. If I did it again, I'd focus more on getting the best deals instead of just doing all commons first. You'll save yourself some headaches along the way.

Best of luck!

Quote:

Originally Posted by KMayUSA6060 (Post 1606128)
As I breakdown my collection and the goals I have for it, I'm looking at starting the chase of The Monster - 520 T206 set. I'm looking for some input on my approach.

Acquisition Strategy
Target 50+/- cards per year, for 10 years. Create a spreadsheet with estimated expenses per card, and of the 50 cards per year, acquire about 37-38 commons, and 13-12 uncommons/HoFers/important cards. Thoughts?

Grade
Not too concerned about corners. I'm more focused on the surface. 1-2 will work for the commons. SGC 1-3 for the important cards/HoFers, as long as the 1 is under-graded. Sound about right for a budget?

Backs
I don't think the backs are too important to me. I'm just going to target the best price I can find for each card. For those of you who have attempted/completed this set, would you recommend targeting a certain back, or does completing this set with a budget negate the importance of the backs?

Storage
Breaking it down, I want to put the commons in a binder, and the uncommons/important/HoFers in slabs. Thoughts?

Marketplace
Where is the best, most trustworthy place to buy raw T206?


Are there any other factors I'm overlooking? Thank you in advance for any and all advice.


mrvster 11-29-2016 09:19 AM

Kmay....
 
you have a well planned approach! my suggestion have fun a buy what you can swing at the time!

a lot of purchases are "spur" of the moment....

email me anytime you need help


peace


johnny

KMayUSA6060 11-29-2016 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrvster (Post 1606166)
you have a well planned approach! my suggestion have fun a buy what you can swing at the time!

a lot of purchases are "spur" of the moment....

email me anytime you need help


peace


johnny

Email sent. Thank you, sir!

BruceinGa 11-29-2016 09:32 AM

My strategy is similar to yours, although I haven't written it down. Maybe I will do that this afternoon.
Since this thread is about you strategy I won't go into mine too much.
Good luck with acquiring 50 a year, it should be obtainable.
I like sgc 60 (5) with good centering, more $$ but I'm particular.
I also like the different backs, just don't see me buying many at the grade I want.
As for storage. I want all slabbed cards. I plan to scan mine, front and back, keeping them in a binder.
Good luck, you're an inspiration.

KMayUSA6060 11-29-2016 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BruceinGa (Post 1606173)
My strategy is similar to yours, although I haven't written it down. Maybe I will do that this afternoon.
Since this thread is about you strategy I won't go into mine too much.
Good luck with acquiring 50 a year, it should be obtainable.
I like sgc 60 (5) with good centering, more $$ but I'm particular.
I also like the different backs, just don't see me buying many at the grade I want.
As for storage. I want all slabbed cards. I plan to scan mine, front and back, keeping them in a binder.

Good luck, you're an inspiration.

The different backs is an interesting conundrum because of the look in binders. That's where my dilemma comes.

As far as keeping yours in binders, are you referring to the scans or the slabs?

BruceinGa 11-29-2016 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KMayUSA6060 (Post 1606177)
As far as keeping yours in binders, are you referring to the scans or the slabs?

Scans. Someone posted here last week mentioning that they did that. I experimented gluing the front scan to the back scan, making a card. That took too much time. Now I think I'll scan front and back, put both in a file trimming that and inserting it in a page protector. I need to check out the available sizes for protectors.
For my slabs I use Sterilite 6 qt boxes with tops. They are available around here at Big Lots for $1.

KMayUSA6060 11-29-2016 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BruceinGa (Post 1606204)
Scans. Someone posted here last week mentioning that they did that. I experimented gluing the front scan to the back scan, making a card. That took too much time. Now I think I'll scan front and back, put both in a file trimming that and inserting it in a page protector. I need to check out the available sizes for protectors.
For my slabs I use Sterilite 6 qt boxes with tops. They are available around here at Big Lots for $1.

Ah ok. Very nice.

I like the idea of the Sterilite boxes. I have seen that done before by a guy on YouTube and need to get some myself.

Luke 11-29-2016 11:52 AM

A lot of good advice already. I would add one thing. You should be aware that your wants may change as you get used to the set. I started with a pretty similar strategy as you and hit a wall about 175 cards in. I had won an auction for a nice VG Jeff Sweeney with Piedmont back at a really good price, but when it came in the mail I wasn't at all excited about it and didn't open it for like 3 weeks. I realized that I wasn't really into my original goals anymore, so I sold a bunch of the lower grade cards and re-focused.

Nowadays I am a back collector and I don't really plan to ever finish the set. As long as I enjoy each and every card I pick up, I am happy.

Not saying this or something similar will happen to you, but it might. You might start out collecting cards in poor-good but then win a few PSA 4s at good prices and realize you like them much better than your PSA 1s. Things like that can happen and your wants can change.

wolf441 11-29-2016 11:55 AM

I would advise to stick with graded cards. You have an admirable goal and I did something similar, but at some point or when you complete the set, you may find yourself wanting to sell. At that point, graded cards will, for the most part, sell for more than raw and you don't want to pay to have all of your raw cards graded. Let someone else pay that expense and buy them already slabbed. Best of luck!

The backs are fun as well. You can try to pick up at least one of each back (or at least the non-Uzit, Drums, etc... to start). Keep that as part of your checklist.

I liked to look for SGC cards that were graded lower because of things like back stamps, which technically drop the condition grade, but which I think really add to your collection. It's neat to see a stamp that tells a small story of what the original owner was doing over 100 years ago...

Best,

Steve

KMayUSA6060 11-29-2016 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LukeLyon (Post 1606207)
A lot of good advice already. I would add one thing. You should be aware that your wants may change as you get used to the set. I started with a pretty similar strategy as you and hit a wall about 175 cards in. I had won an auction for a nice VG Jeff Sweeney with Piedmont back at a really good price, but when it came in the mail I wasn't at all excited about it and didn't open it for like 3 weeks. I realized that I wasn't really into my original goals anymore, so I sold a bunch of the lower grade cards and re-focused.

Nowadays I am a back collector and I don't really plan to ever finish the set. As long as I enjoy each and every card I pick up, I am happy.

Not saying this or something similar will happen to you, but it might. You might start out collecting cards in poor-good but then win a few PSA 4s at good prices and realize you like them much better than your PSA 1s. Things like that can happen and your wants can change.

That's why I think I want to approach this with a 10-year mindset. That way I can still pick up some other cards, and hold the interest in completing the set.

Jobu 11-29-2016 12:24 PM

I am not a set guy, but if you are starting fresh you might budget extra for years 1-2 and target HOFers. Prices on HOFers tend to rise more quickly than commons so it makes sense to get those first rather than last as the commons won't appreciate a ton. Also, not sure of your budget, but I like the idea suggested above for aiming to get one of each back type (factory #s included!) as you put together your set. Things like BL 460 and Brown Old Mill might never happen, but I still really enjoy having several different backs and I have never had anything tougher than a Carolina Brights.

drmondobueno 11-29-2016 12:36 PM

Hello, Kyle, and welcome to The Monster
 
I started chasing the set in earnest in 2012, buying lower grade commons and lots. (Buy in lots when you can). I had an unspoken goal to get a short set done in two years, and I did.

My focus shifted to the HOF cards and found I liked the assurance I had with graded cards. There are a lot of trimmed cards out there, which is fine because many of these cards look really nice. Unfortunately, a number of these were not presented as trimmed and I paid a price dealing with that. This is another reason to use the BST. You may run into a few issues but I can tell you the guys on this list are invested in the hobby and will treat you well.

And then I sprung for a red Cobb, SGC 60, beautiful registration, perfect centering. There went my budget. I put money into the HOF and scarcer cards and gave up upgrading my lower grade commons once I realized my budget was getting away from me. I got burned out, can you believe it!

So, take your time, stick to your budget and buy what you like. Cards will be there when you are ready for them!

Have fun! Oh yeah, get yerself into Frank's Monster thread if you have not already...

Keith

KMayUSA6060 11-29-2016 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jobu (Post 1606213)
I am not a set guy, but if you are starting fresh you might budget extra for years 1-2 and target HOFers. Prices on HOFers tend to rise more quickly than commons so it makes sense to get those first rather than last as the commons won't appreciate a ton. Also, not sure of your budget, but I like the idea suggested above for aiming to get one of each back type (factory #s included!) as you put together your set. Things like BL 460 and Brown Old Mill might never happen, but I still really enjoy having several different backs and I have never had anything tougher than a Carolina Brights.

Yeah I definitely like that idea of the backs. I just wasn't sure if the uniform look was better or not.

KMayUSA6060 11-29-2016 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drmondobueno (Post 1606216)
I started chasing the set in earnest in 2012, buying lower grade commons and lots. (Buy in lots when you can). I had an unspoken goal to get a short set done in two years, and I did.

My focus shifted to the HOF cards and found I liked the assurance I had with graded cards. There are a lot of trimmed cards out there, which is fine because many of these cards look really nice. Unfortunately, a number of these were not presented as trimmed and I paid a price dealing with that. This is another reason to use the BST. You may run into a few issues but I can tell you the guys on this list are invested in the hobby and will treat you well.

And then I sprung for a red Cobb, SGC 60, beautiful registration, perfect centering. There went my budget. I put money into the HOF and scarcer cards and gave up upgrading my lower grade commons once I realized my budget was getting away from me. I got burned out, can you believe it!

So, take your time, stick to your budget and buy what you like. Cards will be there when you are ready for them!

Have fun! Oh yeah, get yerself into Frank's Monster thread if you have not already...

Keith

Keith -

Thank you very much for the advice. Are you suggesting to go with graded for the entire set?

Definitely going to get myself into Frank's Monster thread. I've been reading through that thread. Pretty impressive what some people have.

frankbmd 11-29-2016 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jobu (Post 1606213)
I am not a set guy, but if you are starting fresh you might budget extra for years 1-2 and target HOFers. Prices on HOFers tend to rise more quickly than commons so it makes sense to get those first rather than last as the commons won't appreciate a ton. Also, not sure of your budget, but I like the idea suggested above for aiming to get one of each back type (factory #s included!) as you put together your set. Things like BL 460 and Brown Old Mill might never happen, but I still really enjoy having several different backs and I have never had anything tougher than a Carolina Brights.

In the long run you may find that a ton of commons appreciating a little is just as good as a little "pile" of HOFers appreciating a ton, if you consider ROI on a percentage basis rather than dollars and cents per card.

If you are a budget conscious set minded collector, buy what you can at the "right" price when it becomes available. Passing up a great deal on a Snodgrass because he didn't make the HOF seems unwise.

It is also likely that, in ten years or less, whatever your master plan is now, it will change.;)

nebboy 11-29-2016 01:51 PM

I'm doing T205 set which is much easier but I knew it would be a long term 10 year type project so I got a lot of Hofs and SP cards first. And commons when the price was right. I know over time the harder cards would go up faster that commons and wanted to tackle that ASAP. If I changed my mind I could finish a HOF or similar subset. I'm just over half away, on schedule and have most of the harder cards bought.

Bpm0014 11-29-2016 02:04 PM

There is no right or wrong way. I suggest that you go for the 520-524. Simply buy a card, put it in the binder, and check it off the list! That's what I did. 8 years later, I have 504 in the binder and counting..... Good luck!

wolf441 11-29-2016 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankbmd (Post 1606220)
It is also likely that, in ten years or less, whatever your master plan is now, it will change.;)

As usual, Frank said it best. No matter what your "ten year goal" is, life has a way of saying...."not so fast".

KMayUSA6060 11-29-2016 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wolf441 (Post 1606237)
As usual, Frank said it best. No matter what your "ten year goal" is, life has a way of saying...."not so fast".

Excellent Lee Corso reference.

You and others are right - this is so true.

drmondobueno 11-29-2016 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KMayUSA6060 (Post 1606219)
Keith -

Thank you very much for the advice. Are you suggesting to go with graded for the entire set?

Definitely going to get myself into Frank's Monster thread. I've been reading through that thread. Pretty impressive what some people have.

I am saying a graded card gives you a collectible that is darn near a commodity, with a clearly definable market value. And the flip does a pretty good job of maintaining that condition. Some cards are museum worthy pieces of art and are an honor to own, even for a short period. And yeah, I did the Registry bit for a while, not just with T 206 but a nice T201 and Clemente collection. But I digress.

To be honest, the Monster cards I presently own are nearly all ungraded, warts and all, and are a joy to handle. I am also a fan of cards with backstamps and handwriting. Just something about a card that was well loved over the last hundred or so years. Something timeless about that.

I did not get caught up in a firm minimum condition, as I found, for example, I cared little for the southern league cards or cards with print defects. I bought cards I liked and could afford. Registration is everything for me. Thankfully I am not OCD so centering I could overlook on occasion.

Take your time, enjoy the ride.

Sean 11-29-2016 08:56 PM

Lots of good advice here. As a couple guys already mentioned, if you get a chance to get a big card, go for it. It may kill your budget for a while, but the commons will always be available. The big cards will go up quicker, so get them if you can, and it's fun to have a couple big cards as a "centerpiece" for your collection, even if your collection is still small.

And if you find yourself losing focus, step aside for a few months. You can come back to the cards when you're ready again. It happens to all of us at one time or another.

Good luck, and feel free to PM if you have questions.

T206Collector 11-30-2016 12:40 AM

I encourage you to stay flexible with your approach. A rigid adherence to anything over 10 years is a challenge -- particularly when it's supposed to be a fun hobby. I've been collecting T206s for nearly 20 years now, and "completed" one set about 10 years in and am on the verge of doing it again -- I'm back up to 514, having sold off most of the first set back in 2007, but there is some overlap. My focus is still evolving, even this far in. And I even go through some months or years with little to no interest in T206s. When you give up, don't admit it; and when you're going strong don't think the fever will be consistent or last forever.

Remember, the Monster wants you to quit. Don't listen to it.

Bocabirdman 11-30-2016 04:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankbmd (Post 1606220)
In the long run you may find that a ton of commons appreciating a little is just as good as a little "pile" of HOFers appreciating a ton, if you consider ROI on a percentage basis rather than dollars and cents per card.

If you are a budget conscious set minded collector, buy what you can at the "right" price when it becomes available. Passing up a great deal on a Snodgrass because he didn't make the HOF seems unwise.

It is also likely that, in ten years or less, whatever your master plan is now, it will change.;)

This is a very true statement. Do not forget that over the next ten years your budget/life will change considerably. Also, as you move closer to the end of the Monster, you will likely find ways to extend the journey. Upgrades, switching to slabs, back runs and Lord knows what else, will seem like a great idea when YOU think of them. The friendships that you develop, the inbound bubble mailer addiction, even sharing your acquisitions in Frank's thread, all will make your Monster Chase a satisfying, lifelong pursuit. Good Luck, my friend. Enjoy the ride. :)

KMayUSA6060 12-02-2016 06:49 AM

Taking in everyone's advice, and morphing it to fit my restrictions as a younger, less-financially established collector, I have put together a pretty solid game-plan I think. When you crunch the numbers on approximately how expensive this set is, it truly becomes a life-long chase. I'm excited for that part. I'm not sure my fiancee of just over a week still wants to marry me (kidding, but she somewhat jokingly didn't like the end number I presented her with - and that was on the low end), but that's ok; she'll get over it.

I'm working on the T206 Cleveland team set first. I am at the very least going to knock out the commons/Flick and maybe Joss/Lajoie, but Cy Young might have to wait. I'm trying to knock out as many different and difficult/semi-difficult backs as possible.

Then my plan is to move to the horizontal cards. After that, I'll have to decide if I want to target another team (Louisville or St. Louis) or target backs.

Now, by taking people's advice, I'm also not limiting myself to these. If I see a deal that would be hard to pass up, I'm absolutely considering it. But it's a marathon, not a sprint, which is a saying I came up with and haven't heard before. ;)

Thank you all, again, for your input and advice! I really enjoy being a new(er) member of the Net54 community, which is by far the best community I've come across in the hobby.

mrvster 12-02-2016 07:57 AM

Kyle....
 
you have the right attitude and right approach!!

you will love the journey....

I love that you are looking at less condition more rarer back.....

some front combos with "common" backs are 1 of 1's or very limited in print....

the "rarer" backs" are so fun, even the "mid range backs ( hindu , pied 42's) are really fun....

try getting bargains on ebay......ones that are "buy it now" just listed....you can get rare cards worth over 1 k for pennies if you are lucky or quick enough.... Pete G and Bryan and others are a master of this....

email me, call, text, pm me......I will help with your journey...

but a lesson first.....:)....ugh, yes....

please don't let money or greed ever fuel your passion......people are worth more than cardboard! we all get over- zealous (sometimes, even myself)....

remember, we are only "leasing" these things while we are on earth, you can't take it with you;)

but your legacy will live on, and how you treat each others...


Peace


:)

KMayUSA6060 12-04-2016 09:23 AM

My fiancee and I got Chinese last night. I took this as a sign...

The Chinese Gods believe I can/will finish The Monster.

https://ton.twitter.com/1.1/ton/data...eq6Z.jpg:large

sandmountainslim 12-04-2016 10:00 AM

I just buy any T206 that I can afford and I like the looks of. Not scientific at all but it keeps me entertained.

Sean 12-04-2016 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KMayUSA6060 (Post 1607553)
My fiancee and I got Chinese last night. I took this as a sign...

The Chinese Gods believe I can/will finish The Monster.

https://ton.twitter.com/1.1/ton/data...eq6Z.jpg:large

What did the fortune cookie say?

KMayUSA6060 12-04-2016 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sean (Post 1607562)
What did the fortune cookie say?

What?

frankbmd 12-04-2016 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sean (Post 1607562)
What did the fortune cookie say?

Man who wears broad leaf is a proud member.

Bocabirdman 12-04-2016 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankbmd (Post 1607567)
Man who wears broad leaf is a proud member.

Funny...my last fortune cookie said, "He who wears a broad leaf is compensating for something.........".

Bocabirdman 12-04-2016 03:02 PM

The one before that read, "It doesn't matter if you have an American Beauty if you don't know how to Uzit.".:D

Joshchisox08 12-04-2016 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KMayUSA6060 (Post 1606128)
As I breakdown my collection and the goals I have for it, I'm looking at starting the chase of The Monster - 520 T206 set. I'm looking for some input on my approach.

Acquisition Strategy
Target 50+/- cards per year, for 10 years. Create a spreadsheet with estimated expenses per card, and of the 50 cards per year, acquire about 37-38 commons, and 13-12 uncommons/HoFers/important cards. Thoughts?

Grade
Not too concerned about corners. I'm more focused on the surface. 1-2 will work for the commons. SGC 1-3 for the important cards/HoFers, as long as the 1 is under-graded. Sound about right for a budget?

Backs
I don't think the backs are too important to me. I'm just going to target the best price I can find for each card. For those of you who have attempted/completed this set, would you recommend targeting a certain back, or does completing this set with a budget negate the importance of the backs?

Storage
Breaking it down, I want to put the commons in a binder, and the uncommons/important/HoFers in slabs. Thoughts?

Marketplace
Where is the best, most trustworthy place to buy raw T206?


Are there any other factors I'm overlooking? Thank you in advance for any and all advice.

Kyle let me just say if you need a spreadsheet.... Look no further. I'd challenge anyone to come up with a better spreadsheet than I have. I've put an astronomic amount of work into the one I've created.

There's no set amount on what to get. Just start with cards that you like first. Browse listings if you see a card in a grade you like going for cheap get it while you can. Some cards/player fluctuate and become much more expensive throughout time. You can wind up wishing you got a card when you had the chance. Titus, Durham, Adkins, etc.



Quote:

I got to 520 first without regard to back and have been upgrading/diversifying backs over the past year. I probably had about 50 of the rarer backs (PB, Sovereign, Overprint, Old Mill) when I completed the set and am now up to 125 or so.
This was my mentality going into it. I have for the most part disregarded backs. But obviously sometimes trying to get one when it's in range of a low price. The grade has effected the numerical grade of the card purchased but I wound up with an example of a back that I hadn't previously owned.

I've also made some minor upgrades along the way when, quite simply, the chance arose. Same instance I found that I was able to purchase a card that I already had in better condition cheaply. Then sold the lower grade of the two.

Joshchisox08 12-04-2016 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nebboy (Post 1606229)
I'm doing T205 set which is much easier but I knew it would be a long term 10 year type project so I got a lot of Hofs and SP cards first. And commons when the price was right. I know over time the harder cards would go up faster that commons and wanted to tackle that ASAP. If I changed my mind I could finish a HOF or similar subset. I'm just over half away, on schedule and have most of the harder cards bought.

I would love to tackle that set someday. If I ever finish T206 I'm going after the gold borders for sure.

unamuzd1 12-04-2016 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KMayUSA6060 (Post 1607040)
I'm not sure my fiancee of just over a week still wants to marry me (kidding, but she somewhat jokingly didn't like the end number I presented her with - and that was on the low end), but that's ok; she'll get over it.

I think this is the only flaw I've seen in your approach so far. ;)

You don't want your significant other to "get over" your passion, and you probably don't want to make it about the money (since, as you noted, your estimate will be low-end; prices on this set have steadily climbed, after all). These are little pieces of art and history; share them with her. Let her see your enthusiasm. Maybe she'll enjoy them. At the very least, she'll (hopefully) recognize that everyone has hobbies, and baseball cards are pretty harmless. And, in the case of t206, if you have to justify the spending, they're (a) very liquid, and (b) pretty steadily increasing in value, and not just for nice copies.

My wife really likes my t206s. Not as much as she likes her 1940 Play Balls, but she has her thing and I have mine. :)

Other than that, I'll just echo what others have said. Buy what you like, take time to appreciate your collection, and don't hesitate to ask questions. There is an absolutely ridiculous amount of knowledge on this board, and not just about t206.

Welcome to the addiction! And congrats on the engagement.

KMayUSA6060 12-04-2016 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by unamuzd1 (Post 1607657)
I think this is the only flaw I've seen in your approach so far. ;)

You don't want your significant other to "get over" your passion, and you probably don't want to make it about the money (since, as you noted, your estimate will be low-end; prices on this set have steadily climbed, after all). These are little pieces of art and history; share them with her. Let her see your enthusiasm. Maybe she'll enjoy them. At the very least, she'll (hopefully) recognize that everyone has hobbies, and baseball cards are pretty harmless. And, in the case of t206, if you have to justify the spending, they're (a) very liquid, and (b) pretty steadily increasing in value, and not just for nice copies.

My wife really likes my t206s. Not as much as she likes her 1940 Play Balls, but she has her thing and I have mine. :)

Welcome to the addiction! And congrats on the engagement.

Thank you very much! She is actually very interested in the hobby; she doesn't collect herself but is very interested in gaining knowledge and learning about what I'm collecting. I shared the estimated expense to mess with her, but she's actually happy that I'm going after it. She likes the investment idea, and enjoys watching me collect. She actually went to the National with me this summer for 2 whole days, and enjoyed herself as much as a below-average-sports-fan-but-loves-her-then-boyfriend could.


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