i got another question hope you don't mind

[Archive]

Posted By: <b>Les</b><p>Is this card worth grading? i don't know why the ground is purple. is it an error. does it hurt the value of my card and is it still worth getting graded? it seems you guys really know your stuff. and i could use the help<br />thanks, les<br /><br /><br /><br /><img src="http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/bunkfuton/zachwheat19141.jpg"><br /><br /><br /><img src="http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/bunkfuton/zachwheat19142.jpg"><br />

[Archive]

Posted By: <b>Zach S.</b><p>I'm going to have to say reprint. <br /><br />Zach S.

[Archive]

Posted By: <b>bcornell</b><p>Unequivocal fake. Or reprint. Or counterfeit. Those terms all get tossed around and mean the same thing: the card has no value.<br /><br />Frank Ward had a very informative explanation about CJ's several years ago, copied below.<br /><br />************************************************** *********************<br /><br />Here is some info on the Cracker Jack sets.<br /><br />1914's will say "144 Pictures" in the paragraph on back bottom, the 1915's will say "176 Pictures". The ACC# (American Card Catalog Number) for the 1914's is "E145-1", and 1915's is "E145-2".<br /><br />There are many many reprints (all worthless) made for the 1915 set, and a few for the 1914's. The easiest way to tell a reprint from an original is to look at the paper type and quality. Real cards are made from a thin lower quality construction paper, very porous in texture, with a rough surface if viewed closely on both front and back. All fakes Ive seen will be made from a thin higher quality smooth surfaced modern card stock. Also the fakes will have a smooth slightly glossy or waxy surface to the front, the real cards have no gloss or waxy look to them and will not cast a glare if turned at angle to a light.<br /><br />Another 100% positive way to tell a fake on the 1915's only ("176 Picture" series), is for some unknown reason, the backs on all 1915's have been printed upside down. In other words, the bottom edge of the back, is the same edge as the top of the front. I have yet to see a 1915 reprint with this upside down back.<br /><br />Another characteristic of all real Cracker Jack cards, is there is no white ink on the cards. The white or light parts of the uniform is the natural paper color. Most fakes have a white ink for the white parts of uniform, that doesnt match the white border of the card. Real cards will have the uniform blend perfectly into the white border where they meet."

[Archive]

Posted By: <b>Zach S.</b><p>Nice article. The print dots, purple ground, dark black print at the bottom are all dead give-aways. This card just looks all wrong.<br /><br />

[Archive]

Posted By: <b>Les</b><p>that really sucks. but anyways thanks for everything guys.

[Archive]

Posted By: <b>bcornell</b><p>Frank deserves thanks for that article - the point about the white ink is usually a dead giveaway.<br /><br />The thing about this CJ is that someone went to some trouble, almost certainly malicious, to make the card look old. They couldn't do anything about the purple color, but they dirtied the edges and back, rounded the corners and creased the card. I don't believe a card made in the 90's would wind up like that unless it was in the hands of a fraudster.<br /><br /><br />Bill

[Archive]

Posted By: <b>Zach S.</b><p>Bill, I agree. Someone obviously went through some effort to make the card look aged. <br /><br />Les, if you plan on getting into vintage cards I would recommend buying graded cards at first until you get used to noticing the tale-tell signs of forgeries. Keep up w/ this board as there are always informative threads about fakes and other fraudulent dealings. This board is a great source of knowledge (probably the best overall) when it comes to vintage cardboard.<br /><br />Regards and sorry about the CJ,<br />Zach

[Archive]

Posted By: <b>Les</b><p>i don't know if i want to show you guys any more of my cards. i need help though. i got some t206's that i want to get graded but it's expensive. if you guys want to look at them for me just let me know. if not i understand. although i bet this is a lot of fun for you guys. i know it would be for me if i was more educated. just let me know if you want to see my t206's. okay<br />thanks again. you guys have been great. what better way to spend a friday night right?<br /> les

[Archive]

Posted By: <b>Zach S.</b><p>Les,<br /><br />How many T206's do you have? If the number isn't too large I'd say post them in a thread and I'm sure you'll get all the help you could ever need (or even want). I don't think anyone would mind and if they do then they don't have to look. I'm by no means as knowledgable as a lot of the board members but I'll help if I can.<br /><br />Regards,<br />Zach S.<br /><br />E.T.A. Welcome to the board. <br /><br />E. (again) T.A. Les, if you're looking to pick up more vintage cards the B/S/T board is a good place to do it. It's a lot safer to pick up ungraded cards here than on eBay or somewhere else.

[Archive]

Posted By: <b>Les</b><p>i know this is going to sound funny but what's a "thread" sorry i don't know what that means<br />

[Archive]

Posted By: <b>Zach S.</b><p>Well, this is a message board and threads are the topics (like this is a thread you started about your CJ card). Posts are what individuals write in threads. Welcome to the world of the message board. <img src="/images/happy.gif" height=14 width=14><br /><br />