New to Pre War need help

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Posted By: <b>BillC</b><p>I just started picking up some 33 Goudey cards,I need to know about the black light test.I've read up on the test itself,but I need to know what type of black light to use.Will just any blacklight due?Thanks

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Posted By: <b>davidcycleback</b><p>You want a longwave blacklight, instead of shortwave. You can get a longwave for cheap, even on eBay. The lights come in different shapes and sizes, but as long as it's longwave, that's all that is required. A lot of the cheap examples are like handheld lights, and those are good.

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Posted By: <b>Anonymous</b><p>Can someone explain what the test does, and is it only applicable to goudeys? Thanks

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Posted By: <b>steve f</b><p>For accurate explaination, see Davids' valuable site.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.cycleback.com/blacklight.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow">http://www.cycleback.com/blacklight.html</a><br /><br />Spot the fake W517;<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://www.network54.com/Realm/tmp/1160921245.JPG">

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Posted By: <b>Frank Wakefield</b><p>There is a fellow on here somewhere who occasionally gets some little lights, and sells them at a quite reasonable cost... you need him to find this thread and contact you.<br /><br />And, there's a guy on here who's written about determining authenticity of old cards, a scholarly, well done article. Look back in the old threads and you may well find it. **** I just posted and see that the shortwinded post above mine mentioned Mr. Cycleback, he's the guy!! Smart stuff. Read it. ***<br /><br />On a simple level, brighteners have been added to paper since just after WW II, to make it look brighter and whiter. Kinda like brighteners in laundry detergent so your clothes look bright white clean. Old paper withought brighteners won't flouresce or glow when illuminated with black light. New paper will.<br /><br />Most reprints are on "new" paper which will flouresce.<br /><br />Mr. Lew Lipset published a newsletter, The Old Judge, 20 to 25 years ago. Someone wrote an indepth article about Goudey cards, and the paper on which they were printed. The article ran in 3 parts. The card paper is a sandwich of 3 papers, with the smoother nicer paper on the surface, and a cheaper pulp paper inside. Reprints are of the same consistancy. I keep meaning to "find" that article in my piles of stuff, and then post that I'll send out copies to those wishing it (maybe I'll scan it and email images if I get pc competent).<br /><br />At any rate, handling a few real Goudey cards goes a long way toward being able to identify the real from the phoney.<br /><br />A friend of mine once asked to see my cards. We started with Old Judge cards, flipped past the T3s, T201s, 2s, 4s, 5s, 6s, 7s, 9s - 15s, 22s, bunches of E cards, and when we got to the Goudeys he slowed down and proclaimed that "Those look like great old baseball cards, that's what I want to collect!" That same bug must have bitten you. Good luck chasing the rascals!

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Posted By: <b>gerard</b><p>I also started collecting goudeys about a year ago, after alot of research and buying raw goudeys on ebay i found your better off getting a card thats already graded.<br />( i like psa)i bought alot of raw cards sent them to get graded some turned out to be trimmed,and most of the time you end up paying 30.00 to 50.00 for a common then get it graded for 15.00, graded ex5 for common goes around 50.00, being already graded you know its real.

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Posted By: <b>Frank Wakefield</b><p>With due respect, I differ... for a lot of irrational reasons I'm strongly biased agaisnt graded cards. Oh, how I long for the day when all 38.5 million prewar cards are all finally graded, then won't the grading companies be rich, and won't the collectors lack knowledge of understanding the issues, only able to read labels on plastic...<br /><br />Seriously, if you collect raw cards, study the scans of the ones you'd buy online, haggle out a return policy up front when you buy, and bid on cards from reputable folks, then you'd be ok. And you'd learn more about your hobby, instead of relying on the alledged knowledge of some grading service. So I'm all for buying raw cards. I have bought a few slabbed cards, most I bust out. You'll be much better able to understand the issues and evaluate them if you deal with them raw. <br /><br />I will concede that there are many collectors adamant about collecting slabbed cards only. I'd rather spend my money on more cards, than on slabbing. <br /><br />If you are going to buy raw cards, let me know, and I'll make time to look for those Old Judge articles. IF you're going for slabbed cards only it would be a waste of your time to read it.

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Posted By: <b>Gilbert Maines</b><p>In case anyone is uncertain regarding which of those Ruths are fake: it is the one on the left.<br /><br />The one which is lighter.<br /><br />The one that Steve did not put in his binder page.<br /><br />The one that Bill Spigler had made with a W517 printed in the lower left border of the card.

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Posted By: <b>davidcycleback</b><p>The key for beginners is that black lights are easy to use and you don't need any scienctific background to use them effectively. <br /><br />A related article on fake detection for starting collectors is: <br /><a href="http://www.cycleback.com/baseballcards/seven.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow">http://www.cycleback.com/baseballcards/seven.html</a><br /><br />My other recommendation of new collectors wishing to buy a raw Goudey Ruth or such, is to purchase from reputable sellers. The 33 Goudey Ruth has been reprinted many times, so it's best to buy from a good seller. Many folks who post on this board would qualify as good sellers.

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Posted By: <b>BillC</b><p>Thanks for the advice .I have been collecting a long time,just got back into the Hobby a few years ago.My collection is Rookies 1948-Present.Now I'm looking to go back in time and start Collecting some Pre-war.