t206 dark rim

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Posted By: <b>steve</b><p>i just got my cycleback book in the mail and was reading it and on page 46, it says if there is a dark rim around the letter, it is a sure sign that the card is vintage, would that be the easiest way for someone like myself, who is just learning authenticity, to tell vintage from reprint.<br /> thank you,<br /> steve

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Posted By: <b>Paul Griggs</b><p>There is no single way to determine authenticity. A dark rim on a t206 letter is helpful in determining authenticity, but its not very helpful for example on a 1933 Goudey. There are more than a few things to check when authenticating, & it can vary depending on the card issue & printing technique. One thing for sure, keep reading this board, & you'll keep learning. I know I do. <br /><br /><br /><br />Goudey<br /><br />[<img src="http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e195/pgisme/1933goudey.jpg"><br /><br /><br />T206<br /><br />IMG]<img src="http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e195/pgisme/t206.jpg">[/IMG]

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Posted By: <b>steve</b><p>thank you, i am learning more and more about the cards everyday. the cycleback book i just got is very informative. between asking you people questions and reading and research, i am getting more understanding of the differences

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Posted By: <b>Paul Griggs</b><p>David's cycleback book & website are very helpful. Also, after a few years of handling & studying cards, you'll find one of your most powerful authenticating tools will be your gut instinct. Your first instinct will be correct seemingly about 99% of the time. Always trust it, but of course verify if needed. I like to use David's print identification technique along with other checks. A good digital microscope is very handy to have around.

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Posted By: <b>davidcycleback</b><p>The T206 issue is a case where if you have a handful of cheap commons you can identify reprints by comparison. The reprints will be distinctly different in more than one way (thickness, gloss, opacity, etc), and may be obviously different at first glance from two yards away. Many reprints in an online auction look bad, or at least dubious, and you're just looking at a picture.<br /><br />For the beginning collector, buying a variety of low grade and cheaper cards is a way to see what you like and, whether you realize it or not at the time, gain an eye for what the genuine cards look like. Instead of starting off by buying a PSA10 1951 Bowman Willie Mays, buy a shoe box of beat up 1950s cards. Once you've handled and enjoyed a pile of cheap 1951 Bowman commons, putting them in your bike spokes and fliping them across the room and showing them to your friends and resting them on the dog's back, you'll have no trouble identifying the reprinted Mays or Mickey Mantle at the card show-- especially if you have a pair of beat up commons in your back pocket. The exeprienced human eye is a advanced scientific tool, and by enjoying and handling and looking at cards you are training your eyes. I think it's dubious practice for a new collector to start by buying only graded cards. I'm not sure how one can learn how to authenticate cards if the only cards one ever sees are entombed between slabs of plastic. How you can gain an eye for the gloss, texture, thickness and edges of 1951 Bowmans or 1986 Fleer basketball or 1971 Topps when they are in a plastic holder is beyond me. Though I suppose one can become an expert in the gloss, texture, thickness and edges of plastic holders.