View Full Version : Would you do it?
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02-15-2005, 07:23 AM
Posted By: <b>Jimi</b><p>My 1961 Topps set could grade at SGC 80s or higher if I sent them all in (at least the ones that I knew would grade that high....over 350+ of them). Question is, if you were in this predicament, would you send in those cards to have graded? The cards are about $5 book value for commons, so I'd have to spend more on them than their book value, but in the end is it worth it? I mean, would this even be worth an installment on a future Mastronet auction? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!<br><br>Jimi
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02-15-2005, 07:36 AM
Posted By: <b>Scott Forrest</b><p>...
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02-15-2005, 07:53 AM
Posted By: <b>Max Weder</b><p>Scott<br /><br />You never know about Goodwill (or at least before ebay you never did).<br /><br />My friend found a beautiful Christy Mathewson youth's glove there for $2 in the late 1980's. It's incredibly pristine. It would look very nice in my office with the Big Six game cover and board, but unbelieveably, my friend refuses to give it to me.<br /><br />And I'd keep that Don Mattingly store model bat. Every 100 or so years, moustaches come back into style in baseball, so you never know.<br /><br />Max
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02-15-2005, 08:04 AM
Posted By: <b>dan mckee</b><p>WOW! Are you in a mood today Scott? I hope everything is ok with you. Answer to the post, if you submit the entire set to SGC, you may be able to negotioate $5 per card. I am not sure that I would have the commons graded but then again, I do not know what graded 1961 commons sell for. Dan.
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02-15-2005, 08:17 AM
Posted By: <b>David Vargha</b><p>"No" NM/MT is the standard for cards (other than superstars)from the 60's as far as grading goes. Keep them raw and save yourself the grading fees.<br><br>DavidVargha@hotmail.com
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02-15-2005, 08:30 AM
Posted By: <b>Scott Forrest</b><p>I let Dan get to me - I apologize.<br /><br />As far as the header thread - this board has changed to "anything goes" and Dan, Dave, etc. are obviously fine with that.<br /><br />I'll re-join when the focus changes. Later.
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02-15-2005, 08:35 AM
Posted By: <b>dan mckee</b><p>my panties? this is the 2nd time you have attacked me out of the blue. If you have a problem with me, kindly take it privately, you have my email. thanks Dan.
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02-15-2005, 08:42 AM
Posted By: <b>Lee Behrens</b><p>I would only recommend doing it to the stars if you plan on reselling them. The commons are a major crap shot. I had most of my stars and the really nice mid # 57s graded for resale. Any of the commons 84 and above I was fine but anything less I can't get anywhere close to recovering the cost of grading. <br /><br />Another reason to get them graded would be for protection if this is what you are looking for go for it, there is no better way to protect your cards.<br /><br />I hope this helps,<br /><br />Lee
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02-15-2005, 09:07 AM
Posted By: <b>Scott Forrest</b><p>I simply forgot who I was dealing with. Again, my apologies for forgetting my target audience. Let's move on.
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02-15-2005, 09:09 AM
Posted By: <b>dan mckee</b><p>ok, but who were you dealing with? care to explain?
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02-15-2005, 09:36 AM
Posted By: <b>Jimi</b><p>...the response. I didn't really want to do grade them all anyway. I had one grade an 88 and a couple of 84s just to see if my assumption was correct. Looks like I'll just keep the set then. Thanks!!<br><br>Jimi
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02-15-2005, 10:10 AM
Posted By: <b>steve k</b><p>There has always been a lot of high grade raw 1961 Topps Baseball cards out there versus other late 50s to early 60s Topps Baseball cards. I never heard a "perfect" explanation for this but I imagine it had something to do with the homerun race with Mantle-Maris during that year and probable increased sales and interest in collecting the cards.
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02-15-2005, 10:19 AM
Posted By: <b>Bob Marquette</b><p>I have been wondering the same thing about my condition sensitive 1971 black border Topp set. I am contemplating this set which was put together in the early 80's card by card and is a solid NM or better. Real blazer. I see what the stars go for in PSA 8s and 9s and even 10s and wonder if it might increase the set price if I had some of the stars and semi-stars graded. Any thoughts?
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02-15-2005, 10:34 AM
Posted By: <b>warshawlaw</b><p>I have a little experience grading out these cards since I have been actively working a high grade set for several years (funny, doesn't feel that long but it is). If you are going to submit, they had better be real blazers or they will draw 80's from SGC. I submitted a bunch of nm cards and every one came back an 80. Taking that lesson to heart, the next batch I sent in were a dozen semi-high and high numbers I had pulled from literally thousands of cards I went through at several shows. These came back 88-92-96. In short, SGC shows no mercy on these cards. If you want to make it worthwhile to slab them, they'd better be crystal clear (the set has a lot of very subtle registration problems--compare several version of the same card and you will see what I mean), centered and very black edged.
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02-15-2005, 10:55 AM
Posted By: <b>Greg</b><p><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v70/gb-shop/Newcamera008.jpg"><br />Complete box, unused gameboard, uncut player namesheet (w/Ruth). I think the image of Matty on the "spinner" is the same as his '14 CJ pose. Sorry for crappy pics.<br />Greg B.