PDA

View Full Version : Pinback Question


Archive
04-27-2008, 07:28 PM
Posted By: <b>Aaron Patton</b><p><br />...a bit of a Chaoian question, but, what is the board consensus regarding pinbacks with missing pins?<br /><br />Obviously, depending on the issue, value/desirability would go hand-in-hand with pinbacks that were completely intact. However, as a novice collector, I'm trying to figure out whether I really mind either way.<br /><br />For those of you who collect, does a missing back discourage you from a purchase. Typically, what sort of devaluation should be considered when pricing a pin-less pinback?<br /><br />Hopefully not too remidial a question. As I get deeper and deeper into collecting, its one that I'd be interested (from those who know much more than I) hearing some input on!<br /><br />Thanks in advance,<br />

Archive
04-27-2008, 09:06 PM
Posted By: <b>Paul Muchinsky</b><p>Aaron,<br /><br />A fair question that is more complex than you might think. There are several types of pinning mechanisms. The most common type is a springpin. It is held in place by the tension on the metal spring pressing against the inside rim of the pin, called the "collett". These pins were very inexpensive to make, and have the added feature they readily lend themselves to being removed, adding a ribbon and/or dangle to enhance the visual appeal of the pin, and then snapping the pin back into place. A pinback that is missing its original springpin has no reduction in the pinback's value.<br /><br />It gets more complicated with pins that were never intended to be removed. Another manufacturing technology involves a pin that resembles somewhat of a safety pin. These pins were inserted either by soldering them directly to the back of the face plate, or more commonly, using a double-plate technology, where two small holes were cut into the second plate, and the pin itself is positioned in between the two plates, and only the two ends of the pin are visible. If a pinback has this type of pinning mechanism, the only way the pin could be "missing" is if at some point in the pin's history the pin broke off. Yet another type of pinning mechanism exists for very large pinbacks (6" or greater in diameter), and again, these were never intended for removal. Finally, in the very early years of pinbacks, some were made with a solid back. In this case the pinning mechanism is literally a straight pin that was soldered vertical to the pinback's image. These pins are extremely old, and the pin itself is fragile. It is not uncommon to find such pinbacks with these pins (called "needle pins") broken off.<br /><br />In summary, if a pinback was manufactured with a technology that permitted the pin (a springback) to be readily removed, the absence of such a pin has no effect on the pinback's value, because the missing pin can be easily replaced with one of a similar vintage. However, for pinbacks that were designed with non-detachable pins, their absence would lower the value of the pinback.

Archive
04-27-2008, 10:15 PM
Posted By: <b>Rhett Yeakley</b><p>I echo what Paul has said regarding the pin mechanism being the determining factor in whether the value is affected.<br /><br />With pins such as Cameo Pepsin's a missing pin doesn't mean too much as they are the same size as all the common American Pepsin pinbacks and the pin can easily be replaced by a pin from another series. However, an example of a pinback that would be affected are the extremely tough Stenzel's Rooter Buttons. Example of mechanism below...<br /><img src="http://www.starsofthediamond.com/stenzelbacks.JPG"><br /><br />As you can see from the scan the pin itself is imbedded into the rim which would be near impossible to replace once missing or broken. <br />-Rhett<br /><br /><br /> <br /><br />

Archive
04-28-2008, 09:28 AM
Posted By: <b>Aaron Patton</b><p>Dr. Muchinsky, thank you for your very insightful response. I leaned towards believing backless pins could be re-backed. But, in the cardboard world, repairs, re-builds, etc. are so fervently looked down upon...I wasn't sure what the feeling was amongst collectors. <br /><br />I guess as is the case in most all hobbies, you collect what you like. If I happen to find something that I like, I'm willing to comprimise the condition/backing if its something I've never seen before.<br /><br />I've set aside my life-long cardboard addiction for my current love of pinbacks. Dr. Muchinsky, your reference has been in my hands everyday...since its purchase (3) months ago. What a great hobby!<br /><br />Rhett, thank you for posting your examples. Much appreciated.

Archive
04-28-2008, 12:36 PM
Posted By: <b>Randall Adams</b><p>What's the consensus on P2 pins with a silver metal back as opposed to a natural tarnished patina? I'm of the opinion that the pins with the silver metal backs have been sanded down. I have also noted a few highly graded pins with the silver backs.<br /><br /><img BORDER="5" src=http://www.cincitec.com/images/ebay/54/p2-pin.JPG>

Archive
04-28-2008, 05:09 PM
Posted By: <b>Paul Muchinsky</b><p>Aaron,<br /><br />Thank you for your kind words about my book. I think the hobby would be in substantial agreement about replacing spring pins. Where it gets much more controversial is adding ribbons and dangles to pinbacks to enhance their visual appeal. I have seen some "amazing specimens" over the years, as a 1940s pinback adorned with a type of ribbon that wasn't developed until the 1960s. My favorite purveyor of such material uses a pair of pinking shears to create a delightful rough edge on a synthetic ribbon, and tops it off with the same string (on every "loaded" pin) that holds a plastic dangle (e.g., plastic glove or bat) that was made many years after the pinback. The mis-match is so obvious it would be like putting a pair of sunglasses on a bust of George Washington.

Archive
04-28-2008, 05:16 PM
Posted By: <b>Paul Muchinsky</b><p>Randall,<br /><br />Don't get me started on grading pinbacks. If you think a collett has been sanded, view it under a strong magnifying glass. Sandpaper will leave fine scratches in the metal. Anyone who attempts to clean a collett with chemicals had better have the fingers of a surgeon. That which cleans metal can damage plastic (celluloid) and (back) paper.