Mid-Grade Collectors

[jchcollins]

Hi all,

I would be interested in hearing from any of you that collect 1950's and 60's cards - particularly stars and HOF'ers...who have made a conscious decision to collect mid- or lower grade cards over the higher-end PSA stuff - and why. Any nuances to what changed your mind, what types of grades you go for today - what attributes of condition bother you (corners, creases, centering...) and maybe which you have found anymore do not and is that surprising?

I've always been more or less in a "lesser" range myself (I think a PSA 6 is a very nice vintage card, a 3 from the 50's is probably going to be acceptable) due to the desire to stick within a reasonable budget, plus that's what I grew up collecting as a kid in the 80's before the advent of third party graders - and honestly for much of that time I simply didn't know any better. The vast majority of vintage cards in shops in the 80's and early 90's were not NM cards.

Thoughts? Thanks.

[jason.1969]

Maybe too easy an answer but I collect raw in the VG range since it offers a nice compromise between cost and visual appeal.

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[commishbob]

I'm pretty much in agreement with Jason. I build sets (58 to 62+70) to put in binders so raw is fine. I target VG or better. Actually, my prefered grade is LG or Looks Good. If I'm happy with how the card looks in its page and I paid a price I'm OK with then I'm satisfied. Creases will put a card in the 'upgrade needed' list before any other flaw. I have no problem with off-centered cards and I have quite a few with stray marks on the reverse.

I'd guess that except for my '62 set the overall grade on those I've collected would be close to EX. There are a few exceptions due to cost (my '58 Williams is F at best) or sentimental value ('59 Gibson survived from my youth, it's in poor condition). The '62 Topps set has proved to be a challenge to build in decent shape. I suspect that when I'm done it will be no better than F-G overall.

I worked hard building them and love these sets too much to ever sell them so future value isn't a concern. I just want to be able to flip thru the binder and rekindle memories of being a kid.

[Rickyy]

My raw 1970 - 1979 Topps sets in binders are mostly VG-EX+ probably if they are graded...but I like them that way.

My type card collections are mostly slabbed. avg no more than PSA 3 or 4 on the avg (some nicer others lower). It's cheaper and allows me to buy more for my collection without breaking the bank.

Ricky Y

[jchcollins]

Thanks guys. Glad to know I'm not the only one. I belong to a PSA group on Facebook, where there are routinely ridiculously high grade, PSA 8 and above vintage cards posted. I feel pretty down to earth when looking at that.

[nat]

I (usually) draw the line at intentional damage. Tape residue, trimmed borders, moustaches drawn on players, that sort of thing. Honest wear doesn't bother me.

[Hxcmilkshake]

I collect the mid grade. VG and up, Crease free if possible. Then centering. But Im a cheapskate so if its dirt cheap I ll consider those too. I stay away from writing, tape, and paper loss. But if I ever venture back to prewar ill consider those too.

I have found a couple nice VG PSA 3 that have strong eye appeal that I bought and busted out of the insipid holder. Those have been my best buys.

A guy on here sold a Mantle 52 PSA 1 that I dreamt about for 3 days it looked that nice, so yeah like others have stated eye appeal is everything.

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[Exhibitman]

Lemme see, I can have one card in a PSA 8 case or a lower grade version of that card plus a whole buncha other cards too. I prefer the latter. I also remember the cards from the 1960s and earlier in lower grades, so they don't look right to me when they are crisp and clean.

[jchcollins]

Lemme see, I can have one card in a PSA 8 case or a lower grade version of that card plus a whole buncha other cards too. I prefer the latter. I also remember the cards from the 1960s and earlier in lower grades, so they don't look right to me when they are crisp and clean.

Adam, I recently found and enjoyed a thread you had commented on about O/C cards and graded O/C cards. Gave me some good perspective in collecting particularly issues like ‘67 and ‘70 Topps baseball, where a collection focused on better centering is clearly going to be a real bear even if you can afford it. Centering was not so much an aspect of “pack fresh” that was important when I collected as a kid, so not sure how it became that way now suddenly when I’m in my 40’s. I don’t like miscut cards, but will agree with you there is some tolerable room with centering to still get nice cards (and at bargains) and not be quite so anal...

-John

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[jason.1969]

Was just browsing on the Bay. For $500 the PSA 9 collector gets a 1973 Willie Mays. And I end up with...

1. Same card in decent shape.
2. 1957 Ted Williams
3. 1955 Hank Aaron
4. 1956 Bob Feller
5. 1953 Stan Musial
6. 1956 Roberto Clementehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180522/8829d289b7176475ac82f5be27c50fc6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180522/67b5d586325ac758d5659d019cbb5be7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180522/85f47a8e57738d8ed59cef3c35adb297.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180522/e9895350b8069ebf55e94177763a2a43.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180522/58efc8934c03238933553c1a05eb14aa.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180522/bfecab8d5f73e6e6735e96a5ef8e90b1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180522/9aaaf903c40acc46f7f0772062245f2c.jpg

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[Nick55]

I'm in my late 40's and have been collecting off and on since I was 9 years old. I've come full circle, starting out collecting in the VG or worse area as kid, moving to NM/Mint as I got older and earned more, and now in the last two years or so back to VG to VG/EX. For me, the best balance between eye appeal and the economic and time cost it takes to acquire cards is best at about VG/VG-EX condition. I don't have the time or patience (or the budget for that matter) to search for high grade cards, and frankly, I don't need them to be high grade to be satisfied. The other factor is that too many times I purchased cards online that looked to be high grade and were advertised as such only to be disappointed to have them be mid-grade once I had them in hand. I guess pursuing high grade stopped being fun and too much like work.

[pokerplyr80]

I look for low to mid grade cards with excellent centering and eye appeal. Great way to save some money.

[Peter_Spaeth]

Very nice Jackie.

[Marchillo]

A nice VGEX is my perfect card for eye appeal and value. My base Mantle collection 56-69 ranges from 2 to 4.5. If I went for 7’s I’d probably only have 3 or 4 of the late 60’s ones and none from 56-59.

[jchcollins]

My ‘56 #135 with some paper loss on the bottom right corner, but otherwise VG-ish and nearly perfectly centered. This card in a PSA 8 centered is between $10 and 15K. I figure on the Bay mine is probably a $350 card...not sure what real value I gave up for it at the time, I got this in a trade when I was about 13. But also to the point of just how exponentially different in price tag truly high grade vintage can get. You guessed it...I’ll take my card!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180523/3fa208660dfb7f25f836f7206fb1be9b.jpg


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[seanofjapan]

I'm basically in total agreement with what....everyone else here has said.

I'll take lots of VG-Ex cards over 1 or 2 Nrmt-mt cards anyday.

I would also add that there are a couple of ways in which, aside from price, mid grade cards are objectively superior to high grade ones.

1) You can actually hold them in your hands without freaking out about your breath affecting the molecular structure of the corners (or to whatever extent condition conscious people go with obsessing about such things). I love flipping through cards. If I had a pile of 56 Topps cards in high grade I would be very uncomfortable doing that, but with a bunch of mid grade ones I can go crazy. Great! (behold my flipping through a pile of 54 Bowmans without care: https://baseballcardsinjapan.blogspot.jp/2013/09/a-pile-of-1954-bowman-and-why-i-collect.html )

2) The cards actually look like they have a story behind them. When you see a beat up old card, you know that some kid really liked that card back in the day, maybe brought it to school in a back pocket or something, flipped through them with friends, etc etc. Its very compelling! A stack of pack fresh cards in contrast are boring - they've just sat on a shelf somewhere for the entirety of their existence. Nobody ever loved them enough to get them worn out. Its extremely depressing actually.

[hcv123]

But not entirely.

Firstly I will say that centering, surface (creases, etc), and registration are WAY more important to me than corners. Moving on - it really depends on the card and it's scarcity. For readily available cards, I draw the line somewhere between 7 and 8 (rarely 8.5) - The price jump on most readily available cards from 8 to 9 is usually astronomical with often times very little difference in appearance. Add to that the inherent subjectivity to the process and I as I'm sure many of you have seen lower grade cards that look better than the same card at higher grade. There is consideration to value and resale and I believe that lower grades of more readily available cards over time have less of a chance to hold their value than higher graded equivalents.

Now onto more obscure or rare cards - to me the card trumps the condition on these - not only would I jump on a mid grade copy of some, but would be overjoyed for almost any copy - I do have a handful in my collection and love them as much or more than my more highly graded more commonly found cards.

I am working on mid grade Pirates team sets from 1952-1973 with my kids - The only ones we have or are getting graded are the 1952 Groat rookie and the 1952 High numbers(4's-6's) - the rest are/will be raw. Let me tell you - trying to find those 52's centered without surface damage is quite a challenge! Anybody know someone who wants to sell a mid grade 1952 Bartirome for the price of the common it should be without the one crazy guy buying them all!?

[profholt82]

I don't really care about the money side of the hobby. Slabbing cards and investing and all that just doesn't interest me. That's not to disparage collectors who are more into the investing aspect of the hobby, it's just not for me, that's all. I tend to go after affordable copies of cards I like that look good displayed on my bookshelf or wherever. I'm not super picky or anything, but I generally prefer centered cards without creases. I don't have any graded cards, but I'd say that most of the more expensive 50s and 60s cards in my collection would probably rate in the 3 to 6 range for the most part.

[Empty77]

I (usually) draw the line at intentional damage. Tape residue, trimmed borders, moustaches drawn on players, that sort of thing. Honest wear doesn't bother me.

?? I asked about the seemingly ubiquitous mustaches when I inherited my older brother's collection; he assured me all the players back then had them---not true?

[DeanH3]

Mid grade 50's with nice appeal are a great value and nice little gems. Centering is a must for me, corners not so much.

http://www.net54baseball.com/picture.php?albumid=813&pictureid=22528

http://www.net54baseball.com/picture.php?albumid=813&pictureid=24248

http://www.net54baseball.com/picture.php?albumid=813&pictureid=21279

http://www.net54baseball.com/picture.php?albumid=813&pictureid=20911

[jchcollins]

Mid grade 50's with nice appeal are a great value and nice little gems. Centering is a must for me, corners not so much.



http://www.net54baseball.com/picture.php?albumid=813&pictureid=22528



http://www.net54baseball.com/picture.php?albumid=813&pictureid=24248



http://www.net54baseball.com/picture.php?albumid=813&pictureid=21279



http://www.net54baseball.com/picture.php?albumid=813&pictureid=20911



Nice cards.


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[Marchillo]

My ‘56 #135 with some paper loss on the bottom right corner, but otherwise VG-ish and nearly perfectly centered. This card in a PSA 8 centered is between $10 and 15K. I figure on the Bay mine is probably a $350 card...not sure what real value I gave up for it at the time, I got this in a trade when I was about 13. But also to the point of just how exponentially different in price tag truly high grade vintage can get. You guessed it...I’ll take my card!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180523/3fa208660dfb7f25f836f7206fb1be9b.jpg


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Really nice Mantle - Mine is a PSA 2. I got mine on Amazon. Basically I had a lot of credit card points and even though the conversion rate on Amazon sucks, I was able to obtain the card without spending a penny. Mine is nicely centered as well but has some creasing and other issues. I'd say it presents very well for the grade. But to get that card in say a PSA 5/6 it would probably be the only purchase I made for 6 months!

I do agree with one poster - A 1956 Ted Williams in PSA 4 condition is great for me but not really a fan of say a 1975 Robin Yount in a PSA 4. That card is still cheap in PSA 7 lets say. It's all about price point for me and for 99% of cards from 1954 to 1969 I can buy cards in VGEX condition without a problem. Some exceptions would be the 56 Mantle, 55 Koufax/Clemente etc.

[jchcollins]

Really nice Mantle - Mine is a PSA 2. I got mine on Amazon. Basically I had a lot of credit card points and even though the conversion rate on Amazon sucks, I was able to obtain the card without spending a penny. Mine is nicely centered as well but has some creasing and other issues. I'd say it presents very well for the grade. But to get that card in say a PSA 5/6 it would probably be the only purchase I made for 6 months!

I do agree with one poster - A 1956 Ted Williams in PSA 4 condition is great for me but not really a fan of say a 1975 Robin Yount in a PSA 4. That card is still cheap in PSA 7 lets say. It's all about price point for me and for 99% of cards from 1954 to 1969 I can buy cards in VGEX condition without a problem. Some exceptions would be the 56 Mantle, 55 Koufax/Clemente etc.

Thanks. My Mantle has no creases, but the corners are pretty rough. I would expect it to get either a 1 or an A for the paper loss, but have no plans to send it in.

I would agree that for most 50's and early 60's cards, VG-EX 4 is a very nice grade. Most 4's are not going to have noticeable creasing, generally they just have corner wear or other issues that are not acceptable for a 5. I have a '61 Topps Aaron right now that is a perfectly centered 4.5 and one of my favorite cards. It was really at that sweet spot where eye-appeal and price tag met.

Will agree with you that it's hard for me to look at VG or lower range once out of the 1950-60's. I'm considering doing the 1970 Topps set, and those cards in a 3 or 4 look a bit rough. The good thing of course is that it's also cheaper to get 70's cards in the 6+ range. Also I think going back to the 50's for lower grades - if you think about it, the cards then were the bigger size and the card stock was better / thicker. I think that's why some of them don't look so awful in grades 2 - 4. By the 1970's the card stock sucked in comparison and those cards got nastier quicker.

[jchcollins]

This guy...

[DeanH3]

Nice cards.


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Thank you John.

Your '61 Aaron is sweet. Perfect example of what you said earlier, the 4 range is the sweet spot for great looking cards and affordability.

[darkhorse9]

I may be in the minority, but I grew up thinking T-206 and 1933 Goudeys were made with rounded corners.

I've seen mint examples of both and they just look plain wrong to me.

[Exhibitman]

Exactly. I want 1970s cards looking like they did when I pulled them out of the packs as a kid but older cards are supposed to look old. Though every once in a while I see a higher grade card and gotta get it.

https://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1961%20Morrell%20Koufax%20PSA%207.5.jpg

[jchcollins]

I may be in the minority, but I grew up thinking T-206 and 1933 Goudeys were made with rounded corners.



I've seen mint examples of both and they just look plain wrong to me.



I can understand the sentiment. I knew they weren’t made that way but there are certainly some still fine looking T cards and Goudeys with rounded corners...


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[JollyElm]

Yowza!! Talk about getting smacked in the face with reality!!! As a Mets and Mays lover, I was recently looking at that very card to possibly consider buying it (or hopefully a cheaper one) when ebay has another coupon code offering...but, man, that's a hard pill to swallow when I can see what I could get for the same money. Bravo.

Was just browsing on the Bay. For $500 the PSA 9 collector gets a 1973 Willie Mays. And I end up with...

1. Same card in decent shape.
2. 1957 Ted Williams
3. 1955 Hank Aaron
4. 1956 Bob Feller
5. 1953 Stan Musial
6. 1956 Roberto Clementehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180522/8829d289b7176475ac82f5be27c50fc6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180522/67b5d586325ac758d5659d019cbb5be7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180522/85f47a8e57738d8ed59cef3c35adb297.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180522/e9895350b8069ebf55e94177763a2a43.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180522/58efc8934c03238933553c1a05eb14aa.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180522/bfecab8d5f73e6e6735e96a5ef8e90b1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180522/9aaaf903c40acc46f7f0772062245f2c.jpg

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[CobbSpikedMe]

Hey guys,

I collect mostly low grade stuff. My collector friends and I typically trade or send each other cards without condition requirements at all. If we get a nice card from someone its rare.

I like the look of lower grade cards as they show the life of the card. There is something to be said of a really nice mint vintage card for sure. But like Adam said, I'd rather have a bunch of lower grade cards than one really nice one for the same price.

I think budgets dictate what we collect as well. I can't afford a high grade 56 Mantle, but the low grade one I have makes me happy all the same.

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

This is a really encouraging thread. Thanks for sharing, guys. If I had more time, I have a few lower/mid-grade cards of my own that I could share. It is nice to see that I am not alone.

[Nick55]

I think budgets dictate what we collect as well.

This is a big part of it for me. A secondary factor is that in some cases, I could afford to buy higher grade, but just don't want to spend a ton of money on a card. The fact is that 99.9 percent of the cards in my 1950's to early 1970's portion of my collection cost less than $100 apiece, and most of those less than $20. I'm not comfortable spending more than that.

I've heard quotes like, "Buy the highest grade you can afford" and stuff like that. I follow a different path - "buy just nice enough of a condition that makes me happy." For 1950's through early 70's, that condition is VG/VG-EX, and in some cases, even poor/fair will do. For the rest of the '70's, EX-MT/NM (not difficult to find in this condition and generally very inexpensive at well less than 1 buck for a common). For the 1980's+, NM/NM-MT.

[irv]

Over 30 yrs ago I received 148 1952 Topps cards from my Father. Since 2016, when i joined this site, I have been picking away trying my best to add to it as much as I can.

Most he gave me are in the 2 to 4 range with maybe a few 5's here and there. When I purchase cards I normally purchase in that range as they are more affordable and it keeps with the theme/condition of the cards he gave me.

I would love one/a few 8+ graded 52 Topps cards just to say I have one/some, but at the same time, knowing most are out of reach dollar wise, I am glad to be able to purchase more cards than what likely one of those would cost.

When I first joined the site, I didn't concern myself with centering much, but since then, I try my best to find decent centered cards if I can. Top to bottom bothers me a lot less than side to side centering but creases, unless they are subtle or almost invisible in scans, are usually a no go for me.

Currently I am around 306 cards and counting (FlickR link below) and I add here and there when money says I can. :)

[jchcollins]

Another thought - for me at least, the definitions surrounding "mid-grade" seem to have shifted over time, at least certainly for older cards. Depending on who you are you probably think of mid-grade in the PSA 3 to 6 range. I don't know about the rest of you, but for me in the vast majority of cases - a PSA 6 is going to be a damn nice vintage card. No creases, sharp corners, and decent centering. When I was collecting as a kid, anything with the term "Excellent" in the grade was just that - and old cards that were "excellent" or better were at the higher end of the spectrum. I remember back then, my main concern with 1950's and 60's cards were that they be devoid of major, ugly creases. Even so, I had and loved some cards that did have those creases. Corners were of lesser concern, I did prefer that the cards have 4 of them. Centering I don't recall being something I was concerned about at all as a kid, I recently went back and found some snapshots of some parts of of my childhood collection that I no longer own, and was surprised at how badly centered certain vintage cards that I had and loved were.

I guess it's all about perspective and beauty in the eye of the beholder.

[MCoxon]

Another thought - for me at least, the definitions surrounding "mid-grade" seem to have shifted over time, at least certainly for older cards. Depending on who you are you probably think of mid-grade in the PSA 3 to 6 range. I don't know about the rest of you, but for me in the vast majority of cases - a PSA 6 is going to be a damn nice vintage card. No creases, sharp corners, and decent centering. When I was collecting as a kid, anything with the term "Excellent" in the grade was just that - and old cards that were "excellent" or better were at the higher end of the spectrum. I remember back then, my main concern with 1950's and 60's cards were that they be devoid of major, ugly creases. Even so, I had and loved some cards that did have those creases. Corners were of lesser concern, I did prefer that the cards have 4 of them. Centering I don't recall being something I was concerned about at all as a kid, I recently went back and found some snapshots of some parts of of my childhood collection that I no longer own, and was surprised at how badly centered certain vintage cards that I had and loved were.

I guess it's all about perspective and beauty in the eye of the beholder.

i was literally going to write the same sentiment. "Ex-MT" was often the highest listing I would see in many periodicals 30 years ago. Also, if you look at old Beckett guides, it would have "percent discount from mint" for various grades, and my recollection that Ex-Mt might have been at 75% of value of mint, whereas now, I notice almost a doubling at every PSA number grade for 1950s cards, so that a PSA 9 price (mint) would dwarf a PSA 6 in price.

I think grading has made what had been considered finite differences in card condition a glaring difference. I'm not sure that's helped the hobby one way or another, other than making some cards "Investment grade" due to being so much more "scarce". But the truth is, there were 100,000 1956 Mantles out there before grading and 100,00 after, it's just that now, we've gradated differences so that there only 200 PSA 8+ (not sure of these numbers). That strikes me as false scarcity, though many will say it's a misinterpretation of 'scarcity' and condition rarity exists in other collectible markets as well

[Nick55]

and was surprised at how badly centered certain vintage cards that I had and loved were.

Same here. I've thought alot about this lately, and the best answer for this that I can come up with is that for many of us, the content was the focus when we were younger rather than centering, corner, and other imperfections. The exceptions to this were imperfections that grossly interfered with interpreting the "content" (i.e., viewing the card front, reading the back, etc.) like heavy creasing, bad focus, miscuts, missing paper, ink mustaches, etc. They became an issue for good reason: they distracted from the content. Next time you look at card, note the first thing you notice about it. I'll bet for many, their eyes go straight to the corners and centering first followed with an almost instantaneous valuation calculation (that was the case for me when I really paid attention to it). When I was kid, my eyes went straight to the photo first and foremost. I never gave corners or centering much thought until one day I opened a beckett price guide and notice the cost differential between NM and VG cards. Now corners, centering, and other attributes mattered to me, because the focus shifted from "content" to "value" (or at least, there became a shared focus between the two).

For the most part, it's my view that the whole centering thing is largely a trend/fad that gets repeated over and over on message boards to the extent that it's the "in thing." This has especially been the case over the last few years. It was not nearly as pervasive 5 years ago, as I recall, as it is now. Don't get me wrong - I love a perfectly centered card. But, I'm not going to fret over it and spend a ton of effort or money searching for one - way too much work to be fun for me.

[jchcollins]

Also, if you look at old Beckett guides, it would have "percent discount from mint" for various grades, and my recollection that Ex-Mt might have been at 75% of value of mint, whereas now, I notice almost a doubling at every PSA number grade for 1950s cards, so that a PSA 9 price (mint) would dwarf a PSA 6 in price.l

Beckett ranges (& don't get me started on how some people always thought the left column was for NM and the right was VG...) were stated to be for NM cards for pre-1980. If you had 1950's cards that were truly better than NM (again, as subjective as this is today, it was even crazier what people thought back in the 80's) then that was some range 100% or more of "book" value based on what the card was. Clearly the percentage for Mickey Mantle was higher using this line of thinking than Mickey Vernon.

I remember one case where a dealer actually pulled this on me - wanting more $ for a card because it was in "better than" NM condition. The term NM-MT was not yet en vogue, and it certainly was not associated with the number 8. But the point I believe was the same. The card in question was a 1958 Topps Yogi Berra, which I bought because it was so nice, but paid wayyyyy too much for by today's standards. It was nice, but may have been a PSA 6 today because of the centering. I'm not a centering freak. I don't generally like worse than 80/20 up to miscut cards (there are some rare exceptions), but have a tolerance for it beyond that. Today as back then, if my first impression of a card is that the centering is acceptable, I move on and then generally don't consider it again - I just admire the card. Then sometime later someone will be all like "Well that's nice except for the 65/35..." and I'll be dumbfounded. I digress - another large point to be made is that before professional grading - many, many EX-MT or so vintage cards were routinely described as NM to Gem Mint by dealers who sold through the mail - and in the 1980's and earlier, this was often done sans any pictures. I imagine that many, many off-centered "mint" cards were sold at mint prices back in the day.

[thatkidfromjerrymaguire]

For me, mid-grade cards provide the best bang for the buck. Would I prefer to have Mint condition vintage cards? Sure! They are beautiful and investment quality. However, my budget doesn't allow that.

I do not want cards with creases, marks, or paper loss...but other than that, mid grade cards will still have great visual appeal and are fun to handle. So VG to EX is the sweet spot for my collection. I typically don't need them graded, unless it's a higher dollar card, and then the only reason I want them graded is to confirm they are authentic and unaltered.

[toppcat]

Ex or Ex-Mt is fine for me for 60's and 70's cards, VG-EX even for earlier 50's cards even. I've been dabbling in newer stuff (90's and up) but for those I am only collecting 10's.

[CobbSpikedMe]

It's really nice to see so many of you like the mid-grade stuff. I even like the low-grade cards too. Sometimes I get discouraged when the pick up threads turn into a show and tell of super expensive cards. Don't get me wrong, I love the pick up threads and seeing when folks pick up nice cards, but I can't compete with those. I should also say that even when I do rarely post one of my lower grade pick ups I still get good feedback from the board which is encouraging.

Here's one of my lower grade gems...

[Nick55]

Congrats on picking up the '54 Jackie Robinson!

[irv]

It's really nice to see so many of you like the mid-grade stuff. I even like the low-grade cards too. Sometimes I get discouraged when the pick up threads turn into a show and tell of super expensive cards. Don't get me wrong, I love the pick up threads and seeing when folks pick up nice cards, but I can't compete with those. I should also say that even when I do rarely post one of my lower grade pick ups I still get good feedback from the board which is encouraging.

Here's one of my lower grade gems...

Same here, and I also appreciate it.

Nice Jackie, BTW. :)

[CobbSpikedMe]

Thanks for the kind words regarding the Jackie guys!! 1954 Topps is my favorite vintage Topps set and that was my first big card for the set. I only need some commons and the Banks and Aaron now.

You've made me feel like sharing another low grade gem from my collection. This Koufax was bought for $10 when I was a kid and that was a lot of money for me back then when packs were $0.25 each.

It's one of my favorite cards in my collection and always will be.

[geosluggo]

I admit some envy when I see really nice professionally graded cards from the 1950s and '60s. But I like building sets and don't have a ton of money. Here are a few cards from the 1956 set I completed a couple years ago. The Mantle was actually a graded card that I liberated from its slab. Don't remember the grade but I know I paid more than $100 but less than $150 for it -- the most I spent on any card in that set. The Ted Williams is a card I acquired as a kid in the late 1970s. Most of my commons are in nicer shape than these stars.

[Nick55]

The Koufax and '56's look great. I love the stories behind them.

[commishbob]

This Gibson rookie is probably the worst conditioned card I own but it's one of my most cherished. The first cards I remember owning are from the 1959 Topps set. I got packs of them in my Easter basket. Of all the cards I had as a kid this is the only one to have survived. It was 'lost' for quite awhile as I had put in a copy of the first Beckett guidebook and there it sat for about 15 years. Now it's the 'anchor' of my '59 set.

317510

[Nick55]

Congrats on finding that "lost" Gibson card. Great story! Once I finish off a couple of set builds later this year, I plan on picking up more '59's, including a Gibson in about that condition. It's on my long-term radar.

[mickey7mantle7]

What's considered "mid grade" these days?

4-6 range?

[irv]

What's considered "mid grade" these days?

4-6 range?

Technically speaking, a 5 would be mid grade but I have always been curious what collector grade means as well?

[Rookiemonster]

So this thread is great because it’s what I collect! Here are a few low to mid grade gems from my collection. I never really understood why people snubbed theses cards. We’ve had a lot of conversations about high grade cards and the problem with them being in existence.

I’ve actually tried to sell card like theses and have dealers tell me that if they bought them no one would be interested because they are not high grade.

Theses cards have been played with and kept for years and cherished as I do now.

[JollyElm]

Back to the 1973 Mays for a second. This one (not mine, and I'm not trying to adversely affect whoever is selling it) is on ebay. How in heck did it get a 9???? Look at those bumped/rounded corners and the notch in the upper right (among other things). Yowza!!!!! Why would anyone pay almost $500 for that card?? No purple sticker for you!!!!!!!

317550

[jchcollins]

Back to the 1973 Mays for a second. This one (not mine, and I'm not trying to adversely affect whoever is selling it) is on ebay. How in heck did it get a 9???? Look at those bumped/rounded corners and the notch in the upper right (among other things). Yowza!!!!! Why would anyone pay almost $500 for that card?? No purple sticker for you!!!!!!!



317550



Also notice that the raw ‘73 Mays that Jason showed for comparison purposes is centered better than the PSA 9 in his post. That’s ridiculous. If I’m going to spend $500 on a Willie Mays card - no offense to the ‘73 set - but it’s not going to be his last one, no matter how nice it is.


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[jchcollins]

Another reason why for me at least it doesn’t make sense to buy super high-end graded cards:

If I get a vintage PSA 8 or above, especially if a star HOFer, and also especially if I’ve spent big bucks - I’m going to be very intolerant of the LEAST perceived imperfections, including those which are likely tolerable within the stated spectrum. Even PSA 9’s and 10’s can have “something” wrong; 10’s are claimed by PSA to be “virtually” perfect cards. For example, there are countless examples of vintage PSA 10’s with slightly noticeable tilt. That kind of thing doesn’t bother me at all on a PSA 5 or 6, but if I had paid for a 10? Personally, I’d rather have a PSA 5 that’s still a good looking card, but where I know what the flaws are and am not paranoid as to what else might inherently be wrong with the card-grade combo and how much I paid. If I had a card like that for a week, I would find something wrong with it, trust me. My OCD is not that bulletproof.

Mid-grade just is so much easier and takes the paranoia-level concerns away, in my case.


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[CobbSpikedMe]

Technically speaking, a 5 would be mid grade but I have always been curious what collector grade means as well?


Hi Irv,

I always thought of collector grade as a bit lower than mid-grade up to maybe VG at the top end of the scale. Cards that are being "collected" not bought for an investment of any kind. Of course not all high end cards are strictly bought for investments purposes. Some folks just have the means to collect high grade and plenty of it.

Just my thoughts anyway.

AndyH

[Nick55]

So this thread is great because it’s what I collect! Here are a few low to mid grade gems from my collection. I never really understood why people snubbed theses cards. We’ve had a lot of conversations about high grade cards and the problem with them being in existence.

I’ve actually tried to sell card like theses and have dealers tell me that if they bought them no one would be interested because they are not high grade.

Theses cards have been played with and kept for years and cherished as I do now.

Love 'em all. Fun to look at!

[irv]

Hi Irv,

I always thought of collector grade as a bit lower than mid-grade up to maybe VG at the top end of the scale. Cards that are being "collected" not bought for an investment of any kind. Of course not all high end cards are strictly bought for investments purposes. Some folks just have the means to collect high grade and plenty of it.

Just my thoughts anyway.

AndyH

Thanks Andy.

That's a good explanation and one that is likely correct.

I appreciate it. :)

[Rookiemonster]

Love 'em all. Fun to look at!

Thanks ! I’ll post a few more later if I can.

[CobbSpikedMe]

Here's my 55 Williams in "collector grade" that was given to me by a friend. It fits right in with my collection too.

How ya like that one?

[Nick55]

Although rough, the Williams is completely viewable/readable and it was free. How can one go wrong there? Very nice!

[Marchillo]

I posted this in May pickups. I was trying to complete my 63 set with my birthday money and the Rose card is just out of control expensive. Instead I saved over $100 and picked up this Banks and a raw Kaline RC. This Banks doesn’t even qualify as mid grade but it has great eye appeal and looks better than many graded 3-4. Can’t find a crease on it. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180529/f9c69898bea76e9a317111d7883b54c1.jpg


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[CobbSpikedMe]

Hey Stephen,

I'd call that Banks mid grade. Even though the technical grade is a 2 it looks nice to me. I need one like that for my 54 set. I only need the Banks, Aaron and a few commons still to complete that baby. My favorite Topps set.

AndyH

[DeanH3]

Fantastic cards everybody. Glad to see mid-grade cards get some love.

Here are a few more.

http://www.net54baseball.com/picture.php?albumid=813&pictureid=22862
http://www.net54baseball.com/picture.php?albumid=813&pictureid=20468
http://www.net54baseball.com/picture.php?albumid=813&pictureid=19398
http://www.net54baseball.com/picture.php?albumid=813&pictureid=22555
http://www.net54baseball.com/picture.php?albumid=813&pictureid=19207

[Marchillo]

Thanks for the comments on the Banks. I was starting to build the 54 set but I had the Banks, Kaline, Aaron left and that was overwhelming. With the recent purchases I am only left with Aaron as a big card - I've got Mays, Jackie, both Williams etc. So I am in good shape. Need to acquire some of the common players I have left. Maybe 50 or so. Those should be pretty easy and then I'll wait for a big holiday or birthday to get the Aaron. That card is simply out of my normal card budget.

Awesome 53 Mantle. I am assuming some sort of paper loss on the back? I display all my Mantles in a case so that type of Mantle would work perfect for me. What a nicely centered Mantle!

[commishbob]

Dean...that's a terrific lineup of cards!

[DeanH3]

Thanks for the kind words guys.

Stephen - yes, there is paperloss in the back. But not enough to bother me with the kind of eye appeal the front offers.

[Exhibitman]

While 5 is the midpoint, I've always thought of midgrade as vg through ex-mt. Or 3-6. Sub-3 is low grade, off-grade, OBC, or collector grade. Whatever term you like. 7-8 is high grade, 9-10 is registry bait. That would all be for pre-1974 cards. Once you get into the 1974-on, I'd say there is basically no collectability below a nice looking 4 unless it is one of the really expensive RCs from the era. The rest is basically dollar box fodder. After 1980, the cut-off is basically a 6 or a 7, except for a few cards (1986 Jordan, 1979 Gretzky) that people will buy. Modern era (1989+) there is no midgrade or low grade; if it ain't near mint or better it is basically useless.

[jchcollins]

Fantastic cards everybody. Glad to see mid-grade cards get some love.

Here are a few more.


Gorgeous Mantle. If that is poor, I'll take poor cards all day long.

[jchcollins]

9-10 is registry bait.

"Registry bait", good term. There was an old grading site used 10-15 years or so ago where a collector named Bruce Moreland was attempting to describe how certain terms were useless outside of the world of professional grading, and particularly with vintage cards. His point was that trying to describe the difference between a mint card and a gem mint card while raw was likely to be so purely subjective as to be absurd. Your term comes in nicely here, because those types of cards are most certainly "registry bait." :)

In case you couldn't guess no, I do not participate in any PSA registry quests...

[CobbSpikedMe]

Sub-3 is low grade, off-grade, OBC, or collector grade.

"OBC" for low grade...Awesome.

[drmondobueno]

The cards I owned as a kid were early’60’s and I handled the **ll out of them. We all did. So a perfect card is nothing I owned for long.

I chase VGExish stuff these days and have been selling off the high grade prewar stuff I have. There is something about a rougher card that I find attractive. Maybe it’s the idea of owning something that some other kid kinda like me liked having.

Recently I started a Japanese Menko type set, starting with die cut and round menko from the late ‘40s and early fifties. Thinking about kids who lived through the horror of WW2 brought it all home to me. I prefer cards that were played with and wonder where on the island they came from. Maybe one day I will get overseas, maybe not.

Baseball is cool.

[nat]

The cards I owned as a kid were early’60’s and I handled the **ll out of them. We all did. So a perfect card is nothing I owned for long.

I chase VGExish stuff these days and have been selling off the high grade prewar stuff I have. There is something about a rougher card that I find attractive. Maybe it’s the idea of owning something that some other kid kinda like me liked having.

Recently I started a Japanese Menko type set, starting with die cut and round menko from the late ‘40s and early fifties. Thinking about kids who lived through the horror of WW2 brought it all home to me. I prefer cards that were played with and wonder where on the island they came from. Maybe one day I will get overseas, maybe not.

Baseball is cool.

Hi Keith. No doubt you've seen it (since it's on the same page as this thread) but I started a thread on Japanese cards (http://net54baseball.com/showthread.php?t=254800). I'm putting together a collection of Japanese hall of famers and I'm posting them there as I go, but if you've got some type cards from unusual menko sets that you could post, I'd love to see them.

[drmondobueno]

Hi Keith. No doubt you've seen it (since it's on the same page as this thread) but I started a thread on Japanese cards (http://net54baseball.com/showthread.php?t=254800). I'm putting together a collection of Japanese hall of famers and I'm posting them there as I go, but if you've got some type cards from unusual menko sets that you could post, I'd love to see them.

Hey Nat, have been following your thread and enjoying same immensely. My japanese baseball knowledge is severely limited and by no means can I read kanji. I do use the Engle book as a guide and guess my best more often than I care to admit. Will do on posting once I get a scanner to work with an ipad.

Wish me luck on that!

[Exhibitman]

I wish I could take credit for OBC but some dealers use it on eBay.

[Cooper1927]

This fits well with my finished 1956 Yankees Topps set. I got the first one (Yogi Berra) 28 years ago and received the last three (Howard, Martin, and Noren) today in the mail.




319605

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

I am bumping this thread and thanking all of you guys for making it so great. I can't tell you how much finding this thread has helped me. I have been wanting to get back to 50s and 60s set building (mainly baseball but some football ), but had been feeling like the sets I could build wouldn't be " good enough." I started the 67 Topps baseball set and had purchased some PSA 6s and 7s...which I have now sold. I just can't reasonably sustain that kind of cost, especially when there are so many sets I want. My 67 set will now be in a binder, even the stars, in vgex to ex condition and a whole lot more affordable. I will do the best I can on centering and try to avoid creasing. Honest wear is just how it should be. After spending PSA 7 $, it is shocking to see how much more affordable crease free 4s and 5s (or even better---ungraded cards) are. It will be fun loading the pages in the binder, placing my cards that I already have in the correct spots, and then filling in the empty slots. This is what I always intended, but I guess I got caught up.

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[CobbSpikedMe]

Hi Robert,

Good luck with your set collecting. All my sets are low grade and love them all the same. The low grade stuff allows me to pick up the stars and HOFers at much lower costs. I'd rather have a hole in my card than a hole in my set. I can always upgrade later, but for tough/expensive cards I go low/mid grade all day long.

AndyH

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

Hi Robert,

Good luck with your set collecting. All my sets are low grade and love them all the same. The low grade stuff allows me to pick up the stars and HOFers at much lower costs. I'd rather have a hole in my card than a hole in my set. I can always upgrade later, but for tough/expensive cards I go low/mid grade all day long.

AndyHThanks for the encouraging words, Andy. I like your style. I am regaining my focus and hope to make progress. The cards I can't find ungraded in the condition I want, I will buy slabbed and crack them out. I have an old purchase to get paid off, then I will get going again. I hope to have some cards to share.

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[JTysver]

I try to collect two sets of cards.
My main set tries to get Ex or ExMt or better.
My second sets I try to go between Poor and VG, mostly trying to get cards around G/Vg.

It is not nearly as expensive to buy cards in lower grade and a lot of times there are really inexpensive lots or starter sets which can knock off much of the set.
The only thing I ask from my lower grade sets is that they are whole and don't have significant paper loss. Creases, dog ears, writing (to some extent) all are fine. I don't want a card for my sets which have a bite taken out of them. However, in some cases a hole punch is okay.

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

I picked up this crease free, mid-grade Ted last night.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180703/440930fcaf6a92c5f7732f4ba6e809f7.jpg

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[PowderedH2O]

I work on my early 50's and earlier cards in whatever looks nice to me. My favorite grades are PSA 1 where the issue is something silly like tape residue or some minor writing on the back. I've bought vintage Ruth, Gehrig, Cobb, Johnson, Foxx, and many more in PSA 1 and 2 that I adore. I once was working on a 1952 Bowman set in PSA 5-8. Then, I saw a raw vg Musial that was beautiful. I won it for about $50, then sold my graded Musial for over $240. I rolled that money into a ton more cards. I am now 75% done on about 15% of what I would have paid for nice graded cards. I am all about "collector grade"!

[jchcollins]

Here are some examples on recent pickups - ‘67 Topps high numbers. These cards in grades above 6 I have learned recently are SUBSTANTIALLY more expensive in eBay auctions. Plus I’ve learned that for lower grade and O/C - there are a lot more sellers who are willing to make deals on Buy-It-Now prices that accept offers. I saved more than $50 off this Colavito from the original BIN asking price. Yeah, it’s O/C but so what? The picture has beautiful color and there isn’t a crease on it. To give you some perspective, the same ‘67 Colavito #580 in a PSA 7 - centered much better than mine but still not perfect - sold for more than $200 in a November 2017 eBay auction. Without saying what I paid for mine, it was a HECKUVA lot less than two bills...

Again, each unto his own and nothing against collectors who shell out big bucks for macho, super high-grade vintage. But if I tried to put together a ‘67 set like that I might have 10 cards before I died.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180709/768e23753e0e723b41cfe5b7a753ca53.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180709/188fe567a3819b0d994b8c21cdfeada5.jpg

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[vintagebaseballcardguy]

Here are some examples on recent pickups - ‘67 Topps high numbers. These cards in grades above 6 I have learned recently are SUBSTANTIALLY more expensive in eBay auctions. Plus I’ve learned that for lower grade and O/C - there are a lot more sellers who are willing to make deals on Buy-It-Now prices that accept offers. I saved more than $50 off this Colavito from the original BIN asking price. Yeah, it’s O/C but so what? The picture has beautiful color and there isn’t a crease on it. To give you some perspective, the same ‘67 Colavito #580 in a PSA 7 - centered much better than mine but still not perfect - sold for more than $200 in a November 2017 eBay auction. Without saying what I paid for mine, it was a HECKUVA lot less than two bills...

Again, each unto his own and nothing against collectors who shell out big bucks for macho, super high-grade vintage. But if I tried to put together a ‘67 set like that I might have 10 cards before I died.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180709/768e23753e0e723b41cfe5b7a753ca53.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180709/188fe567a3819b0d994b8c21cdfeada5.jpg

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Those are great cards! I'm with you in that I would rather give in on centering than have a crease...that's how that card came out of the pack after all! I am finding that in shooting for mid-grade I am usually going to have to make a concession somewhere, but I don't mind doing that. I am having fun, and my collecting is affordable for me. At the end of the day, the card is going into my box or binder, and it is for my enjoyment anyway.

[Vintagevault13]

Those are great cards! I'm with you in that I would rather give in on centering than have a crease...that's how that card came out of the pack after all! I am finding that in shooting for mid-grade I am usually going to have to make a concession somewhere, but I don't mind doing that. I am having fun, and my collecting is affordable for me. At the end of the day, the card is going into my box or binder, and it is for my enjoyment anyway.



100% agree. Just got this 71 Clemente today. Made an offer that was 1/3 less than similar cards and it was accepted. Definitely OC, but nice color and no creases. Looks sweet in the binder.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180709/cb37cb4aa350d5c5985b0c9e02d8c305.png


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[vintagebaseballcardguy]

Congrats on the pickup, Ed!

[jchcollins]

100% agree. Just got this 71 Clemente today. Made an offer that was 1/3 less than similar cards and it was accepted. Definitely OC, but nice color and no creases. Looks sweet in the binder.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180709/cb37cb4aa350d5c5985b0c9e02d8c305.png


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I think the OC gives it some character. Nice card!


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[vintagebaseballcardguy]

I am learning to live with less than great centering. On Friday, I purchased a partial (241/250) 1954 Topps set at a pretty good price. I have gone through and pulled all the cards with creases and wrinkles and will be looking to sell those. While the centering is varied throughout the set, I am ok with that aspect of the cards. What do you guys think about miscuts? Some of them are otherwise very nice cards, and I believe all are commons. I am keeping some that are OC. Is miscut really that much worse? Would you keep or don't keep?

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[Vintagevault13]

I am learning to live with less than great centering. On Friday, I purchased a partial (241/250) 1954 Topps set at a pretty good price. I have gone through and pulled all the cards with creases and wrinkles and will be looking to sell those. While the centering is varied throughout the set, I am ok with that aspect of the cards. What do you guys think about miscuts? Some of them are otherwise very nice cards, and I believe all are commons. I am keeping some that are OC. Is miscut really that much worse? Would you keep or don't keep?

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As you can see from the 71 Clemente I posted, I am ok with OC cards. However, I do want to make sure that there is at least a full border around the card. I guess it is just what we can tolerate. I use the “binder test”. If a card looks good while I flip through the binder, I am good with it.


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[jchcollins]

I am learning to live with less than great centering. On Friday, I purchased a partial (241/250) 1954 Topps set at a pretty good price. I have gone through and pulled all the cards with creases and wrinkles and will be looking to sell those. While the centering is varied throughout the set, I am ok with that aspect of the cards. What do you guys think about miscuts? Some of them are otherwise very nice cards, and I believe all are commons. I am keeping some that are OC. Is miscut really that much worse? Would you keep or don't keep?

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Some MC cards I think are tolerable if the borders blend in well or are implied. For example I have a '53 Topps Warren Spahn, PSA 5 MC. It's got a sliver of a top border, but it blends into the color of the painting so well that you have to hold it a couple of inches away from your eye to even see it. The bottom border, where the black nameplate is - is larger than usual because of this - but on the whole the card does not look disproportionate to me, and so I was ok w/ the miscut. There is a scan of this card over on the thread titled "PSA and Off-Center Cards", I think.

[Exhibitman]

I am getting to be the opposite: as long as the card has great centering and is clean and well-registered I am fine with lesser corners or even a slight crease. The vg-ex due to a small crease that looks nm-mt is my favorite place to play in postwar cards. But there are exceptions. If you collect all things 1971 Topps, as I try to, you have to go after OPC cards and you basically will get o/c cards from Canada:


https://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1971%20OPC%20Jackson%201.JPG

The centering on OPC sucks so bad that I will take lesser grade if they happen to be centered:

https://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1971%20OPC%20Seaver.jpeg

The only place I might splurge is on a Hank Aaron (favorite player of the era and all).

[jchcollins]

Lately I find myself going for all types - VG-EX range and centered are preferable, but I have also gone for some O/C cards that still have sharper corners and are otherwise clean (sharp to me is usually more PSA 6 range than 8...) - especially with late 60's and early 70's cards. It really just depends on the individual card.

[baseballfan]

[QUOTE=Vintagevault13;1795237]

I use the “binder test”. If a card looks good while I flip through the binder, I am good with it.



this is what I use and some days I get different thoughts on cards but if they look good in the set I keep it. I think to collect mid grade you have to use some OC cards.

hopefully I will finish my 57 set this week with some help from the board. I'll post pics once I do

[Neal]

Great cards fellas! Love mid grade - majority of my collection! Here are some of my "collector grade" favorites

323178323179
323180323181
323182323183
323184323185

[Marchillo]

My haul from yesterday’s eBay sale. Definitely some mid grade examples that have good eye appeal to me.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180718/e84d822ffa608d17e171e79c2196d734.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180718/3a86b86d5c5e2ec318d154a443638a5e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180718/ef73ae638d9478541c3b2927909433fc.jpg


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[jchcollins]

My haul from yesterday’s eBay sale. Definitely some mid grade examples that have good eye appeal to me.


Nice. I've always thought that VG-EX is an excellent value for the eye appeal most have.

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

Very well done!My haul from yesterday’s eBay sale. Definitely some mid grade examples that have good eye appeal to me.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180718/e84d822ffa608d17e171e79c2196d734.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180718/3a86b86d5c5e2ec318d154a443638a5e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180718/ef73ae638d9478541c3b2927909433fc.jpg


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[vintagebaseballcardguy]

I picked these up last night for the '54 Topps set I am building. I like the eye appeal of these cards. The Yogi scan wouldn't cooperate. Tommy Lasorda is the last card I need to complete the set. After that, there will be a few upgrades but nothing major.

[dclarkraiders]

Great cards fellas! Love mid grade - majority of my collection! Here are some of my "collector grade" favorites

323178323179
323180323181
323182323183
323184323185

Great cards.

Thanks for sharing them with us.

Duane

[Promethius88]

Great thread and some really nice cards posted! While I love the high end stuff, the mid grade stuff fits my wallet much better!

[Marchillo]

I picked these up last night for the '54 Topps set I am building. I like the eye appeal of these cards. The Yogi scan wouldn't cooperate. Tommy Lasorda is the last card I need to complete the set. After that, there will be a few upgrades but nothing major.

Love that Kaline!

Nice work!

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

Great thread and the mid grade stuff fits my wallet much better!

Me too!!!!!

[CW]

Great stuff, guys! These are my kind o' cards!

[MattyC]

Great discussion and some awesome cards in here.

Nothing like finding that rare low-mid grade card that makes you look no further. Rare but when it happens, it's like a bonus thrill.

https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/mattianc/mickey-mantle/51018/louisville-slugger-museum

https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/mattianc/mickey-mantle/59150/1951-bowman-mantle

https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/mattianc/mickey-mantle/45396/1953-bowman-mantle

https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/mattianc/mickey-mantle/45437/1969-topps-mantle

https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/mattianc/vintage/45463/1969-topps-jackson

https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/mattianc/vintage/47311/1986-fleer-jordan

https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/mattianc/-top-10-/45442/1915-cracker-jack-jackson

https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/mattianc/-top-10-/53414/1911-d304-cobb

https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/mattianc/mickey-mantle/45419/1959-topps-mantle

[Neal]

Matt - wow!!!!!

[CobbSpikedMe]

Geez Matt. Those are like high grade compared to what I collect. And what the heck is wrong with that PSA1 Jordan RC?!

[baseballfan]

thanks to Ben "MIKE GARCIA" finished my 57 topps set mid grade would be psa 5-7, mostly. some writing on the mantle back but good looking card

on to my 56 and 55 sets only a couple more to get

[RayBShotz]

That Reggie is an incredible 5!
RayB

[baseballfan]

what's wrong with that Jordan is there no back at all???? looks good

[jason.1969]

Another thing in favor of mid-grade (or even lower really)...the older I get the crappier my eyes get. Even with my glasses, I truly can't tell the difference between just about anything PSA 5 and above. Centering and color still stand out for me, but small corner dings don't even register for me anymore.

The downside of my vision degrading with age is that I struggle to read the card backs these days--especially on something like a 1981 Fleer McCovey--but the upside is that the eye appeal of all these great cards just goes up and up each year for free.

[Exhibitman]

I've been getting into modern cards in slightly lower technical grades than the expensive ones. Great way to pick up prime RCs and other cards without spending big on them.

https://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/basketball/websize/1987%20Jordan%20Sticker%201.jpg

[Vintagevault13]

Here are a couple of others for my 1971 sets. Got great deals on both. For my criteria, they fit my set perfectly and have good eye appeal.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180731/c098f85835fef28ea43549c154b1526b.pnghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180731/b1d7673c804d69fd052e89a9444dcc9d.png


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[Topcat79]

Love this thread, as it’s right in line with my collecting philosophy of buying the card and not the grade. I usually aim for a nice 5 or 6, but when it comes to the more sought after players like Mantle or Williams, I’m more than happy with a nice 3.



https://sportscardalbum.com/c/4k8y7apr.jpeg (https://sportscardalbum.com/card/4k8y7apr/n-a)


https://sportscardalbum.com/c/ij19z9d5.jpeg (https://sportscardalbum.com/card/ij19z9d5/n-a)


https://sportscardalbum.com/c/v5i6tz6r.jpeg (https://sportscardalbum.com/card/v5i6tz6r/n-a)


https://sportscardalbum.com/c/y80r6jqt.jpeg (https://sportscardalbum.com/card/y80r6jqt/n-a)

[G1911]

I usually skip mid grade and buy low grade, because I love baseball history, the nostalgia and the images, not the sharpness of the corners. I can get every 60's set in low grade, or just one of them in near mint. The choice seems easy to me. Round corners, edge wear, a crease, a pinhole, none of these are a problem. It's the same card, with the same picture, the same stats on the back, and I get just as much fun looking them through as I do a near mint example. My low grade 1956 Mantle that cost $40 instead of $400 brings just as much joy for a fraction of the price. I often downgrade cards even, buying a low grade copy and selling a mid grade if I have one. I do get disgusted looks from some dealers at card shows when I ask if they have poor-good cards, but it works for me. It's a more relaxing hobby, in my eyes, to not care about being one of the hobby elite or worrying if there is a wrinkle that isn't visible in the scan, and just build sets for personal enjoyment.

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

I usually skip mid grade and buy low grade, because I love baseball history, the nostalgia and the images, not the sharpness of the corners. I can get every 60's set in low grade, or just one of them in near mint. The choice seems easy to me. Round corners, edge wear, a crease, a pinhole, none of these are a problem. It's the same card, with the same picture, the same stats on the back, and I get just as much fun looking them through as I do a near mint example. My low grade 1956 Mantle that cost $40 instead of $400 brings just as much joy for a fraction of the price. I often downgrade cards even, buying a low grade copy and selling a mid grade if I have one. I do get disgusted looks from some dealers at card shows when I ask if they have poor-good cards, but it works for me. It's a more relaxing hobby, in my eyes, to not care about being one of the hobby elite or worrying if there is a wrinkle that isn't visible in the scan, and just build sets for personal enjoyment.

Man, do I love the sentiment! I am trying very hard to get back to simply enjoying having the cards/sets just for the sake of having fun owning them. If I can help it, I would rather not have pin holes or writing, but trying to "get over" most everything else.

[jchcollins]

I usually aim for a nice 5 or 6, but when it comes to the more sought after players like Mantle or Williams, I’m more than happy with a nice 3.

Nice cards. My '56 Williams is an SGC 3. On many of the oversized 1950's cards, I think they can tolerate / "wear" their wear so to speak better than later cards because the card stock quality was better and the cards themselves were a bit thicker. Particularly '56 Topps - which I think was printed on slightly thicker card stock than '55. I don't like big ugly creases that break the surface, but '56 Topps cards can hide lesser creases well and remain very attractive. Once you get into most sets from the 1960's, and then the early 70's which I think were the worst - the card stock becomes terrible, much thinner and just generally of crappy quality. I think the late 60's and early 70's was worse on the whole for dramatically O/C and miscut cards as well.

[Exhibitman]

I usually skip mid grade and buy low grade, because I love baseball history, the nostalgia and the images, not the sharpness of the corners. I can get every 60's set in low grade, or just one of them in near mint. The choice seems easy to me. Round corners, edge wear, a crease, a pinhole, none of these are a problem. It's the same card, with the same picture, the same stats on the back, and I get just as much fun looking them through as I do a near mint example. My low grade 1956 Mantle that cost $40 instead of $400 brings just as much joy for a fraction of the price. I often downgrade cards even, buying a low grade copy and selling a mid grade if I have one. I do get disgusted looks from some dealers at card shows when I ask if they have poor-good cards, but it works for me. It's a more relaxing hobby, in my eyes, to not care about being one of the hobby elite or worrying if there is a wrinkle that isn't visible in the scan, and just build sets for personal enjoyment.

I mostly agree, but when it comes to my era the 1970s I can usually find nice looking cards very cheaply for all but the biggest stars anyway. Now, when it comes to marquee cards, I definitely downgrade in the interests of having more of them:

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1952%20Bowman%20Mantle.jpeg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1953%20Bowman%20Mantle%20SGC%2040.jpeg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1956%20Topps%20Mantle.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1957%20Topps%20Mantle.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1961%20Topps%20Mantle.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1955%20Topps%20Clemente.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1956%20Clemente.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous4/websize/1955%20Topps%20Koufax.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous4/websize/1952%20Topps%20Robinson.JPG

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous4/websize/1954%20Topps%20250%20Williams_%20Ted.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous4/websize/1954%20Topps%20Aaron%20PSA%203_1.jpg

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

I mostly agree, but when it comes to my era the 1970s I can usually find nice looking cards very cheaply for all but the biggest stars anyway. Now, when it comes to marquee cards, I definitely downgrade in the interests of having more of them:

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1952%20Bowman%20Mantle.jpeg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1953%20Bowman%20Mantle%20SGC%2040.jpeg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1956%20Topps%20Mantle.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1957%20Topps%20Mantle.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1961%20Topps%20Mantle.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1955%20Topps%20Clemente.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1956%20Clemente.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous4/websize/1955%20Topps%20Koufax.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous4/websize/1952%20Topps%20Robinson.JPG

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous4/websize/1954%20Topps%20250%20Williams_%20Ted.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous4/websize/1954%20Topps%20Aaron%20PSA%203_1.jpg

Great stuff and very motivational! I have fancied myself a set builder over the years and have enjoyed that. However, I am getting increasingly restless. There are sooooo many cards out there that I want, and I just don't have the ability or perhaps desire to build that many sets. Then I thought I needed my star cards to be higher grade since I wasn't building sets. (I know...programmed robot ;() However, I love this list of cards, and it makes me realize what I could accomplish. Thanks for this!

[G1911]

I mostly agree, but when it comes to my era the 1970s I can usually find nice looking cards very cheaply for all but the biggest stars anyway. Now, when it comes to marquee cards, I definitely downgrade in the interests of having more of them:

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1952%20Bowman%20Mantle.jpeg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1953%20Bowman%20Mantle%20SGC%2040.jpeg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1956%20Topps%20Mantle.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1957%20Topps%20Mantle.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1961%20Topps%20Mantle.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1955%20Topps%20Clemente.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1956%20Clemente.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous4/websize/1955%20Topps%20Koufax.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous4/websize/1952%20Topps%20Robinson.JPG

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous4/websize/1954%20Topps%20250%20Williams_%20Ted.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous4/websize/1954%20Topps%20Aaron%20PSA%203_1.jpg


This is exactly my sweet spot for 50’s cards. Low grade copies that retain a nice image. Readable backs matter too, as I love the Topps cartoons and over the top enthusiasm of the written descriptions. I’m around 95% of the way through a full 1950’s Topps/Bowman run thanks to cards like these

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

I am really starting to consider selling off most of my commons from some baseball and football partials to buy some star cards I have been wanting. It feels like a lot of work though.

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[JunkyJoe]

Glad to have found this conversation hub on the interwebs. I started collecting when I was a kid, so, about 30+ years ago. Managed to thin out the pile of junk wax over the years .... gave most of it away to thrift stores, and kept a couple for nostalgia (a couple shoe boxes full, that is). Among the junky stuff, of course, I made sure to save my short stack of Upper Deck Ken Griffey Jr. cards that my nutty card collector uncle had given me (he had 2 closets overflowing with wax packs and sets back then). The late 80's/early 90's was a fun era ... lots of hype, cheap packs all over the place, lots of card shops with old worn down vintage cards to stare at and drool over. Off centered cards were the norm ... keeping those corners and edges razor sharp and keeping the surfaces clean and glossy, that was the name of the game back then.

Did some searches on ebay a few years ago and discovered that vast new wonderland of collecting. Back in the days of the card shops, I never could have imaged the future would be so bright. So these days, I enjoy being able to browse thousands of vintage cards from the 50's through the 70's from the leisure of my home. The way I see it, I would have to have $$ millions $$ to burn before I ever buy high grade vintage cards that are NM or nicer. The handled worn down cards have just so much more character, in my opinion. I actually think a crease-free VG or VG-EX 50's card with decent Left/Right centering is prettier to look at than a NM or Mint example of the same card. I don't spend big bucks ... $80 or $100 is a major card purchase for me. I don't mind even a small crease or two on a 50's or 60's card. I pretty much draw the line at badly miscut cards, cards that have been butchered, ugly print lines/wax stains, and ones that are badly out of focus. I love the cards with rounded corners, chipped edges, a light crease or two or three, and moderately faded colors (as long as it's not over the player's face). I feel like a kid in a candy store when I can score a couple of nice VG/VG-EX cards for $20 or $30.

[71buc]

Fun thread...I dont buy more than a handfull of cards each year. When I do I try to focus n HOFers between 1952 through 1973. I prefer to stay in the 350 to 500 range for the best PSA 6 I can find. It seems that with the current standards a PSA 6 is a very pretty card. Centering as long as it doesn't carry an OC qualifier bother me. On regional cards like the Wilson Frank's I will settle for a PSA 4 or 5 in my price range.

[jchcollins]

Fun thread...I dont buy more than a handfull of cards each year. When I do I try to focus n HOFers between 1952 through 1973. I prefer to stay in the 350 to 500 range for the best PSA 6 I can find. It seems that with the current standards a PSA 6 is a very pretty card. Centering as long as it doesn't carry an OC qualifier bother me. On regional cards like the Wilson Frank's I will settle for a PSA 4 or 5 in my price range.


I would agree that 6 is a pretty nice place to play in 1960’s cards and earlier. Unless just dramatically O/C, they usually have nice corners and surface features. Most of the newer 6’s (where PSA is being tough) and some cards present like 7’s or 8’s. If you don’t mind a bit more corner wear, I also think that PSA 4’s and 4.5’s are great value for the money. It takes awhile, but you can find centered 4’s of HOFer’s from the 50’s and 60’s for a fraction of the price that some truly high or investment grade cards sell for.


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[GasHouseGang]

Fun thread...I dont buy more than a handfull of cards each year. When I do I try to focus n HOFers between 1952 through 1973. I prefer to stay in the 350 to 500 range for the best PSA 6 I can find. It seems that with the current standards a PSA 6 is a very pretty card. Centering as long as it doesn't carry an OC qualifier bother me. On regional cards like the Wilson Frank's I will settle for a PSA 4 or 5 in my price range.

I'm pretty much the same as you Mike. I start getting nervous if I get much higher than $500. This card was on ebay and it looked nicer than most of the PSA6's I saw. When the 15% off day came I picked it up for a price I was more comfortable paying. The picture they had was taken with a phone and made it difficult to tell condition, but it turned out to be really nice for the grade. This is a scan I made.

[KendallCat]

Here are a couple of my favorites.

[71buc]

David and Kieth, No matter the grades those cards are serious eye candy.

[swabie2424]

I love this thread. To me it represents the heart and soul of vintage collecting.

For me mid-grade is a subjective term and depends on the card. Personally I try to collect “upper” mid-grade cards. So for 1950’s as 1960’s I stay in the PSA 6-7 range. That’s my sweet spot. 8’s just seem like too expensive 7’s usually (a dash more centering) and 9’s and 10’s are unattainable unless one is highly motivated for a specific card. I honestly can rarely tell the difference between a 9 and a 10.

But as I said the older the set the lower mid-grade becomes. In the way of an example I enjoy PSA 4-5’s in the 1940 Playball set. That’s my 1930’s-1940’s mid range.

[jchcollins]

Here are a couple of my favorites.

Incredible cards. I would imagine that for a Cracker Jack Cobb, 4 may be well more than "mid-grade" among remaining examples.

[IgnatiusJReilly]

Here are a couple of my favorites.



Wow, those cards are the definition of eye appeal and “strong for the grade”. Thanks for sharing!


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[KendallCat]

Incredible cards. I would imagine that for a Cracker Jack Cobb, 4 may be well more than "mid-grade" among remaining examples.

Thank you fo the comments everyone - very much appreciated. Been lucky on a couple of these cards that I was able to pick them up at a good price, and I try to find cards that look like a PSA 7/8 but for some reason have slower grade. The Cobb I won in REA and paid strong for it but in hand it looks like an 8. There is zero chance I find a CJ Shoeless to make a pair with it without selling a car or a kid 😄

KC

[GasHouseGang]

Mid-grade?

[swabie2424]

I’d say that’s the low end of high grade. But one could argue the very top of mid-grade. Obviously centering is the only real issue. No matter what ya call it, that card is bonkers! #drool

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

I wanted to revive this thread to whine a little. [emoji2957] When shopping in the PSA 5-6 range, it is getting harder and harder to find cards that are well centered AND have good focus/registration. [emoji2959] It is becoming more clear that I am going to have to give in on one or the other. It puts me in the minority, but I am starting to think I would rather give in on centering and keep the nice, clear image. Some corner wear doesn't bother me too much.

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[mq711]

I don’t mind centering issues as much as bad focus, print lines and ink smudges.

[David Skoglund]

Here's my 1954 Bowman Ted Williams. Well worth the $10 I paid.

https://oi1139.photobucket.com/albums/n543/lambfan68/54B_Ted.jpg

[Volod]

Put together a mid-grade 1951 Bowman set back in the early '80's, when nice looking commons could be had for about a buck. Kind of financially strapped at the time and the ball & chain didn't approve of my hobby, so had to consider the set complete without VG-EX keys Mantle and Mays. I think those two guys at that time were around 200 and 100 bucks, respectively. Twenty five years later and out of my cage, I splurged on these two examples at an even grand for the pair to finally complete the set.

[jchcollins]

I wanted to revive this thread to whine a little. [emoji2957] When shopping in the PSA 5-6 range, it is getting harder and harder to find cards that are well centered AND have good focus/registration. [emoji2959] It is becoming more clear that I am going to have to give in on one or the other. It puts me in the minority, but I am starting to think I would rather give in on centering and keep the nice, clear image. Some corner wear doesn't bother me too much.

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Poor registration to me is worse than slightly o/c as well, but I'm not a centering freak. I'll take a nice picture and 70/30 centering over print problems and 50/50 every time.

[HOF Yankees]

I collect mid to lower end myself depends on the mid grade price and player, damage doesn't bother me either but I like a fully intacted card so when looking at them I can read the front and backs. Most of my 1960 Topps Baseball set is EX to EXMT and some of the lower end commons NM but those are the under 10.00 ones.

[Tripredacus]

I like to put cards into binders, so right there a slabbed or top loader won't do me any good, and also handling of cards and putting them in pages can damage them as well. Personally, I find there is some charm in worn, damaged or otherwise altered cards, and for the most part, I would prefer to have a card of that type in my binders.

I even had recently bought a lot of late 50s/early 60s cards where the original owner had cut up other cards to "update" his older cards, or had written on them. I need cards for a lot of players from back then, and if I can get them at a low price because they are damaged, then that is good for me.

Here is the only pic I took of the cards from this lot, and you can see other low grade cards in the picture also (like the Orlando Pena) or other of the modified cut-up cards like the Don Larsen.
http://i.imgur.com/8PLv6WBl.jpg (https://imgur.com/8PLv6WB)

[johnts1]

I collected '71 to '92 Topps! Still have them all too, and they're all pretty much minty. I have a spot set aside, in my modest, but nice, memorabilia room at home.

[steve B]

I've seldom been all that fussy about condition.

If I need a card, and it's a good deal for what it is I might buy it.
The last few years I have been passing on really worn commons, if a nice one is only a dollar or two more I may as well wait.

[Newton21089]

https://www.flickr.com/photos/181922952@N07/48034448007/in/dateposted-public

https://www.flickr.com/photos/181922952@N07/48034448182/in/dateposted-public

I mostly collect mid grade cards. These are two of my favorite cards in my collection. I think I picked both of them up for less than a $100 dollars.

[Exhibitman]

So how's everyone making out in the great slabbed card scandal of 2019? Nice to be a lower grade collector right about now: I've got no skin in the game.

[SAllen2556]

About 5 years ago I set out to complete my 1969 and a 1972 Topps sets in raw mint condition. Visited card shows, scoured eBay - I was a Greg Morris fan way before he got cool. Looking back, it was way more hassle and expense than it was worth, especially the '72 set (the post-war monster!) Wish I'd just gone for centering and left it at that.

Cards like these are much more fun:
356084
356086
356088

[jchcollins]

So how's everyone making out in the great slabbed card scandal of 2019? Nice to be a lower grade collector right about now: I've got no skin in the game.


I don’t either. Unless someone bothered to doctor my PSA 3 ‘58 Aaron YL or my PSA 2.5 ‘48 Leaf Ted Williams. I seriously hope not...


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[ruth_rookie]

I do not want cards with creases, marks, or paper loss...but other than that, mid grade cards will still have great visual appeal and are fun to handle.

Agreed. Which made me wonder who’s buying the cards with those scarlet letters. Then I quickly realized that, to some extent, it’s me. I simply will not buy a card with a nasty crease, stain, or paper loss. Unless it’s been on my wish list for many years and the violations aren’t too obtrusive. For example, I recently bought a rookie Aaron in a PSA 2 slab. While viewing the front, you scratch your head because you swear you’re looking at a 6 and wonder why in the world it’s only a 2. Then closer examination of the back reveals paper loss the size of a pinhead. So I bought it — paid a grand for an otherwise EX-MT card. I’ll buy those all day long, but they have to be highly desirable cards impossible to find in high grade without getting into a bidding war and, ultimately, paying exponentially more for the same card without the flaw.

[ruth_rookie]

Back to the 1973 Mays for a second. This one (not mine, and I'm not trying to adversely affect whoever is selling it) is on ebay. How in heck did it get a 9???? Look at those bumped/rounded corners and the notch in the upper right (among other things). Yowza!!!!! Why would anyone pay almost $500 for that card?? No purple sticker for you!!!!!!!

317550

This is a perfect example of why I boycotted PSA (way before the Moser/PWCC scandal erupted). No way this is a 9... no way! And recently graded too. Unbelievable...

[ALBB]

Nothing like buying a card graded a 1 or 2......getting it home and saying... what ? " that's what I call VG ++ "

[ruth_rookie]

Someone mentioned buying cards from mail brochures back in the day. I did the same and purchased this “near mint” ‘69 Clemente from a reputable dealer, who now has a seemingly successful eBay business in cards so I won’t call him out. Besides, at the time this actually was considered NM. And I didn’t have any complaints when I received it. Apologies for the crappy iPhone pic; it actually looks better in-hand — definitely not NM though.

[jchcollins]

Besides, at the time this actually was considered NM. And I didn’t have any complaints when I received it.


Truth is that back in the 80’s and earlier, prices for the most part were low enough across the board that ads even for stars and HOF’ers could say something like “EX or better” and 9 times out of 10 nobody cared. Centering was scarcely a consideration at all. A far cry from today when the difference between a PSA 5 and 8 of the same card can be many multiples...


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[Volod]

So how's everyone making out in the great slabbed card scandal of 2019? Nice to be a lower grade collector right about now: I've got no skin in the game.


I'm in your brotherhood, Adam. No worries with a low-to-mid grade unslabbed collection.

[irv]

Over 30 yrs ago I received 148 1952 Topps cards from my Father. Since 2016, when i joined this site, I have been picking away trying my best to add to it as much as I can.

Most he gave me are in the 2 to 4 range with maybe a few 5's here and there. When I purchase cards I normally purchase in that range as they are more affordable and it keeps with the theme/condition of the cards he gave me.

I would love one/a few 8+ graded 52 Topps cards just to say I have one/some, but at the same time, knowing most are out of reach dollar wise, I am glad to be able to purchase more cards than what likely one of those would cost.

When I first joined the site, I didn't concern myself with centering much, but since then, I try my best to find decent centered cards if I can. Top to bottom bothers me a lot less than side to side centering but creases, unless they are subtle or almost invisible in scans, are usually a no go for me.

Currently I am around 306 cards and counting (FlickR link below) and I add here and there when money says I can. :)

In light of the recent scandal involving PWCC, Moser and PSA et al, the above bold is no longer on my wish list.
Like I said in another post, it was pointed out to me on a FB post about a current auction with some nicely graded 52 Topps cards with one being a PSA 9.
The 9 was a beautiful card to look at but my immediate thoughts were "Doctored"
Not saying it was as I have no idea but like I have stated numerous times, I find it hard to believe (sometimes) that these 60-70+ and beyond year old cards managed to stay in this condition for all these years.

[sfmays24]

After being untouched for many years, I finally sorted all my 1970-1976 Topps Baseball, Basketball and Football cards (mostly Ex-Mt) last week. I also found out I need glasses, don't recall the numbers being so hard to see on some sets.

Is anyone working on any of these sets? If so, please send me your want lists and let me know if you have any extra 1973 and 1975 Minis to trade.

Thank you,

Mike

[gustomania]

I kinda like around PSA 3 range that presents well, I got the 65 off here from a fellow member.

https://i.ibb.co/HrgZnr5/2-CEB61-F2-5941-46-C9-A28-F-74-C3-F3-DF8289.jpg (https://ibb.co/K9ynF9T)
https://i.ibb.co/ZcdXy9h/F8-D3084-A-09-A6-4796-B76-E-360-C46-A06481.jpg (https://ibb.co/r5k0n9Z)
https://i.ibb.co/8P3pcr5/D4-A0-B58-F-B6-CC-4-ED8-A5-BE-5476-A7184-FEE.jpg (https://ibb.co/F8vMV5w)
https://i.ibb.co/vHG3TLk/F56-DC1-AC-4799-452-D-BA37-E9-FED773575-E.jpg (https://ibb.co/PNncP1g)
https://i.ibb.co/qJwfpyc/B15048-F4-B99-C-4-D2-C-B4-AF-9938-F7518-D65.jpg (https://ibb.co/XYTgt2K)

[brewing]

Very nice Koufax cards. Other than my Kaline's, I live in the 2-5 range.

[Seven]

One poster made a comment about it before, sure while owning high graded cards would be nice, I get the same amount of joy from the lower graded pieces. I mainly target good eye appeal when I'm looking for a card, the numerical grade doesn't really matter to me.

I think it also comes down to there are Certain cards on my list that I'll never be able to afford in higher grades. I would love a high grade 34 Goudey Gehrig #61 or a high grade t206 Dark Cap Matty, or a high grade 51 Bowman Mantle. However unless I inherit a fortune from an unknown relative or happen to hit the lottery, that's not gonna happen.

Plus there's something romantic about a well worn card in my opinion. It maks you wonder how many hands it passed through? Who collected it i the first place?

[Tere1071]

In December of last year I purchased two fair conditioned 1953 Bowman color commons at a local card show and it ignited a passion I've had since the 1970s to own a complete set. I decided on putting a set together in mostly vg/ex condition as it reflected more or less the types of older cards in the 70s when I was a teenager. eBay has been my main source for purchase, about 156 of the 160 have been obtained from there. To fund my set I have been selling many of my Topps Heritage master sets and SSP variations.

Overall I would rank my set to be in vg/ex + condition with about 45% in vg/ex condition. Thirty-three cards are graded. Most of my high series is still in vg/ex condition. I have been upgrading commons to ex to ex/mint condition here and there. When I began I was able to purchase the high number commons in vg/ex shape from some wonderful eBay dealers anywhere from $3-$5 each, those days, unfortunately, seem to have disappeared. Here is a sample of some of my cards from the set:

[cardsagain74]

In addition to grade 3-5 usually looking pretty good, it often seems like there's less demand for post-war vintage in that range (compared to the many current "gotta have the card" collectors who want to spend as little as possible and thus keep a fairly high floor for the lowest grades' prices).

And naturally the scarcity and higher-end luxury feel to grade 6-7 and above often makes those a totally different ballpark than mid-grade.

So I've always felt that grade 3-5 is clearly the best combo of value and visual appeal. You'd think there would be a lot more others out there who feel the same as many of us here, but the market doesn't really dictate that. Making it the range that I usually focus on for my '50s and '60s collection.

[Natswin2019]

I'm glad this thread got bumped to the top because you guys are my kind of collectors. I like low grade cards for many of the reasons that you guys have already said. I like how it gives them a certain character and makes them feel more real. I usually don't mind if there's a visible crease or 2, if they are off center or have bad corners. The only things that bother me are paper loss, lots of writing or if part of the card are missing. I'm also a big fan of how it allows me to afford more cards in the set that I'm building or more of the random cards that I think are cool.

[jayshum]

I'm glad this thread got bumped to the top because you guys are my kind of collectors. I like low grade cards for many of the reasons that you guys have already said. I like how it gives them a certain character and makes them feel more real. I usually don't mind if there's a visible crease or 2, if they are off center or has bad corners. The only things that bother me are paper loss, lots of writing or if part of the card are missing. I'm also a big fan of how it allows me to afford more cards in the set that I'm building or more of the random cards that I think are cool and to pick up.

I look for the same type of cards as you. It's all about how the card looks, and there are plenty of lower grade cards that look just fine when they are in a binder. I'm fine with some minor creases as long as they don't have a major impact on how the card looks. I also try to avoid paper loss and writing as well as tears and pinholes. There is no way I would have nearly as much in my collection otherwise.

[CobbSpikedMe]

I understand the feeling of not wanting writing on a card in your set, but I love cards like this. I just imagine the kid drawing all over the card back in the 60's and think they are awesome. I'd have a better copy for my set, but definitely like having these in my collection all the same.


.

[Tere1071]

My war crimes against cards:

In 1970 I collected the Odd Rods stickers along with my baseball cards. I stuck the Odd Rods on a box and when they began to come off I glued them to my baseball cards.

Also, my grandmother decided to separate mine and my brother's 1970s by writing "Santa Claus" on the fronts of his cards. He was going through an identity crisis as a 5-year-old at the time, calling himself Santa.

For 1971 I discovered the magic of push pins and I put several of my 71 Topps on the wall by pushing the pin through the dot on the front of the card.

Finally, in 1976, I wanted to display some of my Clemente cards in frames on the wall of my bedroom. Lacking plastic sheets I taped them to the backing of the frames. Needless to say, when I finally decided to remove the cards, it damaged the backs. I had to replace them all.

Just wondering, did any of my former cards end up in anyone's collections?

[mortimer brewster]

I have been collecting since 1978 and have always liked cards in ex-mt or better condition.

Card prices for cards in NM condition (pre 1980) are bordering on the ridiculous.

I attempted to buy a 1975 common in a Greg Morris auction several weeks ago. It was NM with a big print dot. I was willing to pay 2.00. The darn thing sold for 11.50. A bidding war for Larrin freaking Lagrow.

I've come to the conclusion that even tho I don't collect graded cards I am still bidding against investors who are buying cards to grade.

For this reason, mid grade is the way to go. As long as the card has decent centering with honest wear, that's good enough for me.

[jchcollins]

Also, my grandmother decided to separate mine and my brother's 1970s by writing "Santa Claus" on the fronts of his cards. He was going through an identity crisis as a 5-year-old at the time, calling himself Santa.


That's the best anecdote I've heard in quite some time...:D

[jchcollins]

I have mentioned it before, perhaps even somewhere back in the history of this very thread - but to me the tradeoff between midgrade or lower and true high grade cards also comes back to my eventual disappointment with true high grade cards. Whether subconsciously or not, if I buy a vintage card in a PSA 7 or 8, I'm going to expect it to be virtually perfect. The problem there of course is "virtually perfect" cards are 10's, not 7's. I've fallen into that trap again at least once even as recently as this spring - that PSA 7 which was so nice looking actually had an edge ding I'm not happy with, or that SGC 88 which looked great online has dull color in real life. The truth is I would not be unhappy with either card if they had been in the 5 - 6 range and I had paid correspondingly lower for them. But when I pay for higher, I apparently get the problem of unrealistic expectation onset - even though I've known how to properly grade for decades.

[Tere1071]

Two thoughts- Back in the 1970s having a card that was ex/mint was fine. The notion of having something "gem mint" was exploited by a number of the "rock star" dealers who hyped cards as an investment. I remember that even Mr. Mint himself, Al Rosen, initially opposed graded cards, but he sure pushed his other inventory.

Secondly, some of you may be familiar with Bill Heitmann. I once had a conversation with him back in the 80s where we mused on the notion of "gem mint." He noted that most cards are printed on acidic paper which over time breaks down. His point was that the term "gem mint" was a misnomer as our objects of devotion begin to break down little by little over time- much like our significant non-sports card others (my comment, not his.)

A card doesn't have to be "perfect" to validate a collection.

[IgnatiusJReilly]

I have mentioned it before, perhaps even somewhere back in the history of this very thread - but to me the tradeoff between midgrade or lower and true high grade cards also comes back to my eventual disappointment with true high grade cards. Whether subconsciously or not, if I buy a vintage card in a PSA 7 or 8, I'm going to expect it to be virtually perfect. The problem there of course is "virtually perfect" cards are 10's, not 7's. I've fallen into that trap again at least once even as recently as this spring - that PSA 7 which was so nice looking actually had an edge ding I'm not happy with, or that SGC 88 which looked great online has dull color in real life. The truth is I would not be unhappy with either card if they had been in the 5 - 6 range and I had paid correspondingly lower for them. But when I pay for higher, I apparently get the problem of unrealistic expectation onset - even though I've known how to properly grade for decades.


I feel the same way! If I get a great looking 6 I think I got a deal, but if I see a flaw in a 7 I’m annoyed. It’s like my optimism-pessimism for expectations flips.


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[jchcollins]

I feel the same way! If I get a great looking 6 I think I got a deal, but if I see a flaw in a 7 I’m annoyed. It’s like my optimism-pessimism for expectations flips.


I don't have this problem for the most part with 60's cards and earlier because it's rare that I buy a 7 or higher there. But recently for '72 and '76 projects, I decided to buy a few 7's and 8's. Some I was happy with. But the '72 Clemente in an 8 which was basically a 10 with a noticeable edge ding was horrible. I couldn't get over it. I sold the card and bought a slightly o/c 6 for a price I was happy with. (The corners on the 6 are gem, btw. Centering and a minor print flaw were apparently the only problems...) My '76 Nolan Ryan in an SGC 5.5 looks better than my original of the the same card in an 8, which has sharper corners, but horrible dull coloring. So the lesson learned was I apparently don't need to buy super high grade in 70's cards either...:(

[wdwfan]

I love mid grade. It's the only way I can afford to collect. I can't afford NM-Mt or Mint stuff with my budget. I'd rather have a card in Ex over not having it at all. Also, I don't deal with anything graded. I like to put cards into binders when I'm building sets.

That said, I typically look for Ex with no creases, bends, indentations or wrinkles, no paper loss, pin holes, writing, no rounded corners and 70-30 or better centering.

I love seeing all these cards. Makes me want to up my game a bit. But my small budget ($40/week) doesn't allow for that. I'm not like most collectors in that I either have to save up to get something nice, or I have to sell some of my PC in order to get something nicer, quicker.

[jchcollins]

I'm not like most collectors in that I either have to save up to get something nice, or I have to sell some of my PC in order to get something nicer, quicker.

I think you are in a bigger boat than you might imagine. I don't have a huge budget for cards. I generally buy stuff twice a year - around Christmas and my birthday. :) There are some far-between windfalls at times, but for the most part other than that, I will sell parts of my collection that are old or less interesting to me to buy more "new" old cards.

[Tere1071]

I'm in the same boat where I have to use money outside my paycheck which means having to sell parts of my collection. Over the years I have had to get rid of some nice cards and memorabilia to purchase something else. The 53 Bowman set is a keeper, though.

[jb67]

I have enjoyed reading this thread and seeing the different collecting tastes of everyone. Nothing like finding a low-mid-grade card that looks like a 7 or 8 on quick glance. Here are few of my low-mid-grade cards.

https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/rookies-large/72741/1954-hank-aaron-psa-4.5https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/rookies-large/30741/1959-bob-gibson-psa-6
https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/willie-mays-collection-large/36170/1952-willie-mays-psa-3.5https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/willie-mays-collection-large/57868/1953-willie-mays-psa-3
https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/willie-mays-collection-large/68326/1956-willie-mays-psa-1https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/willie-mays-collection-large/30558/1966-willie-mays-psa-5https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/hall-of-famers-baseball/38132/1957-hank-aaron-psa-1

[GasHouseGang]

Wow David, there are some choice cards in that group! What's up with the 1954 Aaron? Looks amazing in the scan.

[jb67]

Wow David, there are some choice cards in that group! What's up with the 1954 Aaron? Looks amazing in the scan.

Thanks. The Aaron has a very tiny wrinkle starting at the top of the card going into the second letter "A" in Aaron. Very hard to see but that is what keeps it under a 5.

[IgnatiusJReilly]

I have enjoyed reading this thread and seeing the different collecting tastes of everyone. Nothing like finding a low-mid-grade card that looks like a 7 or 8 on quick glance. Here are few of my low-mid-grade cards.

https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/rookies-large/72741/1954-hank-aaron-psa-4.5https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/rookies-large/30741/1959-bob-gibson-psa-6
https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/willie-mays-collection-large/36170/1952-willie-mays-psa-3.5https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/willie-mays-collection-large/57868/1953-willie-mays-psa-3
https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/willie-mays-collection-large/68326/1956-willie-mays-psa-1https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/willie-mays-collection-large/30558/1966-willie-mays-psa-5https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/hall-of-famers-baseball/38132/1957-hank-aaron-psa-1


Fantastic examples of mid-grade treasures!


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[jchcollins]

I have enjoyed reading this thread and seeing the different collecting tastes of everyone. Nothing like finding a low-mid-grade card that looks like a 7 or 8 on quick glance. Here are few of my low-mid-grade cards.


Stunning Gibson. Finding one with bright color centered like that is an accomplishment indeed.

[irv]

I have enjoyed reading this thread and seeing the different collecting tastes of everyone. Nothing like finding a low-mid-grade card that looks like a 7 or 8 on quick glance. Here are few of my low-mid-grade cards.



Beautiful cards!

[IgnatiusJReilly]

First off, I love this thread because it perfectly captures my collecting focus and what I believe to be the sweet spot for vintage cards in terms of balancing eye appeal and cost. Great thread!

Here’s a collage of my mid grade 1956 Topps stars. Since creating it I’ve upgraded the Williams and the Reese, but haven’t gotten around to making a new collage. I hope to make a new version in the coming weeks. Thanks for the look:


https://farm66.staticflickr.com/65535/48945216916_7434e9903f_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hz82Lh)


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[Natswin2019]

I look for the same type of cards as you. It's all about how the card looks, and there are plenty of lower grade cards that look just fine when they are in a binder. I'm fine with some minor creases as long as they don't have a major impact on how the card looks. I also try to avoid paper loss and writing as well as tears and pinholes. There is no way I would have nearly as much in my collection otherwise.

Exactly my thinking. Why pay 500$ for a perfect card when I can get the same card for 20$ and the only difference is that the corners are a bit dinged up. I still get the same amount of enjoyment out of the card and can get several more cards with the money I saved.

[jgannon]

I think grading has become a fetish with modern collectors. I like a card in good condition, but so many collectors buy grades, not cards. Who cares? If you want to make money off of people who care about grades, it serves a purpose, I guess. You look at some of those cards in this thread that don't grade high, and to me, they're everything I would ever want in a baseball card. I don't think of them as "mid-grade". I think of them as good baseball cards.

[Tere1071]

I know what you mean. Last night I had hoped to pick up a few PSA 6 commons for my 53 Bowman color from the PWCC auction. The bids on those cards quickly ended that hope! However, there's a dealer on eBay, grpoch, that's selling a number of cards that are in decent, ungraded condition at a heck of a lot less money. I picked up a Billy Pierce that's in excellent condition for a fraction that the one sold for last night.

[jgannon]

I know what you mean. Last night I had hoped to pick up a few PSA 6 commons for my 53 Bowman color from the PWCC auction. The bids on those cards quickly ended that hope! However, there's a dealer on eBay, grpoch, that's selling a number of cards that are in decent, ungraded condition at a heck of a lot less money. I picked up a Billy Pierce that's in excellent condition for a fraction that the one sold for last night.

Yeah, good for you! I'll tell you the truth, I don't like slabs. To me, they're sterile prisons for the card. That's just my opinion of course. I could see putting a T206 Wagner in one, but to me, they overtake the card. I do put my cards in toploaders and also in sleeves. But with the topholder, it's almost like holding the card itself. You can go through them the way you do with cards.

[Tere1071]

Yeah, good for you! I'll tell you the truth, I don't like slabs. To me, they're sterile prisons for the card. That's just my opinion of course. I could see putting a T206 Wagner in one, but to me, they overtake the card. I do put my cards in toploaders and also in sleeves. But with the topholder, it's almost like holding the card itself. You can go through them the way you do with cards.

I prefer raw cards as well, but on the 53 Bowmans with the exception of the Reese and Campanella, I purchased the more expensive cards in slabs due to counterfeiting or doctoring cards. I posted a few of them on this page if you scroll up a bit. Eventually, I would like to trade my slabbed cards for their raw equivalents, but the non-slabbed cards would have to be in equal condition. If I had the money or could trade I wouldn't mind going for something that was raw that would be better than what I have slabbed.

[TexasDan]

Ignatius - I like your 56 collection. I am slowly working on a 56 HoF run myself. I have decided to pick up graded cards for this project.

[Exhibitman]

In the current price bubble even our stuff is going crazy. I saw a 1957 Topps Bill Russell in a PSA 1.5 holder sell for $3199 the other night. My VG Aaron RC is worth more than I got for a NM one I sold several years ago.

[jchcollins]

I saw a 1957 Topps Bill Russell in a PSA 1.5 holder sell for $3199 the other night.

I had no idea that Russell card was even in that ballpark. I know a '56 Topps Jackie Robinson in lower grade used to be something you could pickup for less than $100, recently a PSA 2 sold for more than $300. :eek:

[jgannon]

I prefer raw cards as well, but on the 53 Bowmans with the exception of the Reese and Campanella, I purchased the more expensive cards in slabs due to counterfeiting or doctoring cards. I posted a few of them on this page if you scroll up a bit. Eventually, I would like to trade my slabbed cards for their raw equivalents, but the non-slabbed cards would have to be in equal condition. If I had the money or could trade I wouldn't mind going for something that was raw that would be better than what I have slabbed.

Yeah, I can understand the concern about counterfeiting and doctoring. It's sad that things have gotten to that. You can always take your slabbed cards out of the slabs too!

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

Yeah, good for you! I'll tell you the truth, I don't like slabs. To me, they're sterile prisons for the card. That's just my opinion of course. I could see putting a T206 Wagner in one, but to me, they overtake the card. I do put my cards in toploaders and also in sleeves. But with the topholder, it's almost like holding the card itself. You can go through them the way you do with cards.

I posted in this thread way back and thought I was done, but I enjoy it so darn much! You guys are like my brothers from another mother! I don't really like slabs either, and I wonder how many collectors truly do? In no way am I trying to down how someone else collects. If someone likes collecting them, more power to them. No judgment from me whatsoever.

I am a bit frustrated though. At times I rant and rave about slabs, and I know I greatly prefer ungraded cards. Yet, many times when it comes that magical experience I like to call "buying time," I don't always find just a ton of ungraded options that I really feel good about. I have cracked slabs in my time but not lately. So, yes, I do have some lower to mid grade cards in a binder as part of sets, and I love them. I love handling them, smelling them, reading them, shuffling them, etc. But I also have a box with several slabs in them, and this is where most of the "value" of my collection rests.

I guess it doesn't have to be all one way or the other. Perhaps a little of both isn't the worst thing in the world. When buying a graded card, I still try and do my due diligence just as I would when buying an ungraded card. I believe in some cases, slabs have made us lazy in that we as collectors sometimes think we don't have to know as much about the cards we buy because the TPGer has done that work for us. As we all know, there are altered cards in TPGer slabs. I don't blindly accept their opinions. Plus, I want to do that work. That is collecting.

[jgannon]

I posted in this thread way back and thought I was done, but I enjoy it so darn much! You guys are like my brothers from another mother! I don't really like slabs either, and I wonder how many collectors truly do? In no way am I trying to down how someone else collects. If someone likes collecting them, more power to them. No judgment from me whatsoever.

I am a bit frustrated though. At times I rant and rave about slabs, and I know I greatly prefer ungraded cards. Yet, many times when it comes that magical experience I like to call "buying time," I don't always find just a ton of ungraded options that I really feel good about. I have cracked slabs in my time but not lately. So, yes, I do have some lower to mid grade cards in a binder as part of sets, and I love them. I love handling them, smelling them, reading them, shuffling them, etc. But I also have a box with several slabs in them, and this is where most of the "value" of my collection rests.

I guess it doesn't have to be all one way or the other. Perhaps a little of both isn't the worst thing in the world. When buying a graded card, I still try and do my due diligence just as I would when buying an ungraded card. I believe in some cases, slabs have made us lazy in that we as collectors sometimes think we don't have to know as much about the cards we buy because the TPGer has done that work for us. As we all know, there are altered cards in TPGer slabs. I don't blindly accept their opinions. Plus, I want to do that work. That is collecting.

Hey Robert -

Yeah, my whole thing about slabs, is that to me, it represents where the hobby got too cutthroat and mercenary. People concentrating more on the the resale value of the card, the card as an "investment", that kind of stuff. But there are also collector's who truly like that presentation, and like you say, if that's how they like to collect, it's cool. And with some cards also, it might be a good idea to buy a graded card to be on the safe side.

You know, I didn't really realize that this thread is over 2 years old! I'm going to go back and read the thread.

I had a huge collection of cards that I foolishly gave away. Mostly 60s and 70s stuff, with some 50s thrown in as well. Also had some football, basketball, and hockey. It really started to bother me a few years ago, and I got back into collecting last year, saying to myself, "Well, I'll never get the cards I had back at the price I got them at, but there's no reason why I can't buy a card I NEVER had!!" So, I bought a 1960 Topps Roger Maris. And that opened the floodgates, and I have since been acquiring many of the old cards I had, as well as ones I never did. I have a lot of them sitting on top of my piano, along with some family pictures and mementos. I love just going over there and looking at everything, putting a different card on top of the pile for a while, adding new cards, etc.

You know, when we talk about condition, I have a funny story. My cousin's son, was enthusiastic about cards, and he told me that a friend of his was really into it, and might like to buy some of the things I had. So, I went over with some doubles I had. I remember having a 1972 Nolan Ryan, but can't remember the other cards. At any rate, the kid gets over there (I was in my 30s at the time) and this kid, cold as ice, starts looking at the cards, and doesn't want one of them. I thought these were like mint cards, and he's pointing out so-called blemishes, and the centering - things that I never considered or noticed. These were good cards! It was a revelation to me that anyone would look at them like he was!

So, he left, and later on, my cousin's son went out, and I was just talking with my cousin and her husband for awhile. When I left, I just left all the cards for my cousin's son.

[Tere1071]

Yeah, I can understand the concern about counterfeiting and doctoring. It's sad that things have gotten to that. You can always take your slabbed cards out of the slabs too!

I've seen where people break them out of their holders. These days it seems that many collectors trust graded over non-graded cards and that's why I thought about trading my slabs for their raw equivalent, it might be a win/win of sorts. I guess the only complications would be that I would want to see the card I'm trading for in person and I wouldn't want to swap with a dealer who would want to trade to their advantage.

I saw your posting about taking some of your doubles to trade to a young collector who coldly turned them away. When I was 12 back in 1973 I put an ad in a local paper looking to trade cards. An adult by the name of Tom Tankersley responded and he brought over some 1957s. He allowed me to get the better end of the deal, for him it was important to get younger people involved in the hobby. That day some of the cards I remember getting were the Amoros, Kluszweski, Erskine, Robin Roberts, and Burdette. The Burdette had a crease and the others were probably in VG/EX condition, but it didn't matter- I got some really cool older cards. When it becomes a commodity the fun and wonderment disappear.

[IgnatiusJReilly]

Ignatius - I like your 56 collection. I am slowly working on a 56 HoF run myself. I have decided to pick up graded cards for this project.


Thanks! Enjoy putting together your 56 HOF run. I started my set in 2006 and “completed” it in 2017. Been doing small upgrades ever since and have really enjoyed it.


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[jgannon]

I've seen where people break them out of their holders. These days it seems that many collectors trust graded over non-graded cards and that's why I thought about trading my slabs for their raw equivalent, it might be a win/win of sorts. I guess the only complications would be that I would want to see the card I'm trading for in person and I wouldn't want to swap with a dealer who would want to trade to their advantage.

I saw your posting about taking some of your doubles to trade to a young collector who coldly turned them away. When I was 12 back in 1973 I put an ad in a local paper looking to trade cards. An adult by the name of Tom Tankersley responded and he brought over some 1957s. He allowed me to get the better end of the deal, for him it was important to get younger people involved in the hobby. That day some of the cards I remember getting were the Amoros, Kluszweski, Erskine, Robin Roberts, and Burdette. The Burdette had a crease and the others were probably in VG/EX condition, but it didn't matter- I got some really cool older cards. When it becomes a commodity the fun and wonderment disappear.

That's a great story. And we remember their names. I have a similar story. I had put an ad in the local Pennysaver, and a Mr Siebert called, and one, weeknight, this would be the early 70's, on a school night after dinner, we drove over to Snowball Dr. and met with him. I would have been probably 14 or so.

Mr. Siebert had a very large collection of 1930's and 1940's cards, and he told us he had another buyer who was very interested in them, but he told me he would set some aside for me. I had a good knowledge of the history of the game and the older players, and I remember him saying, "I have an idea what you like."

So a week or so went by and he called again and told us to come over. And I remember him saying he made quite a bit of money on the cards he sold, but he set aside for me some 1939 and 1940 Play Ball cards of DiMaggio, Hubbell, Williams, Mel Ott, Lefty Gomez, George Selkirk and several more. There was also a 1934 Goudey Jimmy Foxx. He let me have them for, as I remember it, $20. I still have those cards, and I will never forget that man.

[jchcollins]

So - given that we are in a "bubble" - has anyone here cashed in even on some mid- to lower grade cards? I will admit I'm stunned at what some offgrade stuff is going for - particularly with Jackie Robinson and Mickey Mantle cards. I haven't sold a ton this year, but when I did I more than made my money back. Other experiences? Keep on collecting what you love!

[jchcollins]

I still have those cards, and I will never forget that man.

Great story! I literally have dreams of coming across such finds.

[sfmays24]

Anyone have a mid grade (Ex or better) 1973 Topps #614 for sale or trade?

[STM56]

My war crimes against cards:

In 1970 I collected the Odd Rods stickers along with my baseball cards. I stuck the Odd Rods on a box and when they began to come off I glued them to my baseball cards.

Also, my grandmother decided to separate mine and my brother's 1970s by writing "Santa Claus" on the fronts of his cards. He was going through an identity crisis as a 5-year-old at the time, calling himself Santa.

For 1971 I discovered the magic of push pins and I put several of my 71 Topps on the wall by pushing the pin through the dot on the front of the card.

Finally, in 1976, I wanted to display some of my Clemente cards in frames on the wall of my bedroom. Lacking plastic sheets I taped them to the backing of the frames. Needless to say, when I finally decided to remove the cards, it damaged the backs. I had to replace them all.

Just wondering, did any of my former cards end up in anyone's collections?

Along these lines recently I had a conversation with a childhood friend about our card collections. We both have our original cards from the 60’s/70’s. I told him that I had sent some of my cards in for grading and he got interested and asked a few questions about the process. I asked him about the condition of his cards and he indicated that they were in pretty good shape. After a few more minutes he said “at some point I decided I needed to be able to identify my cards in case they got stolen or mixed up with somebody else’s cards so I took a hole punch and punched holes in the top left corner of my cards”. I think my reply was “Ouch that’s not good”.

[MikeGarcia]

Along these lines recently I had a conversation with a childhood friend about our card collections. We both have our original cards from the 60’s/70’s. I told him that I had sent some of my cards in for grading and he got interested and asked a few questions about the process. I asked him about the condition of his cards and he indicated that they were in pretty good shape. After a few more minutes he said “at some point I decided I needed to be able to identify my cards in case they got stolen or mixed up with somebody else’s cards so I took a hole punch and punched holes in the top left corner of my cards”. I think my reply was “Ouch that’s not good”.

http://imagehost.vendio.com/a/2042957/view/1960CARLYAZ_NEW.JPG

..

[DeanH3]

I haven't sold any vintage lately. I did move a few modern cards this summer to fund vintage buys and I have no regrets on those. I certainly could make a few bucks from the vintage I bought just a couple years ago. But, I don't have any plans to sell.

It's really nice to see these mid grade gems get the attention they deserve. I expect the trend to continue as more people recognize the value offered. Thanks to all for sharing.

https://www.net54baseball.com/picture.php?albumid=813&pictureid=28307https://www.net54baseball.com/picture.php?albumid=813&pictureid=28223

https://www.net54baseball.com/picture.php?albumid=813&pictureid=28360https://www.net54baseball.com/picture.php?albumid=813&pictureid=22527

[Exhibitman]

I've sold a bunch and plan to sell a bunch more. I am 'streamlining' my collection, clearing out the odds and ends I've accumulated over the last 30 years, because I can do it profitably now.

I did pick up a 55 Topps Mays. I've been procrastinating over one for a while and decided to get it done with some of the proceeds of the sales.

[71buc]

Adam the 1955 Mays is my favorite Mays card. It’s a thing of beauty. I have one in a SGC 6 slab I purchased long ago. I collect raw cards when I can inspect them in hand unless I win them from Cleansweep. Otherwise I buy PSA/SGC 6s on line. Cards in those slabs have become pricey, at least for me, lately. I settled for a nice centered 1954 Banks PSA 4 last year that was nicer and cheaper than many PSA 5 and 6s I’ve seen. That 4 now sells for a similar amount that a 5 or 6 would have cost me last year. I don’t think that rookie cards of Banks, Clemente, Gibson and their ilk will return to pre-pandemic prices so I maybe lowering my standards and start buyin nice 4s and 5s.

[jb67]

I sold some of my vintage basketball (profits too good to pass on) during the big upswing in prices and redirected some of the profits to cards in the mid to lower grade with nice eye-appeal. Trying to refocus my collection on rookie cards.

I believe mid-grade is not a bad way to go in the future as high-grade prices of some cards are going to be too expensive for most. I believe the demand for mid-grade cards will be strong as more collectors jump on the band wagon.

https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/rookies-large/75216/1951-mickey-mantle-psa-1.5https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/rookies-large/72529/1957-johnny-unitas-psa-2https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/rookies-large/72656/1958-jim-brown-psa-4https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/rookies-large/75134/1935-bronko-nagurski-psa-2.5https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/rookies-large/72741/1954-hank-aaron-psa-4.5

[irv]

I sold some of my vintage basketball (profits too good to pass on) during the big upswing in prices and redirected some of the profits to cards in the mid to lower grade with nice eye-appeal. Trying to refocus my collection on rookie cards.

I believe mid-grade is not a bad way to go in the future as high-grade prices of some cards are going to be too expensive for most. I believe the demand for mid-grade cards will be strong as more collectors jump on the band wagon.



Very nice cards, David!!

I would have no issue owning any of those! :)

[jb67]

[QUOTE=DeanH3;2038685]I haven't sold any vintage lately. I did move a few modern cards this summer to fund vintage buys and I have no regrets on those. I certainly could make a few bucks from the vintage I bought just a couple years ago. But, I don't have any plans to sell.

It's really nice to see these mid grade gems get the attention they deserve. I expect the trend to continue as more people recognize the value offered. Thanks to all for sharing.

https://www.net54baseball.com/picture.php?albumid=813&pictureid=28307[IMG]https://www.net54baseball.com/picture.php?albumid=813&pictureid=28223[/IMG

Love that Mays!!! Not to mention the rest of the 57’s you posted.

[DeanH3]

Thanks David. You posted some beauties as well. Awesome stuff!

[Chicosbailbonds]

That is a great 57 Mays.

[BillP]

I consider myself a mid grade collector. What I look for in a card is good focus of the picture, decent centering but not diamond cut, and reasonable corners. Generally between a 4 and 6. With my 57's and 58's it's more about focus on the card.

[IgnatiusJReilly]

I sold some of my vintage basketball (profits too good to pass on) during the big upswing in prices and redirected some of the profits to cards in the mid to lower grade with nice eye-appeal. Trying to refocus my collection on rookie cards.

I believe mid-grade is not a bad way to go in the future as high-grade prices of some cards are going to be too expensive for most. I believe the demand for mid-grade cards will be strong as more collectors jump on the band wagon.

https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/rookies-large/75216/1951-mickey-mantle-psa-1.5https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/rookies-large/72529/1957-johnny-unitas-psa-2https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/rookies-large/72656/1958-jim-brown-psa-4https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/rookies-large/75134/1935-bronko-nagurski-psa-2.5https://www.collectorfocus.com/images/show/JBrules/rookies-large/72741/1954-hank-aaron-psa-4.5


What an amazing group of cards. That 1.5 Mantle is insane! Definitely one of the nicest I’ve ever seen in that grade.

While we are in a very heated market, I have been unwilling to part with any of my cards. My 1956 Topps set was built around the idea that mid grade cards were affordable but that boat seems to have left the dock these days. I’m taking a wait and see approach before adding more vintage. I really really want a 54 Banks in a 5 or 6 but I don’t think I can swing it at these prices.


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[jchcollins]

I got out of the prewar business for the most part earlier this year, and reinvested some of those proceeds into random cards that have been on my list in one way or another for years. Probably the biggest thing was upgrading my '56 Mantle gray back (from an SGC A to a SGC 4) but the rest were just things I had never gotten done: Reggie Jackson RC. '55 Bowman Banks. '71 Clemente. '72 Hank Aaron...

[Exhibitman]

Adam the 1955 Mays is my favorite Mays card. It’s a thing of beauty. I have one in a SGC 6 slab I purchased long ago. I collect raw cards when I can inspect them in hand unless I win them from Cleansweep. Otherwise I buy PSA/SGC 6s on line. Cards in those slabs have become pricey, at least for me, lately. I settled for a nice centered 1954 Banks PSA 4 last year that was nicer and cheaper than many PSA 5 and 6s I’ve seen. That 4 now sells for a similar amount that a 5 or 6 would have cost me last year. I don’t think that rookie cards of Banks, Clemente, Gibson and their ilk will return to pre-pandemic prices so I maybe lowering my standards and start buyin nice 4s and 5s.

A 3 worked just fine for me.

https://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1955%20Topps%20Mays.jpg

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

A 3 worked just fine for me.

https://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1955%20Topps%20Mays.jpg

Great, great card! Nothing wrong with that at all. The last year or so, I have been going this direction, too.

[wdwfan]

I probably posted way earlier in this thread saying that I strictly collect raw stuff in the Ex range. Well, well. My how times have changed.

I sold off a bunch of my newer, modern stuff and picked up my first graded cards about a week ago. Now I'm hooked. I find that it's so much easier to move vintage graded. Heck, I'm having trouble moving my ungraded Ex or better stuff (want to move it and buy vintage graded).

I find that I like the 5-6 range with focus on eye appeal. This was my first pickup. I paid a whole lot for it ($375 including tax) at the LCS, but I've been able to pick up a few other random vintage graded, and now I have 6 graded cards.

When considering graded, I always thought I'd like the look of SGC with the black frames. But I got one in hand, and I don't like it. Plus, I'm very CDO. So I want everything the same (PSA).

Anyway, I love vintage and collecting mid-grade stuff.


https://i.imgur.com/CQdAERX.jpg?1

[DeanH3]

I probably posted way earlier in this thread saying that I strictly collect raw stuff in the Ex range. Well, well. My how times have changed.

I sold off a bunch of my newer, modern stuff and picked up my first graded cards about a week ago. Now I'm hooked. I find that it's so much easier to move vintage graded. Heck, I'm having trouble moving my ungraded Ex or better stuff (want to move it and buy vintage graded).

I find that I like the 5-6 range with focus on eye appeal. This was my first pickup. I paid a whole lot for it ($375 including tax) at the LCS, but I've been able to pick up a few other random vintage graded, and now I have 6 graded cards.

When considering graded, I always thought I'd like the look of SGC with the black frames. But I got one in hand, and I don't like it. Plus, I'm very CDO. So I want everything the same (PSA).

Anyway, I love vintage and collecting mid-grade stuff.


https://i.imgur.com/CQdAERX.jpg?1

Nice Splendid Splinter. One that is on my watch list to eventually add. Congrats!

[thecomebacker]

Got the J-Rob from another member here:
https://photos.smugmug.com/1952-Topps-Baseball/i-MpgD9ww/0/7f30b539/L/B24FDF11-863E-4D83-BA18-16D23FCF38D8-L.jpg (https://thecomebacker.smugmug.com/1952-Topps-Baseball/i-MpgD9ww/A). https://photos.smugmug.com/Willie-Mays/i-9rHJ2xp/0/dd5d861c/L/0B7BED9A-EDD3-48F4-BAB7-6013CA9B11DA-L.jpg (https://thecomebacker.smugmug.com/Willie-Mays/i-9rHJ2xp/A)

https://photos.smugmug.com/Willie-Mays/i-n6m6Pk5/0/52542258/L/C95A0806-4459-457A-A5BD-5B5D9DB09249-L.jpg (https://thecomebacker.smugmug.com/Willie-Mays/i-n6m6Pk5/A)

[Exhibitman]

That 52 Robinson, and I say this with an unblemished record of staunch heterosexuality, is fabulous.

[DeanH3]

I agree with Adam. Amazing Jackie. That '51 Bowman Williams is no slouch either. Thanks for sharing.

[IgnatiusJReilly]

Got the J-Rob from another member here:
https://photos.smugmug.com/1952-Topps-Baseball/i-MpgD9ww/0/7f30b539/L/B24FDF11-863E-4D83-BA18-16D23FCF38D8-L.jpg (https://thecomebacker.smugmug.com/1952-Topps-Baseball/i-MpgD9ww/A). https://photos.smugmug.com/Willie-Mays/i-9rHJ2xp/0/dd5d861c/L/0B7BED9A-EDD3-48F4-BAB7-6013CA9B11DA-L.jpg (https://thecomebacker.smugmug.com/Willie-Mays/i-9rHJ2xp/A)

https://photos.smugmug.com/Willie-Mays/i-n6m6Pk5/0/52542258/L/C95A0806-4459-457A-A5BD-5B5D9DB09249-L.jpg (https://thecomebacker.smugmug.com/Willie-Mays/i-n6m6Pk5/A)


Wow, that’s a strong group of cards. Nice job!


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[irv]

I agree with Adam. Amazing Jackie. That '51 Bowman Williams is no slouch either. Thanks for sharing.

X3. Beautiful looking Jackie, and the centering/condition of the other 2 are also something to behold.

Great cards!

[jchcollins]

Oh are we showing off cards again? [emoji851] Here are some more “mid-grade” pickups from this year. Reggie and the '65 Mantle were liberated from graded slabs. Anyone care to venture what they were? [emoji16]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201202/2323aa97d1d3e76c686fb2fd1f9bcd10.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201202/cb1ad9c17f6f231736de9b7580ed4ef0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201202/f0bef688adc905f5a59a17a4a052568e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201202/fcf311c46ff221ee3f254fa192f8301f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201202/7852f7490f82b65d627195ebfcd781b5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201202/e2e7d6211d15acfc069cf3194161b0f9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201202/24da494c876e59aa72dd877e75d8103f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201202/4c33725f6322fd683e3a5498b06121a7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201202/31f1a7623da17407c15b811c3fc3d2b3.jpg














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[DeanH3]

Fantastic cards John. Can never get enough eye candy!

I'd guess Reggie and Mick were both 5's that have much better eye appeal than the grade.

[jchcollins]

Fantastic cards John. Can never get enough eye candy!

I'd guess Reggie and Mick were both 5's that have much better eye appeal than the grade.

Close. Reggie was a PSA 6, and the Mantle was the nicest SGC 5 I've ever seen. ;)

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

Oh are we showing off cards again? [emoji851] Here are some more “mid-grade” pickups from this year. Reggie and the '65 Mantle were liberated from graded slabs. Anyone care to venture what they were? [emoji16]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201202/2323aa97d1d3e76c686fb2fd1f9bcd10.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201202/cb1ad9c17f6f231736de9b7580ed4ef0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201202/f0bef688adc905f5a59a17a4a052568e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201202/fcf311c46ff221ee3f254fa192f8301f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201202/7852f7490f82b65d627195ebfcd781b5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201202/e2e7d6211d15acfc069cf3194161b0f9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201202/24da494c876e59aa72dd877e75d8103f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201202/4c33725f6322fd683e3a5498b06121a7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201202/31f1a7623da17407c15b811c3fc3d2b3.jpg














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nice eye candy, John. I forgot you had some of those ('63 Banks for one).

[jb67]

[QUOTE=thecomebacker;2040856]Got the J-Rob from another member here:

Those are some stunning cards. The eye-appeal J-Rob, Willie and Ted are tremendous.

[thecomebacker]

[QUOTE=thecomebacker;2040856]Got the J-Rob from another member here:

Those are some stunning cards. The eye-appeal J-Rob, Willie and Ted are tremendous.

Thank you jb67! Your cards are amazing as well! All great centering and tremendous eye appeal. The Mantle RC is Insane for the grade! And I need your 52 Mays 3.5 desperately, lol. If ever available, please let me know : )


A couple more RC that I think looks better than the grade.
The Ryan I bought from another member here less than a year ago.
The Bench I bought on eBay around the same time for less than $100!

https://photos.smugmug.com/Misc-Collection/i-rpnLZHC/0/281707b6/L/C5C99943-6812-4811-9AEB-8CB3299B8B90-L.jpg (https://thecomebacker.smugmug.com/Misc-Collection/i-rpnLZHC/A) https://photos.smugmug.com/Misc-Collection/i-srFWLQr/0/7dd1ffd1/L/669D2095-B395-4CE4-AAB6-889225D5C84F-L.jpg (https://thecomebacker.smugmug.com/Misc-Collection/i-srFWLQr/A)

[Exhibitman]

That is too funny, Ed, I have the same PSA 2.5 version of a Bench RC:

https://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1968%20Topps%20Bench.jpg

I got mine raw out of a collection I bought several years ago and sent it in myself.

Wish there'd been a Ryan in there...But I did find a few other mid-grade gems:

https://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1969%20Topps%20Jackson.jpg
https://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous5/websize/1969%20Topps%20Bench.jpg

Not that I'd call the all star mid-grade but it was in the same collection.

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

A few of my favorite mid-grade cards that I've picked up over the years.

[GasHouseGang]

Robert, that 57 Mantle looks amazing for the grade. I picked up this beauty off of the board's B/S/T.

[tonyo]

I've enjoyed scanning this thread. I'm a low grade collector so most of the cards shown here look practically perfect to me.

Just for fun, I once decided to self-grade all my t206's.
I assigned a 1,2,3,or 4 to each of 5 categories then averaged for my overall grade.

here are the categories :
Creases,
border,
front clean,
front paper loss,
back overall.

Here is the scale I used:
4-good
3-minor
2-tolerable
1-distracting

thought you all may find that amusing!

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

Robert, that 57 Mantle looks amazing for the grade. I picked up this beauty off of the board's B/S/T.

Thank you very much, David! That Campy is smoking! I had one of those many years ago. Seeing yours makes me think I need one again.

[thecomebacker]

Very Nice Bench 2.5 Adam, LOL!
Love your 69 Jackson and Benches as well.
Soooo tough to get a centered Jackson RC like yours!

[GasHouseGang]

Thank you very much, David! That Campy is smoking! I had one of those many years ago. Seeing yours makes me think I need one again.

Yeah, I just couldn't pass it up. 1951 was the first of his three MVP years.

[Exhibitman]

Very Nice Bench 2.5 Adam, LOL!
Love your 69 Jackson and Benches as well.
Soooo tough to get a centered Jackson RC like yours!

That's true. My raw one is slightly OC

https://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/freaksandgeeks/websize/1969%20Jackson%20miscut_1.jpg

[gustomania]

Love this thread, just added a mid-grade

https://i.ibb.co/ftybSm9/4473510-E-2-E3-B-4-DAA-9627-E5-EC54719-C9-E.jpg (https://ibb.co/mt2mBQ0)

[IgnatiusJReilly]

A few of my favorite mid-grade cards that I've picked up over the years.


Love the borders on that 57! Also, that 48 Williams is an underrated card. Such an iconic image! Nice job.


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[smellthegum]

Great cards fellas, I'm really enjoying this thread! jb67's 4.5 Aaron in particular is just fantastic! (so are many others, but that one just jumps out at me). I'm finding that mid-grade looks better and better as I age and my eyesight diminishes...it's getting harder to see with the naked eye those minute flaws that used to drive me nuts!

I collect mostly ungraded but here are a few encased mid-grade favorites that I've picked up along the way.

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

Great cards fellas, I'm really enjoying this thread! jb67's 4.5 Aaron in particular is just fantastic! (so are many others, but that one just jumps out at me). I'm finding that mid-grade looks better and better as I age and my eyesight diminishes...it's getting harder to see with the naked eye those minute flaws that used to drive me nuts!

I collect mostly ungraded but here are a few encased mid-grade favorites that I've picked up along the way.

Great cards, I especially like that Pafko!

[gustomania]

Sold some duplicates and picked up this beauty

https://i.ibb.co/qNWy9tX/E6-B3-F81-E-01-A6-4299-9-F1-B-864-EE5-AF1-B51.jpg (https://ibb.co/0CFDZg8)

[IgnatiusJReilly]

Sold some duplicates and picked up this beauty

https://i.ibb.co/qNWy9tX/E6-B3-F81-E-01-A6-4299-9-F1-B-864-EE5-AF1-B51.jpg (https://ibb.co/0CFDZg8)


That’s a sharp 4.5. Nice work!


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[jchcollins]

Sold some duplicates and picked up this beauty

https://i.ibb.co/qNWy9tX/E6-B3-F81-E-01-A6-4299-9-F1-B-864-EE5-AF1-B51.jpg (https://ibb.co/0CFDZg8)

Beauty! I have the '56 Clemente in a gray back 4.5. I really love the half grades. In many cases they aren't terribly more expensive than VCP for the full grade, and they are usually fantastic looking cards.

[gustomania]

Thanks guys, really appreciate it.

Chad

[Tere1071]

Delete, had problems uploading images.

[jb67]

[QUOTE=gustomania;2047014]Sold some duplicates and picked up this beauty

Great looking Koufax. Well done!!!

[Clemaz]

Hera are some mid grade cards that came in the mail this week https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201219/c825d21f84b8cb2e5084031d527aac5d.jpg


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[DeanH3]

Sold some duplicates and picked up this beauty

https://i.ibb.co/qNWy9tX/E6-B3-F81-E-01-A6-4299-9-F1-B-864-EE5-AF1-B51.jpg (https://ibb.co/0CFDZg8)

Nice grab! I had that one on my watchlist. It's a beauty!

[Exhibitman]

Dead centered and slightly soft corners is a nice presentation.

[gustomania]

Thanks, I was watching it for a while....in the end just such a nice mid grade example.

[Tere1071]

My 53 Bowman set ranges from a few cards in vg to near mint, with the majority in either vg/ex to excellent condition. I'm trying to upgrade my vg/ex cards to excellent but as the gap price-wise seems to be widening, my major stars will have to remain untouched unless I can either sell other parts of my collection and try to wrangle some trades.

[gustomania]

Finally found a nicely centered copy, and honestly could care less on grade.

https://i.ibb.co/qd22PKx/DC19-AF3-D-2-BC6-4-A7-B-A6-AA-120-FDC7-D243-A.jpg (https://ibb.co/DtjjShL)

[jchcollins]

Finally found a nicely centered copy, and honestly could care less on grade.

https://i.ibb.co/qd22PKx/DC19-AF3-D-2-BC6-4-A7-B-A6-AA-120-FDC7-D243-A.jpg (https://ibb.co/DtjjShL)

Congrats! That one is very difficult to find nicely centered. I used to have a 6, but it was off about as much as a 6 could be off left to right.

[gustomania]

Thanks, I’ve been looking for about 18 months, ran across a few but either I missed them or they seemed to be trimmed so passed on them. But in terms of anything a PSA 4 or lower I think this has been one of the only I’ve seen so couldn’t pass up. Plus the last one need for his basic topps run which is nice!

[jchcollins]

Thanks, I’ve been looking for about 18 months, ran across a few but either I missed them or they seemed to be trimmed so passed on them. But in terms of anything a PSA 4 or lower I think this has been one of the only I’ve seen so couldn’t pass up. Plus the last one need for his basic topps run which is nice!

Congrats on finishing the run, that's neat. Yeah the conformities of professional grading aside, eye appeal can be different things to different people. In fact - that is mainly what this thread is about. That's a beautiful card!

[pcelli]

I love your kind of collecting , its collecting in its purest form. Slab collecting can be adapted to any range of condition or pricing. I buy both..Great stuff out there in lower range. I believe most people are focused on centering over all other attributes ( my view ) but old fashioned eye appeal works for me best..

[jchcollins]

I believe most people are focused on centering over all other attributes ( my view ) but old fashioned eye appeal works for me best..

Centering went from a preferences thing to a hard hobby condition judgment point in the early 2000's with the rise of TPG popularity. In the 80's and early 90's before grading, most collectors looked for cards with sharp corners over and above centering unless a card was just badly OC or miscut. Funny how times have changed. I'm not a centering freak, I guess in part because this is the era I came up in. I will generally go for a card with a better surface and image and coloring that's mildly OC, over one that is perfectly centered but lesser in those areas.

You are right though, sometimes you just have to eyeball a particular card and see how you feel about it. This is what too many slab-only collectors today seem to have lost the ability to do, in some cases it seems to me.