Grades you'd take for Topps vs OPC vs Venezuela

[MCoxon]

I'm a player collector and have finished most of the mainstream runs, am now about 50% through OPC runs, and am starting on Venezuela runs.

I'm only curious and thought it would be interesting to see how others would collect these, adjusting for condition. In other words, what's the grade "delta" that would make the cards "equally attractive" in your eyes. Especially given scarcity and condition-sensitivity, particularly for Venezuelans

Example: 1968 Hank Aaron. To make these equal in my eyes:

** 68 Topps Aaron PSA 7 = 68 OPC PSA 6 = 68 Venezuela PSA 4 **

So, a 1-grade delta between Topps and OPC makes me think they're equally worthwhile, and I'd go 2-3 grades lower on Venezuelans.

I'm sure I could look at price differences and see how the market views it; but what do you collectors think?

[hcv123]

It really depends on the specific card. For example, my experience is that there are some venezuelans that are more available in "better" condition. For example - I collect Clemente:

1966 should be attainable in a 5 or better equivalent of say an 8 or 8.5 in Topps (even though there is likely a larger Topps population - I thin kthe Venezuelans have along way to go in terms of market price appreciation.

1962 Perhaps a 4 or better

1967 - good luck finding one in any grade

1968 3 or better

In my experience 1964 and 1966 Venezuelans are "around" in mid grades. 1962 a bit less so, but still around, 1959, 1967 and 1968 - MUCH tougher.

[TheNightmanCometh]

For me, I don't really collect based off of grade, but if I had to put a grade on what I collect it would go as follows...

Topps: PSA 6; nicely centered

Topps OPC: PSA 6; as centered as I can get it.

Topps VZ: PSA 1; zero paper loss on the front.

[Cliff Bowman]

I would take a -2 Putrid grade on a 1968 Topps Venezuelan Byron Browne or a 1972 Topps Venezuelan Jose Cardenal just to have either one.

[Bestdj777]

I'd take a 1 in Topps, OPC, or Venezuelan. The Topps and OPC are a dime a dozen, so my philosophy is why waste the money? The Venezuelans just aren't prevalent in anything more than a 2.

[Jim65]

It greatly depends on the card, I would buy a 1967 Ron Swoboda if it were torn in half and stapled back together.

For others, I prefer no back damage but I don't live or die by that rule.

[Exhibitman]

For VZ condition is irrelevant to me; I take what I can afford and tolerate. Everyone has their own preferences. I prefer this 64 Aaron:

https://photos.imageevent.com/exhibitman/miscellaneous4/websize/1964%20Topps%20Venezuelan%20Aaron%201.JPG

to one that is complete but with a big paper pull across the back. The front is the 1964 Topps front, which I can get in a 1964 Topps card, but the back is where the difference is.

[Rrrlyons]

This sums up my experience also for Venezuelans. You should be able to pick any grade your comfortable for topps/OPC.

In my experience 1964 and 1966 Venezuelans are "around" in mid grades. 1962 a bit less so, but still around, 1959, 1967 and 1968 - MUCH tougher.[/QUOTE]

[Rrrlyons]

I would take a -2 Putrid grade on a 1968 Topps Venezuelan Byron Browne or a 1972 Topps Venezuelan Jose Cardenal just to have either one.

A 1972 Cardenal on eBay for $3

[Cliff Bowman]

A 1972 Cardenal on eBay for $3

That's a Winter League card. The card I'm referring to is the missing #87 in the second photo. Until I see proof of one I'm going to believe it doesn't exist.

[lowpopper]

As a very general rule of thumb, I get 5 to 10 times the topps
value for Venezuelans. OPC’s usually do 1 to 1.5x unless it is
a low pop situation. At that point you can name your price.

I know this does not exactly answer the original question. But
It is some raw data to consider.

- Greg