New finish for store model Louisville Slugger

[Runscott]

I posted the following a while back in the Game Used Universe forum, and got zero responses. 139 views and zero responses. Okay, I've finally learned - even questions about modern game-used items are a waste of time over there.

So here's my question. I'll add that I've since bought some spray-on poly and the can says that it's for 'indoor' only. If that's the case, is there a product that would work better for items that are likely to get rained on, etc.? I realize that this is not an area of expertise for us vintage guys, but Game-Used Universe is generally a waste of time for anything other than showing off your newest acquisition. So we're all that's left.

I have an early 70's store model Louisville Slugger (Powerized) that is solid, but was covered with marks, finish issues, etc. Since it's no more than a $25-40 bat, and I plan on hitting with it, I decided to practice my refinishing skills. I cleaned off marks with a magic eraser dipped in denatured alcohol, sanded lightly, then rubbed on two coats of natural Danish oil.

From searching other threads here regarding bat finish, I'm thinking a wipe-on polyurethane should be the next step. I want something strong, as I might hit with it - real baseballs, not the batting cage plastic ones.

[MrSeven]

Some sort of catalyzed polyurethane would be my hunch. Nothing commonly available is going to be more durable & abrasion resistant. If you're going for appearance, I suppose pre-catalyzed lacquer would be the best choice.

[icollectDCsports]

If you go go with poly, I think you'd want to use one with an oil base (not water) to be compatible with the Danish oil. And make sure the poly dries well (I'd think a week) before use. But are you sure you even need anything other than the oil already on there?

[Runscott]

If you go go with poly, I think you'd want to use one with an oil base (not water) to be compatible with the Danish oil. And make sure the poly dries well (I'd think a week) before use. But are you sure you even need anything other than the oil already on there?

Thanks guys. You make a good point. The reason I considered adding poly was that I was able to easily 'wipe' off ball-marks (and other marks) from two similar bats (I have 3) that had their original finish, using a Magic Eraser with denatured alcohol. By rubbing gently, the marks came off but it was not so abrasive as to go noticeably into the finish. In fact, the bats looked almost new when done.

For this bat I rubbed harder with the Magic Eraser, as it was very scuffed up - through the finish in places - the goal being to actually remove the finish so that the Danish oil would take and improve the appearance. To get it back to a state where future batting cage marks could be rubbed off, I felt like I needed to re-create a hard finish.

[Runscott]

Thanks for your advice. I finally got this done yesterday - several thin coats of outdoor poly. The only problem was that a previous owner had used a batting ring on it, which compressed the wood around the label. When I cleaned the bat, the lettering was flush with the wood surface and some of it came off; otherwise, it was a success:

[MrSeven]

Looks like it came out pretty nice. Nice to see some life brought back into a old bat.

[JeremyW]

Scott- The bat looks great. Now we just need a you-tube video of you in a batting cage putting it to use.

[Runscott]

Thanks guys. I haven't hit with a wooden bat since 1972, but this one will get some use soon.

One odd thing I just noticed - in addition to the stamped '5' in the butt, it also has a stamped 'R' with the same 'R' upside-down against it to the left (same axis in common). Looks like a cattle-brand.

[Leon]

Cool stuff, Scott. Let us know how BP goes.

[icollectDCsports]

Great looking bat. Looks much better with the new finish.