Best Way to Sell Single Signed Ruth?

[Leon]

Hey Guys and Girls
I am giving a little direction to a person who emailed me concerning a baseball that was found in his Dad's stuff as they are going through it. His dad is 85 and of very modest means so they want to try to get the most they can for it, of course. He has sent it to JSA and they have a full letter coming for it. His dad isn't sure where the ball came from except HIS dad was a car dealer back in the 20s-30s. They think it could have come from the Grandfather. The box is pretty nice. Is it worth getting another alphabet COA (I think for this auto they can be upwards of $300)? thanks for any help...

[MrSeven]

That's a clean looking Ruth. I'm no expert but for something like a single signed Babe Ruth baseball I don't see how getting a PSA letter for it could hurt.

Two LOAs probably will cause the bidding at auction to exceed the $300 to get it examined by someone like PSA.

[Bpm0014]

Can't hurt to get an LOA for that but certainly not needed. 100% authentic without question. But I can understand how some uneducated people would like an LOA for peace of mind. It's a $6000-$12000 baseball depending on the auction house.

[Sophiedog]

I think having the JSA letter is good enough. No need to spend more money. Whoever buys it will likely know its real and the one COA should give the buyer reasurance he's not buying a stamped or "made up" ball. It's a nice ball too and the box adds some value as well.

[mordecaibrown]

That box is not the original box for that ball though. Ball is an American League Reach baseball and box is for National League Spalding ball.

[Leon]

That box is not the original box for that ball though. Ball is an American League Reach baseball and box is for National League Spalding ball.

Thanks.
I don't know my balls that well :). Never thought I would say that. Anyway, my understanding is the ball was always in the box. If it isn't original to it, it is ok and is what it is. I don't think the owner wants to make any more or less of what it really is. Which looks to be a pretty nice ball.

[mordecaibrown]

I completely agree - both are nice items. Just something I noticed as an FYI.

Thanks.
I don't know my balls that well :). Never thought I would say that. Anyway, my understanding is the ball was always in the box. If it isn't original to it, it is ok and is what it is. I don't think the owner wants to make any more or less of what it really is. Which looks to be a pretty nice ball.

[CW]

If I were in your position, Leon, I would give them the phone numbers to Heritage, REA, and LOTG and recommend they call all 3 to discuss the terms and expectations for the ball. I would suggest they request the ball be placed in a "premier" auction for Heritage, or one of the main spring auctions if they get a better vibe from REA or LOTG.

Since you know the AH negotiating possibilites well, Leon, I would also give the seller tips on what they should request of the AH regarding seller's commission, catalog placement, cash advances if needed, etc.

Finally, while it's a beautiful Ruth ball, I would also point out to the seller that it might not realize a super high ending amount due to the fact that part of the small "b" and the "e" in Babe are rubbed off or faded.

[Bonk!]

Hi - seller here. I'd like to first start out by thanking Leon for his time and advice. I know as much about this stuff as my tractor, and Leon has been way more than generous.

I noticed the box thing as well, and when I asked my dad (whose memory is fading) he just said "that's what it has always been in." I'm definitely not trying to deceive anyone.

I also understand that this ball isn't in pristine condition, and the ultimate selling price will reflect that.

Leon did point me in the direction of several auction sites and provided great insight regarding the seller's premium (out!) and the buyer's premium (try to negotiate a piece), catalogue page size and location, etc.

Any other advice is certainly welcome - again, I don't know much about this stuff and I do need to maximize what I get for my dad.

Thanks again - Doug

[btcarfagno]

Love your dad's ball Doug. Never thought I would say that phrase either.

Babe Ruth signed baseballs are the ultimate example of supply and demand. The supply of authentic examples seems never ending. The man signed thousands of balls per year for the last 20+ years of his life. Demand is equally as great, and average or better examples (your ball included) have been going up in price recently along with most other vintage Ruth collectibles.

I did a search at the Heritage.com website. They have auctioned off almost 100 Babe Ruth single signed balls over the past 18 months. If I had to venture a guess, your ball would go for somewhere in the $7,000 ballpark give or take. I have already taken out the buyers premium from that number...it is important to realize that most auction houses show the number that the bidder actually takes out of his/her pocket to pay for the item, which includes a buyers premium of 15-20% usually. So, if the auction site says that a similar ball sold for $8,000, the actual hammer price would have been around $6,667. Then if there is a sellers premium of, say, 10%, that $6,667 becomes more like $6,000. So the auction house receives $8,000 and the seller gets $6,000. If you are able to work the percentages down at all it is to your benefit to do so, but the auction house will still take a healthy cut of whatever the winning bidder actually pays for the item.

You may want to offer the piece on the BST here on net54. The likely buyer pay price for the ball at an auction house would be $8,000-8,500. Your take home would be (depending on your negotiating skills) $6,000-6,700. Thus, if you offer the ball here on net54 and take anywhere north of $7,000 you are likely making a better decision than the auction route.

Of course, if two bidders really want this particular ball, it could go to $10,000 or a bit more at auction. Then again, if only one person is willing to go to $6,000, then you get screwed. Understand, however, that Ruth signed baseballs are prevalent, and thus the market for them is somewhat stable and predictable. It isn't like two bidders will feel as though their next opportunity to get one at auction will be several years from now. There will likely be a similar one available within the next few weeks at one auction or another.

Tom C

[Bonk!]

Thanks Tom - definitely worth thinking about.

[Bonk!]

Thanks everyone - this is very helpful stuff.

[Bonk!]

With Leon's help I have secured an offer in the range discussed above. It is certainly a fair offer which I will accept on Friday unless anyone else is interested. If so, please PM me, as I would prefer to keep this reasonably confidential.

If this violates this site's rules I'm sorry, and will pull this message asap.

[Leon]

With Leon's help I have secured an offer in the range discussed above. It is certainly a fair offer which I will accept on Friday unless anyone else is interested. If so, please PM me, as I would prefer to keep this reasonably confidential.

If this violates this site's rules I'm sorry, and will pull this message asap.

It's all good....we have rules but there is also real life. Good luck with the sale!!

[btcarfagno]

I think that the ball at the below link is fairly similar to yours. It isn't quite as bold but it also doesn't have the fading spots that yours does. This ball sold just a few months ago for $8,000. Buyer paid $9,600 with buyers premium, and if seller was able to get a 10% sellers commission, ended up with $7,200 in pocket. Yours has the added bonus of being an Official American League ball. So anything in that ballpark, but hopefully north of $7,000, would be a fine private sale offer I would think.

https://sports.ha.com/itm/baseball/1930-s-babe-ruth-single-signed-baseball/a/7190-80938.s?ic4=GalleryView-Thumbnail-071515

Hope it turned out well for your needs.

Tom C

[2dueces]

Nice Piece. Congrats!

[Bonk!]

Thanks for all your help and input. I have an out-of-state buyer, and would appreciate any advice on the transaction. I've done a Bill of Sale that says he will pay me via Paypal and that I have produced everything he needs to be assured of the ball's condition. As soon as I receive the funds I will send the ball via overnight delivery. I will also send him the JSA authentication as soon as I receive it. I've told him I will keep the funds in my Paypal account until I receive confirmation of delivery. Am I overlooking anything?

[CW]

Be absolutely certain to get insurance and ALSO signature confirmation so they have to sign for the package. I would also be hesitant to ship overseas since this is a one time deal where you don't want any headaches.

I would also recommend doing the opposite of keeping the funds in your paypal account. I would withdraw the funds to your bank account, and ONLY ship the ball once the funds are confirmed to be in your bank account.

Others may chime in, but I'm pretty sure those are two pieces of good advice. :)

[Bonk!]

He's in New Jersey, so that's only kind of overseas. :)

I'll think about the Paypal thing - I wanted to give him some assurance that I am not scamming him.

[bnorth]

He's in New Jersey, so that's only kind of overseas. :)

I'll think about the Paypal thing - I wanted to give him some assurance that I am not scamming him.

Depending on the distance(could also fly) you could also exchange it in person for cash at a police station.

How did you get a JSA LOA if you have the ball and do not have the LOA in hand?

[Bonk!]

JSA didn't affix a stamp to the ball. They gave me the ball back and are expediting the LoA. That's an interesting idea about meeting him. I'm in Boston and he's in NJ. If he'd meet me in CT that would work.

[MrSeven]

Flying might not actually be that bad of an idea. Boston to Newark can be had for under $100 round-trip.

[Exhibitman]

I would NOT use paypal for that large of a deal. Too many chances for the buyer to mess with you and too many horror stories. If I am fortunate enough to get a deal like this one as a seller I insist on a wire transfer, cash or cleared funds via check or money order before I ship. Alternatively, I would suggest meeting in a neutral place, like a bank, and doing a cash deal once the JSA LOA is in hand and you can straight up trade it. Or using an intermediary (such as an attorney) or escrow to handle the exchange.

[Bonk!]

Everything worked out fine. I have the cash and he has a ball and a Bill of Sale. JSA is expediting the Letter of Authenticity so I will have this wrapped up shortly. Thanks for all who provided guidance - my dad is pleasantly surprised with the outcome.

[bnorth]

Everything worked out fine. I have the cash and he has a ball and a Bill of Sale. JSA is expediting the Letter of Authenticity so I will have this wrapped up shortly. Thanks for all who provided guidance - my dad is pleasantly surprised with the outcome.

Awesome, glad to hear it went smoothly for you.