Vintage Common lot: Best way to move?

[Filthy]

I'm looking for opinions/suggestions/expertise on this particular lot of 1956 Topps cards. I'm pretty green when it comes to dealing it vintage, and just want to ensure I don't get burned. So, just to clarify..this isn't a for sale thread, nor solicitation of these cards..but I'd really like opinions on what a real word value of this lot, in the current market is.

I typically hit up cards shows every few months, and find a dealer to thin out/dump some of my collection. The deal is typically in their favor obviously, because I'm selling in bulk but I'm comfortable doing so, because I know exactly what the market is on the "modern" stuff I'm selling/trading. Vintage...not so much. These are all duplicates from a family members collection, so I'm looking to sell the lot, to get funds to finish another set.

So, here's the info. 1956 Topps (100 Cards) All different, except for 2 or 3 doubles. They are all in VERY GOOD condition. Once again...I'm not familiar in any way with grading, but these cards have been in a box in an attic for 34 years, and haven't seen the light of day, since the early 80s. I've seen tons and tons of 56' Topps cards for sale over the years, and I'm pretty confident that these are in much better condition than most anything/everything I see non graded for sale at shows.

If looking to sell all of them together as a lot. Should I expect $2-$5 a card? $5-$7 a card? $7 -$10 per card? Once again, I understand that If I'm selling a lot of 100 cards, that are all commons..there needs to be an incentive/discount of sorts to the buyer..but just want to make sure that I don't sell to the first guy that offers, and then see the lot sold/passed around 3or 4 times within the next hour to different tables, at a profit every time.

I have included a few pics, to demonstrate overall condition. They are all in tremendous shape, with NO creases, or bends of any kind. There might be a few soft corners here or there, but Surface/Color/Centering is AWESOME on all of them. NO excuses to be made.

I'm open to any and all opinions and/or comments.




http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Filthy09/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsdb7umj06.jpeg (http://s452.photobucket.com/user/Filthy09/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsdb7umj06.jpeg.html)



http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Filthy09/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsgc1pw9co.jpeg (http://s452.photobucket.com/user/Filthy09/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsgc1pw9co.jpeg.html)



http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq241/Filthy09/image_zpsc399chrq.jpeg (http://s452.photobucket.com/user/Filthy09/media/image_zpsc399chrq.jpeg.html)

[Bruinsfan94]

Those are a really nice grouping of cards. My gut would say 4-6$ a card if sold in a lot of that size.

[irv]

Being fairly new to all this too, I would suggest checking out E-Bay and PSA listings to see what excellent, nr-mt cards (which your cards look like to me) go for?

I can tell you one thing, the price difference between number 5-6 graded cards and 8-9, and especially 10 graded cards is huge so do your homework first before giving them away.

Also, don't forget a lot of reprints exist which sell way cheaper than originals so be careful of that too.

Here is an e-bay link to help you get started but don't use this as your only avenue.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=&rmvSB=true&_fln=1&_sop=1&Era=Post%252DWWII%2520%25281942%252D1980%2529&LH_Auction=1&_ssov=1&_dcat=213&Original%252FReprint=Original%7C%21&_osacat=213&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l2632.R2.TR11.TRC1.A0.H0.X19 56+Topps+ba.TRS0&_nkw=1956+topps+baseball+cards&_sacat=212

[swarmee]

Well, looking up the three with names visible on COMC, there are cards in similar conditions between $2-$4 per player. If you can sell the whole batch at $4 a card, you're doing great. If your goal is to convert them in to other vintage cards (or even modern cards), you could mail this group into COMC, and for $25 (25 cents per card, minimum 100), they'll scan, add them to your account, let you price them, and then mail them out when someone buys them. Then you can use that store credit to buy exactly the cards you're looking for, and have them mailed back to you in one shipment.
As always, Yankees and high-numbered cards do better than common prices.

[TheNightmanCometh]

Money may be an issue for the OP, but wouldn't it be wise, considering the condition of the cards, to send a lot of them to PSA for grading? If they looked EX I could understand not bothering, but those look in much better shape. Sure, PSA will charge an arm and a leg, but the value between ungraded and graded is so vast.

[Filthy]

Money may be an issue for the OP, but wouldn't it be wise, considering the condition of the cards, to send a lot of them to PSA for grading? If they looked EX I could understand not bothering, but those look in much better shape. Sure, PSA will charge an arm and a leg, but the value between ungraded and graded is so vast.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions so far. I'm not opposed to having some of them graded, but since I'm not too familiar with vintage/graded stuff I didn't know what the breaking point was between spending the money to have them graded vs. not. What does it even cost to grade a card? I plan on sending in the Mantle, Aaron, Williams, Clemente, and Koufax cards that were in this collection....but didn't know it was worth it to send in commons. But that's why I came here to post...to get everyone's opinion on what my best move would be.

[TheNightmanCometh]

http://www.psacard.com/fees/

Here's the information you need. I would imagine that if they're as nice as the pics you showed of the other cards you'd be spending $40 per card. BTW, I think I speak for everyone here when I say we'd love to see pics of the Mantle, Aaron, Williams, Clemente, and Koufax cards. :-)

[moeson]

Really nice cards but I think probably at $18 submission level, or as low as $7 in bulk for the commons. I wish you the best of luck.

[swarmee]

If you join the PSA Collector's Club ($189/year with 15 "free" grades), you can grade in bulk on the monthly submission with prices around $6/card plus return shipping. Then you could send in the stars on the 15 "free" sub and send in at least 25/50 on a bulk submission.

I just sent in 135 on this month's special; should have mailed them before New Years for $5.50 each. ;-)

http://www.psacard.com/SMRPriceGuide/SetDetail.aspx?SMRSetID=1152

To me, they'd need to guarantee to be NM and even better for me to send in commons for this set. At PSA 8 (NM-MT, basically two corner dings and within 65/35 centering), you'd really make out best.

[irv]

http://www.psacard.com/fees/

Here's the information you need. I would imagine that if they're as nice as the pics you showed of the other cards you'd be spending $40 per card. BTW, I think I speak for everyone here when I say we'd love to see pics of the Mantle, Aaron, Williams, Clemente, and Koufax cards. :-)

I agree. :)

[toledo_mudhen]

From what I can see in your photos - most would top out at PSA 6 - Did see some OC and MC - so those would take a hit.

PSA SMR shows the following on the common cards

----------------------------------------5 EX 6 EXMT 7 NMT
Commons 1 - 100------------------------10 15 26
Commons 101-180, 261 - 340-------------10 15 26
Commons 181 - 260----------------------10 17 32
Team Cards: Name Centered--------------15 22 45
Team Cards: Name at Left----------------20 32 65
Team Cards: Dated---------------------- 35 55 85

If you could manage to hit a few 7s - then you win
If the majority come back as 5's then you lose as you will probably end up having around $10 each in grading fees

One final note - I personally prefer SGC Slabs for my collection - I think they grade more consistent and the look is awesome. However the PSA Snobs are not going to want to give SMR value for SGC Slabs. (too much Kool-Aid) So if you are doing this specifically to flip em - then make sure you go to PSA

Hope this helps

[bbcard1]

The cards are nice and desirable, but I can't imagine PSA being a good route to go on those. I didn't see anything that would get an eye popping grade, but I am often wrong.