If you were just starting to buy T206 [Archive]

ullmandds

01-18-2016, 06:32 PM

personally...i'd rethink my strategy! just kidding...kinda!

the smart play...in my mind is to target the bigger name hof'ers as they will atleast hold their value over the long term...maybe even go up...as opposed to common players which are more boring...and more likely to decrease in value over time.

Or if you have more coin to spend...go after the hof'ers with rare(r) backs.

you may find if you ever complete the hof'er set...you have no interest in the commons and your hof'ers will be much quicker and easier to sell!

just the opinion of an anti t206er.

Orioles1954

01-18-2016, 07:09 PM

I don't see the point in starting a set that can never be completed. I would much rather pursue a set like the E95 Philadelphia Caramels which can be completed at far less expense.

Danny Smith

01-18-2016, 07:16 PM

Start with the hall of famers. I saved a ton of money as they have generally continued to rise in value. Makes the end kinda boring going after commons but that strategy was the best advice I ever received regarding this set.

mattsey9

01-18-2016, 07:35 PM

I don't see the point in starting a set that can never be completed. I would much rather pursue a set like the E95 Philadelphia Caramels which can be completed at far less expense.

Out of curiosity, what would you guess a lesser grade E95 set would cost to assemble.? I'm a set collector, and the inability to reasonably complete T206 does somewhat bother me.

Orioles1954

01-18-2016, 07:55 PM

Off the top of my head my guess would be the $5000-7000 range.

James

mechanicalman

01-18-2016, 08:04 PM

Out of curiosity, what would you guess a lesser grade E95 set would cost to assemble.? I'm a set collector, and the inability to reasonably complete T206 does somewhat bother me.

It all depends on how low grade you buy the Cobb and Wagner, and to lesser extent, the Matty and Plank. But I've found commons in a decent 3 go for around $100 or less while lesser HoFs like Bender, Chance et. al. go around 200-300 in a nicer 3.

vintagebaseballcardguy

01-18-2016, 08:20 PM

MVSNYC

01-18-2016, 08:22 PM

Robert- the beauty of the T206 set, is that it can be collected so many different ways. YOU make up your own rules. HOFers, Southern Leaguers, Rare Backs, Errors, Misprints, high grade, low grade, etc, etc.

I think starting with HOFers, as was mentioned above is solid advice. I personally am a rare back collector, which always keeps things fun and interesting.

Good luck.

Orioles1954

01-18-2016, 08:48 PM

James,

I have thought about the completion aspect some. I personally wouldn't take it on to complete it in the overall sense. There are just so many ways to collect it. For example , one might set out to collect Polar Bear backs or some other back. You do make a fair point though. There are a few (especially the big 4) that I would never be able to obtain. I am not terribly familiar with e95. I have looked it up since your post....good looking cards and selection. Is yours a higher or lower grade set?

Having been mostly a postwar collector, T206 is the one prewar set of its era I keep hearing and reading about. Perhaps I will dig a bit deeper....

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I have collected multiple sets, but no longer actively collect cards and have sold off my collection. However, I still enjoy studying and learning about cards. I should, I'm employed by a major auction house :) Personally, I just think there is so much more to pre-war cards than T206. If I ever get back into the ballgame again, I will definitely pursue T212 Obak cards. Hands down, the most attractive cards IMHO. May I direct you to oldcardboard.com?
Their website is an absolute treasure trove of images and information.

Jewish-collector

01-18-2016, 09:12 PM

I'm sure there will be a T206 Wagner in Robert Edward or Heritge Spring auction. If you have the money for it, and if you are deciding if you should bid, do what Tom Cruise said in the movie...

He said, "Sometimes you gotta say WTF"

pokerplyr80

01-19-2016, 01:34 AM

I am just starting to collect t206 but am not trying to build a set. Just going for Cobbs. The guys who said go for the HOFers first make a good point. Easier to cash out if you decide not to complete it. I wish I had done that with the 52 Topps set I was working on as I lost some money on the commons.

vintagebaseballcardguy

01-19-2016, 06:22 AM

I have collected multiple sets, but no longer actively collect cards and have sold off my collection. However, I still enjoy studying and learning about cards. I should, I'm employed by a major auction house :) Personally, I just think there is so much more to pre-war cards than T206. If I ever get back into the ballgame again, I will definitely pursue T212 Obak cards. Hands down, the most attractive cards IMHO. May I direct you to oldcardboard.com?
Their website is an absolute treasure trove of images and information.

Thanks, James. I had forgotten that site. I will give it a look.
Woo-Pig!

Orioles1954

01-19-2016, 07:35 AM

Thanks, James. I had forgotten that site. I will give it a look.
Woo-Pig!

WPS Razorback!

Joshchisox08

01-19-2016, 07:37 AM

Thanks, James. I had forgotten that site. I will give it a look.
Woo-Pig!

Rob it also depends on your wallet as well. If you have the money going for the HOF players/cards is the wise thing to do.

I started collecting with ZERO agenda. I just liked the cards and wanted some. Then it turned into I want to get all the White Sox players. Then I bought the book T206 The Players and Their Stories, I wanted all of the "Bad Boys" then all of the "Overlooked by Cooperstown", then it turned into just any card that caught my eye. The great thing about this set is you can see cards but you'll never remember them all. Some cards you didn't like at first you can wind up loving. A card that has a certain great eye popping color can do it even if the cards design isn't the greatest.

Speaking from a person who's spending isn't that much that's how my approach has been. The HOF players I do have I've spent under $100 on every single one, they aren't in the greatest condition but I'm willing to sacrifice a little just to own a HOF card.

Just another way of looking at it.

vintagebaseballcardguy

01-19-2016, 08:15 AM

Rob it also depends on your wallet as well. If you have the money going for the HOF players/cards is the wise thing to do.

I started collecting with ZERO agenda. I just liked the cards and wanted some. Then it turned into I want to get all the White Sox players. Then I bought the book T206 The Players and Their Stories, I wanted all of the "Bad Boys" then all of the "Overlooked by Cooperstown", then it turned into just any card that caught my eye. The great thing about this set is you can see cards but you'll never remember them all. Some cards you didn't like at first you can wind up loving. A card that has a certain great eye popping color can do it even if the cards design isn't the greatest.

Speaking from a person who's spending isn't that much that's how my approach has been. The HOF players I do have I've spent under $100 on every single one, they aren't in the greatest condition but I'm willing to sacrifice a little just to own a HOF card.

Just another way of looking at it.
Josh, that sounds a lot like me. I know I want to do something prewar, and the T206s have such enormous variety they just seemed like they would be fun to collect. I don't really feel I have preconceived goal going in, I just want to buy a few. I might collect cards with just one particular back for a while. Also like you, and unlike my postwar collecting, I am willing to give in on condition to be able to afford what I like. You have been putting together a very nice collection. I might also check out the e95 James mentioned, but I like what I see from T206 a lot and feel no pressure to "complete" anything in the classic sense. I don't have a huge budget, so I will take it slow either way.

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Orioles1954

01-19-2016, 08:27 AM

Before sinking significant money into a project, I would advise to research as many sets or types of collecting before starting.

vintagebaseballcardguy

01-19-2016, 08:40 AM

Before sinking significant money into a project, I would advise to research as many sets or types of collecting before starting.
I agree, James. I am in no hurry. Thanks. E95 will be one such set I will study...along with further T206 study. I will also check out the site you mentioned earlier.

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BleedinBlue

01-19-2016, 09:04 AM

One key aspect of the T206 set is the availability of the cards. Given an unlimited budget you can buy 518 of the cards RIGHT NOW on eBay. Granted, many are simply over priced. There are also a number of great deals on the BST board. Finding the card you can want at a reasonable price is fairly easy if you are patient and not focusing on extremely high end cards. I'm at MN 510 now and the only thing keepin me from getting to 518 is budget. I've got some big HOFers to go. But they are always out there for sale. And generally at a reasonable price. I just need to build up the reserves a bit after some bigger purchases last year. Then I will make my next move to 511. It's gotta be a missing Cy for #511, doesn't it?

Touch'EmAll

01-19-2016, 09:31 AM

I am not a set collector, but several years ago I did finish "my" T206 set - all major HOF'ers in either 5 or 6 grade. Very happy with my choices. I haven't bought a T206 in couple years now, but get a big smile looking over the dozen or so cards I do have - no way selling anytime soon. T206's are so classic you just can't go wrong over the long haul with nice copies. Always consider centering.

Prince Hal

01-19-2016, 09:37 AM

I completed my Highlanders T206 set a while ago and have only been buying tougher backs until recently. I have now started collecting the HOF portraits and really enjoying the hunt. I go for the SGC 40/30 type cards which to me can have great eye appeal despite some technical flaws. These cards are not too hard to find and affordable (except for the Wagner and Plank of course) so I have really focused on centering and image. The Walter Johnson card is the best looking card in the set in my opinion. I saw it first on display at the Baseball HOF and that really got me into collecting the portraits. Anyway, this is one of the million or so ways to collect this great set!

Cozumeleno

01-19-2016, 09:49 AM

...would you make it a point to target HOFers or might you accumulate as many of one back type as possible, or some other strategy? Just curious, as there are so many approaches.

The best advice I can give you is to look for value - whether the card is a common or not. I started by collecting low-grade commons just because I liked the look/feel of the cards and wanted as many as I could get. That method worked fine for me but, I also passed on deals for HOFers and non-commons in the process.

If I could do it over again, I wouldn't just target commons early on - I'd be looking for cards that were the best value. If you see a good price on a HOFer or rare variation and you can afford it, pick it up. It will save you the hassle of waiting for another one to pop up down the line.

I also wouldn't worry about collecting a bunch and then giving up before you get to 518 or 520 (or whatever your goal is). If you decide midway that you don't want to pursue the set, T206s move very well. I do think it's good to put some real thought into what you want to do and not leap into anything. But as long as you paid market prices for them, you shouldn't have to worry about unloading them for similar amounts. People buy and sell them all the time.

Good luck -

Bpm0014

01-19-2016, 10:03 AM

Personally, I just think there is so much more to pre-war cards than T206. If I ever get back into the ballgame again, I will definitely pursue T212 Obak cards. Hands down, the most attractive cards IMHO.

Couldn't agree more! It will be my next project....

bbcard1

01-19-2016, 10:20 AM

You could always do team sets or back runs. I finished a low grade but presentable set with a couple of rare backs in the $15K range, but I had a head start because I'd picked them up without any intention of doing a set for a long time then one day I looked at it and said, Hey, you've got about 200 of them, why not go for it. Finished the 520 set a while ago. Might someday make a play for a Plank if the right one in the right price range comes up. I am missing the Broadleaf from a Davidson back run but have not been able to locate one.

Leon

01-20-2016, 08:04 PM

Whatever you do, take your time. It's a marathon not a sprint. And have fun on the journey too!!

Sean

01-20-2016, 11:11 PM

The best advice I can give you is to look for value - whether the card is a common or not. I started by collecting low-grade commons just because I liked the look/feel of the cards and wanted as many as I could get. That method worked fine for me but, I also passed on deals for HOFers and non-commons in the process.

If I could do it over again, I wouldn't just target commons early on - I'd be looking for cards that were the best value. If you see a good price on a HOFer or rare variation and you can afford it, pick it up. It will save you the hassle of waiting for another one to pop up down the line.

I also wouldn't worry about collecting a bunch and then giving up before you get to 518 or 520 (or whatever your goal is). If you decide midway that you don't want to pursue the set, T206s move very well. I do think it's good to put some real thought into what you want to do and not leap into anything. But as long as you paid market prices for them, you shouldn't have to worry about unloading them for similar amounts. People buy and sell them all the time.

Good luck -

This thread contains a lot of good advice, but I agree with this post in particular.

I've told this story many times,but here goes: Less than a year after I started collecting T206s I had a chance for a Plank, PSA 3. I ended up the underbidder; it sold for around $12K. I could have made another bid, but I decided that I could get so many cards that I needed with that money.

What a mistake. :eek: .Those commons would always be available, but a Plank is very hard to come by. And now, 13 years later, those commons are still cheap, but that Plank has increased 500% or more.

So if you have a chance for something special, something you really want, get it. The rest of the set can wait.

Good luck.

vintagebaseballcardguy

01-21-2016, 05:17 AM

Thanks for all the feedback everyone. You have given me a lot to think about as I study.

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vintagebaseballcardguy

01-31-2016, 11:54 AM

Rob it also depends on your wallet as well. If you have the money going for the HOF players/cards is the wise thing to do.

I started collecting with ZERO agenda. I just liked the cards and wanted some. Then it turned into I want to get all the White Sox players. Then I bought the book T206 The Players and Their Stories, I wanted all of the "Bad Boys" then all of the "Overlooked by Cooperstown", then it turned into just any card that caught my eye. The great thing about this set is you can see cards but you'll never remember them all. Some cards you didn't like at first you can wind up loving. A card that has a certain great eye popping color can do it even if the cards design isn't the greatest.

Speaking from a person who's spending isn't that much that's how my approach has been. The HOF players I do have I've spent under $100 on every single one, they aren't in the greatest condition but I'm willing to sacrifice a little just to own a HOF card.

Just another way of looking at it.
Josh, I purchased a copy of The T206 Collection : The Players and Their Stories. I am working my way through it and finding it very enjoyable. It really helps tie a few things together for me and gives me some ideas about how I might want to approach T206. Thanks for mentioning it. I had seen it but might not have bought it had you not pointed it out.

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egbeachley

01-31-2016, 12:24 PM

Buy 3 cards.

1) A raw beater for under $15 that you can touch and not worry about causing more damage.

2) A raw one in close to NRMT condition including nice corners but with a major flaw like a pinhole or crease to keep the cost down. Know what a fresh card looks like and again, you can't cause much damage.

3) A mid-range graded card.

Buy the first 2 from the BST to ensure they are real. Once you have them in hand you'll better know how you want to collect the set.

vintagebaseballcardguy

01-31-2016, 01:28 PM

majordanby

01-31-2016, 08:37 PM

just reiterating what most have said here.

There are a lot of T206s on the market. So, be patient and strike on good value. It's a big set and some want to complete it as soon as possible. It's tempting because they are always up for auction or available for sale on the BST. But, take your time, get a feel of what the current prices are, and strike when you can.

when i was actively collecting T206s, I targeted lower graded cards with high eye appeal. Stains, wax, pin holes and the like bring the grade down, but the card is otherwise stunning. I was able to get far - spent way less for cards that I was very happy with in terms of their aesthetics.

Joshchisox08

02-01-2016, 05:22 AM

Josh, I purchased a copy of The T206 Collection : The Players and Their Stories. I am working my way through it and finding it very enjoyable. It really helps tie a few things together for me and gives me some ideas about how I might want to approach T206. Thanks for mentioning it. I had seen it but might not have bought it had you not pointed it out.

Great! The book offers a small incite on the players. It usually leads to wanting to know more and additional research! It is a very good book to have and very affordable as well!

Good luck hunting Rob!

Who'd you get for your first pick up ?

vintagebaseballcardguy

02-01-2016, 05:30 AM

Great! The book offers a small incite on the players. It usually leads to wanting to know more and additional research! It is a very good book to have and very affordable as well!

Good luck hunting Rob!

Who'd you get for your first pick up ?
I agree...I bought a Bescher (hands in air) in low grade condition.

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