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jkray25
01-10-2016, 04:25 PM
Eyeing a 55 Topps for $75, wondering if it's worth it. Shows some wear on the bottom, back is good.

Not graded.

Don't have a pic, should've taken one when I was at the antique store. Debating on going back to get it.

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jhowie
01-10-2016, 07:20 PM
If it were me and I was sure it was authentic, and it only had a little wear on the bottom, then I would buy it for that price.

jkray25
01-10-2016, 07:39 PM
I plan on going back on Wed, my next day off, if not to just look for other odds and ends.

I'll take some pics.

Any tells as far as authenticity goes?

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rsdill2
01-11-2016, 05:52 AM
$75 is a reasonable price to pay for a crease free '55 Aaron that presents well. Not a huge bargain but not a ripoff either.-

Bring a '55 common with you. Check that the measurements are exactly the same. Feel the cardstock and gloss. Most reprints are pretty obvious if you're used to handling originals. Make sure the printing method matches. The picture should be composed of tiny dots and graphics/borders should be solid color.

jkray25
01-11-2016, 06:28 AM
Thanks so much, no commons to compare with but I'll give it my best. These antique store prices aren't firm either so maybe I can snag it for 50

On another note it's not graded. I've done a bit of research on grading. Does anyone have a recommendation as far as easiest ,cheapest etc. SGC, PSA? 3RD party?

Thanks!

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rsdill2
01-11-2016, 09:49 AM
Thanks so much, no commons to compare with but I'll give it my best. These antique store prices aren't firm either so maybe I can snag it for 50

On another note it's not graded. I've done a bit of research on grading. Does anyone have a recommendation as far as easiest ,cheapest etc. SGC, PSA? 3RD party?

Thanks!

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You'll find as many opinions on grading as there are people who chime in. SGC and PSA are generally considered the best if you elect to grade it but IMO, unless you're darn certain its NM or better and you're trying to flip it for a profit, grading probably isn't worth your time or $.

jkray25
01-11-2016, 09:56 AM
It's certainly not NM or better, not with the wear I saw on the bottom.

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jkray25
01-13-2016, 02:01 PM
Here's the best I could manage.

Thoughts, it's listed at 75

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160113/7ad5626dc287612f75ed508196c70997.jpg

rsdill2
01-13-2016, 03:38 PM
Definitely not a 6 or 7 so I don't think it's worth grading. A lot of people avoid those screw down holders like the plague. It seems they're the preferred storage method for fake cards and can also cause compression damage to cards if the screws are over tourqued. I'd definitely remove it from the screw holder and inspect before purchasing it.

If trying to flip it is your goal, I don't see much opportunity to sell it for much more than $75. If you're just wanting a '55 Aaron to add to your collection it's a reasonable price to pay assuming it's authentic.

jkray25
01-13-2016, 04:03 PM
Is that a general rule of thumb? If it's not gonna be a 6 or higher don't grade?

I realize with t206 and others like a drum back low grade doesn't matter but for Topps is that how it goes?

Thanks for the info!

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rsdill2
01-13-2016, 04:15 PM
Depends. For most commons, it's really not worth your time or $ to grade unless you think they'll be an 8. Stars or Mantle maybe a little less. This Aaron looks like a 4 to me but might be a 3 or might be a 5. If it's a 4, recent ebay sales show $74-$140. After grading fees and ebay fees it just doesn't make sense to me to get it graded.

jkray25
01-13-2016, 04:42 PM
Thanks, this type of insight is the exact reason I joined. Can't beat personal experience.

Thanks again!

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jkray25
01-13-2016, 04:43 PM
BTW I passed on this Aaron

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irv
01-13-2016, 07:03 PM
Is that a general rule of thumb? If it's not gonna be a 6 or higher don't grade?

I realize with t206 and others like a drum back low grade doesn't matter but for Topps is that how it goes?

Thanks for the info!

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